Right door and dash speaker not working. PLEASE HELP

[XXSNOTRODXX]

Got a 16 ram regular cab

 

[dwhutch]

When you measured voltage was it across the speaker wires or each wire to ground? AC or DC? Should read AC across the speaker leads when radio is playing and Should go up and down with volume. Have you pulled the radio and looked to see if the wiring is ok on the back and checked to make sure th plug is fully seated?

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[XXSNOTRODXX]

of the norm.

 

[Fastbee]

AC voltage to the speaker is not related to CANBUS...its how speakers have always worked. Checking DC voltage to ground on a speaker is not old school, its wrong. If you hooked a known good speaker up to it and still got nothing my guess is the channels are blown. You'll probably need a new radio unless there is an amp somewhere that is blown.

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

amps anywhere.

 

[dwhutch]

Did you splice the speaker wires or was it like that when you opened it up. If someone had an amp in there and pulled it before selling or trading you may find spliced wires behind the radio and something may be loose, dosen't explain DC voltage to ground though. I'm not a solid state amp tech but I'm not sure you should see any DC on the output unless output transistors are shorted. You may be looking for a new radio or a good tech to fix that one. A test light doesn't care if it sees ac or dc unless it is an LED so if it's a plain bulb it would be normal to dance to the music.

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

Did you splice the speaker wires or was it like that when you opened it up. If someone had an amp in there and pulled it before selling or trading you may find spliced wires behind the radio and something may be loose, dosen't explain DC voltage to ground though. I'm not a solid state amp tech but I'm not sure you should see any DC on the output unless output transistors are shorted. You may be looking for a new radio or a good tech to fix that one. A test light doesn't care if it sees ac or dc unless it is an LED so if it's a plain bulb it would be normal to dance to the music.

got a chance to pull things apart today and do some more diagnosing. No system was ever installed in the truck. The previous owner looks to have had a set of upgraded door speakers installed and either he himself did it or some professional did a shoddy job on the install. They did atleast solder the splice but it would have been a lot cleaner had they used the correct harness adapter. The radio had no signs of ever having been removed, no finger prints on the dust on anything inside the dash even. I probed for ac as was suggested On the backside of the radio and wasn’t getting any readings, tried probing known working speaker outputs And again.... no readings. I tried racing the volume and lowering it and it still had no readings. I switched back to dc which is what I am use to and the known working outputs also read 6v but I could get them to fluctuate when grounding on the opposite probe per negative/positive output. Something is goofy with this system in how it outputs signal ‍. Anyways, I was able to tap in to all the outputs at the back of the head unit and hook up to a known good speaker and the speaker would output audio on every one accept the one that feeds the drivers front of the truck ( green with purple+ and green with yellow- ). I then ran jumper wires from the front left harness wires to a known good output channel (front left) and I was able to get audio on the front right. So it looks like unfortunately the front right channel is blown. I checked the connected and the pins were in good shape and seated correctly. My guess judging by how “clean” of an install the previous owner did on the door speakers is that they touched the wires together during install and blew the front right channel on the radio.

 

[misfit77]

When I was installing aftermarket speakers I did the mistake trying to turn on the radio when the speakers were disconnected.

sort of acts like a computer when you turn something on and it's disconnected it won't recognize it and won't use it.

I think I had to do some kind of radio reset or disconnect the battery to get the speakers to come back on

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[buddy guy]

When I was installing aftermarket speakers I did the mistake trying to turn on the radio when the speakers were disconnected.

sort of acts like a computer when you turn something on and it's disconnected it won't recognize it and won't use it.

I think I had to do some kind of radio reset or disconnect the battery to get the speakers to come back on

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Basically. Its not like an old style system where you can have power on when you add a speaker. (Not just turn on the power...but when power is already on too). You have to have the key off and radio powered down for a few minutes so its back at the default screen where it says "accept" in the case of my RA3 radio. It takes a few minutes. When I changed my speakers out i tried turning the key off removing it then putting in and turning on again probably within 1 minute. Wasnt powered down yet.

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[Fastbee]

Strange , I’ve always been able to run a test light to ground and probe the positive output and get the light to blink with the output frequency levels of the audio. And none of the systems I have worked on have been 6v output in both negative and positive let alone without any fluctuation in voltage. I’ve installed a few dozen radios in my time and never had issues like this or had these kinds of issues with trouble shooting. It’s a basic system in a regular cab and I am not finding any amps anywhere.

Thats because the test light doesn't care about what kind of voltage is present. DC current on a speaker would cause the cone to only move one way, they dont work like that, never have. If you don't believe me hook a 9V battery to a speaker, the cone will move in OR out and stay there until you unhook the battery. If you reverse the polarity it will go the opposite direction. You can almost always measure some level of DC on speaker lines, the type if instrument you use for measurement has an impact on what you see. The proper way to see audio signals to a speaker is an oscilloscope. Cheap multimeters and test lights only tell you some form of something is there.

 

[canadiankodiak700]

These trucks use load sensing radio, it needs to see the speaker ohm load on the channel in order to activate that channel. If the radio is on, but no speaker connected, it you try to test it by disconnecting the speaker and hooking your meter, you will get a false/ no reading. The head unit shuts down the channel to protect itself.

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[XXSNOTRODXX]

These trucks use load sensing radio, it needs to see the speaker ohm load on the channel in order to activate that channel. If the radio is on, but no speaker connected, it you try to test it by disconnecting the speaker and hooking your meter, you will get a false/ no reading. The head unit shuts down the channel to protect itself.

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I’ve checked it with the speaker connected. I have also verified that the speaker ohms out to rates specs. I was also able to piggy back the passenger harness off of the drivers harness and get the entire passenger sound to play audio which leads me to believe the passenger front channel is blown.

 

[dwhutch]

I just reread your first post and you said the dash speaker appeared to be factory and connected. If so and its not blown then that channel has not been operating with out a load. Front dash and door speakers are wired together in parallel to the same channel unless I'm mistaken.

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[XXSNOTRODXX]

I just reread your first post and you said the dash speaker appeared to be factory and connected. If so and its not blown then that channel has not been operating with out a load. Front dash and door speakers are wired together in parallel to the same channel unless I'm mistaken.

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Correct, the dash speaker was connected and it appears to be in parallel with the door speakers (same color coding). All I know is that it wouldn’t work .... and that if I piggy backed the front right harness off of the front left harness.... the front right side would play just fine off of that channel. Which lead time to the conclusion that the right front channel on the head unit must not be working ‍

 

[dwhutch]

Yea, I believe you need a radio. Should be used ones around with a lot of people upgrading to aftermarket or factory 8.4. I was looking on car-part.com for an 8.4 and saw a lot of RA2 radios aroung $200 to $250.

 

[dwhutch]

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=17770&share_type=t&link_source=app

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