If I was getting hot idle tick, I would definitely be shopping for a new oil. And as it so happens I have the starts of a hot idle tick on redline 10w30, so I am going back to hemi honey 5w30 redline. There is a scientific reason for this, the base oils are different. The hths on 5w30 is 2 points higher then 10w30, so in layman's terms the 5w30 is thicker then 10w30, crazy but true by a lot. People say hths doesn't matter because it is tested under "hot" conditions. However, when you have a tick you will have a hot spot there, so hths is exactly what you should look at. I will try and capture it on audio if I can, mind you it is much less then before, but being sensitive to it and the knowledge of the cam issues, I'm going to what worked. Now, the 10w30 RLK's favorite has no vii's and if it works for you obviously makes for great hemi uoa's. But if you have a tick, the 5 winter rated redline's are where you should look.
Discussion, which is worse hot idle tick or cold idle tick? I know most engine wear happens at start up, so that would be the easy answer. But if you get hot idle tick that is a real sign your engine is starving for adequate lubrication, where as start up tick you can kind of accept that somewhat. Also, there was that theory about warming up your truck being worse then not warming up your truck, and to be honest I thought it was not true, but now I realize it really is. Syn was right about that 1. Now, most of the world doesn't really know about the hearty moly'd oils ability to address cold idle tick, but as we all know oil choice can make a difference. All you can do is try a couple things, if something works well there you go. If it doesn't work at least you know you tried.