Synthetic Oil

[Wild one]

You know, I thought about your suggestion. But, if I changed the filter, and started the engine and saw no change, then I could change the oil but would have to change the filter a second time. You surely would not want me to put clean oil into a dirty filter. Then I would have to start the engine and see the results.
Then you wanted me to switch the sending unit as a third event, with fresh oil dribbling out of the sensor hole.

I just wanted to “get ‘er done”. I suspected the oil pressure sending unit all along. But, it was time for an oil and filter change anyway so I did it all at once. By changing the sensor with no oil in the engine, no oil dribbled out on to the floor for a big mess.

I can’t believe that Royal Purple oil would be the culprit, as thousands of people use it for years, including me. I seriously doubted that the RP filter was bad either, though it could have been. I did cut open the filter afterwards and found that all was good. Nothing broken and no sludge.

I also felt that if, after changing the oil, filter, and sensor all at one time that if the oil pressure was still low, it was going directly to the dealer….still under the power train warranty.

So, that’s my rationale, faulty though you might think it is.

I would of changed the sensor first,not the oil or filter.That would of told you if it was the sensor .
But you're right the sensors do fail,mine went at 25,000 miles,at the time i did mine,there was a supposed upgraded sensor from the dealer.All i know is the new sensor hasn't given me any trouble in the 25,000 miles it's been in place.

 

[HEMIMANN]

which Military service were U in, NAVY by ne chance?

But of course. Are there others? ;-)

 

[turkeybird56]

But of course. Are there others? ;-)

Explains your comments, roflmao..... In da NAVY

 

[Scybron]

First time owner of a Ram truck. Just purchased a PW 6.4 hemi. Just left ford and all the problems with the superdutys so i really need this truck to last.

Been reading thru this thread for three nights now, have lots of questions.

Burla and others
In different posts you mentioned using RL early on, but in other posts you stated not in newer motors. When do you recommend switching to RL?

Do you still recommend RL 5w30 in the 6.4 hemi?

if i use a larger RP filter should i add more then the 7 recommended qrts?


thanks for all the info Gents

 

[ramffml]

First time owner of a Ram truck. Just purchased a PW 6.4 hemi. Just left ford and all the problems with the superdutys so i really need this truck to last.

Been reading thru this thread for three nights now, have lots of questions.

Burla and others
In different posts you mentioned using RL early on, but in other posts you stated not in newer motors. When do you recommend switching to RL?

Do you still recommend RL 5w30 in the 6.4 hemi?

if i use a larger RP filter should i add more then the 7 recommended qrts?


thanks for all the info Gents

I personally would run it after your first oil change; so keep the factory oil as its designed for that first few thousand miles, but definitely by 5000 miles I'd be running RL. I switched at about 9000 miles I think, basically as soon as I clued into how bad the hemi really is. It immediately responded very well to the new oil, it became much quieter. My used oil analysis reports are showing excellent decrease in wear so you really can't go wrong with RL, just run it and pay the price as "insurance". It's your best shot at keeping your engine alive.

 

[Burla]

Just know technically it doesnt certify that spec for that engine. Just check how it is on the fill line on dipstick, it will likely take 7.5 qrt. If I had a 6.4, I would be on either 5w30 redline or 5w40 redline but not 0w40 redline, most likely it would be 5w30 redline. It is more stable then 0w40 srt oil and will be thicker at the end of an interval. SRT oil could have had some more stay in grade features like m1 pao stuff, but it doesnt, it will shear down to the 10's most likely during your interval. I wouldnt bother with uoa's till after 3rd oil change in that young engine, some people differ with me on that 1, I dont like tossing money away.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Just know technically it doesnt certify that spec for that engine. Just check how it is on the fill line on dipstick, it will likely take 7.5 qrt. If I had a 6.4, I would be on either 5w30 redline or 5w40 redline but not 0w40 redline, most likely it would be 5w30 redline. It is more stable then 0w40 srt oil and will be thicker at the end of an interval. SRT oil could have had some more stay in grade features like m1 pao stuff, but it doesnt, it will shear down to the 10's most likely during your interval. I wouldnt bother with uoa's till after 3rd oil change in that young engine, some people differ with me on that 1, I dont like tossing money away.

I'd also say the choice between RL 5W30 and RL 5W40 in the 6.4's also comes down to usage/climate. When I had the SRT I found that 5W40 would hold up better for having fun in the middle of summer when oil temps would regularly get near 250 on a 100 degree plus day. If that 6.4 is going to be worked in a hotter climate, especially given the truck's having the hotter t-stats, I'd say lean towards the 5W40. If it's going to be empty cruising down the highway then RL 5W30 is a perfect choice imo.

We noticed similar behavior in the old man's last 6.4 2500 when he would do some heavy pulling up grades during summer. RL 5W40 would go the whole OCI without any startup chatter while 0W40 or 5W30 would develop some in the last couple hundred miles if it sat for a while. Not the most scientific test, but if one oil keeps startup chatter gone for the entire OCI while the other doesn't that's a good enough metric for me. I had wanted to do some UOA's on both to get a better idea of why this might be in the case of those two engines, but I ended up getting rid of my Challenger so I could put the fiance into something and my old man traded up to a '22 Cummins.

 

[Burla]

I dont disagree with any of that, just to add in beginning of interval visc.

Redline 5w40 = 15.6
Redline 5w30 = 11.9
SRT 0w40- 13.9 but within 4k miles is in the 10's see hammers uoas. In basic terms redline 5w30 = srt oil in visc, 5w40 redline would be an increase which means better protection in heat, less protection in cold and dry start.

So if you want to go into it further look up old uoa's here and bitog. And by all means let an engine tell you what it likes, if one oil makes you truck chatter at start up and one oil doesn't, use the oil that doesnt, as long as it is within reason, as in avoiding the oil thickners that are just dangerous. IMO 5w40 is within reason here, even 5w40 group 3 and lubegard wouldnt be a bad move either. hope that was helpful to op.

 

[Burla]

Well, I just looked a little harder thanks to Joshua's post. The 5w40 redline has a better v index and actually better cold performance as hard as it is to believe. So yeah I am warming up to 5w40 redline being as good of choice as 5w30, if not better in some situations. learn something new everyday,

 

[turkeybird56]

I was getting dry starts for a lil while, infrequently. I have followed your thread here and this solved my issue, but I only have 19K on the Odometer. It seems the OEM Mopar Oil Filters anti-drain valves and filters once they get some heat on them and time, just do not work as well. I just had Oil change at dealership and I handed them a Full Synthetic Fram XG10060 to put on (instead of OEM, they did make a face when I handed them the filter). I had them put in 5W 20 Mopar Oil, (which is actually 5W20 PUP branded to Mopar), and it solved my loud starts. If I start hearing any chatter, prob drop in some Lubeguard, but for now happy with the truck and oil pressures. Like BURLA said, though these are mass produced, seems like each ride has their "own" personality and what works for them.

ADDED: Gonna order some larger RP filters to put on. None are available ne where here.

 

[Burla]

I was getting dry starts for a lil while, infrequently. I have followed your thread here and this solved my issue, but I only have 19K on the Odometer. It seems the OEM Mopar Oil Filters anti-drain valves and filters once they get some heat on them and time, just do not work as well. I just had Oil change at dealership and I handed them a Full Synthetic Fram XG10060 to put on (instead of OEM, they did make a face when I handed them the filter). I had them put in 5W 20 Mopar Oil, (which is actually 5W20 PUP branded to Mopar), and it solved my loud starts. If I start hearing any chatter, prob drop in some Lubeguard, but for now happy with the truck and oil pressures. Like BURLA said, though these are mass produced, seems like each ride has their "own" personality and what works for them.

ADDED: Gonna order some larger RP filters to put on. None are available ne where here.

good point bird dog, filtration is a huge part of this as well, as bad as these hemi's are with oil pressure and other issues, find the full flow filter with long lasting media and good bypass. The two top filters imo royal purple 28-820 or Fram ultra. Look at the last few pages on oil filter thread, we had some good info on fram ultra come in.

In 2012 I believe they changed filter size they recommend, but you can use the 20-820 on any 4 gen. As it turns out the smaller filter size has actually had rams throw codes and manu's do not recommend their smaller filter on hemi's. Now, Mopar still recommends their smaller filter, so do what you want with that info, but imo use the larger size recommended here.

 

[turkeybird56]

YUPPERS, the FRAM's easy to get here. RP, no body has em. Heck, I went nuts trying to find full synthetic for my Motorcycle here. May have to order a WIX XP to fit my Honda, LOL. I gotta watch that puppy real close and be right on cause even a 1/4 qt overfill on Honda 1800 motor cause crankcase bypass valve to open and U blow oil out, ask me how I know, LOL.

 

[Burla]

It looks like at this point Fram Ultra is the one filter that can possibly surpase Royal Purple as far as the media goes. The early gm test has RP on top of fram, but the independent filter test has fram ultra above RP. But it does look like both of these are measures above the field. fancy way of saying you can go wrong either way with these two.

 

[Scybron]

I personally would run it after your first oil change; so keep the factory oil as its designed for that first few thousand miles, but definitely by 5000 miles I'd be running RL. I switched at about 9000 miles I think, basically as soon as I clued into how bad the hemi really is. It immediately responded very well to the new oil, it became much quieter. My used oil analysis reports are showing excellent decrease in wear so you really can't go wrong with RL, just run it and pay the price as "insurance". It's your best shot at keeping your engine alive.

Well, I just looked a little harder thanks to Joshua's post. The 5w40 redline has a better v index and actually better cold performance as hard as it is to believe. So yeah I am warming up to 5w40 redline being as good of choice as 5w30, if not better in some situations. learn something new everyday,

I dont disagree with any of that, just to add in beginning of interval visc.

Redline 5w40 = 15.6
Redline 5w30 = 11.9
SRT 0w40- 13.9 but within 4k miles is in the 10's see hammers uoas. In basic terms redline 5w30 = srt oil in visc, 5w40 redline would be an increase which means better protection in heat, less protection in cold and dry start.

So if you want to go into it further look up old uoa's here and bitog. And by all means let an engine tell you what it likes, if one oil makes you truck chatter at start up and one oil doesn't, use the oil that doesnt, as long as it is within reason, as in avoiding the oil thickners that are just dangerous. IMO 5w40 is within reason here, even 5w40 group 3 and lubegard wouldnt be a bad move either. hope that was helpful to op.

thanks, gents. Gonna try the 5w40 after 3500miles.

 

[Scybron]

I personally would run it after your first oil change; so keep the factory oil as its designed for that first few thousand miles, but definitely by 5000 miles I'd be running RL. I switched at about 9000 miles I think, basically as soon as I clued into how bad the hemi really is. It immediately responded very well to the new oil, it became much quieter. My used oil analysis reports are showing excellent decrease in wear so you really can't go wrong with RL, just run it and pay the price as "insurance". It's your best shot at keeping your engine alive.

thanks for the great info

 

[Rod Knock]

For those who don't understand how stuff works:

MMX Hemi Lifter Tech Video

Our engine builder and HEMI Tech, Byron, reviews some commonly used lifters.Shop MDS delete kits: http://www.modernmusclextreme.com/CSearch.aspx?Search=MDS+...

www.youtube.com

 

[JHoward]

First time owner of a Ram truck. Just purchased a PW 6.4 hemi. Just left ford and all the problems with the superdutys so i really need this truck to last.

Been reading thru this thread for three nights now, have lots of questions.

Burla and others
In different posts you mentioned using RL early on, but in other posts you stated not in newer motors. When do you recommend switching to RL?

Do you still recommend RL 5w30 in the 6.4 hemi?

if i use a larger RP filter should i add more then the 7 recommended qrts?


thanks for all the info Gents

FWIW, I made the change to Red Line 5w/30 from Pennzoil Platinum 5w/20 and 30 in my 2017 HEMI in August of last year. It made a huge difference on reducing the occasional dry start/engine drive train clatter. Never had the infamous HEMI tick.

Now this is the most quiet HEMI that I've owned and I should have used Red Line 5w/30 in my previous HEMI powered RAM trucks.

IMA, alot of folks have a different opinion(s) on oil(s) and oil filters, it's a matter of what works best for your HEMI. (For alot of ppl here in the RAMFORUM it's Red Line 5w/30 oil and an Royal Purple 20-820 oil filter).

Therefore, an oil/oil filter is an strategy that some folks lable as an "band aid". I like saying it is cheap insurance.

Enjoy and happy motoring with your truck.

JHoward

 

[HEMIMANN]

but you can use the 20-820 on any 4 gen

Minor caveat: heavy duty truck Hemi engines don't fit larger diameter oil filters - oil filter adapter is turned 90 degrees from engine block pointing forward toward the radiator, and filter body runs just under the lower radiator hose. Royal Purple 20-820 and Fram Ultra XG2 are likely too large.

The next biggest oversize filters are Royal Purple 20-500 and Fram Ultra XG10575. I have had good success fitting these. They are the same diameter as the little factory filters, but longer.

 

[Burla]

I thought they could use it, I'll just call kyle and he can verify that Hman. I really don't know for sure, lets just get s verify on this, maybe tj if he is still around as well. @U&A what filter do you use?

 

[HEMIMANN]

I thought they could use it, I'll just call kyle and he can verify that Hman. I really don't know for sure, lets just get s verify on this, maybe tj if he is still around as well. @U&A what filter do you use?

fyi.....when I photoged the filter housing, and ran my finger in there, there was no clearance between the oil filter cannister and the lower radiator hose on my truck. I didn't buy an oversize diameter and try to squish in the hose, knowing driving vibration would abrade the hose.