Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

For anyone considering running Shaeffer's, this may be of interest.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDF1zcaxrNU

A million miles looks good on Shaeffers oil. Engine tear downs the only true gauge of an oil.

 

[Burla]

My personal experience with liqui moly wasn't good, I put a whole can in, maybe that was my error. It remains a very respected additive at Bob's and doesn't end up in filter. I probably should have gave it more time now what we know about moly and taking a good 500 miles to plate. I didn't like the sound, so I drained it. My error all around. I hope we do get the oil soluble liqui moly soon, if you want it on ebay it will cost a fortune, at that point mise well run redline.

I've seen some impressive pics somewhere about cams with a nice film thanks to liqui moly, worth some more research imo.

 

[U&A]

My personal experience with liqui moly wasn't good, I put a whole can in, maybe that was my error. It remains a very respected additive at Bob's and doesn't end up in filter. I probably should have gave it more time now what we know about moly and taking a good 500 miles to plate. I didn't like the sound, so I drained it. My error all around. I hope we do get the oil soluble liqui moly soon, if you want it on ebay it will cost a fortune, at that point mise well run redline.

I've seen some impressive pics somewhere about cams with a nice film thanks to liqui moly, worth some more research imo.

I do remember you posting about when you used product and that has been stuck in my head whenever I think of using it. The only thing that I really will take into consideration as proof that liquid Molly actually works is oil analysis befor and after use....And for our specific sake (hemi owners) removing the tick.

Being liquid Molly particles are supposed to be small enough to pass through filter I'm sure they really don't get caught up in it. But being that it is in a solid-state concerns me is just a little bit.

That sound to you mentioned when you used it is not a good sound By ANY means.

But i do want to say that i can NOT discredit anything without proof that it doenst work.

 

[joneseysr6]

During the summer month I would say 10W-30 PUP would be a great selection.
During your winters in NY if you want/like possibly switch to 5W-30 or 5W-20!

I am living proof with many years since I was 16 of running 10W-30 in all my autos year round. Both my 2 trucks had over 200K miles on the motors at the time of sale. Mind you I used Conventional QS Deluxe 10W-30 with a Orange can Fram Filter & Never an issue.
&
Today's Synthetic 10W-30 have much better flow/pump characteristics then in the 80's. Night & Day difference!

Don't ever be brainwashed into thinking the 10W-30 viscosity is thick.
PUP 10W-30 has a pour point of -45*F if I remember correctly.

The key is to illuminate as many cold weather start up and long idle times as possible. Start your truck let it idle for a couple minutes and then slowly drive away get that oil up to Temp as fast as you can.

Jones what type/brand of oil filter you plan on running with the PUP?

Just remember fellas just keeping and doing good routine maintenance on these engines is going to get you well past 300,000 miles don't get caught Up to much in the most engine wear occurs here thing!!

Keep that Air intake system clean
Use a Top Quality Oil/Filter
Establish the proper OCI for your driving style/habits
Drive like a civilized human being
Eliminate as much cold start up idle time as possible
Try to get that oil up to operating temp every time you drive (To evaporate all the moisture & cook out as much carbon deposit as possible).

thanks for your thoughts SYN. I am running the fram synthetic filters with my PUP that i've gotten from the pennzoil oil analysis program. My fisrt oil change was @ 2000 miles and i then went with mobil1 5-20. After that, i got in on the pennzoil program and have done two changes using pup 5-20 PUP since. I am now on a mix of 4 quarts of PUP 5-20 and 3 quarts of 5-30 ( as Gena sent me 5-30 on my last go around by accident ). I then started reading this thread and realized how thin the 20 weight was and figured i'd mix the 5-20 and 5-30 together until i run out and the go strictly with 5-30 weight ( my next oil change will be 3 quarts of 5-20 and 4 quarts of 5-30 ).

Then yesterday i saw the 10-30 PUP on amazon, i figured in my location, there should be almost no reason why i couldn't use it. I'd rather not have to worry about winter and summer oil changes, so i may just stick with the 5w-30 and pay the extra few dollars for piece of mind.

Probably over thinking the whole thing like i do on most decisions i make in life, lol. Probably be fine wither way i go......

Thanks for your thought though !!!

 

[Burla]

Even though I had one bad experience, that product has so much potential it is one thing I might try again. I encourage you guys to check out some of the posting over at bobs on mos2.

 

[SyN]

Ya know after looking through & over at least 8 UOA reports that MoS2 was used.
I honestly didn't see any results that showed lower wear #s.
But in the same breath I didn't see any increase in wear #s either.

Reports are Quieter/More Smooth running motors!
Some even report a small increase in MPG.
Some even report less oil consumption between oil changes.

I guess what I am trying to say is I honestly don't feel a need to add this additive.

I do apologize for leading any of you in to believing this additive would make a difference with the so called lifter tick.

Just stick with what Burla has shown/proved too be most effective---->A oil with a High Moly count!

I myself will still continue to look into this ZDDP additive.
I ordered 2 bottles of the ZDDP Plus additive!
It has nothing but stellar reviews.

ZDDPPlus ZDDP Engine Oil Additive Zinc & Phosphorus 2 Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LB70SW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1FPAzbB0YTMT3

It should arrive Tuesday I will add 1 bottle to my (Still New) OCI & at the end run a UOA.

 

[U&A]

Ya know after looking through & over at least 8 UOA reports that MoS2 was used.
I honestly didn't see any results that showed lower wear #s.
But in the same breath I didn't see any increase in wear #s either.

Reports are Quieter/More Smooth running motors!
Some even report a small increase in MPG.
Some even report less oil consumption between oil changes.

I guess what I am trying to say is I honestly don't feel a need to add this additive.

I do apologize for leading any of you in to believing this additive would make a difference with the so called lifter tick.

Just stick with what Burla has shown/proved too be most effective---->A oil with a High Moly count!

I myself will still continue to look into this ZDDP additive.

No need to apologize it's a great topic of conversation that needs to be discussed more in the Hemi world. We need another guinea pig for a before and after UOA


ZDDP, as far as I know there are two of us that are doing the same redline additive one with a 5.7 and I with a 6.4. I'm assuming the gentleman with the 5.7 will be showing a UOA with the additive and I will as well on my current Fill.

Off to mow the lawn with my PUP 0w40 filled Lawn mower.. LOL

 

[Hemi395]

Anyone else having issues getting their second Pennzoil UOA kit? I emailed the address that Gena provided me in the beginning of June, got a response that they will get my kit in the mail that week. Nothing ever showed up, no tracking number was provided. Fastward to the beginning of July and I emailed the person that responded. She apologized and said they would get it in the mail last Wednesday and then she would send me the tracking number. Still no kit. Ill give this until Tues before I email her again.

I mean it's not urgent because I have plenty of PUP 0w40, 5w20, and 5w30 to mix for my next oil change, it's just the principle.

 

[R.L.K.]

Hmm , I haven't attempted to request for my 2nd kit yet but looks like I'll be requesting mine plenty early ...

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[Hemi395]

Hmm , I haven't attempted to request for my 2nd kit yet but looks like I'll be requesting mine plenty early ...

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Yeah I would. I did it early figuring I'd get it ahead of time but at this rate I'll be ready by the time they actually get it here

 

[smiley]

I had no issue getting my second one from Gena.

 

[Burla]

Maybe Corey's got lost, we will have to see if the other guys get theirs. It could be they gave up on the program, as the market just hasn't supported PUP. Too bad, anytime someone makes something great in oil, the market doesn't understand the value. I asked for my second case like a week after I got my first, lol.

 

[SyN]

Very interesting thread on base oils!


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4452942/all/List_of_oils_by_base-oil-quali

 

[Burla]

That is cool Syn, 4 was pretty interesting, those guys know this?

(4) Since in 2013 Shell was using surplus GTL in Pennzoil Yellow Bottle and Quaker State Advanced Durability conventional oils, they excelled in BOQI. These oils were premium GTL full synthetics despite being sold as conventional.

Explain BOQI ? BOQI = (2,000,000)/(DV-30)/(NOACK)

Why not just use noack? Nevermind I get it, add dynamic viscosity as a value plus noack.

A lot of those boys hit the nail on the head, additive package is more important then base oil, at least in engines. Opposite is true for gears, and maybe transmissions.

 

[SyN]

A lot of these #s confused the heck out me!
This topic Gokhan started opened a lot of eyes but also brought many questions?

Of course you get the same members coming back who always say the additive package is not as important as the base oil now visit and say just the opposite!

It takes both to create an oil that achieves (Constant) low Wear #'s.
Which is what WE All who have a clue what is going on are trying to achieve!
(PP & PUP both have been doing this for years with proof of posted UOAs).

Many interesting ideas @ thoughts are posted!

I know I am thrilled with my oil choice.
Shell/Pennzoil are making Excellent-Top Tier Oils!--->Without having to pay the Boutique Oil Price!

Gokhans work might not be 100% accurate but it is an interesting topic to discuss.

 

[Burla]

Definitely, good to see quaker state up there as well.

 

[R.L.K.]

That is cool Syn, 4 was pretty interesting, those guys know this?

(4) Since in 2013 Shell was using surplus GTL in Pennzoil Yellow Bottle and Quaker State Advanced Durability conventional oils, they excelled in BOQI. These oils were premium GTL full synthetics despite being sold as conventional.

Explain BOQI ? BOQI = (2,000,000)/(DV-30)/(NOACK)

Why not just use noack? Nevermind I get it, add dynamic viscosity as a value plus noack.

A lot of those boys hit the nail on the head, additive package is more important then base oil, at least in engines. Opposite is true for gears, and maybe transmissions.

I.agree 100 % , although it does get a bit confusing at times during the read ....

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[Rampant]

Very interesting thread on base oils!


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4452942/all/List_of_oils_by_base-oil-quali

Interesting indeed. Its always interesting to see a new way to skew numbers. As Burla eluded to, what's wrong with using the universally accepted NOAK? Apples to apples. One way to sway a certain product is to create a test that makes it shine. Just sayin'.

One thing I know they have right is that semi-synthetics are a hack. They are still unregulated to this day. They can have as little as 1% synthetic base stock and be considered semi. Something needs to be done about that in order for informed consumers to take it seriously.

To me, the base stock is every bit as important as the additive pkg. Without a robust base stock, your TBN will be very low, leaving your oil susceptible to oxidation at a rate that gains exponentially with exposure to even crankcase atmosphere.

Its very similar to the relationship between torque and horsepower. They need one another. Sometimes certain attributes of one casts a shadow on the other. Mission dictates necessity.

 

[R.L.K.]

Wow , well said Sir !

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[R.L.K.]

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be draining the wife's oil in her 07 Magnum & her 16 Challenger , I'll be taking samples of both and sending in to Blackstone labs for a UOA .
As always I'll post them up here , with details of course. .

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