Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

I don't even need one to tell you what's in it. Old school racing oils take the calcium out or way low and likely high zinc (like real high). Kinda funny if you think about it, but in racing you do every little thing you can. If you look on the website it says you have to change the oil sooner, that is code for it's got low calcium. M1 I believe changed the racing oil industry with a racing oil with calcium. Now, none of what I said was 100% fact, just what I believe to be true. One thing for sure, you don't want racing oil in your consumer trucks.

 

[dan1911]

I have to brag a bit on a product.
Last night we changed the oil in my sons GMC sierra 5.3L for his mid summer OCI. She just rolled over 165K miles! Still smooth/quiet & no oil is burned between OCIs.

These new Bottles from Pennzoil are very well designed.
I'll bet I'm the only one who thinks about & appreciates things like this? LoL

The pour was very smooth/controlled & No Big Gulping! Really nice for once.

Funny you mention that! I changed my oil about 3 days ago and told my girlfriend the EXACT same thing. The RP I used last OC gulped and was a pain, this stuff was awesome.

Not sure if this is the oil or mind games, but my idle has dropped a lot. With RP I was around 850-900 and now I'm right around 500 while parked. Engine is exceedingly smooth and oil pressure dropped 1-2 psi at highway speed. Truck runs quieter and seems to be happy [emoji4]


Sent via telepathy

 

[Burla]

Dan if you used RP over the counter it had no moly, now you have moly, dere ya go.

 

[dan1911]

Dan if you used RP over the counter it had no moly, now you have moly, dere ya go.

Yea I figured that out way too late. It was recommended to me by some fella in Anchorage at the dealership but I hadnt done my homework. I knew the name and wanted to get it done before winter so just went for it. Was never really happy how she ran and then discovered this forum. I have been impatiently waiting to change it and finally got to get it done

 

[Burla]

Glad to be a resource for ya, the list of junk I had put in my vehicles before finding Bob's when they first started, I tell ya.

 

[Burla]

No unfortunately it's not. Half the DIY threads on here and every other forum have no pics anymore because of Photobucket

Photofkit, what a colossal blunder of the internet. Man, 1/2 the pic threads on the net are empty. Funny the empty photo's still say photo bucket, and those dummies think that is good advertising? lol

flkr all the way, only be empty if you delete it.

 

[Rampant]

Does anyone have a VOA of one of Redlines Racing oil?

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There is a guy over on the Corvette forum who has tested it. Without wading through the whole thing, here are some numbers at a glance:

30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
ZDDP = 2100 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

Link is here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...test-data-on-amsoil-dominator-racing-oil.html

 

[Rampant]

... And we thought we were oil geeks... This engineer has us all beat. By a country mile. And then some. He's tested around 200 different oils and posts the results and all kinds of info on his blog. Interesting read if you have a few hours.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

[Burla]

Rampart that guy is dumb as dirt, top two prolong oil treatment? Yes chlorinated parrifins will make great lubricity in your engine, and as a side benefit leave you susceptible for corrosion. Google chlorinated parrifins and engine damage.

 

[Burla]

Actually I take it back, the guy does disclose the product can cause damage. Why would he test that when he knew it can/will create damage? At least he stated it if you read what he says, so I guess we can't hold that against him.

 

[SyN]

Yup Rats tests have been discussed for years by many!
Those that know anything find it interesting, but that's about as far as they take it!

We want to see/witness actual testing done in a real world hard working engines!
Not some Lab Rat!

 

[Burla]

Rampant, did that guy have the calcium numbers on the racing oil? thanks

 

[Rampant]

Rampant, did that guy have the calcium numbers on the racing oil? thanks

Who knows how accurate this is with it being 6 yrs old, but I guess it's a good snapshot.


Redline 30wt Race Oil synthetic (lab tested 2011)
Silicon = 23 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = 70 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge, anti-wear)
Magnesium = 4 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 1982 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 3 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Zinc = 2207 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 2052 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 1235 ppm (anti-wear)
Potassium = 4 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
Sodium = 20 ppm (anti-freeze corrosion inhibitor)
TBN = 5.0 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 9.9 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.

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These ZDDP values are high enough here, that this oil really is only suited for short life dedicated racing engines, as the name implies. Using zinc/phos levels this high in other engines could be cause for concern, since excessively high levels, can “cause” engine damage rather than “prevent” it.

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The very low TBN value in this Redline oil is also consistent with short term use only.

 

[R.L.K.]

Wonder if those high zinc & phosphorus #s would be harmful mixed with 6 qts of Redline 5W-30 oil for street use though ?

Look at the molybdenum @ 1235 ppm ! Good lord

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[Rampant]

Wonder if those high zinc & phosphorus #s would be harmful mixed with 6 qts of Redline 5W-30 oil for street use though ?

Look at the molybdenum @ 1235 ppm ! Good lord

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Of all the data on that site, the highest moly I found was:

PPM Moly
1764- 10w30 Lucas Racing
1326- 0w50 M1 Racing
1235- 30w RL Racing
1125- 10w30 Joe Gibbs XP3 NASCAR Racing Syn
871- 10w30 Lucas Hot Rod
784- 10w30 Valvaline Racing conv.
598- 5w30 LAT Syn Racing
481- 5w30 Motul 300v Ester Core 4T Racing
339- 5w30 Klotz Estorlin Racing
267- 5w30 Pennz Conv
227- 10w40 Torco Conv Racing
204- 5w30 Royal Purple XPR Syn

 

[Burla]

That is what racing oils are, high lubricity and low detergency.

One oil that looks like it might mix nicely with redline racing oil would be Amsoil SS. No I'm not suggesting it, but if someone was so inclined to use redline racing oil, you would want to pair that with the highest calcium (tbn) oil you could find. Me personally, I'm pretty ok with running redline blue label.


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[Rampant]

That is what racing oils are, high lubricity and low detergency.

One oil that looks like it might mix nicely with redline racing oil would be Amsoil SS. No I'm not suggesting it, but if someone was so inclined to use redline racing oil, you would want to pair that with the highest calcium (tbn) oil you could find. Me personally, I'm pretty ok with running redline blue label.


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I agree the additive packages would make a helluva slick cocktail, although I don't know how well/if esters and non-ester bases play together. Interesting.

 

[Hemi395]

Amsoil SS is a mix of PAO and Esters so mixing it with Redline should be fine. I agree that's one insane combo. Pretty much the best of both oils.

 

[Rampant]

Amsoil SS is a mix of PAO and Esters so mixing it with Redline should be fine. I agree that's one insane combo. Pretty much the best of both oils.

Yep, you are right. I should have said "I dont' know how well the types of Ester mixes used in each brand play together". There are literally thousands of different esters and not all of them play well with each other, let alone certain types of PAOs. Most, if not all modern full syns are a mixture of esters and PAOs.

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[Burla]

Redline blue label is a mix between group 4 and 5 oils and would mix with any base oil sold otc. Now, the real question would be other additives that don't show up in uoa's such as detergents or anti foams or something else. I've posted a few times what machinelube says on mixing, it really isn't suggested. However, in an engine application the dynamics are really forgiving on what you can get away with running. After seeing those sick moly levels, maybe tossing a quart into a 6 qrts blue label would be the way to go to battle tick, but you would be sacrificing some tbn. Staying in brand might be the best move. My advice, small risk and if you don't have the tick, I wouldn't do it.

redline products all state compatible with petroleum.