Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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chrisbh17

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Good luck on the fitament Syn, I would check before I bought it.

The mistake I made with my 1500!

Didnt realize the stupid shark fin antenna was too tall for my garage :(

But I love the truck enough I can just deal with working on it in the driveway. Worst case I change to the factory 17"s (non-Rebel) to lower it enough.

Or I swap out the combo sharkfin for the puck antenna and relocate the sharkfin.
 

Burla

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Burla, I don't entirely agree, but when I retire, just turned sixty, I am going down south to find a 3rd gen 2500 or 3500 Cummins 4x4. Should be rust free and I am going to rebuild the engine and any other part that needs to be rebuilt is: trans, dogs transfer case and will have the interior done by a pro. Might cos the same as a new one, but won't have all the polution EPA bull. It will also be better than new.

2002 Cummins with the 24 valve, if you can get past the looks of the 2002, imo the best Cummins made. Now, some of the 12 valve Cummins I believe do not have CPU's, I don't know what years but that is also worth looking into. Both do have some weaknesses, read here. But, if you ask me I would take the old ones any day of the week. I drove a Cummins 1986-1996 for a living, that thing was butter smooth. I then bought a 2001 Ram, and again that thing was so smooth, the turbo sounded so pure and sweet. I fricken had to trade it because my knee blew out and I couldn't shift it anymore. If I would have bought an auto tranny that year that would have been my last vehicle, I would have been set for life. I test drove a 2014 or close, I hated it. I tell anyone, just test drive one of the old Cummins before shelling out this kind of money for vehicles not built to last.
 

Burla

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Yeah, I aint a fan of the shark fin neither. But that is cutting it close if you are that close. You need a low rider set up, ride stock height around town, when you do to park it drop the suspension.
 
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SyN

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Yup my SF clears my garage door by about 2in.
(On my 1500)
 
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chrisbh17

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Yeah, I aint a fan of the shark fin neither. But that is cutting it close if you are that close. You need a low rider set up, ride stock height around town, when you do to park it drop the suspension.
The "raised ride height" build sheet option didn't help either. Seems to be no rhyme or reason which trucks get it but mine won that lottery.... Free 1" lift from the factory.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

U&A

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Well sad thing is our home was built in the 70’s
Just your basic double car garage. My 1500 will fit but it is snug. I have about 2 ft to spare up front!

The 2500 is a crew cab not a quad as well as a bit taller! Thus the reason for a Engine block heater for the winter months just in case the 2500 is too tall.

I was thinking of putting up one of those nice metal car ports anyway.
Lay a tap measure under the 2500. Get a bumper to bumper measurement. Thats what i did before I bought mine. I WILL NOT park our vehicles outside.
 
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U&A

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Yeah, I aint a fan of the shark fin neither. But that is cutting it close if you are that close. You need a low rider set up, ride stock height around town, when you do to park it drop the suspension.

If we get any more that 4 inches of snow i have to shovel it before backing out or i get REALLY CLOSE to hitting my truck roof on the door. .... i have the scratches on my roof to prove it. LOL...:roflsquared:
 
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U&A

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SYN,

i have had the same great results as HEMI did with using Redline C+ in my 66RFE. The 66 and 68 share the same gears. The 68 has a stronger torque converter and slightly different housing. They are still very similar though.

I would ask dave at redline to be safe.
 

69GWC

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I personally feel that the lifter problem is poor manufacturing or lack of oil.
Redline is either fixing the problem by coating the parts better and staying in place and not running off or it does a good job of just covering up the noise.

jmo
 

SyN

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I feel the RL C+ will be going in both the TC & 68RFE! Within the first year.

I will post a few pics if she ends up in our driveway on Saturday!
 

chrisbh17

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I personally feel that the lifter problem is poor manufacturing or lack of oil.
Redline is either fixing the problem by coating the parts better and staying in place and not running off or it does a good job of just covering up the noise.

jmo

I like to think on the bright side, that the moly in RedLine (or any oil with moly, for that matter) "plates" to the parts that wear and cause the noise.
 

R.L.K.

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I feel the RL C+ will be going in both the TC & 68RFE! Within the first year.

I will post a few pics if she ends up in our driveway on Saturday!
I'm in the same boat as Hemi -395 , as my 65 RFEruns great on the RL C+

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Hemi395

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It also might be when the seized lifter roller turns into a flat tappet lifter, the zinc may be protecting the cam lobe therefore quieting everything up. Of course this is just speculation...
 

R.L.K.

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It also might be when the seized lifter roller turns into a flat tappet lifter, the zinc may be protecting the cam lobe therefore quieting everything up. Of course this is just speculation...
If this were the case , you'd have high ppm of iron . Quiet or not the metal would be made ....?

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Hemi395

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If this were the case , you'd have high ppm of iron . Quiet or not the metal would be made ....?

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Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. Wouldn't all these people with smoothed out cam lobes have high iron counts in their uoa?
 

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