What mod next?

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Battleram

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Hello everyone. I am itching to do more to my ram (reg cab 2wd) but don’t know what to do next. My current mods are:
Diablo trinity with Hemifever tune and trans tune, vararam cai, JBA log tubes with catless y pipe with 14 in magnaflow dumped, clutch fan delete, 180 thermostat, rear locker with factory 3:21 gears 8 speed. Pedal commander, 305/35-R22 tires.

is there anything else that will give me more without getting into the motor. If not what should I do next for most hp for the money?
 

Quick_Shifter

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Hello everyone. I am itching to do more to my ram (reg cab 2wd) but don’t know what to do next. My current mods are:
Diablo trinity with Hemifever tune and trans tune, vararam cai, JBA log tubes with catless y pipe with 14 in magnaflow dumped, clutch fan delete, 180 thermostat, rear locker with factory 3:21 gears 8 speed. Pedal commander, 305/35-R22 tires.

is there anything else that will give me more without getting into the motor. If not what should I do next for most hp for the money?

ATI Underdrive Pully
 

Wild one

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As stated nitrous is your best bang for buck mod.The Hemi will swallow a 75 shot of nitrous all day long and never hurt anything but rear tires.Keep the nitrous shot small and go hurt some quick cars feelings,lol. A 75 shot will take close to a full second off your 1/4 mile times.If you're running low 13's now ,with a 75 shot you'll be low 12's
 

VelocityC6Z

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Throttle body and intake manifold. You'll notice more with the intake manifold. Then a retune.

You already have the rear locker, so I would say go 4.10's. I'm not sure if you're going for a street or off road truck. But if you're trying to keep it street, lowering rotational mass like tires and wheels. Maybe going from 33" tires to 31" tires and a smaller wheel for weight savings and taller rubber. You'll definitely need the traction going to 4.10's.

Every pound of dropped rotational mass is equivalent to like 6 whp. So going from the stock 70 pounds per tire/wheel to 60 at all the corners is like dropping 40 pounds. So 200 hp. It's not quite as cut and dry as that, as it also depends where the weight is balanced on the rim, as weight closer to the center of the rotating mass is better than at the outside closer to the tread for example.

Lighter brakes for example make a difference, but I haven't seen anything remarkable for our trucks.
 

VelocityC6Z

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Just noticed you already dropped to a 30.5" tire. My only suggestion would be a smaller/lighter wheel. I don't know what you have in terms of weight on the 22's, but the tires aren't very tall, which hurts your traction. If that's something you're concerned with.
 

Wild one

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Throttle body and intake manifold. You'll notice more with the intake manifold. Then a retune.

You already have the rear locker, so I would say go 4.10's. I'm not sure if you're going for a street or off road truck. But if you're trying to keep it street, lowering rotational mass like tires and wheels. Maybe going from 33" tires to 31" tires and a smaller wheel for weight savings and taller rubber. You'll definitely need the traction going to 4.10's.

Every pound of dropped rotational mass is equivalent to like 6 whp. So going from the stock 70 pounds per tire/wheel to 60 at all the corners is like dropping 40 pounds. So 200 hp. It's not quite as cut and dry as that, as it also depends where the weight is balanced on the rim, as weight closer to the center of the rotating mass is better than at the outside closer to the tread for example.

Lighter brakes for example make a difference, but I haven't seen anything remarkable for our trucks.

Old school rule from years ago,is every lb of rotational weight = 4 lbs of static weight.I'm guessing that old rule is still pretty close,lol
 

Nick@GotExhaust

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The lighter the better. rule of thumb, every 200lbs(roughly) is a 1/10th.
 

ModRam1500

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Hello Battleram I recently made some changes to my truck and have something that was a good power adder that i'm currently selling, its a stock intake manifold that was fully ported by MMX. I purchased it new from them and had it had on my truck for a while and definitely noticed some gains from it. So if your interested you can email me at [email protected]
 

VelocityC6Z

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If dropping 40 lbs gets me 200 hp then my ***** bout to be bare.

haha well this is just the equivalent in terms of unsprung mass, so tired, wheels, rotors, drive shaft, internals to transmission, I think the crank shaft may be included in that? But then it comes into how far out from the center of gravity... so a drive shaft going from 100 pounds to 10 pounds wouldn't be as huge as a tire going from 100 pounds to 10 pounds for example.

But, the general rule of thumb was pretty accurate on my corvettes dyno. On average over three consecutive pulled I put down 652 to the rear tires. I went to tires that were 6 pounds lighter each, and it averaged around 30 more horsepower on the dyno over three runs.
 

Koopster

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haha well this is just the equivalent in terms of unsprung mass, so tired, wheels, rotors, drive shaft, internals to transmission, I think the crank shaft may be included in that? But then it comes into how far out from the center of gravity... so a drive shaft going from 100 pounds to 10 pounds wouldn't be as huge as a tire going from 100 pounds to 10 pounds for example.

But, the general rule of thumb was pretty accurate on my corvettes dyno. On average over three consecutive pulled I put down 652 to the rear tires. I went to tires that were 6 pounds lighter each, and it averaged around 30 more horsepower on the dyno over three runs.

Your math doesn't quite add up here.

200hp/40lbs = 5hp/lb

Your corvette data (sounds like a nice car!) shows that you got 1.25hp/lb, which is still very respectable.
6lb per tire = 24lbs
30hp/24lbs = 1.25hp/lb
 

88ROOK

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Hello everyone. I am itching to do more to my ram (reg cab 2wd) but don’t know what to do next. My current mods are:
Diablo trinity with Hemifever tune and trans tune, vararam cai, JBA log tubes with catless y pipe with 14 in magnaflow dumped, clutch fan delete, 180 thermostat, rear locker with factory 3:21 gears 8 speed. Pedal commander, 305/35-R22 tires.

is there anything else that will give me more without getting into the motor. If not what should I do next for most hp for the money?

i got just what you need, a 3000 rpm edge stall convertor. lower those 0-60
 

Dakota2020

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Definitely a Supercharger.
It’s a truck, not a sports car. Weight is a huge factor. You need more HP and torque to get these things moving.
 

JS4024

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Why waste money “modifying” a vehicle that was designed to handle the power that it’s putting out stock.
The tranny, drive line, suspension, brakes, frame were NOT designed to handle the horsepower adders people try to sell on here. If you want a race car buy a Demon!
 

Wild one

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Why waste money “modifying” a vehicle that was designed to handle the power that it’s putting out stock.
The tranny, drive line, suspension, brakes, frame were NOT designed to handle the horsepower adders people try to sell on here. If you want a race car buy a Demon!

You're a bit out to lunch on your theories about a truck.If anything the frame and driveline in a truck will handle a power adder better then a car will.Lots of trucks going low 11's/high 10's on bone stock drivelines.Trucks are built for towing and hauling loads,so the frame and rear end will handle a fair bit of power,and they use the same 8 speed tranny as the 485 horse Scatpack cars have,and if you have a 5th Gen with E-torque it actually has the better 8HP75 which is even stronger then the 8HP70 used behind the 485 horse Scatpack cars. Plus your comment about buying a Demon was funny as ****,do you know what used Demons sell for if you can find one,you'd be better off buying a new 807 hp Super Stock Challenger.they're a nicer car to drive on the street then the Demon
 

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