AlfaOBD

[1500ram12]

I did a quick test with a veepeak obd2 reader that I have (bought to use on my 05 2500 5.9L cummins)and at this point was able to access everything that I can with the obdlink mx+. I still want to test it a little more but could be another option

Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports Torque, OBD Fusion app https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IOZuCbNFTVYW2





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[chrisbh17]

The advantage to the OBD MX adapter is that it can pin-switch on the fly....when you try to connect to certain modules in the truck they communicate over a different portion of the CAN and use different pins on the data connector in the truck to do so.

The cheaper adapters wont change pins on the fly, so you need to buy wiring harness adapters that insert between the bluetooth OBD adapter and the data link port, then manually plug them in and remove them depending on what module you want to talk to.

If the Veepeak can switch pins its definitely a good alternative, but eventually even cheap old me broke down and bought a genuine OBD MX.

 

[1500ram12]

I had no problem going from the rf hub to the body Control module and change global up/down. I want to see how it handles changing tire size


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[chrisbh17]

I had no problem going from the rf hub to the body Control module and change global up/down. I want to see how it handles changing tire size


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RF hub and BCM dont need to pin swap.

Door modules, seat module, climate control and radio modules need to pin swap.

 

[AndyT]

The advantage to the OBD MX adapter is that it can pin-switch on the fly....when you try to connect to certain modules in the truck they communicate over a different portion of the CAN and use different pins on the data connector in the truck to do so.

The cheaper adapters wont change pins on the fly, so you need to buy wiring harness adapters that insert between the bluetooth OBD adapter and the data link port, then manually plug them in and remove them depending on what module you want to talk to.

If the Veepeak can switch pins its definitely a good alternative, but eventually even cheap old me broke down and bought a genuine OBD MX.

I have a veepeak, AFAIK it's no better than the cheap $5 one I got off AliExpress years ago that I lost.. it was $40 off Amazon.

Maybe it can pinswap, I've just done it myself with an adapter I have. If it does idk how to do it.

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[AndyT]

Which setting do you use with your HID as long as you have all the stuff like capacitors etc...? Standard or HID?

AFAIK you don't need anything extra if you set it to HIF since it disables PWM. You might need to tell it you have led headlights as well, I've had no issues with mine and I don't have anything extra installed.

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[Ghost_RAM]

From the way I understand it, then pins are already there and there is nothing you need to do. The cheaper not listed ones simply do not have the correct pin locations?

 

[chrisbh17]

From the way I understand it, then pins are already there and there is nothing you need to do. The cheaper not listed ones simply do not have the correct pin locations?

I forget the exact pins used, but certain CAN modules communicate on 3 and 11 IIRC, standard CAN stuff (ECU, etc) communicate across pins 6 and 14.

The OBD adapter plugs into the port but my guess is the cheaper ones only have pins on the device itself that hook to 6 and 14 on the data port. The harness adapters would "cross over" from 6 and 14 to 3 and 11. OBD MX does it automatically.

I have a cheapie bluetooth adapter (BAFX) that works fine with Alfa as long as I dont want to connect to the "special" modules. I looked at buying or building my own adapter, but after all was said and done it would be close to half price of an OBD MX so I just sprung for the OBD MX instead.

 

[TonyMM]

AFAIK you don't need anything extra if you set it to HIF since it disables PWM. You might need to tell it you have led headlights as well, I've had no issues with mine and I don't have anything extra installed.

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So setting to HID or LED would be the best route to go?

Or just leaving like now? I mean it works great so far.

 

[ArcticRat]

So setting to HID or LED would be the best route to go?

Or just leaving like now? I mean it works great so far.

I would leave it alone, Till a problem arises with them, I’m in the same boat hid with associated parts installed, wanted to change it to hid in the BCM and pull associated parts but figure its a waste of time and energy. It’s on the to do list once something goes wrong with them


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[AndyT]

So setting to HID or LED would be the best route to go?

If it's working fine, i'd leave it alone. Changing settings likely won't make any difference.

Setting "High Intensity Discharge" and "LED Low Beams" to "Yes" should fix any issues you might have with LED or HID bulbs.

I've found that the trucks with do one of three things,

1. Turn on -> Shut right off
2. Flicker
3. Work but occasionally shut off for a split second

Changing the two settings seems to fix this. The flickering IIRC is caused by PWM and the odd shutoff is caused by the light out detection.

When testing aftermarket bulbs, always start the engine. I've installed bulbs in vehicles which have worked fine with the engine off but will flicker once the engine is on.

 

[Opie011]

I have the quad housings and set my setting to HID present even though I have LEDs in the low beams. From what I've read, setting the HID present disables the PWM for the lows and setting to LED present does not. I'm using the HR V.4 bulbs with their driver but not using the PWM modules that come with them.

 

[WilliamS]

Some reason I cant get the mirror dip to show up, even when I go into the BCM it says yes, also set the mirrors to memory present.

Also the DRL, is there any way to dim them if I use the turn signals, i have stock projectors with led in there and dont want them on full burn all day long.

 

[Jendsley06]

I forget the exact pins used, but certain CAN modules communicate on 3 and 11 IIRC, standard CAN stuff (ECU, etc) communicate across pins 6 and 14.

The OBD adapter plugs into the port but my guess is the cheaper ones only have pins on the device itself that hook to 6 and 14 on the data port. The harness adapters would "cross over" from 6 and 14 to 3 and 11. OBD MX does it automatically.

I have a cheapie bluetooth adapter (BAFX) that works fine with Alfa as long as I dont want to connect to the "special" modules. I looked at buying or building my own adapter, but after all was said and done it would be close to half price of an OBD MX so I just sprung for the OBD MX instead.

A couple of questions about this subject.
1 (rhetorical) why are some modules set up to communicate on different pins than what is standard? Are they just trying to make life more difficult, or is there a less sinsiter reason?
2. I am using a VGate Bluetooth adapter from Amazon . Cheap, but effective, except for the pin issue. In order to do a proxy alignment on my wife's 200, I need to jumper the pins. Do I disconnect the wires from the old reader and "divert" 3 over to 6, and 11 over to 14? Do I just jump one to the other? I plan to use a dpdt toggle switch, or two if needed. Just want to be clear before I start shorting wires together.

 

[BossHogg]

A couple of questions about this subject.
1 (rhetorical) why are some modules set up to communicate on different pins than what is standard? Are they just trying to make life more difficult, or is there a less sinsiter reason?

Different vehicles, even the same vehicle of different years will have a different network architecture. With all the creature features and safety systems in a vehicle, it is common to find a vehicle with three and four CAN buses with a gateway module that can relay select data frames between buses.

Many modules are global use, therefore, have several configurable parameters. For example, the BCM could be used in several different FCA vehicle across the globe. The car configuration along with the strategy (the module's main program) determine the BCMs behavior.

Can't help with your #2 since I don't have any first-hand knowledge with the VGate of the 200.

 

[chrisbh17]

Actually there are technically 2 can busses in our truck. Each communicates at a different speed.

The two sets of pins correspond to the data leads of each bus.

The lower speed is used a lot for "comfort" type things like seats, radio, etc (the ones that Alfa says require a wiring adapter)

The high speed is used for more mission critical stuff like drivetrain and emissions communication. That bus uses the "default" pins so no adapter is required.

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[ollie770]

Love the AlfaOBD. I already fixed the TPMS pressures and enabled fog lights to stay on with high beams. I want to get the Trailer Name Options to show up. I have the factory brake controller with the 5" radio. Do I just need to change the Trailer Name option in the CSM setting? Can anyone confirm this works for sure or where that setting is?

 

[Ricks Ram]

Love the AlfaOBD. I already fixed the TPMS pressures and enabled fog lights to stay on with high beams. I want to get the Trailer Name Options to show up. I have the factory brake controller with the 5" radio. Do I just need to change the Trailer Name option in the CSM setting? Can anyone confirm this works for sure or where that setting is?

Yes you just need to activate the trailer names in the custsetMenu. There should be three to enable. Trailer selected,Trailer name and trailer type. My truck came from the factory with the trailer brake option. I have the 8.4 now but I'm pretty sure they showed up on my RA2 5" as well before I installed the 8.4.

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[Joe Campanella]

Is there a way to just change the tire pressure from kpa to psi only

 

[AndyT]

Is there a way to just change the tire pressure from kpa to psi only

Ive tried but haven't figured it out, even changing all the unit CSM's to true. Kpa makes no sense to me

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