ProCharger support mods

[jagman_xjs]

What's your RWHP goal? 500-ish? I'd be interested in seeing how your dual fuel pump setup goes, take pictures! I wish I'd have pulled my motor when I did my setup and replaced the pistons, you'll be able to run a bit more boost than I can.

With the ProCharger alone my hp went from 303rwhp to 408rwhp. I am running a catch can. Plus mine only had 10k on it , so hopefully it will do a little better down the road.

 

[Tach_tech]

With the ProCharger alone my hp went from 303rwhp to 408rwhp. I am running a catch can. Plus mine only had 10k on it , so hopefully it will do a little better down the road.

How much boost were you running? 4-5 range?

 

[Booms]

Anyone know if the mechanical fan to v6 fan swap would be worth it? Would I still be able to keep cool even though I’m running a supercharged setup?

I live in Florida, and did the clutch fan delete, with a 180° T-stat. I can't ever remember being over 193° degrees with the Whipple in 95° heat, even with the Intercooler in front of the radiator.
And once you get moving again, it's right back to 186°

You're welcome.

 

[Dan Topp]

Hello and good day everyone.

I wanted to check in and get everyone’s opinions on the build. At the moment, parts have been already ordered and as of this week, the engine is in the machine shop getting the internals done.

Before installing any boost, I dynoed at 300rwhp consistently. That was with my 35” tires, 6” lift, Kooks 1 7/8” long tube headers, S&B cold air intake, Air Raid intake spacer, and custom tune with an HP tuners PCM and TCM. Exhaust is a 3” Y pipe with no Cats, going into a single Mangaflow muffler, and dual stock pipes out the back no resonators.

Boost build is as follows:
-ProCharger D1sc Tuner kit
-Stage 1 Comp cams kit with MDS delete
-Custom Surge tank w/ dual DW400 pumps
-DW 1000cc injectors
-upgraded fuel system lines
-MMX drop in 2618 forged piston/rod kit
-Melling 10452 oil pump

The plan is to also swap over to E85. Once everything is installed and tuned we will be getting a final dyno number to see what the overall change is.

Is there anything else I missed that you guys recommend? I’ve been reading up on Throttle bodies too but am unsure if it would make a difference. What about the Fan delete?

As soon as I got the stock internals back, I’ll be posting that info on the cam / lifter quality in another thread.

Thank you in advance for any advice. I’ll try to answer any questions the best I can.
Hoping to be through with the build by the end of the month.

All I can add is why such a small blower if I was doing a complete build I would use a F1c minimum,why?because it can achieve more boost without over spinning it.

 

[T JAZ]

All I can add is why such a small blower if I was doing a complete build I would use a F1c minimum,why?because it can achieve more boost without over spinning it.

View attachment 205840

Just what the shop had recommended. Will see what they can achieve I’m hoping by the end of the week.

 

[T JAZ]

I live in Florida, and did the clutch fan delete, with a 180° T-stat. I can't ever remember being over 193° degrees with the Whipple in 95° heat, even with the Intercooler in front of the radiator.
And once you get moving again, it's right back to 186°

You're welcome.

Glad to hear! I’ll be removing mine and swapping then as soon as I get it back from the shop.

 

[James OBrien]

All I can add is why such a small blower if I was doing a complete build I would use a F1c minimum,why?because it can achieve more boost without over spinning it.

View attachment 205840

Man, what a good looking setup!

 

[James OBrien]

How much boost were you running? 4-5 range?

I'm running a Torqstorm, maxing out at 7-8 pounds of boost at WOT, dyno'd at 500 WHP

 

[Tach_tech]

I'm running a Torqstorm, maxing out at 7-8 pounds of boost at WOT, dyno'd at 500 WHP

My question was for jagman, he said only at 400whp. Has to be on the low side for boost.

These trucks all consistently make about 500whp at 7-8psi which is what you’re making and what mine makes as well, so he must only be running like 5psi.

 

[T JAZ]

My question was for jagman, he said only at 400whp. Has to be on the low side for boost.

These trucks all consistently make about 500whp at 7-8psi which is what you’re making and what mine makes as well, so he must only be running like 5psi.

From what I discussed with my shop, the plan is to do around 10-12psi. We can see how it changes.

How is your truck after boosting? Im about a month in waiting atm and Im pretty excited haha.

 

[Tach_tech]

From what I discussed with my shop, the plan is to do around 10-12psi. We can see how it changes.

How is your truck after boosting? Im about a month in waiting atm and Im pretty excited haha.

First engine put a rod through the block due to a bad tune. Since then though it’s great.

My only minor gripe is the vacuum actuated bypass valve. It makes for some undesirable drive ability issues but that’s just the nature of that kind of bypass. You can sometimes get into boost when you don’t want to and will kind of bog the engine. Mainly when it’s cold and light to medium throttle all of a sudden it can make a few lbs of boost but you’re not near full throttle so it pulls timing and bogs. The factory transmission shift schedules also don’t help this since it doesn’t like to hold gears very long before upshift and locks up the converter in any gear.

Eventually I’d like to get the smooth boost setup with is an electronic bypass valve you can tune how you want it to operate.

 

[James OBrien]

First engine put a rod through the block due to a bad tune. Since then though it’s great.

My only minor gripe is the vacuum actuated bypass valve. It makes for some undesirable drive ability issues but that’s just the nature of that kind of bypass. You can sometimes get into boost when you don’t want to and will kind of bog the engine. Mainly when it’s cold and light to medium throttle all of a sudden it can make a few lbs of boost but you’re not near full throttle so it pulls timing and bogs. The factory transmission shift schedules also don’t help this since it doesn’t like to hold gears very long before upshift and locks up the converter in any gear.

Eventually I’d like to get the smooth boost setup with is an electronic bypass valve you can tune how you want it to operate.

Funny you should mention that, I'm want to replace mine for the same reason. The bypass valve that comes with the torqstorm is buggy. It chatters at idle with a load sometimes at stoplights, almost sounds like a rod knocking, and acts funny in certain partially loaded situations. Plus it's a goofy size, I'm going to try the same thing when I get my new shop setup and have some time to tinker again.

 

[T JAZ]

Any idea if the clutch fan delete and replace with a v6 fan would be worth while in a boosted setup like mine?

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Any idea if the clutch fan delete and replace with a v6 fan would be worth while in a boosted setup like mine?

Absolutely! Freeing up anything spinning on the crank will benefit your supercharger setup.

 

[T JAZ]

Absolutely! Freeing up anything spinning on the crank will benefit your supercharger setup.

I went ahead and ordered that v6 fan. Is the 180 stat also needed or can I live in my stock one?

 

[T JAZ]

Anyone know how much an exhaust setup impacts boosted builds? I was speaking to my shop about having a 304 stainless true dual 3” exhaust setup installed but would be nearly 2000$.

Is it worth while to switch if I currently just have a 3” Y pipe going into a single 3” in, dual 2.25” out and no resonators?

 

[bran101010]

At that price you can build your own for at least half the price, if not cheaper.

 

[T JAZ]

At that price you can build your own for at least half the price, if not cheaper.

From what I was told it would be custom made.

 

[Tim Garceau]

You'll need colder plugs too if that hasn't been mentioned. Wouldn't worry about exhaust as you can get an electric cutout for $50 and just dump after the y-pipe or after each header collector.

You have a wideband? i just put in a glowshift with Bosch 4.9 and they make a dual gauge to monitor both banks from single unit if you're getting into serious territory.

Not that dynos matter, but bone stock 5.7s in trucks make ~320 whp with the 8 speed and 3.92s.

 

[T JAZ]

You'll need colder plugs too if that hasn't been mentioned. Wouldn't worry about exhaust as you can get an electric cutout for $50 and just dump after the y-pipe or after each header collector.

You have a wideband? i just put in a glowshift with Bosch 4.9 and they make a dual gauge to monitor both banks from single unit if you're getting into serious territory.

Not that dynos matter, but bone stock 5.7s in trucks make ~320 whp with the 8 speed and 3.92s.

After the y pipe I do already have a QTP cutout.
What do you mean by colder plugs?

with my truck as it was I was making 300rwhp on dyno. That’s with 3.92s and 8 speed as well.

I don’t have any gauges or monitors yet.