Do you use anti seize or impact drill on your lug nuts

Anti Seize or Impact Drill on lug nuts?

  • I Do you use Anti Seize on Lugs!

    Votes: 36 24.8%
  • I Do you use an Impact Drill on Lugs!

    Votes: 52 35.9%
  • I Do you use BOTH AS & ID on lug nuts!

    Votes: 22 15.2%
  • No way I don't use either on my lug nuts!

    Votes: 39 26.9%
  • Shops do all my work at the tire and lugs

    Votes: 9 6.2%
  • I would use anti seize in salt belt but not needed in my location

    Votes: 5 3.4%
  • I feel very strongly about my choice

    Votes: 32 22.1%
  • I haven't put much thought into this

    Votes: 15 10.3%

  • Total voters
    145

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ibike

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You need to change your poll about IMPACT Drill.
OK to remove Lung Nuts
NOT OK start nut on screw - must be by hand.
OK to tighten nuts with IMPACT but MUST use Torque Wrench also
What kind of IDIOT starts a lug nut with an impact? You always get them started by hand!
 

Dinky

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What kind of IDIOT starts a lug nut with an impact? You always get them started by hand!

Lmao my buddy owns a small shop. He works with discount tire and replaces wheel studs for them. He does this on 1-6 vehicles a week. There is a reason to check all your lugs for torque after you have a shop do it.
 

Wild one

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The best place for anti seize if you don’t have your tires on and off is on contact surfaces between the hubs (ferrous) and aluminum wheels.It’s a problem ive seen and brings out the electrician side of me.
I never quite put electrician and electrolysis together,but i guess it works,both deal with an electrical charge,lol
 

indept

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so is that the consensus on which torque limiter to use? 130ft pounds?
I wouldn't go with that to start, use 5-10 ft lbs under rated then check with torque wrench. Torque sticks could be off by 10 ft lbs either way so finish with a torque wrench. They work by twisting slightly when you get to the torque absorbing the impact instead of tightening more but the final value can change depending on the impact wrench used.
 

mdc1990zr1

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So it wasn't actually the anti-seize then at all,it was the fact he hadn't tightened the lug nuts properly, but you decided to blame the anti-seize instead of a properly tightened wheel. Torque wrenches are still a fairly rare tool in alot of peoples tool boxes,most people are lucky if they even have a 4 way wrench,and they're still changing tires on the side of the road,with very few issues.You put the anti-seize on the threads not on the face of the nut or it's cone,and you won't have any issues with a wheel falling off if it's properly torqued.BTW you won't find many mechanics using a torque wrench on plugs,most just run them in till they're tight.Using a torque wrench takes time,and most mechanics aren't wasting that time,going to get their torque wrench,looking up the proper torque/adjusting their torque wrench to the proper torque,then walking back over to the vehicle and going over the plugs with a torque wrench,so i'd lay odds 90% of plugs done in a shop are run in till their tight then called good
 

mdc1990zr1

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So it wasn't actually the anti-seize then at all,it was the fact he hadn't tightened the lug nuts properly, but you decided to blame the anti-seize instead of a properly tightened wheel. Torque wrenches are still a fairly rare tool in alot of peoples tool boxes,most people are lucky if they even have a 4 way wrench,and they're still changing tires on the side of the road,with very few issues.You put the anti-seize on the threads not on the face of the nut or it's cone,and you won't have any issues with a wheel falling off if it's properly torqued.BTW you won't find many mechanics using a torque wrench on plugs,most just run them in till they're tight.Using a torque wrench takes time,and most mechanics aren't wasting that time,going to get their torque wrench,looking up the proper torque/adjusting their torque wrench to the proper torque,then walking back over to the vehicle and going over the plugs with a torque wrench,so i'd lay odds 90% of plugs done in a shop are run in till their tight then called good
It looks like someone is trying to argue. You can never obtain the proper torque with a lubricant on the threads. If lubricant is used on the threads, there will not be enough friction in/of the threads to maintain the final torque value. I'm not trying to pass judgement on using or not using a torque wrench on spark plugs, I'm just trying to illustrate that certain manufactures out there point out that there is a difference in torque values when it is applied to the threads. By tightening the lug nuts as tight as you can, could never get the proper stretch(torque) initially and that torque, whatever it may be since it was never measured, has no ability to be maintained as long as the anti-seize in on the lugs. If you want to use anti-seize on the face of the nut or washer (if applicable) should need no accounting for in the final torquing of the lug nuts. I was not there, but knowing what I know now, I'm sure anti-seize was lathered all over the threads and then some. When my buddy uses anti-seize, paint, changes oil etc. everything is everywhere. You know the expression: anti-seize is good and more anti-seize is gooder.
 

mdc1990zr1

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I never quite put electrician and electrolysis together,but i guess it works,both deal with an electrical charge,lol
Its called galvonic corrosion. Some call it galvonic rust. It happens when two dissimilar metals are put together. For example, when you screw a ferrous(metal) bolt into an aluminum thread, they can seize to each other. Some call it rust, some call it weld. A light coating of anti-seize or thread compound will insulate the two metals from each other. It is essentially a small charge, battery some might say. It is along the lines of anodes used on a boat motor. Don't want to get into a lengthy conversation here, but the dissimilar metals create a flow of electrons.
 

Wild one

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Its called galvonic corrosion. Some call it galvonic rust. It happens when two dissimilar metals are put together. For example, when you screw a ferrous(metal) bolt into an aluminum thread, they can seize to each other. Some call it rust, some call it weld. A light coating of anti-seize or thread compound will insulate the two metals from each other. It is essentially a small charge, battery some might say. It is along the lines of anodes used on a boat motor. Don't want to get into a lengthy conversation here, but the dissimilar metals create a flow of electrons.
 

indept

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Maybe the correct thing is don't put anything on the threads BUT do wire brush the threads on the nut & stud to assure there's no corrosion which will cause you to undertighten your lugs since that will cause resistance to tightening. Clean & dry like a bad joke.
 

GTyankee

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before 2003, i always did my own tire work
I used to start my lugs by hand & then i used a 4 way speed wrench, i have broken a few studs when tightening the lug nuts, i figured the studs had been stretched too many times.

On State owned equipment, in 33 years, i very seldom had to do tire work, the State had Tire Services & they sent a tire truck out.

821G-CaseFullSize-WheelLoaders_05_750X411.jpg
 
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Burla

Burla

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At this point I'm gonna call it about even, a little less people use AS over the popular choice Impact drill, and about half use neither. Like most of you that impact pays for itself on lugs, but I'm old and every think crinks for my heads to toes literally, it is if I becoming frozen, lol. I was glad for the responses, gonna get me one of those 1/2 torque bits so I feel a little better about tightening with the impact.
 

Wild one

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At this point I'm gonna call it about even, a little less people use AS over the popular choice Impact drill, and about half use neither. Like most of you that impact pays for itself on lugs, but I'm old and every think crinks for my heads to toes literally, it is if I becoming frozen, lol. I was glad for the responses, gonna get me one of those 1/2 torque bits so I feel a little better about tightening with the impact.
Very few guys ever have their torque wrenches calibrated Mike.If your torque wrench hasn't been calibrated in awhile,you might want to send it off to be calibrated too


There's also a video with this one that's worth watching if you decide to home calibrate your torque wrench



 
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Mister Luck

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These are examples of common lubricants and compounds used on mechanical fasteners the values shown are multiplied to known torque specifications that are newton foot pounds. By multiplying the two values together the specific torque applied is reduced .


Silver grade anti-seize x 0.90


N-1000@ anti-seize x 0.85


WD-40@, light weight oil x 0.80


Motor oil (SAE 40W) x 0.75


N-5000® anti-seize x 0.75


Graphite x 0.70


Wax (extreme pressure) x 0.50


Premier Thread-Eze® 0.50


[Moly-Cote® (molvbdenum disulphide) x 0.45


Never-sieze® x 0.45



Anti-Sieze or lubricants on threads for assembly is normal practice ,
but for components that are unsprung , fixed ,dynamic and stress related,

…. instead of lubricants it’s better just to inspect and pre clean their threads to help alleviate any previous galling that contaminates and prevents proper thread contact between metal to metal surfaces that looks similar to rusted metal.

Because fastener torque values are critical the clamping force applied needs to be measured accurately to specifications approved by the OEM, if the OEM doesn’t require or specify a lubricant or adhesive it is in your best interest not to use one.

I will only use an impact driver to remove wheel lugs and after throughly cleaning lugs and studs I can hand thread each lug on each wheel stud and use a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and ratcheting torque wrench to tighten them in sequence and specification.
 
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HEMIMANN

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Very few guys ever have their torque wrenches calibrated Mike.If your torque wrench hasn't been calibrated in awhile,you might want to send it off to be calibrated too


There's also a video with this one that's worth watching if you decide to home calibrate your torque wrench




Yeah, ISO required recalibrating annually, at a minimum of all plant precision tools.

But - they were used daily and frequently. I only use my home shop tools sporadically, so haven't gone to the inconvenience of recalibrating.

Hell, we can barely get routine maintenance supplies these days much less sending out our expensive tools.
Call me justifiably paranoid via personal experience.
 

smittyd174

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I use an impact and torque by hand to spec. Keep the threads clean , if required ,run a tap in the nut to clean the threads .
Here's one that nobody mentioned , while the tire is off , remove rotor , wire brush inside face of rotor and hub face . Coat with anti size and reassemble. The agony this will save you down the road is amazing . A little anti sieze where the rim touches the rotor is also a good trick .
Just never get it on the face of the rotors .
 

Mister Luck

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I use an impact and torque by hand to spec. Keep the threads clean , if required ,run a tap in the nut to clean the threads .
Here's one that nobody mentioned , while the tire is off , remove rotor , wire brush inside face of rotor and hub face . Coat with anti size and reassemble. The agony this will save you down the road is amazing . A little anti sieze where the rim touches the rotor is also a good trick .
Just never get it on the face of the rotors .
You probably meant to write thread chaser not tap, A tap cuts threads a thread chaser cleans them.
 

Wild one

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Yeah, ISO required recalibrating annually, at a minimum of all plant precision tools.

But - they were used daily and frequently. I only use my home shop tools sporadically, so haven't gone to the inconvenience of recalibrating.

Hell, we can barely get routine maintenance supplies these days much less sending out our expensive tools.
Call me justifiably paranoid via personal experience.
If you have a known weight,you can come pretty close with a home calibration. There's lots of guys out there,that are DIY'ers that bought a torque wrench 20 years ago,and have never had it calibrated since,and think that just because they're using it to torque bolts/nuts etc. ,they're actually torquing to the proper spec,those are the guys that need to at least do a home calibration if they aren't wanting to send it off.
 
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