Am I the only one with warped rear rotors at 14K miles?

Some how my rear rotors are warped in only 14K miles, any ones else have issues with warped rear rotors?

I am on he hook as they are not covered under warranty and I damn sure will not be using OE parts to fix this.

I got 66k out of my factory brakes ... Then I thought I’d be cool and get drilled and slotted with new pads ... Worst mistake of my trucks life ... They were noisy and only got 22k out of them ... Just this week I put R1 Concept OE style rotors with Centric Quietstop Extended Wear pads ... So far so good ... Fingers crossed


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Over the years on forums I have heard of this.

I had an occasional squeak from the brakes on my 2017 since I bought it this year with 12K miles on it. I finally got around to disassembling and cleaning the rear brakes on it yesterday at 21K miles. It's a good thing I did. The pad slides were very gunked up and the caliper pin lube not so slippery. The inside pads were starting to wear funny. I even went so far as to pull the rear rotors and never-seize between the hub and rotor so they come off easier next time. Took some doing to get one of them off without damaging it.

I did tear a caliper pin bushing in the process, so be careful with them. They go all the way through the caliper. Luckily Napa had a replacement for me. Noise is gone, but I still need to do the fronts.. Rust belt sucks.

From new on my 2016 I had an issue with a grinding sound\feeling on mine but only just the second
before coming to a complete stop and then again just as I released the brakes......weird. After I went
to brakes plus and they told me it was normal, I said the hell with it, replaced the front pads with some
Bosch ceramics, and the issue completely disappeared.

Just get the rotors machined. Not unheard of for the rear rotors to warp at somewhat low mileage but it’s not something seen on a regular basis either.

I will let you know in 2 years when I hit 14,000 miles lol

One of the key contributors to rotor warpage is not a material deficiency issue. Rather, it's overtorqued wheels.

If the tire shops or dealers are just hammering on the wheels with sustained operation, they can be exerting anywhere from 425 lb/ft to over 900 lb/ft! Your rotors won't survive that.

It's not the rotor, it's the person using the impact wrench.

MADDOG said:

One of the key contributors to rotor warpage is not a material deficiency issue. Rather, it's overtorqued wheels.

If the tire shops or dealers are just hammering on the wheels with sustained operation, they can be exerting anywhere from 425 lb/ft to over 900 lb/ft! Your rotors won't survive that.

It's not the rotor, it's the person using the impact wrench.

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Agreed. My wife’s Lexus had the front rotors destroyed by the knuckleheads at Discount Tire. Now I only let them put the lug nuts on with a star tire iron and torque them by hand.

My brother pulls the truck out in their driveway after they use the impact wrench and loosens and retightens by hand. Just to send a message... [emoji16][emoji16]


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Tach_tech said:

Just get the rotors machined. Not unheard of for the rear rotors to warp at somewhat low mileage but it’s not something seen on a regular basis either.

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I would just replace the rotors with after market.

tfeni52355 said:

Agreed. My wife’s Lexus had the front rotors destroyed by the knuckleheads at Discount Tire. Now I only let them put the lug nuts on with a star tire iron and torque them by hand.

My brother pulls the truck out in their driveway after they use the impact wrench and loosens and retightens by hand. Just to send a message... [emoji16][emoji16]


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Was not from that, I always use a torque wrench at 110ftlbs, unless the dealer did it, but they have not touched it in well over a year.

Sorry to hear, sounds like a good time to upgrade to R1 Concepts Geomet Rotors and Centric Semi-quiet pads! Let us know if you would like a quote!

Nick@GotExhaust said:

Sorry to hear, sounds like a good time to upgrade to R1 Concepts Geomet Rotors and Centric Semi-quiet pads! Let us know if you would like a quote!

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Are those drilled and slotted rotors? If so, how much for just the rotors sir??

meedom said:

Are those drilled and slotted rotors? If so, how much for just the rotors sir??

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What ever you would like. We can do drilled and slotted, slotted, plain rotors.

Please send me a message with your vehicle info and what setup you are looking for and I'll get you quoted as soon as I get back in the office!

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Nick@GotExhaust said:

Sorry to hear, sounds like a good time to upgrade to R1 Concepts Geomet Rotors and Centric Semi-quiet pads! Let us know if you would like a quote!

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Ugh I’m on the fence for a set of drilled and slotted with new pads. My current oem ones a just squealing every time I come to a stop. It’s embarrassing and annoying and I only have 7K on my truck

16WhiteQC said:

Was not from that, I always use a torque wrench at 110ftlbs, unless the dealer did it, but they have not touched it in well over a year.

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Doesn't the owners manual call for 140 lb/ft? That seems to be the standard wheel torque for the RAM and GM's 1/2 ton trucks for many years now. I've never had any problems with the rears and I always get the factory rotors turned until its no longer safe to do so.

Chief_6.7 said:

Ugh I’m on the fence for a set of drilled and slotted with new pads. My current oem ones a just squealing every time I come to a stop. It’s embarrassing and annoying and I only have 7K on my truck

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wow, sorry to hear with so little miles they are already squealing. IF your pads still have decent meat on them you can take the brakes apart clean it all up, lube the slide pins and the back of the pads and put it back together and see if it helps. OR you can use it as an excuse to upgrade to not only a better performing setup but better looking as well!

Rotors just do not warp by themselves, there is usually an external problem of either pads/brake drag and/or user induced like wheel over torquing and running through high water or splash when hot.

While better quality aftermarket rotors can minimize reoccurence, it may not solve it if you do not know why they are warping in the first place

Nick@GotExhaust said:

wow, sorry to hear with so little miles they are already squealing. IF your pads still have decent meat on them you can take the brakes apart clean it all up, lube the slide pins and the back of the pads and put it back together and see if it helps. OR you can use it as an excuse to upgrade to not only a better performing setup but better looking as well!

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Send me a quote either way shipped to 79938

2017 Ram 1500 5.7 4x4

Hootbro said:

Rotors just do not warp by themselves, there is usually an external problem of either pads/brake drag and/or user induced like wheel over torquing and running through high water or splash when hot.

While better quality aftermarket rotors can minimize reoccurence, it may not solve it if you do not know why they are warping in the first place

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As I understand it, it's not actually "warping". If you park your truck with very hot rotors the spot where the pad rests doesn't cool at the same rate as the rest of the rotor, or something like that. The brake pad material that is deposited on the rotor during braking isn't distributed evenly. Here is a blurb from the web about ways to keep this from happening.

There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.