What aftermarket U-Joints did you all go with?

Victor Brill · Mar 8, 2022

Hello everyone,

Looking to replace my U-Joints on a 2011 Ram 1500. Curious what everyone here ended up using.

Looking on Rockauto and they have a lot of options. Seems like the Moog 331 is the common one and I will probably go with that. My question would be, do people prefer the Moog or Dana Spicer? Also, there are a ton of Heavy Duty options that aren't much more expensive but wondering if they would be worth it( I don't tow/haul/off-road that often.)

Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: Link for reference to what I am looking at.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ram,2011,1500,5.7l+v8,1447844,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392

Jeepwalker · Mar 8, 2022

Are you talking rear driveshaft? Front? Any specific 'needs'?

I usually go with Spicer. Brute Force is real good. There's PDQ (Neapco) that I've used a number of times. Whatever NAPA sources for their premium u-joints seem real good, and I've installed many of them over the decades, with no problems at all. SKF has U-joints but I haven't used (wouldn't be afraid to). I can't say with Moog. Moog these days you have to be a little careful with: they have different grades on suspension products from economy (import) to premium (usually USA-made), so there might be a difference between their low and high grade parts if that applies to their u-joints. I certainly wouldn't have a problem going with a Moog premium U-joint (do they actually make them or repackage somebody elses???). And even if it's import, that doesn't necessarily mean it's low quality. Could be made in Mexico/Taiwan/Canada by an OEM supplier (or not! lol). And ..China sells more cars/trucks than in the USA. OTOH, I know guys who always buy the cheapest u-joints, and have for decades, and as far as I know they've never had any failures (for DD use, not rock crawling). But a couple guys isn't much of a sampling he he.

But overall, Spicer for me. They're usually not much more expensive if at all. AFAIK they don't really have an el-cheapo import line that I'm aware of so I trust their quality. Theres a farm & barn that sells PDQ (Proven Drivetrain Quality) and I sometimes buy them. Most mfgrs offer regular and HD options for the same application. Often the solid-core non-greasable joints are stronger ...but non greasable (if you ever do it). If you have a driveline shop near you, often they have the best prices and usually what you need right there on the shelf. If all you need is a U-joint, a driveline shop would be cheaper than paying RockAuto shipping.

Also one ought to consider yer needs. DD use isn't very demanding. But larger tires, hauling, racing, lot of towing, water crossings, etc, you want a proven product for sure. Will you actually grease them from time to time? Given the current 'invasion' situation ...I'm trying to stick to USA-made products.

Jeepwalker · Mar 9, 2022

One way a guy can extend the life of exising u-joints is every 2 or 3 years as part of your comprehensive maintenance, ....remove the driveshaft's (at least the pinion end) and rotate the joint fully throughout it's range of motion, and rotate the caps. That distributes the grease. Pull off the caps and inspect the grease (w/o getting any dirt inside). If need be, add a little more like-type grease. If the joint is non-greaseable but drilled-through a guy can put extra grease in the caps and force grease throughout the joint by squeezing the caps in with a c-clamp. And, if the trunnion surfaces appear worn/grooved/rusted/etc, obviously replace the joint. But if you move the joint throughout it's range and grease them periodically, you might never need to replace your u-joints.

Note: Bear in mind different greases use different types of soaps so you NEVER want to mix different grease types, i.e. white lithium grease with a dark grease, or blond grease, etc. That can cause the entire grease to become watery and completely loose lubricity. Which would be worse than if you'd just left it alone.

GTyankee · Mar 9, 2022

If the U-Joint or any part using bearings is sold at any normal Auto Parts store, O'Reillys, Advance, Pep Boys, Worldwide, Autozone, etc.
They are made with so much slop in clearances, that they are already 20% wore out, compared a quality part that is sold at places like King Bearings

Where to buy - King Bearings - Engine Bearing specialist

High quality bearings

www.kingbearings.com

Rlaf75 · Mar 9, 2022

At the shop I used to work at I always used Neapco joints. Never had a problem with them

Victor Brill · Mar 9, 2022

Jeepwalker said:
Are you talking rear driveshaft? Front? Any specific 'needs'?

I usually go with Spicer. Brute Force is real good. There's PDQ (Neapco) that I've used a number of times. Whatever NAPA sources for their premium u-joints seem real good, and I've installed many of them over the decades, with no problems at all. SKF has U-joints but I haven't used (wouldn't be afraid to). I can't say with Moog. Moog these days you have to be a little careful with: they have different grades on suspension products from economy (import) to premium (usually USA-made), so there might be a difference between their low and high grade parts if that applies to their u-joints. I certainly wouldn't have a problem going with a Moog premium U-joint (do they actually make them or repackage somebody elses???). And even if it's import, that doesn't necessarily mean it's low quality. Could be made in Mexico/Taiwan/Canada by an OEM supplier (or not! lol). And ..China sells more cars/trucks than in the USA. OTOH, I know guys who always buy the cheapest u-joints, and have for decades, and as far as I know they've never had any failures (for DD use, not rock crawling). But a couple guys isn't much of a sampling he he.

But overall, Spicer for me. They're usually not much more expensive if at all. AFAIK they don't really have an el-cheapo import line that I'm aware of so I trust their quality. Theres a farm & barn that sells PDQ (Proven Drivetrain Quality) and I sometimes buy them. Most mfgrs offer regular and HD options for the same application. Often the solid-core non-greasable joints are stronger ...but non greasable (if you ever do it). If you have a driveline shop near you, often they have the best prices and usually what you need right there on the shelf. If all you need is a U-joint, a driveline shop would be cheaper than paying RockAuto shipping.

Also one ought to consider yer needs. DD use isn't very demanding. But larger tires, hauling, racing, lot of towing, water crossings, etc, you want a proven product for sure. Will you actually grease them from time to time? Given the current 'invasion' situation ...I'm trying to stick to USA-made products.

I am replacing both front and rear which appears to be the same part # for both. Nothing specific, just a DD that doesn't do much towing or off-roading.

Yea, I was looking at the Spicer since I hear good things about Dana when it comes to drivetrain and differential stuff. May go with that, a lot of things are in the same price range so I assume the quality is similar. Was just curious if I should go with the haevy duty ones since the price is same as the DD ones even if I don't really tow/haul or off road very often. Are the heavy duty ones better quality or do they actually change performance compared to the other ones? If I am being honest, I will probably grease them once and probably won't again.

Appreciate the response.

zogg · Mar 9, 2022

I’ve always used Moog suspension parts forever and never had any issues.

Victor Brill · Mar 9, 2022

zogg said:
I’ve always used Moog suspension parts forever and never had any issues.

Yea, I have used a lot of Moog parts as well and never had an issue.

I guess more so than brand, my main question would be do I spring for the heavy duty ones on Rockauto since they are basically the same price. Assuming the heavy duty one will be slightly more durbable, does it perform better or any different than the regular daily driver one. I also know its just a u-joint so probably won't be that noticeable either way but wanted a couple opinions before I ordered new ones.

crazykid1994 · Mar 9, 2022

I may be the odd one out but I like to stick to oem when possible if the part lasted me a long time and worked to my liking. Some oem parts should be held to a higher standard than some aftermarket companies produce.

Okie345 · Mar 10, 2022

I put 5 moog u joints in a f250 instead of 3 due to seizing up from not enough grease. they were advertised as greasable but they didn't come with a zerk fitting. Replaced 3 at once then had to remove after 10k miles.

JPT · Mar 10, 2022

By design, if a u-joint is greaseable, it is weaker (it is no longer is solid). Most people will never need to change u-joints a second time (unless you have driveline angle issues), so I see no reason to get greaseable. Back from my jeep days, I'm a huge fan of spicer u-joints, and if they use C-clips, I'm a fan of grinding the driveshaft/axleshaft to accept full circle clips (if possible).

DILLIGAF · Mar 10, 2022

DANA 51350X Universal Joint | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Victor Brill · Mar 10, 2022

DILLIGAF said:
DANA 51350X Universal Joint | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Thank you, don't mind spending a little more for a better quality one and as mentioned above, looking like I want to go with the non-greaseable since if I am being honest with myself, I probably won't ever grease them.

Fergusontd · Mar 15, 2022

When or at what point do you replace u-joints, had my '01 for 16 years @ 78k never replaced or checked u-joints. COMMENTS PLEASE!

Jeepwalker · Mar 15, 2022

When or at what point do you replace u-joints, had my '01 for 16 years @ 78k never replaced or checked u-joints. COMMENTS PLEASE!

I would say any time between 80-100k if you're under there changing diff/xfer fluid ...or just have some spare time during a good day and want to get the tools out, I would remove the rear of the driveshaft (just leave front in the tranny), and remove the caps and have a look. Obviously don't get a single spec of dust inside (brush/wash off u-joint to clean whatever you need to do -- before removing caps). Then reinstall and rotate the caps and reinstall the ds if all looks good. The rear joint is the one that seems to wear the most. bc they're exposed to more elements.

Octane · Mar 24, 2022

I've heard some speak of Moog quality issues.I have used Moog parts for 45 years and never had an issue.I've never rockcrawled off road but I have j*e*r*k*e*d* them around on the streets a lot.Are there better parts? Maybe but I never gave it much thought as the prices were always right with Moog

Soileau · Mar 25, 2022

crazykid1994 said:
I may be the odd one out but I like to stick to oem when possible if the part lasted me a long time and worked to my liking. Some oem parts should be held to a higher standard than some aftermarket companies produce.

I thought that way not long ago but recently I found out that there are some OEM parts that go out too frequently and on way too many vehicles such as Rams fuel level sensors. Mine just went out and Learned from these forums that where the OEM sensor hangs off the pump its all plastic parts but you can find aftermarket that are metal parts.

What aftermarket U-Joints did you all go with?

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