Highest towing capacity for the 5.7

tron67j · Jan 23, 2024

Honestly, if the main consideration is the payload capacity, then a 1500 should not be an option being considered. There is no such thing as a 1500 is okay if you overload it only a couple times a year. If you can only afford one truck and not knowing the PC is make or break, then a gas 2500 non-PW or a 3500 is a must.

Here is why: I figure a 1500 having right around 1800 pounds of payload capacity on average. For traveling with 3 people and a dog I have 500 pounds (cooler, gaming gear, iPad, other travel stuff). So now I am at 1300 pounds payload capacity. Now subtract 150 lbs for bed cover. 75 pounds running board, 75 pounds hitch with bars, and now the PC is 1000. With nothing in bed that translates to a trailer that (properly loaded and balanced) is (trailer tongue weight = 1000 / .15) a maximum of 6700 pounds. That is at the edge of everything, and not ideal so plan on a trailer that is 5300 pounds to give you a 20% variance to cover the extra stuff you never expect to add up so fast. And remember, trailer weight plates are always underreporting the actual trailer weight as they don't always include batteries, propane tanks, dealer accessories like awnings so if one is buying a 1500 it might be better to be at 5000. The beer, food, clothing, camp chairs, bikes, tents, outdoor rugs, grill, extension cords, hoses, leveling blocks, screen room, think you get the idea, all just push people into a 2500. And they are fine for daily drivers, not spongy like a 1500 but one is made for work and one is made to cruise. No offense to 1500 owners, but when payload capacity keeps coming up as the top issue when buying, probably not a good option.

KeithP · Jan 23, 2024

suicideking said:
Is that info available online? I'm trying to figure these things out before I even test drive it. If the 'real' number is on the door, that makes research difficult.

Unfortunately, the real number is on the door pillar. If you’ve found a truck you’re interested in online; I’d call the dealership, tell the sales rep what your intentions and needs are and ask them to text you a pic of the door sticker with the weights on it. They’ll cooperate if they think they have any chance at a sale. If they don’t cooperate they’re not someone you want to work with anyway.

dhay13 · Jan 23, 2024

I pay more attention to GRAWR. I believe the max on your truck is 3900lbs. As long as you are under GCWR and GRAWR I'd be comfortable towing it. That said, you will likely be around 13,000lbs gross. Not sure what your GCWR is but you will likely be close. Being this close to your limits it will be crucial getting your weight distribution set up properly. That will require a few trips to the CAT scale and some adjustments to your WDH and possibly shifting your load a little.

wvfarrier · Jan 24, 2024

Why not go with a gooseneck? It centers the weight better

2003F350 · Jan 24, 2024

suicideking said:
I'm considering a RAM 1500. It would be a crew cab, short bed, 5.7 V8 engine.

The most common gear ratio is the 3.21 which will be 8120lbs. I would need 3.92 gears to get the higher capacity of 11,220.

The only model I've found that consistently comes with the 3.92 gears is the Rebel. Are there any other models that usually come with the 3.92 gears? It's been frustrating searching online because you can't specify the gears, just have to view the window sticker.

I didn't see it pointed out, but I gather you're planning on pulling a trailer with some decent weight to it. In which case I would suggest ANY 2500+ truck. This will allow you to get some options in your truck instead of it being a bare-bones truck.

There are only a couple configurations AT MOST of the 1500 that will get you to the higher towing capacity, and a Rebel certainly isn't one of them.

To get to the 11k+ tow rating, you likely have to have a 2WD, regular cab, long box, 5.7 Tradesman with NO other options but the towing package (so 3.92 gears, ITBC, etc etc.). Anything short of that and you WILL run out of payload LONG before you reach your max towing capacity (due to tongue weight).

Is that really the truck you want? Or would you rather spend a little more $$, get a few options, and have a truck that will handle that trailer weight with plenty of room to spare? Personally I err on the side of caution and get the bigger truck - I've never owned less than a 2500, because I don't want to run out of wiggle room.

2wheelsor4 · Jan 24, 2024

With my 1500 we towed our 24BHS, about 27' long over all, all over just fine and it probably weighted 6000 lbs. I towed our new 29BHS, 35' end to end, a time or two that weighed pretty close to 9000 lbs and it SUCKED. It had nothing to do with power, it was all about the stability of the 1500 with that kind of weight hanging off the back. I guarantee that I was overweight and the truck let me know it, that is why I now own a 2500. With the factory air suspension and WDH everything looked good but it was a stressful drive. If you are stressing about towing and/or payload, just buy the bigger truck. I love my 2023 6.4 Rebel!

suicideking · Jan 24, 2024

Jas34 said:
To add to my post above, here's a link to a towing and payload chart for 2023's:

https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBCPJWcOaypPZ%0A

If you look at a 4wd spec'ed like what you want, both the .321 and .392 trucks have the same payload capacity at 1460 lbs.

If you figure that the worst case trailer tongue weight would be around 15% of the trailer, then a .321 truck with a "tow" rating of 8090 lbs might have a tongue weight of 1214 lbs, so only 246 lbs of the payload capacity is left for people, gear and fuel in the truck (and tonneau cover, mods, etc).

If you take the trailer "tow" rating of the .392 truck into consideration, the tongue weight of a 10270 lb trailer it could supposedly tow might be 1541 lbs or already 327 lbs over the gvwr of the truck before you even get in it. A weight distrbution hitch will send some of the tongue weight back to the trailer but not a whole lot.

tron67j said:
Honestly, if the main consideration is the payload capacity, then a 1500 should not be an option being considered. There is no such thing as a 1500 is okay if you overload it only a couple times a year. If you can only afford one truck and not knowing the PC is make or break, then a gas 2500 non-PW or a 3500 is a must.

Here is why: I figure a 1500 having right around 1800 pounds of payload capacity on average. For traveling with 3 people and a dog I have 500 pounds (cooler, gaming gear, iPad, other travel stuff). So now I am at 1300 pounds payload capacity. Now subtract 150 lbs for bed cover. 75 pounds running board, 75 pounds hitch with bars, and now the PC is 1000. With nothing in bed that translates to a trailer that (properly loaded and balanced) is (trailer tongue weight = 1000 / .15) a maximum of 6700 pounds. That is at the edge of everything, and not ideal so plan on a trailer that is 5300 pounds to give you a 20% variance to cover the extra stuff you never expect to add up so fast. And remember, trailer weight plates are always underreporting the actual trailer weight as they don't always include batteries, propane tanks, dealer accessories like awnings so if one is buying a 1500 it might be better to be at 5000. The beer, food, clothing, camp chairs, bikes, tents, outdoor rugs, grill, extension cords, hoses, leveling blocks, screen room, think you get the idea, all just push people into a 2500. And they are fine for daily drivers, not spongy like a 1500 but one is made for work and one is made to cruise. No offense to 1500 owners, but when payload capacity keeps coming up as the top issue when buying, probably not a good option.

2003F350 said:
I didn't see it pointed out, but I gather you're planning on pulling a trailer with some decent weight to it. In which case I would suggest ANY 2500+ truck. This will allow you to get some options in your truck instead of it being a bare-bones truck.

There are only a couple configurations AT MOST of the 1500 that will get you to the higher towing capacity, and a Rebel certainly isn't one of them.

To get to the 11k+ tow rating, you likely have to have a 2WD, regular cab, long box, 5.7 Tradesman with NO other options but the towing package (so 3.92 gears, ITBC, etc etc.). Anything short of that and you WILL run out of payload LONG before you reach your max towing capacity (due to tongue weight).

Is that really the truck you want? Or would you rather spend a little more $$, get a few options, and have a truck that will handle that trailer weight with plenty of room to spare? Personally I err on the side of caution and get the bigger truck - I've never owned less than a 2500, because I don't want to run out of wiggle room.

Definitely good points and why I posted. I want to find out if this is not recommended.

I don't even have the trailer yet, but figure my Jeep is around 5000lbs. The trailer I would get would probably be 18' and not have anything on it (no storage box, etc). So I'm guessing the trailer would weight 2 - 3K lbs.

So if that's not recommended for safety (or not be legal), I would probably still get a half ton truck, just wouldn't plan on getting a trailer and towing with it. I don't think a 2500 would work out money wise, though I will look. Figure this needs to be 99% a DD, gas mileage is a big factor. Will be a crew cab with the short box. I might be able to find one with the 3.92 gears, but looks like most in my price range are 3.21.

EDIT: Looked up gas mileage for a 2500: 12 / 18. So definitely not an option considering the most I would tow would be maybe around 5 times per year.

Tulecreeper · Jan 24, 2024

suicideking said:
Is that info available online? I'm trying to figure these things out before I even test drive it. If the 'real' number is on the door, that makes research difficult.

The base/bare-bones payload capacity numbers are available online but the actual cargo cap as it comes off the assembly line is different for every truck, dependent on what options you add when you order the truck. For example, the bare-bones cargo cap for my truck was actually 4010 pounds. The only options I ordered were the tow hooks, brakes controller, 5th-wheel prep package and spray-in bedliner. Apparently, all of those things together weigh 97 pounds because my door pillar says my payload cap is 3913 pounds.

So, if I had ordered the same truck chassis I did but add bigger tires, an extended cab, a winch, 4-wheel drive, etc., all of that weight gets deducted from that initial 4010 pounds of payload capacity. This is why someone with a Crew Cab Tradesman with all of that only has half my payload cap as all that extra stuff weighs a lot.

Tulecreeper · Jan 24, 2024

suicideking said:
Definitely good points and why I posted. I want to find out if this is not recommended.

I don't even have the trailer yet, but figure my Jeep is around 5000lbs. The trailer I would get would probably be 18' and not have anything on it (no storage box, etc). So I'm guessing the trailer would weight 2 - 3K lbs.

So if that's not recommended for safety (or not be legal), I would probably still get a half ton truck, just wouldn't plan on getting a trailer and towing with it. I don't think a 2500 would work out money wise, though I will look. Figure this needs to be 99% a DD, gas mileage is a big factor. Will be a crew cab with the short box. I might be able to find one with the 3.92 gears, but looks like most in my price range are 3.21.

EDIT: Looked up gas mileage for a 2500: 12 / 18. So definitely not an option considering the most I would tow would be maybe around 5 times per year.

I have pretty close to a bare bones truck, meaning it weighs about as little as possible so should be getting the best mileage, and my all-around average MPG runs between 14 and 14.5. But I live rural and most of my driving is on country roads at 40 MPH, with a couple trips per month to "the city" 30 miles away at 60 MPH. It gets about 25 MPG when I'm out on the highway doing 60 - 65, but that is only 25% of my driving.

JF19Longhorn · Jan 25, 2024

suicideking said:
Definitely good points and why I posted. I want to find out if this is not recommended.

I don't even have the trailer yet, but figure my Jeep is around 5000lbs. The trailer I would get would probably be 18' and not have anything on it (no storage box, etc). So I'm guessing the trailer would weight 2 - 3K lbs.

So if that's not recommended for safety (or not be legal), I would probably still get a half ton truck, just wouldn't plan on getting a trailer and towing with it. I don't think a 2500 would work out money wise, though I will look. Figure this needs to be 99% a DD, gas mileage is a big factor. Will be a crew cab with the short box. I might be able to find one with the 3.92 gears, but looks like most in my price range are 3.21.

EDIT: Looked up gas mileage for a 2500: 12 / 18. So definitely not an option considering the most I would tow would be maybe around 5 times per year.

Don't believe the 1500 will get much better fuel mileage.. if you checkout driving test/reviews and fuel tracking sites, like Fuelly, the 1500 Hemi is getting around 15-16 mpg, empty. The window stickers lie.

FWIW: my lifetime (62k miles) of mostly highway and back country road driving is mid/high 15's.. I've tracked just about every tank in the Fuelly app. 2019 Hemi with the Etrq & 3.92s.

Jerrybob · Jan 25, 2024

DILLIGAF said:
1500s are grocery getters, if you're going to actually tow get a 2500 with a 6.4L.

They do carry a lot of groceries....plus.....they tow just fine......just depends what you're towing. I knew a little guy that had a 2500......kinda cute how he climbed up into his big truck.....his wife was a big girl and they used to square dance alot.......think they won a couple of contests before her accident......tragic how it all happened.

Ratman6161 · Jan 28, 2024

You will find this posted many other places. But when looking on dealer web sites, they usually post the VIN number. Copy the VIN from the dealer web site and paste it into the Ram web site below.

Ram Towing Capacity | Towing & Payload Capacity Guide

Explore the Ram Trucks towing & payload capacity guide. Find information like Ram 1500 towing capacity, Ram 2500 towing capacity, payload specs & more here.

www.ramtrucks.com

netshadoe · Jan 29, 2024

I posted a real world example this past summer.

Post in thread 'Towing help for someone brand new to trucks and towing.'
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/to...-new-to-trucks-and-towing.202121/post-2824422

Hope it helps.

greg mayrhofer · Jan 29, 2024

suicideking said:
I'm considering a RAM 1500. It would be a crew cab, short bed, 5.7 V8 engine.

The most common gear ratio is the 3.21 which will be 8120lbs. I would need 3.92 gears to get the higher capacity of 11,220.

The only model I've found that consistently comes with the 3.92 gears is the Rebel. Are there any other models that usually come with the 3.92 gears? It's been frustrating searching online because you can't specify the gears, just have to view the window sticker.

I have a 2014 dodge ram 1500 outdoorsman and it came with 3.92 rear end gears towing cap is 10500 according to dodges information site, i tow my 31 ft camper (6390 lbs) with no problems I always stay well under the 10500 limit

azaustin · Jan 29, 2024

Google how to calculate payload, towing capacity, and tongue weight. There is quite a bit of information online. Payload and towing capacity are separate things. The tongue weight of your trailer (usually figured as being about 10% of the trailer weight) comes directly off your payload. I have a 2022 Laramie 4 x 4 crew cab 5.7L short bed with 3.92 gears and the 33 gallon tank, which is a must when towing a trailer of any size (remember that gas weighs 6lbs a gallon.) I tow a trailer that weighs 5500-6000+ pounds loaded. As per manufacture’s recommendations, I use a light weight (Andersen) equalizing hitch. Don’t forget the weight of the hitch assembly. I saved about 40lbs changing from a Husky hitch. My truck pulls the trailer extremely well, topping 10-12,000 foot Colorado mountain passes with ease. I got 10-11pg round trip from Flagstaff to Ouray last August. That’’s almost as good as the ‘21 Diesel Rubicon Gladiator I traded in on it. Do some research online as I suggested, and I think you’ll see that you can tow what you’re considering safely. Remember that there is always a little room in the recommended towing specs. One other tip about reducing tongue weight: Check out lithium batteries for your coach. I went to one 100Ah lithium battery from two group 24lead acid batteries. The lithium battery weighs less than one lead acid battery and has a much better draw down curve.

CaptOchs · Jan 29, 2024

suicideking said:
Definitely good points and why I posted. I want to find out if this is not recommended.

I don't even have the trailer yet, but figure my Jeep is around 5000lbs. The trailer I would get would probably be 18' and not have anything on it (no storage box, etc). So I'm guessing the trailer would weight 2 - 3K lbs.

So if that's not recommended for safety (or not be legal), I would probably still get a half ton truck, just wouldn't plan on getting a trailer and towing with it. I don't think a 2500 would work out money wise, though I will look. Figure this needs to be 99% a DD, gas mileage is a big factor. Will be a crew cab with the short box. I might be able to find one with the 3.92 gears, but looks like most in my price range are 3.21.

EDIT: Looked up gas mileage for a 2500: 12 / 18. So definitely not an option considering the most I would tow would be maybe around 5 times per year.

You don't need a 2500. I towed my Charger on a car carrier with my Ford Expedition. It had the 5.4L w/ 3.92. The car weighs just under 4,000. That truck pulled the car just fine. You could feel it back there, but in no way was it struggling. It was a very stable tow.

I never towed it with my RAM, but I do have a large camper. When I replaced the Expedition with my RAM 1500 Big Horn w/3.92 I noticed a huge difference with the camper. The RAM tows the camper so much nicer. So, if towing with an Expedition with a max tow of 8400 pulled that Charger on a car carrier just fine, you should have no problems with the RAM 1500 with the 3.92.

You obviously have a weed out a lot of trucks to ensure you get a truck with the 3.92. I looked at a dozen. If used, take your time and look at them closely. I saw lots with under-carriage rust. One dealer was trying to sell a truck w/ snow tires on it....in June! He refused to put all seasons on it despite it technically being illegal to drive in summer. Many salesmen don't know what "max-tow" entails, so you have to spell it out for them.

Also, you did mention a concern about gas prices. My 3.92 is pretty fuel efficient for a truck as long as I don't speed. I get north of 70 mph and it starts getting thirty. The 3.92 lacks that extra overdrive gear the 3.21 has. If you have a heavy food on your daily commute, you will probably be in that 12/18 range.

Black1500Ram · Jan 29, 2024

Jas34 said:
The rear axle ratio ratio difference won't do a thing for you concerning towing capacity in a half ton Ram. The reason is both trucks will have the same payload capacity (if everything else is the same). The truck will be payload limited regardless of what the manufacturer lists as towing capacity, so your towing capacity is limited by how much tongue weight the truck can handle.

Everyone is pointing you in the right direction. I’m in the same boat as you so I’ll add my 2¢

I have a 2015 express 5.7 cc short bed 4x4 3.92 with the highest tow rating possible. 10,150lbs, payload is 1530lbs and class IV hitch (1000lbs).

My limiting factor in what I tow is the hitch. When I’m towing heavy it’s just me in the truck, no passengers, nothing in the bed, maybe small dog

Going across scales pulling a vehicle, I often run out of hitch first and have learned to tow with a longer trailer or move the vehicle a little back if I can stay in the 10-15% tongue weight. For the weight that length adds to the trailer (3/400lbs) to have room to move the cargo around 2’ is priceless to be able to adjust hitch and tongue weight and stay within the 10-15% rule.

So I say you can do it safely within legal limits but you won’t be able to carry anything other than what you’re towing.

You will want the 3.92 rear end; it just makes grades (up and down) better to handle. Downhill in tow mode and cruise set I don’t creep up in speed. I’ll be running at 4k rpm but it’ll hold it.

Brake controller absolute must as well as wdh.

Fuel mileage sucks with these truck period.
My daily commuting I averaged 15-17 mpg with the stock crappy Goodyear sra tires in city driving <50mph with lights. 2” lift and literally the lightest combination of 17” wheels and AT P rated falken tires and I’m down 2mpg.

This post is getting long in the tooth so I’m happy to answer anything for you if you like via pm or more posts since I’m in your boat, and have an a Mech Eng background. (Lots of good people on here with engineering, chemical backgrounds btw!)

Panduh · Jan 29, 2024

suicideking said:
I'm considering a RAM 1500. It would be a crew cab, short bed, 5.7 V8 engine.

The most common gear ratio is the 3.21 which will be 8120lbs. I would need 3.92 gears to get the higher capacity of 11,220.

The only model I've found that consistently comes with the 3.92 gears is the Rebel. Are there any other models that usually come with the 3.92 gears? It's been frustrating searching online because you can't specify the gears, just have to view the window sticker.

My window sticker. I tow a 6500 lb. trailer with a Centerline WDH, tongue weight 920 lbs. Very stable, plenty of power.

texcwa · Jan 29, 2024

Just flat tow your jeep with a portable brake buddy, cheeper than trailer and problem solved on weight. You can still then load the bed of the truck with whatever else you need.

seadog1272 · Jan 29, 2024

Jas34 said:
To add to my post above, here's a link to a towing and payload chart for 2023's:

https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBCPJWcOaypPZ%0A

If you look at a 4wd spec'ed like what you want, both the .321 and .392 trucks have the same payload capacity at 1460 lbs.

If you figure that the worst case trailer tongue weight would be around 15% of the trailer, then a .321 truck with a "tow" rating of 8090 lbs might have a tongue weight of 1214 lbs, so only 246 lbs of the payload capacity is left for people, gear and fuel in the truck (and tonneau cover, mods, etc).

If you take the trailer "tow" rating of the .392 truck into consideration, the tongue weight of a 10270 lb trailer it could supposedly tow might be 1541 lbs or already 327 lbs over the gvwr of the truck before you even get in it. A weight distrbution hitch will send some of the tongue weight back to the trailer but not a whole lot.

You might add that that link is for the Classic Model 1500 and not the new DT model 1500

Highest towing capacity for the 5.7

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