Highest towing capacity for the 5.7

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redvetram

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My vote is it will be fine, especially with only towing a couple times/year. I’m not gonna waste time going over all the math that’s already been spewed on here. But I can tell you I haul my horse trailer with my 2019 1500 with the 3.21 gear ratio approximately 2000 miles/year. In the mountains of eastern Idaho and western Wyoming. Weight ranges between 7000-8000 pounds depending on how much hay/water I’m bringing along. I have only had issues on one route and that was a 22 mile long 10% grade mountain pass. Oil temp got up to 230 at one point. Otherwise, I barely know I’m pulling anything.
 

Douglas Lehman

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I own a 2014 1500 Laramie w/3.21 gears and I wouldn’t buy again if wanting to tow a heavy because the payload is not high enough. Consider a 2500 at least.
 

TotallyHucked

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I'm considering a RAM 1500. It would be a crew cab, short bed, 5.7 V8 engine.

The most common gear ratio is the 3.21 which will be 8120lbs. I would need 3.92 gears to get the higher capacity of 11,220.

The only model I've found that consistently comes with the 3.92 gears is the Rebel. Are there any other models that usually come with the 3.92 gears? It's been frustrating searching online because you can't specify the gears, just have to view the window sticker.
There's so much over thinking going on in this thread it's not even funny. For your needs, a 1500 with 3.92s will be just fine. It's not like you're wanting to tow a 36ft enclosed car trailer. Just keep your trailer weight reasonable when shopping. An aluminum one would be awesome if you have the budget.

Here's a chart for 2017 showing the tow, payload and GCWR of all the different combos:

Also, use this link to look up the VIN of any truck you're interested in. This will tell you every option the truck has

Mine is a 2017 Sport CC 6.4' bed 4x4 3.92 with the 33gal tank. Some helper bags and a WDH would certainly help, but it pulled this load from NE Ga to southern IL and back through the mtns just fine and got 10-11mpg doing it. I figure this is in the 7-7500lb neighborhood with my GF and some luggage and tools in the truck as well. I've towed the same setup with older GM half ton trucks (99-07 generation with ~285hp and lower weight ratings) as well with no issue. With stock sized tires, I averaged 17-19mpg unloaded and now get ~15-16 with 35s.

Would a 2500 do it easier and more stable? Sure. But unless your load is getting up to the 10k range, you'll be fine with a half ton, don't let these guys scare you.

IMG_0819.JPG
 
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There's so much over thinking going on in this thread it's not even funny. For your needs, a 1500 with 3.92s will be just fine. It's not like you're wanting to tow a 36ft enclosed car trailer. Just keep your trailer weight reasonable when shopping. An aluminum one would be awesome if you have the budget.

Here's a chart for 2017 showing the tow, payload and GCWR of all the different combos:

Also, use this link to look up the VIN of any truck you're interested in. This will tell you every option the truck has

Mine is a 2017 Sport CC 6.4' bed 4x4 3.92 with the 33gal tank. Some helper bags and a WDH would certainly help, but it pulled this load from NE Ga to southern IL and back through the mtns just fine and got 10-11mpg doing it. I figure this is in the 7-7500lb neighborhood with my GF and some luggage and tools in the truck as well. I've towed the same setup with older GM half ton trucks (99-07 generation with ~285hp and lower weight ratings) as well with no issue. With stock sized tires, I averaged 17-19mpg unloaded and now get ~15-16 with 35s.

Would a 2500 do it easier and more stable? Sure. But unless your load is getting up to the 10k range, you'll be fine with a half ton, don't let these guys scare you.

View attachment 536473

This has been my thinking as well. The only thing I will be towing is my Jeep on a trailer. I have talked to guys that had less of a truck than I am going to buy. A guy I know has an F150 with the 2.7 eco boost. Says he's towed his Jeep to different states and such and hasn't had a single problem. For the most part, I'm towing at most 2 hours to desert spots that I go wheeling. Maybe up to the mountains that's barely an hour away. Though usually would just drive it to the mountains since we always end up in a different spot than we started.

I will look for a VIN that would be close to what I want and see how the numbers workout.

I'd be tempted to get an aluminum trailer. Only thing I worry about is if it got stolen. Can you insure a trailer? I would usually be leaving it in the desert with nobody around for hours at a time.

As much as I like the idea of a 2500, that's just not going to be a practical DD. Plus the ride won't be as smooth considering the 1500 has coil springs in the rear instead of leafs. I figure a busy towing year would be 5 tows a year. Maybe that will increase when my kids get older and move out. For now, that's optimistic.
 

Black1500Ram

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There's so much over thinking going on in this thread it's not even funny. For your needs, a 1500 with 3.92s will be just fine. It's not like you're wanting to tow a 36ft enclosed car trailer. Just keep your trailer weight reasonable when shopping. An aluminum one would be awesome if you have the budget.

Here's a chart for 2017 showing the tow, payload and GCWR of all the different combos:

Also, use this link to look up the VIN of any truck you're interested in. This will tell you every option the truck has

Mine is a 2017 Sport CC 6.4' bed 4x4 3.92 with the 33gal tank. Some helper bags and a WDH would certainly help, but it pulled this load from NE Ga to southern IL and back through the mtns just fine and got 10-11mpg doing it. I figure this is in the 7-7500lb neighborhood with my GF and some luggage and tools in the truck as well. I've towed the same setup with older GM half ton trucks (99-07 generation with ~285hp and lower weight ratings) as well with no issue. With stock sized tires, I averaged 17-19mpg unloaded and now get ~15-16 with 35s.

Would a 2500 do it easier and more stable? Sure. But unless your load is getting up to the 10k range, you'll be fine with a half ton, don't let these guys scare you.

View attachment 536473
Beautiful truck; I’m envious of the 6 1/2 bed.

The ‘overthinking’ isn’t about can it be done, more should it be done and safety.

From this pic you are tail heavy with poor weight distribution over the front wheels. I'm not the towing police so my opinion doesn’t matter.

Towing like that will affect steering and braking ability. Can you still tow like this? 100% Will you most likely get to where you need without incident? Sure. Just not ideal.

With that being said, 100% a 1500 can do what the OP wants to legally, safely / ideally. Just have to get the right one.
 
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So for discussion, I looked up a potential Truck:

Per this website: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html/vin-lookup#/vin-lookup/1C6SRFFT6RN109475

VIN : 1C6SRFFT6RN109475

MAX PAYLOAD LB: 1,550

MAX TOWING LB: 11,301

Criteria: 5.7, 4X4, short box, 392 gears. Then picked one that was right around $60K which is probably what I'd be getting.

Sticker:
https://www.ramtrucks.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=1C6SRFFT6RN109475

So not sure I understand the formula with tongue weight an such. I will look at that again, just trying to determine if the specs say 'ok to tow' or not. Figure a 5000lb vehicle on a 2000lb trailer. I'll have to load up my Jeep with all my gear and see if I can get it weighed at the dump or something.

Figure the only difference in the above that MIGHT be able to slip past the wife is the exact same budget and specs, but the long bed. So I tried changing the search criteria to the same, but with the long bed. The results seem to be that I can't get that combo. It either shows the correct combo without the 3.92 gears. Or it changes the box or cab size. So not sure what's up with that, but looks to not be an option.

EDIT: Ok, had to scroll quite a bit and found one:

MY VIN : 1C6SRFMT0RN139199

MAX PAYLOAD LB: 1,603

MAX TOWING LB: 11,225

Sticker: https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/wind...33.330977825.1706649996-1800613474.1705952092

So for the extra length, you get an additional 53lb of payload.
 
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TotallyHucked

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This has been my thinking as well. The only thing I will be towing is my Jeep on a trailer. I have talked to guys that had less of a truck than I am going to buy. A guy I know has an F150 with the 2.7 eco boost. Says he's towed his Jeep to different states and such and hasn't had a single problem. For the most part, I'm towing at most 2 hours to desert spots that I go wheeling. Maybe up to the mountains that's barely an hour away. Though usually would just drive it to the mountains since we always end up in a different spot than we started.

I will look for a VIN that would be close to what I want and see how the numbers workout.

I'd be tempted to get an aluminum trailer. Only thing I worry about is if it got stolen. Can you insure a trailer? I would usually be leaving it in the desert with nobody around for hours at a time.

As much as I like the idea of a 2500, that's just not going to be a practical DD. Plus the ride won't be as smooth considering the 1500 has coil springs in the rear instead of leafs. I figure a busy towing year would be 5 tows a year. Maybe that will increase when my kids get older and move out. For now, that's optimistic.
Yeah, I see no reason for you to need a 2500. Yes, you can insure a trailer. I would think it would be minimal cost but I can't really say as I've never owned a trailer, I just borrow the company's trailers lol

My truck is my DD as well and I only tow a handful of times a year. I also have access to a 2500 Duramax and a 1 ton Cummins dually if I need to tow more than my half ton will, so I never even considered a 2500.
 

Black1500Ram

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So for discussion, I looked up a potential Truck:

Per this website: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html/vin-lookup#/vin-lookup/1C6SRFFT6RN109475

VIN : 1C6SRFFT6RN109475

MAX PAYLOAD LB: 1,550

MAX TOWING LB: 11,301

Criteria: 5.7, 4X4, short box, 392 gears. Then picked one that was right around $60K which is probably what I'd be getting.

Sticker:
https://www.ramtrucks.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=1C6SRFFT6RN109475

So not sure I understand the formula with tongue weight a such. I will look at that again, just trying to determine if the specs say 'ok to tow' or not. Figure a 5000lb vehicle on a 2000lb trailer. I'll have to load up my Jeep with all my gear and see if I can get it weighed at the dump or something.
Theoretically should be ok. Still ask for door sticker - any trim reduction for a big horn shouldn’t be much…

Tongue weight formula is you want your trailer weight balance forward biased to avoid the harmonics of irreversible trailer sway.

So the “rule” is 10-15% of your total trailer weight needs to be on the ball. You can play around with where the jeep is positioned to adjust the tongue weight.

Another way to play with tongue weight pre trailer purchase is where the axles are positioned.



Side note $60k for a 1500!!!! Eek! I would never.
 
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TotallyHucked

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Beautiful truck; I’m envious of the 6 1/2 bed.

The ‘overthinking’ isn’t about can it be done, more should it be done and safety.

From this pic you are tail heavy with poor weight distribution over the front wheels. I'm not the towing police so my opinion doesn’t matter.

Towing like that will affect steering and braking ability. Can you still tow like this? 100% Will you most likely get to where you need without incident? Sure. Just not ideal.

With that being said, 100% a 1500 can do what the OP wants to legally, safely / ideally. Just have to get the right one.
I don't disagree, a combination of helper bags and a WDH are in my future, I just had not bought them at this point and needed to pick my truck up from IL. The truck was definitely tail heavy but it certainly wasn't anywhere close to dangerous. That's what I'm saying about the overthinking, while not ideal, I was nowhere close to dangerous.
 
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Side note $60k for a 1500!!!! Eek! I would never.

Yeah, I hear ya there. I regret trading in my 2018 F150 STX 2.7EB for the wife's 2019 Expedition. The sticker on it was right around $40K IIRC. Though no heated seats, it was 2WD. Inflation has been a ***** since then.

I did try using Towengine.com to calculate the later example with the long bed. If I entered everything correctly, it shows max trailer weight of 10,514 lbs. Tongue load at 1,051.

GCWR: 13900
Curb Weight: 3236
Cargo Weight: 0
Passengers: 1
 

Hardracer

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Well dam!..at that price point I think I would be looking at a 2500 few years old and be done with it..my .02 on that part.
Alot of good info here.these guys know their stuff on towing and whatnot.what can and what could be pulled..I'd listen to both sides and make your decision.....its on you.
That being said most here would prolly freak out on the stuff I've seen down here with all these people towing these gigantic hunting buggys and such..I literally live 10 miles from that redneck mud park(formally redneck yacht club)where trucks gone wild gets filmed a few times a year.
They all go right past my place to get there.
I've seen from semi trucks to little tacos pulling some of the weirdest contraptions ever made from travel trailers to monster trucks that I wouldn't even consider pulling.
 
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Well dam!..at that price point I think I would be looking at a 2500 few years old and be done with it..my .02 on that part.
Alot of good info here.these guys know their stuff on towing and whatnot.what can and what could be pulled..I'd listen to both sides and make your decision.....its on you.
That being said most here would prolly freak out on the stuff I've seen down here with all these people towing these gigantic hunting buggys and such..I literally live 10 miles from that redneck mud park(formally redneck yacht club)where trucks gone wild gets filmed a few times a year.
They all go right past my place to get there.
I've seen from semi trucks to little tacos pulling some of the weirdest contraptions ever made from travel trailers to monster trucks that I wouldn't even consider pulling.

I've mentioned multiple times that this will be a DD and a 2500 is not an option. If it can't tow, then I won't tow. I'm not going to buy something that costs more, has worse gas mileage and a rougher ride.

It will probably be used to flat tow for the first few years until I can get a gate done at my house and then buy a trailer. Planning to have it for 10+ years, so will tow eventually.
 

DeckArtist

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I have read some weird things before in forums, but the axle ratio not making a difference in the tow rating loses the internet today. There are many factors when it comes to tow ratings and axle ratio is one of the big ones.

The Rebel is the only model that specifies the 3.92 only. I did a ton of research on this same subject when I bought mine and the 3.92s were a requirement of me buying the truck. Not only for the reason of towing, but for performance as well.

The newest Rebel is a 2500 and comes with a 4.10. Thinking about it....
 

TotallyHucked

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I've mentioned multiple times that this will be a DD and a 2500 is not an option. If it can't tow, then I won't tow. I'm not going to buy something that costs more, has worse gas mileage and a rougher ride.

It will probably be used to flat tow for the first few years until I can get a gate done at my house and then buy a trailer. Planning to have it for 10+ years, so will tow eventually.
I love mine. It's the most comfortable DD I've ever had with power and mileage to boot.
 

nlambert182

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The truck in my sig rides exactly the same as my 18 1500... :)

Actually get better fuel economy too. WAY better.

My 2018 1500 got 17mpg city and 20 mpg highway empty.
My 2018 2500 gets 18.5 city and 23 mpg highway empty.

Big trucks can easily be DDs. My 16 3500 was my DD for almost 4 years. Never had an issue. :)
 
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The truck in my sig rides exactly the same as my 18 1500... :)

Actually get better fuel economy too. WAY better.

My 2018 1500 got 17mpg city and 20 mpg highway empty.
My 2018 2500 gets 18.5 city and 23 mpg highway empty.

Big trucks can easily be DDs. My 16 3500 was my DD for almost 4 years. Never had an issue. :)

So not sure how you're calculating your gas mileage. I do see you have the Diesel, which is a whole other subject.

I am checking all my potential truck purchases on Fuelly.com (multiple owners report their combined gas mileage).

For the V8 6.6 Gas, it is showing 12.6 MPG
For the V8 6.6 Diesel, it is showing 14.1 MPG (current model)

For your 2018 Diesel (which shows 6.6 and not 6.7 like your profile), it is showing 13.3 MPG.

Compared to the V8 5.7, it is showing 17.4 for the current model. Which is also the best gas mileage compared to all half tons that are gas (not hybrid or diesel). This is also one of the reasons I started looking at the RAM 1500. So I trust those figures more than you claiming 18.5/23. Unless I'm missing something with your info?

So for a new truck, 1500 vs. 2500, the 1500 gets almost 5 MPG more (4.8). So that is significant and would definitely be a deal breaker for the 2500 in my situation. I could probably handle a little rougher ride if the numbers were a little closer.
 
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Hardracer

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Oh dam!
 

Jas34

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I have read some weird things before in forums, but the axle ratio not making a difference in the tow rating loses the internet today. There are many factors when it comes to tow ratings and axle ratio is one of the big ones.
If you're talking about what I said in the first page, I stand by it. We're talking 1500 rams, not 3/4 or 1 tons.

2 ram 1500 spec'd the same other than rear axle ratio will have the same payload capacity. If you're towing a trailer with about a 15% tongue load, you'll run out of payload capacity for the trailer tongue weight long before you hit the magic towing capacity listed by ram. So even though the .392 axle has a bigger towing capacity listed, it won't be much (if any) more in reality.

The .392 will take off from a stop quicker and be more fun to drive. The rest of the time when towing, the 8 speed transmission will make up the difference, maybe run a gear lower with the .321 than with the .392 at times to make up for it.

Back when we had 3 or 4 speed transmissions, axle ratio made all the difference...maybe even with a 6 speed. With an 8 or 10 speed these days, not so much.

The OP seems to be interested in getting better fuel mileage most of the time and will not be towing very much, so a 1500 with a .321 rear axle will do all he needs and get a little better fuel mileage when he isn't towing with it.
 

AlexC2350

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Is that info available online? I'm trying to figure these things out before I even test drive it. If the 'real' number is on the door, that makes research difficult.

These dealers online don’t even really understand that payload and towing capacity differs between models and various options or why it even matters. They almost never post a pic of the door sticker and same with gearing option. It’s very irritating when searching for a truck. The nice thing about rams is you can google fca vin look up and put in the vin and get build details like gearing.

If you’re only pulling a jeep on a flat deck trailer I wouldn’t even worry about 3.92 vs 3.21 or the payload too much. I pulled my tractor on a flat equipment trailer weighing around 8k combined a few times with my 17 bighorn w/ 3.21s and it had no issues. I also pulled a 5500lb camper that was very well paired with that truck.
 

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