Thinking of making the switch to 2500 6.4

mtofell said:

The main 10K pound thing I'm aware of has to do with the GVWR of the truck not the trailer. In Oregon they even distinguish some laws for chaining up in the mountains based on that which is pretty crazy IMO. A 2500 and 3500 are extremely similar trucks and, according to the law, the 3500 must chain up while the 2500 is okay with just traction devices. I've also heard of HOAs banning "commercial" vehicles which a 3500 is so guys just get emblems from a 2500 to make the blue hair HOA boss happy. Aside from the emblems, 2500s and 3500s are really the same from the outside.

Click to expand...

nlambert182 said:

It's going to be tough to find any 2500/3500 that's worth salt under $25k unfortunately. They're out there, sure... but either worn out or chock full of miles.

The 6 speeds in the 2500 gassers do "seem" to have their share of issues from what I read, but take what I say with a grain of salt because I know very little on the gassers. They didn't suit my needs so for 3/4T and up I've been in a diesel since 2010.

Click to expand...

mtofell said:

The main 10K pound thing I'm aware of has to do with the GVWR of the truck not the trailer. In Oregon they even distinguish some laws for chaining up ithe mountains based on that which is pretty crazy IMO. A 2500 and 3500 are extremely similar trucks and, according to the law, the 3500 must

Click to expand...

Overlander said:

If you look at ORS 815.145, both the 2500 and 3500 are required to use chains as their empty weight is over 6,500 lbs. This is what you will be cited for. The ODOT signage and website is based upon an administrative rule 734-017-0015. This applies to commercial operators. What's even more confusing, is the signage states GVW (actual weight) while the website states GVWR (rated weight).

Regardless, if you stay out of the ditch with either my guess is you'll be fine. It's when you block a road or cause an accident that the details get picked apart. And even with that, you could still always be cited with driving at a speed unsafe for the conditions (ORS 811.100) or worse Careless 811.135 or Reckless 811.140. So even if exempt, that doesn't mean you're completely free to roll sans chains.

Click to expand...

mtofell said:

Strange... I never knew anything about the 6500# thing. I've just seen the signs and info on the Tripcheck page: https://www.tripcheck.com/Pages/Chain-Law#:~:text=You must use chains if,GVW whether towing or not.

Click to expand...

Overlander said:

If you scroll down to the bottom of that link you'll see the ORS (without it stating that it's the ORS) and the 6,500 lbs requirement.

ODOT only cares about it's administrative rules, which are enforceable to motor carriers, but are not actual laws in the state of Oregon. So they put up these signs and most people take them as the law. If you're not in commercial service, the citation would be for ORS 815.140. Though I'm not sure that many troopers or deputies are that well versed.

I doubt 815.140 citations are ever issued for 2500s or 3500s unless running summer tires or 2wd. My guess is those violations are used for the semi driver who fails to chain up and gets stuck.

And back to the original point, I wouldn't hesitate to roll a 3500 with traction tires (and 4wd) any more than I worry about running my PW over its GVWR (but under other 2500s GVWR). I cross the cascades 50-60 times per year and cannot remember seeing 3/4T or 1T trucks with chains. The only chains I see are on FWD passenger cars and commercial vehicles (>26,000 lbs).

And, while not on topic, airing down should be the number one tool, not chains. Even at 9,000 lbs I run 35psi for good traction white roads and 20-25 for more naughty stuff. Airing back up, of course, when conditions change. 35 may seem low, but if you look at a tire inflation chart E rated tires are usually good for 2,300 lbs at that pressure. Obviously need to know your axle weights and do the math for what is right for your load and conditions.

Click to expand...

mtofell said:

I agree 4.10 gears are preferable but you're extremely unlikely find one. For whatever reason, 90%+ of the truck had the 3.73 gears and it really isn't that much of a difference. Watch out of tranny problems for sure. As time goes on the 66rfe isn't going to go down as a very reliable tranny... in fact, it's looking to be one of the more problematic ones.

I'll preface my experience by saying I have a Lifetime Maxcare warranty so I haven't really been monetarily hurt but my truck has had quite a few problems - first tranny blew @ 38K miles zero load - sitting in traffic on the freeway, went to accelerate and had nothing. That rebuild failed again at 90K miles and I'm holding steady at 130K. My engine blew at 110K due to some main/master (??) bearing problem and I got a new crate engine.

Overall, I love my truck but would NEVER own it without a warranty in place. 5/6K per tranny rebuild, 12K+ for an engine? No thanks. My daily driver is a 2008 Honda Odyssey with 130K miles that has been totally trouble free for 15+ years. I'd be daily driving my Ram (with warranty) except I moved to Maui with my Honda and left the truck on the mainland to use when I'm there - roughly 25% mainland/75% Hawaii split. I guess my advice is to go into the Ram with an open mind and checkbook as things do come up on these trucks.

Click to expand...

Snoopy said:

That is what I am wanting to do is upgrade from my 1500 to a 2500 6.4. You wont gain anything with a 3500 unless you get dual rear wheels on it.

Click to expand...

Northwoods22 said:

Appreciate it everyone

I’m trying like hell to find one with the 4:10 gears.. as said it seems almost impossible.

Its a frustrating thing.. I’m trying to start my own small construction business this year and need a bigger more capable truck( I’m coming from a tundra) and I really don’t want to take on a big payment and get ahead of myself.( or buy a *************) Just need something to get the ball rolling.

Proving to be quite difficult, and I am a bit suprised at the lack of abilities of some of these older HD trucks of all makes.

Click to expand...

17Ramguy78 said:

Please take this with a grain of salt. If you are looking to start your business on the low end does your truck necessarily have to be a Ram? I would look for a tried and true workhorse and I see tons of super duties pulling trailers. Mind you I'm not endorsing Ford by no means just going by what I see. If it must be a Ram then do your research first. I have the 66rfe tranny in my 17 but I have not really tested it towing, that will come spring . I do hear the 8 speed is the way to go 19s' and up.

Click to expand...

62Blazer said:

What conditions and routes are you going to be towing? In my opinion there is a big difference between towing 200 miles at a time on the freeway going 70 mph, versus towing 5 miles through town or on 55 mph roads. My guess is you are going short distances and very little high speed freeway time. There is a group of guys I tow with (pulling multiple trailers to sites). Most of the time it's fairly local and you are pulling maybe 10-15 miles at max and maybe up to 55 mph for short distances. We don't even bother with WDH hitches and airing tires up further ect....for those trips. On the other hand we do a handful of 100-200 mile trips a year on the freeway in which we will hook up WDH, run higher air pressures, etc....

In any case, a 2500 6.4 truck will do fine either way. I also wouldn't be scared of the 6 speed. Sure, while there are dozens of people who jump on here and complain about the transmission there are also literally millions of these trucks on the road. And many regularly pulling trailers. A few dozen divided by millions of trucks is only a fraction of a % with problems. I personally know many people with 6.4 6 speed 2500 trucks and only 1 has had any trans problems.

Click to expand...

tbird71 said:

Don't buy a 2500 6 speed or a worn out hi mile POS trying to stay under 25K is all I'll say. Or spend 25K on a worthless used up one and another 15K once it goes in the shop (and odds are it likely WILL). I would think you could land a good 3500 8 speed for around 40K. (being realistic) Me it'd be easier to pony up then go to the repair shop. Step up to the plate or quit the heavy construction business...you cant have BOTH)

Click to expand...

Northwoods22 said:

Flat rural or in town 10-15 miles loaded . I appreciate the advice. Most internet towing info seems to come from long distance towing big campers. WD hitch and all that is incredibly impractical for construction, have never seen it once.

Click to expand...