60,000 mile service

Hi all,

I have a ‘17 quad cab 4x2 with a Hemi 5.7 and the 8 spd. auto.

The dealer is pushing the 60K service, and I am just trying to determine what wrenching I can do and what is necessary. Any insights are appreciated.

Thanks!

Technically, you can do all the services yourself. The real question is: "How much do you want to do?" or "At what point does doing the service yourself and saving a buttload of money become too technically challenging to do yourself, or too much of a PITA to do yourself?" and "How much are you willing to shell out for the services?". I do almost all my own services excluding tires (I don't have a tire balance, alignment, or tire change machine). While I'm doing my services, I often take advantage of the opportunity to do an upgrade - i.e.: better brake pads, better plugs, better coil packs, better rotors, better oil, etc.; than what you get with a dealership.

Agreed. I will do all I can within reason. Not having done more than upgrades and basics to my RAM, I am looking for insights from those that have possibly done this themselves. Thanks!

1)Inspect the CV/Universal joints.
2)Inspect front suspension, tierod ends, and replace if necessary
3)1500 Models: Inspect the front and rear axle surfaces. If gear oil leakage is suspected, check the fluid level. If using your vehicle for police, taxi, fleet, off-road or frequent trailer towing, change axle fluid.
4)Inspect the brake linings, replace as necessary.
5)Adjust parking brake as necessary.
6)Replace cabin air filter.
7)Replace engine air filter.
8)Change automatic transmission fluid and filter(s) (six-speed automatic only), if using your vehicle for police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing.
9)Inspect the transfer case fluid, change for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing.

1) thru 3 should be plenty of YouTubes(YT) out there, the fun part is if you find an issue
4) There are some brake shops the offer free inspections(enter at your own risk, scams).
5) pressing the release pedal, pull up and see it there is alot of distance before resistance.
6 & 7) Easily self-maintained
8) N/A
9) YT it and you should be able see how to check it

Macfolk said:

Agreed. I will do all I can within reason. Not having done more than upgrades and basics to my RAM, I am looking for insights from those that have possibly done this themselves. Thanks!

Click to expand...

So without knowing your skill level, the easiest upgrades you can do are a coil pack upgrade, and probably pads/rotors. Engine/fluids are easy. Transmission/transfer case/differentials are a little more involved, but still quite do-able by any DIYer.

What is the dealer pushing to be done at 60k??

Dealers always push the service interval maintenance as they are big money makers. You’ll notice most of the items are “checks” not actual services. As everyone else has already stated it’s a lot less expensive if you learn to do it yourself. As Black-wolf stated use quality replacement parts and fluids. If it helps, I have 80K miles on my 2018 and the brake pads are original, last check a third of the pads still available. The coolant is a 10 year/150k mile formula. Seeing you have a 7 year old truck it is probably good preventative maintenance to do early. While coolant exchange isn’t a difficult job it’s a PITA to get the entirety of the old coolant out and proper concentration of new coolant back in. If you do it yourself, use only the OEM fluid. Get the concentrate and use distilled water. If you don’t have one, buy a burp fill funnel. Having a 2WD you only have the rear differential and it’s very easy to do a drain and fill. Get the squish packs as they ease in filling. The transmission fluid will be the biggest service. Don’t go by the dealer or manual and expect it to last a lifetime. You are at the point for a transmission fluid replacement according to the transmission manufacturer. The fluid and pan are expensive but then so is a new transmission. Stick with quality parts not the $39 Amazon special as the pans may look the same but the all important seal will most likely be inferior to the OEM, don’t ask me how I know. It’s a complicated process but still within a mechanically adept persons ability. After you do it the first time you’ll learn a lot for next time. Read up on the process here on the forum and ask questions. The spark plugs are iridium’s and get changed at the 100K service. Cabin filter is very easy to replace as well as the engine air filter. If you find any services are beyond your ability it is almost always less expensive to take your truck to an independent shop to do specific services.

Pull air off clean throttle body, replace pcv, change filter.

Diffs easy to do, get amsoil ss or valvoline in bags, no need for a pump, get three quarts each. Simple as removing booty and bolts and save $. U don't know what you have for a frant diff, some 4x2's dont have diffs, so manybe just do rear with 75w140 fluid.

Brake fluid, if you can remove 4 tires and have a friend this can be fun actually, look up youtubes, go dot 4 fluid. Usually brake flushed are cheap at places such as pep boys.

Before you do plugs or change oil, run redline si-1 and only that through gas maybe two tank fulls, see the thread for the why. It's gonna clean carbon away from rings and start cleaning the combustion chamber.

Then change oil.

The do plugs if you are gonna do them, I know they say 100k plugs, but performance does fade on those.

At least check coolant for color and level.

Good idea to learn how to dyi fluid on 8 speed, it's no small thing and if a dealer doesnt charge you near a grand, I would be suspect they are doing it right. You can dyi 400 or so, but any dealer saying 4-5 hundred they wont do it right or at all.

Get those oem pads of and go with some wagner oex's.

Black-Wolf said:

So without knowing your skill level, the easiest upgrades you can do are a coil pack upgrade, and probably pads/rotors. Engine/fluids are easy. Transmission/transfer case/differentials are a little more involved, but still quite do-able by any DIYer.

Click to expand...

The stock coil packs are one of the best coil packs available.You won't find any good hi-po shop reconmemding after market coils on a hemi. The stock coils are good to 1200+ horsepower. You're better off rebuilding the OEM coils with new boots and springs and spending a few minutes with a dremel and a 1/8" carbon steel brush cleaning up the coil contact under the springs.

Wild one said:

The stock coil packs are one of the best coil packs available.You won't find any good hi-po shop reconmemding after market coils on a hemi. The stock coils are good to 1200+ horsepower. You're better off rebuilding the OEM coils with new boots and springs and spending a few minutes with a dremel and a 1/8" carbon steel brush cleaning up the coil contact under the springs.

Click to expand...

I personally disagree - based on my experience - I got the R.I.P.P. coil packs and noticed improvement over stock - nothing crazy, but better gas mileage, and more power. Engine runs smoother as well.

Black-Wolf said:

I personally disagree - based on my experience - I got the R.I.P.P. coil packs and noticed improvement over stock - nothing crazy, but better gas mileage, and more power. Engine runs smoother as well.

Click to expand...

Well you disagree with pretty well every hi-po outfit going. Satera had a video up awhile ago comparing the Ripp coils to stock coils,lets just say the Ripp coils left a whole lot to be desired compared to the stock coils. With all the milege limitations on new vehicles these days,very few aftermarket coils are built to the same quality of the stock coils.The manufactures have better coils these days then the after market has. Try and find any outfit using after market coils on anything making a 1,000+hp,you won't find many.Hate to say anything but you fell for Steven's advertising on his coils,lol
BTW don't throw your stock coils away,rebuild and keep them in a dry place,for when your Ripp coils go south