I think my water pump is leaking. Need some advice.

HangmanNY · Oct 4, 2026

EdGs said:
^^^This^^^

I had my block drains out for my cam/lifter job. Been long enough ago, I don't remember if I blew some low pressure compessed air through my heater core. I had replaced my radiator a few months before my cam job and had done a few drain and fills at that time.

Reservoir took about 3 qts., I think. I just kept checking the reservoir dipstick until I got it to the 'max' hole. I did remove my reservoir and empy/rinse it out and found a bit of what I believe is casting sand in there when I did the radiator job. It was clean for my cam job.

If you didn't remove the block drains, after a bit of running, you could drain a half gallon or so out and replace with concentrate. That should bring your concentration up.

If it puts your concentration a litlle over 50/50, I wouldn't worry about it. I've also heard what @06 Dodge said about 60-65% concentration as well.

That was my actual plan!!! I was going to remove the radiator cap and open up the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Then put new concentrated coolant in the radiator.

I actually used a long tube fluid extractor to suck all of the old Liquid out of the overflow reservoir. Should I put a 50-50 mix in the overflow reservoir?

EdGs · Oct 4, 2026

HangmanNY said:
I actually used a long tube fluid extractor to suck all of the old Liquid out of the overflow reservoir. Should I put a 50-50 mix in the overflow reservoir?

Yes, 50/50

In fact, what you drain out from the radiator to put new concentrate in, you could just check it, and if it's short of 50/50, add a little concentrate to it, and put that in your reservoir.

HangmanNY · Oct 4, 2026

EdGs said:
Yes, 50/50

In fact, what you drain out from the radiator to put new concentrate in, you could just checkit, and if it's short of 50/50, add a little concentrate to it, and put that in your reservoir.

Thanks!

mdc1990zr1 · Oct 4, 2026

EdGs said:
This is the one I used on my '15 SLT. says OE here, but current RockAuto listing does not. It was $126 here, now $132, and cost me about $100 to ship at that time. Was still a good bit cheaper than my local parts places.
View attachment 590530
Installation was pretty straigh-forward. I did remove my grille, and took my AGS loose, made unhooking the condenser from the radiator easy.

Overheat, HELP!

2015 Ram 1500, 196k miles Got stuck in horrendus traffic in a parking lot, as I was pulling in to get gas, my dinger went off. Coolant temp high, 240°. SHIIIIIT! Shut her off, waited to cool. I have coolant on driver sde of rad, a little on crossmember below ac compressor. I went in and...

www.ramforum.com

@HangmanNY, there is an Amazon link in there from @Ken226 for replacement grille clips for less that $10, well worth it, just in case. I broke a couple on my truck.

The OEM on my 2000 Jeep Wrangler was a Denso. I got it from Rock Auto also

mdc1990zr1 · Oct 4, 2026

HangmanNY said:
That was my actual plan!!! I was going to remove the radiator cap and open up the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Then put new concentrated coolant in the radiator.

I actually used a long tube fluid extractor to suck all of the old Liquid out of the overflow reservoir. Should I put a 50-50 mix in the overflow reservoir?

Mix it 50:50 before you put it in the vehicle. The leftover will then be accurate and ready to use in the future. Just remember to mark the container what is in it

HangmanNY · Oct 4, 2026

mdc1990zr1 said:
Mix it 50:50 before you put it in the vehicle. The leftover will then be accurate and ready to use in the future. Just remember to mark the container what is in it

I had purchased 3 gallons of the Mopar concentrate OAT coolant. So far I’ve used about a gallon and a half.

I’ll probably eventually have one partial container of 50-50. And a partial container of concentrate. I will label both of them.

dacheedah · Oct 5, 2026

Just a note, I got a couple gallons of Zerex G05 concentrate on clearance at Advanced Auto for less than $3.00 a gallon , my truck uses Hoat.

HangmanNY · Oct 5, 2026

Since I only got about 1 1/2 gallons of concentrate into the system mixed with the distilled water, I drained the radiator a little while ago

I got about 2/3 of a gallon out. I added about a quart of concentrate to that. I mixed it up in an empty Mopar coolant jug. I tested it. Right now the boilover protection is about 263°F.

And the freeze protection is -20 Fahrenheit. That’s what’s currently in that bottle. Is this sufficient? Or should I add more concentrate to it and test it again?

I live in Florida, but do travel to Long Island now and again. It doesn’t get that cold up here.

Let me know about what the optimal protection levels should be on the coolant?

Thanks!

** I looked it up online. They said the freeze protection should be about -35°F. And the boil over protection 265°F. I added more concentrate and I’m right on the Mark right now.

dacheedah · Oct 5, 2026

HangmanNY said:
Did you modify this at all? Or just put the short end of the hose on that fitting, and let the long end hang down. Did you use any hose clamps?

ThanksView attachment 590470
Last flush and drain. Closeup photo

dacheedah · Oct 5, 2026

HangmanNY said:
Did you modify this at all? Or just put the short end of the hose on that fitting, and let the long end hang down. Did you use any hose clamps?

ThanksView attachment 590470
Last flush and drain. Closeup photo

I put the short end on it and put a spring hose clamp on it, it hangs down

HangmanNY · Oct 5, 2026

dacheedah said:
I put the short end on it and put a spring hose clamp on it, it hangs down

During the flushes with the distilled water, I removed the lower radiator hose. I have a large catch pan. It probably got 80% of what came out. Because when you disconnect that lower radiator hose, it tends to go everywhere.

I also opened up the radiator drain valve. I attached a quarter inch hose to that into a 1 gallon bucket.

I merely poured everything out out of the catch pan into those empty bottles of distilled water with a funnel

The heat has always been very hot in the truck. I also picked up one of those large funnel kits with the different radiator attachments. To help leave the air out of the system. I was actually surprised how well it worked.

I run the engine and get the coolant hot, until the thermostat opens. Then I let it sit for an hour or so. I find out that I always have to add a little more coolant again.

spoolinlust · Oct 10, 2026

Hopefully it all worked out, finally got mine burped and codes cleared. And now I have a new mini welding table. Don't worry, that box is pure chena antiflamretarded for sure. While I was at it found 2 other codes for evap and out out shaft speed sensor. Luckily quick fixes but now my trans death sentence got moved to the front of the line lol. It never shifted well since I swapped in the stroker. Must have broke the wire to it messing around or when I did the trans fluid. I'm sure these tires won't last long either.

HangmanNY · Oct 10, 2026

I had to drain the radiator one more time and buy another gallon of concentrated Mopar coolant. I saved what I drained out.

After adding the concentrate, I ran the engine until the cooling system got hot. Then I tested it again when it cooled down.

I have 275°F boil over protection

And -45°F freeze protection.

So it’s looking good now. The thing I don’t understand is every time I drive the truck and then let it cool down again, adding a bit more coolant

The overflow tank is almost to the maximum line

So I have to assume after driving the truck some more air got out? That’s why I’ve always had to add a few ounces of coolant again. I have no leaks.

spoolinlust · Oct 10, 2026

HangmanNY said:
I had to drain the radiator one more time and buy another gallon of concentrated Mopar coolant. I saved what I drained out.

After adding the concentrate, I ran the engine until the cooling system got hot. Then I tested it again when it cooled down.

I have 275°F boil over protection

And -45°F freeze protection.

So it’s looking good now. The thing I don’t understand is every time I drive the truck and then let it cool down again, adding a bit more coolant

The overflow tank is almost to the maximum line

So I have to assume after driving the truck some more air got out? That’s why I’ve always had to add a few ounces of coolant again. I have no leaks.

You have to be really sure you don't have leaks. I had the same prob before I did mine with no visible signs of leaking... So I thought. Turns out the end tank was leaking right by the fan shroud pulling the dripping coolant into the shroud and essentially turning it into an undetectable mist. I found it by just laying under the truck for a few minutes watching for anomalies. Some people like to look up at the stars I look up at the bottom of cars and trucks lol.

It is possible it's simply still bleeding out. I'm a little skeptical of that if you used the tunnel attachment for bleeding radiators and did that with the vehicle flat as possible.

HangmanNY · Oct 10, 2026

Are you talking about the overflow tank leaking?

I had to look at it online to figure out what you’re talking about. You’re talking about metal radiator protrusions/connections that connect the radiator hoses. Is that correct?

I’ll go out and check the level again.

*** I filled up the overflow tank right to the max level. Maybe two or 3 ounces of coolant added to the radiator.*** I did go out for a drive earlier today, but I didn’t do more than about 30 minutes

I’ll keep my eye on this. If it turns out something like this goes bad, I’m assuming that means a new radiator?

spoolinlust · Oct 10, 2026

Mine was leaking at the end tank right where the fan shroud meets the radiator.

HangmanNY · Oct 10, 2026

spoolinlust said:
Mine was leaking at the end tank right where the fan shroud meets the radiator.

So that means a new radiator? I asked someone that question the other day. I believe someone said you have to take the entire grill out to change the radiator.

Hopefully that’s not the problem. But since we’re on the subject, which companies are making really good radiators for these trucks?

spoolinlust · Oct 11, 2026

HangmanNY said:
So that means a new radiator? I asked someone that question the other day. I believe someone said you have to take the entire grill out to change the radiator.

Hopefully that’s not the problem. But since we’re on the subject, which companies are making really good radiators for these trucks?

If the radiator is leaking then yes new radiator. I just popped the hood disconnected everything attached to the rad slid it out then the shroud. Similar to installing it, even with the thicker core.

Really good is really good money. Cold case, Afe, Koyo, Mishimoto. I'm sure others will testify.

HangmanNY · Friday at 11:46 AM

Update. There must’ve been some residual air in the system. The overflow tank is right at the max level.

And the radiator is topped up. I don’t need to fill it again. And no leaks.

Driving later tonight back to Florida.

Thanks again for all the helpful tips!

EdGs · Saturday at 8:06 AM

Good deal, @HangmanNY.

When I changed my radiator, it took several times of checking it and adding a little coolant (a few ounces) each time, until the radiator was full.

You do not have to remove the grille to change the radiator, but it makes it ALOT easier to get at the bolts where the condenser attaches to the rad.

Regarding radiator leaks, mine and AT LEAST 8 others I know of, ALL leaked an inch or so below the upper rad hose, right on a mold seam.

Good job getting it done, wish you many miles of enjoyment.

I think my water pump is leaking. Need some advice.

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