1500 Classic uses different fluids?

[ADWarlock20]

Hey all,

I was doing some research in this forum on the fluids/capacities for both differentials and the transfer case on my 2020 1500 Classic Warlock with 3.21 gears. I had the following in my carts:
Front differential: Redline 75W85
Transfer case: Amsoil MV (I have the BW 44-45)
Rear differential: Redline 75W140

I double checked my owner's manual, and Chrysler is recommending 75W90 for the rear differential. In the 2018 owner's manual, they recommend 75W140. Has anything changed in the rear ends from 2018 to 2019-21 Classic that would explain the need for a different fluid?

2020 Classic:

2018:

 

[Burla]

You are correct, if I was you I don't know what I'd do, maybe follow the book. As long as you are staying with that brand, the 90 for the rear will give stout protection against many other 90 weights, makes it an easier decision?

Side note even though you see there dot 3 fluid it can be substituted with dot 4, always the better choice.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Fluid type won't matter. I'd match the rear axle fluid weights. But that's just me.

Frequent Heavy trailer towing would be a special consideration.

Good luck

 

[ADWarlock20]

Thank you. I also was not able to find much info about the MS-A0160 spec recommendation for the rear. Both Amsoil and Redline did not state if their oils met that spec. I emailed Redline and a rep confirmed that it meets the standard.

 

[Jeepwalker]

It's a real good idea to write down exactly what you put in each spot. Or toss the order form in your owner's manual with mileage on it. If I don't do that I always second-guess what I put in the next time I need to change it. Esp if you maintain multiple vehicles.

The blue ram looks great!

 

[ADWarlock20]

Thanks! I keep a folder with all my receipts, since everything has been done by me except for warranty work. I ended up ordering all this for my 30k mile service:

Redline 75w85 for the front differential
Amsoil MV for the transfer case
Redline 75w90 for the rear differential
Wix air filter and oil filter
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20

I'll end up doing the transmission fluid/filter change closer to 50k miles.

 

[Jeepwalker]

It might just last forever! he he

Well, except for RUST! You might want to make a rust-preventitive plan like your lube plan. These 4th gen Rams can definitely rust, after enough exposure. I'm seeing some rusty ones around here now. There are a few images online of rusty Rams that are real eye-openers.

Everyone has their favorite witches-brew rust preventative, but oil is cheap and gets into all crevices, easy to do yourself. Rear wheel wells get it first. Rockers, cab corners. A guy can easily remove the rear fender liners and shoot some oil up there around the box wheel-wells. Then those pesky ram-only areas (like behind the middle of the front fender where the Ram logo is). A guy can buy one of these little oil containers (link below) at an HVAC supply place (or ebay for a couple bucks) that make it real easily get oil into your doors and tailgate. Oil works great. Farmers used it for 100 years. I know a lot of guys who have for decades (incl me).

Some guys use other products or take it to a rust-proof outfit. Thats good too, if they do a thorough job (not a 'quickie'). The main thing is to not kick the can down the road. Then the next thing you know you have a nice "running" truck with ugly rust spots.

Amazon.com

 

[ADWarlock20]

It might just last forever! he he

Well, except for RUST! You might want to make a rust-preventitive plan like your lube plan. These 4th gen Rams can definitely rust, after enough exposure. I'm seeing some rusty ones around here now. There are a few images online of rusty Rams that are real eye-openers.

Everyone has their favorite witches-brew rust preventative, but oil is cheap and gets into all crevices, easy to do yourself. Rear wheel wells get it first. Rockers, cab corners. A guy can easily remove the rear fender liners and shoot some oil up there around the box wheel-wells. Then those pesky ram-only areas (like behind the middle of the front fender where the Ram logo is). A guy can buy one of these little oil containers (link below) at an HVAC supply place (or ebay for a couple bucks) that make it real easily get oil into your doors and tailgate. Oil works great. Farmers used it for 100 years. I know a lot of guys who have for decades (incl me).

Some guys use other products or take it to a rust-proof outfit. Thats good too, if they do a thorough job (not a 'quickie'). The main thing is to not kick the can down the road. Then the next thing you know you have a nice "running" truck with ugly rust spots.

Amazon.com

View attachment 485883

I take mine to the local "rust check" shop every year. If it ever rusts out, they'll cover the cost as long as I take it to them once per year.

 

[Jeepwalker]

You're too smart!!!

 

[ADWarlock20]

There is nothing I despise more than rust. I started taking it there when I still had temp tags on it, in mid summer!