1500 locking hub kit

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MRFREEZE57

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hello, new here and just picked up a (new to me) 2016 1500 4x4, love the truck but do not like the idea of the front axles and drive train constantly turning. the only kit I can find thru hours of research is the conversion kit offered by therammaninc. my question is does anyone out there have one of these in use and how is the quality and ease of install by the average diy man?
 

1500ram12

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I have never seen anyone post that they have installed one on a 1500. I'm guessing with any amount of knowledge of working on a vehicle and the right tools you could probably have it done in a weekend. But I don't know what the kit includes and what modifications need to be done


2018 2500 6.4L Tradesman
 
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MRFREEZE57

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I have never seen anyone post that they have installed one on a 1500. I'm guessing with any amount of knowledge of working on a vehicle and the right tools you could probably have it done in a weekend. But I don't know what the kit includes and what modifications need to be done


2018 2500 6.4L Tradesman

the pics on the site show a new set of drive axles and hub machined to accept a locking hub assy, looks fairly strait forward to install, just wondering if anyone out there has a set in use and how well the like them.
 

6.7CumminsDrvr

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I’ve looked at those.........what is interesting is that setup uses a unit bearing, not serviceable bearings like you’re typical locking hubs.

looked tempting but not sure if the cost is worth it.
 

ram1500rsm

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What's the point if you transfer case is in 2wd ? i haven't checked but i don't think the TC has the front diff locked and turring with the selector in 2wd. ?? but even if it was, $1800 to disabled it, assuming somebody will make it work in the 1500 ?
 
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MRFREEZE57

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What's the point if you transfer case is in 2wd ? i haven't checked but i don't think the TC has the front diff locked and turring with the selector in 2wd. ??

no it does not, but the front drive axles and differential are constantly freewheeling when in 2wd, just no power transmitted to the front from the TC. just seems to be a lot of unnecessary drag especially on a cold day and the front differential lube is very thick it would be much more efficient with free spinning front wheels. I would invest in a set if could find some customer satisfaction views.
 

Ken226

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You'll probably not find many, if any at all, here using this setup.

The front axle and electronic axle engagement actuator are far from being the weak points in our trucks 4x4 system.

In 2wd, the passenger side front axle is decoupled. Effectively, split in half, by an electronic coupler.
As your driving, the driver side axle is rotating, Which rotates the spider gears inside the carrier. But, the carrier itself isn't effected.
So on the passenger side front axle, as your driving forward, the axle portion on the left side of the coupler will be spinning backwards and the half on the right side of the coupler would be spinning forward.

Basically, on the current setup, while in 2wd, the axles are freewheeling and the spider gears are spinning, but the carrier/ring/pinion are not.

It's not really very inefficient, so you probably won't find many who have bothered to use this kit.

resource.png

Part# 11 is the r/s axle halves. The part between them is the sliding coupler.
 
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MRFREEZE57

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You'll probably not find many, if any at all, here using this setup.

The front axle and electronic axle engagement actuator are far from being the weak points in our trucks 4x4 system.

In 2wd, the passenger side front axle is decoupled. Effectively, split in half, by an electronic coupler.
As your driving, the driver side axle is rotating, Which rotates the spider gears inside the carrier. But, the carrier itself isn't effected.
So on the passenger side front axle, as your driving forward, the axle portion on the left side of the coupler will be spinning backwards and the half on the right side of the coupler would be spinning forward.

Basically, on the current setup, while in 2wd, the axles are freewheeling and the spider gears are spinning, but the carrier/ring/pinion are not.

It's not really very inefficient, so you probably won't find many who have bothered to use this kit.

resource.png

Part# 11 is the r/s axle halves. The part between them is the sliding coupler.


that is some very good information, was wondering what that solenoid on the passenger side axle was for. so what you are saying is when in 2wd, the front carrier assy is not turning the front drive shaft ( or very little at most ) so there is not as much drag as it would appear. I guess the main advantage of a set of hubs would be less wear on the front CV joints. so what you are saying is that one would not really notice any or very little difference in gas mileage or front tire wear by adding hubs? that exploded view does help explain a lot on the system.
 

Ken226

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Right. Theres little to no parasitic hydraulic drag from the differential carrier.

There is a small amount from the spider gears spinning though. The axles are spinning, and the spider gears inside the carrier are spinning, so there is a little parasitic drag from that. But, its not a significant amount.

With regard to the locking hub kit, sure, it would be of some benefit. The question is, -is the juice worth the squeeze?-

It's 1600 ish dollars and at least a few hours of work, to increase the lifespan of a part that already tends to outlast the rest of the truck, and might gain you a fraction of a mpg.
 
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MRFREEZE57

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guess will have to think that over a bit more. this is the first 4wd have owned, was thinking of years back on dads old 67 jeep cj, back then if remember correct hubs were an easy install, just unbolt the factory one and install a locker in place. just seems would be much more simple to have 1 piece axles and manual hubs but so many now want that shift on the fly 4wd.
 
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