16 Ram 1500 big horn non alpine system sub help

[DanKScott]

Hello, I have a 16 Ram 1500 Big Horn without the Alpine system but the 8.4 UConnect radio. I was wondering if I would still be able to get the factory sub that comes in the higher models and it still be plug and play? If so where would the connector be? Also if not how difficult is it to hook up and amp and sub to these trucks. First time with something as new as this so I want to make sure if I do decide to install it myself I’m not going to be messing anything up. I have not installed subwoofers on a vehicle where I cannot get subwoofer plugs on the radio so how would I go about it? I know this is long winded but I want to make sure I get all my bases covered. Thank you in advance!

 

[crash68]

Unfortunately the subwoofer used in the Alpine system uses an amplifier that's mounted under the dash, and powers all the speakers in the vehicle. It's not an easy swap in either as the wiring harnesses for the two systems are different.
Your best best is to use a Kicker Hideaway subwoofer (or similar) under/behind the back seat, even with the fold flat floor. The wiring included with the Hideaway sub is long enough even for a CrewCab truck. It's not a ground pounding sub but will help fill in the low end nicely.
If you don't have plans already, upgrade the interior speakers with the Mopar 77KICK28ab(fronts) and 77KICK41(rears). These are plug n play, other aftermarket speakers require spacers and wiring adapters

 

[DanKScott]

@crash68 So would I have to wire in that sub to a door speaker? Or directly into the wires coming from the back of the stereo? I’m going to check out those speakers now thank you. I’m not looking for anything ridiculous just want a little more thump from my stereo

 

[crash68]

the Hideaway sub would be wired into the speaker wiring. It's long enough to reach the wiring where it goes into the back doors. Those speakers make a huge difference over the stock ones.

 

[DanKScott]

Thank you very much for your help

 

[IDSandman]

Adding a sub to the stock system would be a waste imho. You would be way ahead of the game to upgrade the speakers and install a small amp. Do that first then determine if you need a sub. I installed Kenwood excelon 6x9 components in the front doors and dash with a 200.4 Kicker Key amp in bi-amp mode and Kicker 6x9’s in the rear door for fill ran off the head unit. Kill matted the doors and added foam behind the door speakers. It absolutely CRANKS and hits hard! Most people think I have a sub, not yet but will be adding a 12” sub in a Fox box under back seat.

 

[DanKScott]

@IDSandman im gonna look into all that thank you! Will those speakers need a spacer to clear the window? If so are they included?

 

[mtwofeathers]

Adding a sub to the stock system would be a waste imho. You would be way ahead of the game to upgrade the speakers and install a small amp. Do that first then determine if you need a sub. I installed Kenwood excelon 6x9 components in the front doors and dash with a 200.4 Kicker Key amp in bi-amp mode and Kicker 6x9’s in the rear door for fill ran off the head unit. Kill matted the doors and added foam behind the door speakers. It absolutely CRANKS and hits hard! Most people think I have a sub, not yet but will be adding a 12” sub in a Fox box under back seat.

I blew my front window once when I put a 3,000 watt amp under the rear seat with 19" Rockford Fosgate speakers in a box on the back seat. No I don't drive around with them on. Only at beach parties at lake powell. And only country as well.

 

[Spectre04]

OP, what did you go with?
I recently replaced the six cab speakers and installed a 10” sub under the rear seat. I am curious as to what others are running.

 

[nathan_h]

I installed Kenwood excelon 6x9 components in the front doors and dash

I am curious, how did you run the output of the crossover from the door to the dash?

OP, what did you go with?
I recently replaced the six cab speakers and installed a 10” sub under the rear seat. I am curious as to what others are running.

Kicker seems to be the most popular following closely by the JBL.

What did you install? Do you recommend them? Anything you'd change about the upgrade now that you have lived with it?

 

[IDSandman]

I am curious, how did you run the output of the crossover from the door to the dash?



Kicker seems to be the most popular following closely by the JBL.

What did you install? Do you recommend them? Anything you'd change about the upgrade now that you have lived with it?

What crossover?

 

[nathan_h]

My mistake. I thought you were running a component system where the woofer is in the door and the tweeter is in the dash.

 

[IDSandman]

My mistake. I thought you were running a component system where the woofer is in the door and the tweeter is in the dash.

I am still no crossover. Kicker key bi amp’d. The kicker key does all the work with the set up mic sending pink noise to each speaker to set internal xover and timing.
Nothing I would change, it cranks and is super clean n clear and hits hard. Sub box ordered, hoping to have the sub done in a few months.

 

[Spectre04]

I am curious, how did you run the output of the crossover from the door to the dash?



Kicker seems to be the most popular following closely by the JBL.

What did you install? Do you recommend them? Anything you'd change about the upgrade now that you have lived with it?

nathan_h, my current setup is:
Kicker CS 2 way 3.5 for dash (w/4ohm resistors)
Kicker KS 2 way 6x9 for both f/r doors
JL Audio JD500/1 and a 10TW1-4

I have the OEM HU eq set to:
Bass -2
Mid -5
Treble -5

I tapped into the driver rear speaker wiring inside the cab with via a RCA cable and ram that into the amp with a Y adapter.

I find the 3.5s to still be overly bright. I moved the speaker bias to the back seat by one notch, but moved it back to center shortly after. I run the volume between 20 and 28 depending on windows up/down. Overall sound quality is great, though it highlights the vast difference in recording quality and recorded EQs.

All that said, I am strongly considering a JL Audio JD400/4, PAC AP4-CH41, and some 6.5 components for the front. Since the 3.5 and 6x9 share a channel, I’d prefer to do away with whatever built in crossover ram uses and control via the one included with components.

I would love to have expanded EQ control, but I don’t want to go aftermarket HU.

 

[nathan_h]

nathan_h, my current setup is:
Kicker CS 2 way 3.5 for dash (w/4ohm resistors)
Kicker KS 2 way 6x9 for both f/r doors
JL Audio JD500/1 and a 10TW1-4

I have the OEM HU eq set to:
Bass -2
Mid -5
Treble -5

I tapped into the driver rear speaker wiring inside the cab with via a RCA cable and ram that into the amp with a Y adapter.

I find the 3.5s to still be overly bright. I moved the speaker bias to the back seat by one notch, but moved it back to center shortly after. I run the volume between 20 and 28 depending on windows up/down. Overall sound quality is great, though it highlights the vast difference in recording quality and recorded EQs.

All that said, I am strongly considering a JL Audio JD400/4, PAC AP4-CH41, and some 6.5 components for the front. Since the 3.5 and 6x9 share a channel, I’d prefer to do away with whatever built in crossover ram uses and control via the one included with components.

I would love to have expanded EQ control, but I don’t want to go aftermarket HU.

In my truck, the dash speakers appear to get a full range signal, and RAM handles that by having a little filter soldered into the input on the speaker itself (presumably a high pass filter, to keep out the bass range which the speaker could not handle).

Once I got that out, just exploring before installing anything, it because pretty apparent it would be "easy" (ie, not impossible) to new speaker wire from a crossover in the door that feeds bass to a driver in the door and treble to a tweeter in the dash. So now that the weather is getting better for projects outdoors, I will tackle that some afternoon.

 

[Spectre04]

What did you find out?