2” Lift + Wider Tires?

[NY Andrew]

I have fender flares and stock:
P275/60R20 wheels
20x9.0” rims

Looking to get a wider stance to accommodate the fender flares. Don’t want to do spacers because of the downsides and wider tires might not turn freely unless lifted.

I have Mopar Vehicle Protection plan so I’m only allowed a 2” lift..

I would assume even a 2” lift should allow for wider tires? Maybe I could even maintain my current rims?

Never done anything like this, that’s why I’m here for suggestions and tips. Not sure how soon I’d like to do this yet, but definitely will be getting done at some point. Pics would also be helpful maybe. Thanks!!

 

[ThunderMug95]

Its very possible. I am leveled with Bilstein’s and am running 305/55/20 on a 20x9 wheel with +18mm offset. Stock offset is +19 mm. That tire size would get you quite a bit wider over stock and its a 33.2” tall tire vs stock 33”.

 

[NY Andrew]

Good info! Happen to have a picture? What brand tire you go with?

 

[Tim Garceau]

9" wide -12 offset are perfect for factory flares. 10 wide -24 will separate the men from the boys though. Anything wider is just looking for paint chips and attention.

Keep in mind these tires run 13” wide so they peek a little further out.

 

[NY Andrew]

Love that color and stance Tim! So you have different rims then I’m assuming to accommodate those tires. I don’t have factory flares though I had them put on.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

I have fender flares and stock:
P275/60R20 wheels
20x9.0” rims

Looking to get a wider stance to accommodate the fender flares. Don’t want to do spacers because of the downsides and wider tires might not turn freely unless lifted.

I have Mopar Vehicle Protection plan so I’m only allowed a 2” lift..

I would assume even a 2” lift should allow for wider tires? Maybe I could even maintain my current rims?

Never done anything like this, that’s why I’m here for suggestions and tips. Not sure how soon I’d like to do this yet, but definitely will be getting done at some point. Pics would also be helpful maybe. Thanks!!

You can also keep the tires you have and order a set of wheels with the right offset to match your flares

 

[NY Andrew]

That is true, but I think the wheels would cost more than the tires and I actually sorta like the stock semi-gloss black aluminum rims. That is an alternative, but gonna see if I can find wider tires I think for my stock rims. If I were to lift it the 2” then stock tires might look off on new rims so I’ll try wider tires I think.

 

[Tim Garceau]

Love that color and stance Tim! So you have different rims then I’m assuming to accommodate those tires. I don’t have factory flares though I had them put on.

Thanks and yes, they are OEM 2500 flares I installed with color match by a mopar cert. painter. Moto Metal mo962 wheels, take a look at custom offset’s gallery if you want to see a plethora of wheel/tire/lift combos. You can run a taller wider tire on the OEM sport wheels since they are 9” wide +18 offset, but may need to use a spacer with 12.5”+ wide tires.

 

[ThunderMug95]

Heres a couple front shots, i am “flare-less” and they are Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws

 

[ThunderMug95]

They would prob just meet the edge of the flare. Tires poke out right about 3/8 - 1/2” past fender. That size will get you about the max width you will want. I have a slight rub on the trackbar, both sides at full lock. But it is very minimal.

 

[NY Andrew]

Wow those look solid! Slight rub, think that would be solved if was lifted 2”? Trying to avoid any rub. Thanks!

 

[NY Andrew]

Doin a bit of research on the lift,
“It is the ultimate buyer’s responsibility to have all bolts / nuts checked for tightness after the first 100 miles and then every 1000 miles. The steering, suspension and driveline systems, plus wheel alignment should be inspected by a qualified professional mechanic at least every 3000 miles.”

You guys with lifts really do this? Would the dealership inspect for free after the first 100 miles and then every single 1k miles for life of truck?? I can see the 3k miles list being done with tire rotations, but a bit confused why all that would have to be done so regularly yet the main stock OEM parts don’t have to be.. Maybe I’d be best with just wider wheels then..

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Doin a bit of research on the lift,
“It is the ultimate buyer’s responsibility to have all bolts / nuts checked for tightness after the first 100 miles and then every 1000 miles. The steering, suspension and driveline systems, plus wheel alignment should be inspected by a qualified professional mechanic at least every 3000 miles.”

You guys with lifts really do this? Would the dealership inspect for free after the first 100 miles and then every single 1k miles for life of truck?? I can see the 3k miles list being done with tire rotations, but a bit confused why all that would have to be done so regularly yet the main stock OEM parts don’t have to be.. Maybe I’d be best with just wider wheels then..

That is legal language to insure they can say they won't grant your claim unless you bring them proof that you spent $70-$120 putting your truck on the alignment rack every 3000 miles.
Most lift kits recommend re torqueing all bolts after 500 miles and that's it. If you're just looking at a 2" level that is not a lift just replacing the front struts

 

[NY Andrew]

That is legal language to insure they can say they won't grant your claim unless you bring them proof that you spent $70-$120 putting your truck on the alignment rack every 3000 miles.
Most lift kits recommend re torqueing all bolts after 500 miles and that's it. If you're just looking at a 2" level that is not a lift just replacing the front struts

True.

And no, it’s a lift according to their website, struts AND shocks for Mopar Bilstein

 

[ThunderMug95]

Wow those look solid! Slight rub, think that would be solved if was lifted 2”? Trying to avoid any rub. Thanks!

Im on bilsteins at 2.1 which equalled 2.5 or so inches in front and 1.5” coil spacer in rear. So technically I m lifted higher than you considering. The rub comes from width of tire regardless of the lift. These tires on a zero offset rim wouldnt touch.

 

[NY Andrew]

Im on bilsteins at 2.1 which equalled 2.5 or so inches in front and 1.5” coil spacer in rear. So technically I m lifted higher than you considering. The rub comes from width of tire regardless of the lift. These tires on a zero offset rim wouldnt touch.

Interesting, wasn’t aware that being lifted wouldn’t solve tire width rubbing. Good to know, then I’ll prob skip on the lift then maybe since 2” isn’t even much to begin with considering how much it’ll be..

 

[ThunderMug95]

305 would be the absolute widest you want to go on stock wheels for absolutely no rub. Maybe a 295/55 or 295/60 wouldnt touch

 

[ThunderMug95]

If you are a driving enthusiast, absolutely Bilstein level to 2.1. It tightens up the coil by preloading it, stiffer, sportier ride. And takes out the factory nose droop.

 

[ThunderMug95]

Pair it with Bil’s in be rear or even add a Helwig rear swaybar and the truck will feel like it wants to eat corners

 

[quietpeen]

without wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels with less positive offset you can not fit any tire wide enough to fill out fender flares how you would like. You will rub the upper control arm before there is worry of needing to lift due to rubbing the fender.

Start adding height to the tire on top of wider and pushing the wheel out for a wider stance and you add the need for more lift.

for instance......i had 20x10 wheels with -24 mm offset(4.5" backspacing) and 33x12.5x20 tires on my truck before I added bilsteins at 2.1 and only had slight rubbing...after leveling no rubbing. Now I have 20x10 with -12 mm offset (5" backspacing) with 295/60/20 tires (roughly 34x12x20) and still have bilsteins set at 2.1 and I have slight rubbing