2010 2500 Brake Issue

[JcsMI]

So I just purchased a 2010 2500 and I am having a brake problem. The front caliper on the passenger side is intermittently locking and then relasing.
I was hearing grinding several days ago now its mostly a high pitched squeak when pulling into or out of a parking spot. I checked the brake fluid. I ordered new pads. A few times now it has locked completely while beginning to move from a standstill. It releases almost immediately. I'd like to know what I should do? I do not want to buy a caliper if it is not the caliper. I am going to replace the pads. Also jist today the pedal now will go to the floor. It won't stay like that. A few more seconds after taking my foot off it has pressure again. But today I noticed 3-4 times that it went to the floor. Mostly at slow speed. When just getting going. Please help if you can

 

[tron67j]

You need to NOT drive that and have it towed to a trusted mechanic. You need someone to inspect the entire system. Troubleshooting such an important system as your brakes via the Internet is a recipe for disaster.

 

[rzr6-4]

I know you're trying not to waste your money on a caliper if that's not it but I can assure you that pads is a waste of money. It's obviously a much deeper issue. Sounds like either a vacuum booster or master cylinder going out, not sure which system is in yours.

Could be other issues as well but that's the first thing that comes to mind.

 

[JcsMI]

This is the thing. It happens only on one wheel. If it were multiple wheels I'd say brake booster or master cylinder. Why would only one wheel be affected?

 

[04fxdwgi]

Caliper or deteriorating flex line to the caliper. Have had to change the flex link on many vehicles, as it goes bad on the inside and you don't see it.

 

[JcsMI]

So two problems. The caliper was shot. There was no brake pad on the inner side of the caliper. It was completely disintergrated. And the caliper cannot be compressed. But here is the other problem. I topped off the system with DOT4 several days ago. The resevoir was a inch below the line. So I filled to the line. And that may be why the pedal goes to the floor. It did not seem like a lot. What am I supposed to do now? I am going to do caliper and rotor replacement as the rotor inner side was destroyed as there was no pad. The calipers were warped and worn unevenly at the piston ends. There were metal rings fused to the rotor ends. My thing is what do I do now about the DOT 4. An inch below the resvevoir line is how much I added. I was on autozone dot com and when I went to look up brake fluid prices it said under DOT4. This fits your Dodge Ram. Then I search engined it and it said DOT4 also. But I think the cap says DOT3 only

 

[RamDiver]

So two problems. The caliper was shot. There was no brake pad on the inner side of the caliper. It was completely disintergrated. And the caliper cannot be compressed. But here is the other problem. I topped off the system with DOT4 several days ago. The resevoir was a inch below the line. So I filled to the line. And that may be why the pedal goes to the floor. It did not seem like a lot. What am I supposed to do now? I am going to do caliper and rotor replacement as the rotor inner side was destroyed as there was no pad. The calipers were warped and worn unevenly at the piston ends. There were metal rings fused to the rotor ends. My thing is what do I do now about the DOT 4. An inch below the resvevoir line is how much I added. I was on autozone dot com and when I went to look up brake fluid prices it said under DOT4. This fits your Dodge Ram. Then I search engined it and it said DOT4 also. But I think the cap says DOT3 only

Adding DOT 4 to a DOT 3 system is no problem. DOT 4 has a slightly higher boiling point and is a bit more performance-rated than DOT 3.

What’s the Difference Between DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5 Break Fluid? - Valvoline™ Global

Understanding the different types of brake fluid and maintenance requirements is vital for performance and safety.

www.valvolineglobal.com

Both sets of front pads should be changed at the same time, and unless the rotor on the other side is in near-new condition, I would replace the front rotors as a set, too. If you plan to replace only 1 front calliper, the calliper that is not being replaced should be fully serviced.

Fully serviced, meaning pull the calliper, remove the pads, clean and lube the slide pins, inspect the piston for scoring and piston seal for leakage, and clean and lube the brake pad contact area. I usually buy a brake pad hardware set that includes spring clips. The hardware is cheap and doesn't do well with a R&R.

And to tell you the truth, I'm all for being frugal, but my time is also valuable. Do the entire job once, and be done with it. Doing a half-assed job is a big waste of time. Brakes are a critical component and not worth being stupidly cheap about the task.

If the master cylinder is filled to the line and you're adding new pads, you may want to syphon out a bit of fluid with a turkey baster or large syringe. Brake fluid is not something you want spilled inside the engine bay. Leave the cap ajar while you're compressing the calliper pistons.

Open the cap on the master cylinder, at a minimum, and place rags underneath to catch the potential overflow.

Have you completed any brake work before?


And to Ram Forum.

.

 

[Daw14]

You should replace both calipers, rotors,pads.

What you do on one side should be done on the opposite side.
This is to ensure even braking , and help prevent pulling .
If you get in a bad situation and have to slam your brakes on with full force , you do not want your vehicle darting into oncoming traffic.

 

[JcsMI]

Got it fixed. Thank you all