2011 Ram 1500 cylinder misfire - P0300 P0303 C1242

[Burla]

Geez, it's because I wasn't using the right kind of synthetic oil? I've used SuperTech in all my vehicles and didn't think it made that big of a difference. I guess Mobile 1 Super Synthetic is what I'll use from now on. Kind of surprised quaker state and pennzoil are considered the good ones.

I'm pretty sure the dealer is changing out my oil now. Should I change my oil again in a few hundred miles just to make sure I don't have any more junk in the engine?

Does anyone ever put marvel mystery oil in each oil change? Are there other ways to prevent cam/lifter failure?

No sir, it isn't because the oil you used, it is because the fk tards at FCA have poor quality control. However, high moly oils have quieted ticks and knocks, if that translates to avoiding the failure, nobody knows. But in many of our opinions, is worth a shot.

Not likely marvel mystery oil will prevent knock or tick or lifter failure. It has been known to quiet ticks from time to time, but there is no meaningful film strength to that product, and no meaningful detergency. It is worth a shot, but I believe there to be better options. Things you may want to look at and research is film strength as in 5w20 versus 5w30 or even 0w40, anti wear additives, extreme pressure additives, base oils, and detergency both natural as in esters or chemical as in PUP. It is a new theory that lubrication might be an answer to solve the problem with sparce formulations, which is a new thing as far as the oil world goes. To learn more about CAFE that is tanking oil formulations, see U&A's suggestion Syn thread. As for being able to prevent lifter/cam damage, maybe buy a truck that is not prone to have this issue in the first place. Or try using a quality oil and hope for the best, seams to be many of our strategy. There is no perfect answer on this one, lifter/Cam problems are a well known issue with Rams, all the way up to current years. Any 4 gen is at risk, I don't follow earlier then that.

Super tech is a fine choice for many engines, but if you research the hemi, maybe not so much. Or maybe look at adding a moly substitute like lube guards biotech, or run redline that has worked for many of us.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Is moly an expensive additive when the oil company's are blending their oils? I can understand some have a little more or less by brand name but what's up with the ones that are just completely cutting it out all together?

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[U&A]

Is moly an expensive additive when the oil company's are blending their oils? I can understand some have a little more or less by brand name but what's up with the ones that are just completely cutting it out all together?

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From what iv seen it is a fairly expensive additive for the oil blenders/manufactures. Organic moly ( most common, including redline) being the most economical being it works well and is not the most expensive. Tri-nuclear Moly is way more expensive.....but is more effective.

The only oil that I personally know has an unsaid percentage of tri-nuclear moly is PUP

And as fare as some companies not using it at all... IMO they dont do it if they dont have too. Most engines get good/“acceptable” wear numbers with low moly or even no moly oils. So they are going to cut the additives as much as possible for profit.

That is why they call oils like Redline “ boutique oils”

This is all JMO

 

[Ramnewbie]

Does all the PUP have the Tri nuclear moly or just the 0/40?


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[Hemi395]

I believe the answer is yes, all PUP has TNM. But that's never been "officially" confirmed.....

 

[rwreuter]

I found an updated version on the same site. here's one with results from 2016: http://www.pqiadata.org/SAE5W20SamplesTest2016.html

 

[U&A]

^^^

PYB still rockin it with 180+ ppm of moly. If i had to pick just one oil on that list ( even though 20w oil sucks and i never would) it would be PYB or Castrol Edge. The Noack is not the best on the PYB but hay... its a true conventional .

Castrol really does look pretty strong though. Hell RP actually look reasonable too. Surprisingly.

 

[rwreuter]

Doesn't the manual for 5.7 hemi recommend 5w-20?

 

[Ramnewbie]

Doesn't the manual for 5.7 hemi recommend 5w-20?

For most, yes it does "recommend" 5/20. If you're gonna run 5/20 I'd make sure to choose one that has lots of moly and zddp. Alot on here run 5/30 with no problems and as a general rule the 5/30's have a more robust formula, but still make sure you're getting moly and zddp. This is strictly my opinion but I think some of the issues with cam/ lifters is caused by the 5/20 oil, then if you're short on moly and zddp that's just a double whammy.

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[smiley]

So I had two mechanics quote me for about $5500 and they were both pushing me to get a rebuilt engine in it. That would be about $7500. The ram dealer said it might just be a bad lifter and if so, they would just replace the lifters on that side only for about $2500. They told me they'd get back to me once they have the thing ripped apart.

They called me up this morning to let me know that it indeed was a bad cam and it would be $3,800 for a new cam/lifters with a 2 year unlimited mileage warrantee. They also needed to fix the manifold bolts and will change the transmission fluid (It was due so I asked them to do it).

TBH I'm very disappointed. My family has had a lot of ram trucks and this is the first time we've had to replace an engine. I had a jeep cherokee with 285,000 miles and never had to replace the engine/transmission. I thought a newer engine on a new truck would last much longer.

After looking through the forum it's pretty obvious that this is a huge issue with the 5.7. My question is now that it's fixed do I have to worry that the cam will fail again in another 100,000 miles? Do I have to worry about something else going wrong?

Both mechanics also suggested that I trade it in for a Tundra because they never have to fix those.

Let’s be fair they don’t see Tundra because they don’t sell many. Let’s look at 2011 sales since that seems to be a bad year for lifters.

If Ram sold double the trucks each year you will likely see more Rams. The same should be true of Ford vs any brand.

http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2012/02/2011-pickup-truck-sales-recap.html

 

[Burla]

Doesn't the manual for 5.7 hemi recommend 5w-20?

You have to ask why do they recommend 5w20? And you have to ask why API 5w20 oils have low additives that protect your metal. The answer is the gov't forces manu's into 5w20 to meet CAFE fuel economy goals, and low additives because they say zinc is bad for global warming or some stupid ****.

The gov't relaxes those requirements for 0w40 oils because they consider those heavy duty. However, many of us believe our 1500's to have similar needs for lubrication as the HD trucks do. Read the syn thread for more detailed info, make an informed choice. GL, Burla

 

[SLT617]

No sir, it isn't because the oil you used, it is because the fk tards at FCA have poor quality control. However, high moly oils have quieted ticks and knocks, if that translates to avoiding the failure, nobody knows. But in many of our opinions, is worth a shot.

Not likely marvel mystery oil will prevent knock or tick or lifter failure. It has been known to quiet ticks from time to time, but there is no meaningful film strength to that product, and no meaningful detergency. It is worth a shot, but I believe there to be better options. Things you may want to look at and research is film strength as in 5w20 versus 5w30 or even 0w40, anti wear additives, extreme pressure additives, base oils, and detergency both natural as in esters or chemical as in PUP. It is a new theory that lubrication might be an answer to solve the problem with sparce formulations, which is a new thing as far as the oil world goes. To learn more about CAFE that is tanking oil formulations, see U&A's suggestion Syn thread. As for being able to prevent lifter/cam damage, maybe buy a truck that is not prone to have this issue in the first place. Or try using a quality oil and hope for the best, seams to be many of our strategy. There is no perfect answer on this one, lifter/Cam problems are a well known issue with Rams, all the way up to current years. Any 4 gen is at risk, I don't follow earlier then that.

Super tech is a fine choice for many engines, but if you research the hemi, maybe not so much. Or maybe look at adding a moly substitute like lube guards biotech, or run redline that has worked for many of us.

Well since the lifters/cam have been fixed in my Ram, should I assume it will last now or will I have this issue again a few years down the road no matter what I do? I also don't see how Chevy or Ford engines would be any better, TBH. They all seem to be on the same level to me. I'd guess diesel engines last a lot longer though. I'd lean toward the Cummins but I'm totally biased and fully admit it. I've had several customers with Ram 3500 diesels that had 500,000+ miles and still on the original engine/tranny. Part of me thinks the Tundra would last the longest but the design, mpg, towing, etc seem to be sub-par. Chevy has surprisingly stood out to me. I might want to look into a high country for my next truck.

I just researched oil and ended up with more questions than answers. conventional vs synthetic? 5w20 vs 0w20? Amsoil? Royal Purple? etc etc etc. I can't find a consensus but I'll probably go mobil1 syn (becasue that's what the mopar oil is for ram) or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. (That's PUP, right?) I have a farm and regularly haul hay/machinery so synthetic seems to be the best option for me. Biggest annoyance is that I have to drive 3k with conventional oil and can't tow anything while the engine breaks in. Luckily my dad has a 3500 Laramie Longhorn so I'll have to use it to pick up some equipment I just purchased.

$4k isn't the end of the world, but like I said earlier I'm pretty disappointed. I thought for sure I could at least break 200k on the original engine.

 

[Burla]

Most group 3 (what you know as synthetic) oils are close to identical due to the new LSPI spec, I would just look for some moly. Costco deal on m1 is really good oil, I think right now it is 27.99 they just raised the sale price from 26.99. Still just over 4 bucks a qrt for group 3 is a good choice, maybe get the 5w30. PUP 5w30 is another great choice, but it is hard to get and costs more usually. Stick with m1 costco deal.