2011 Ram 6 speed, manual stuck in neutral/ instrument, panel and gauges not working

[Riman001]

First off my truck has been running perfectly, parked it in my drive after a short 30 mile trip. I went out to start it the next morning and, my 2011 ram 2500 is basically stuck in neutral, and my instrument panel and gauges stopped working. Trailer brake flashing CF. No trailer is connected.
Truck starts just fine. You can shift from gear to gear without pushing in the clutch. I have pushed and held the neutral switch below the four-wheel-drive dial multiple times, put it in four-wheel-drive took it out. I did get it to work temporarily, drove it around the block for about 15 minutes although Instrument panel and gauges still not working.
I ran out and tried it again today and it’s back in neutral and I can’t seem to get it back in gear no matter what I try with 4x4 or neutral switch.

I have checked every fuse and relay. Nothing bad. Disconnected battery cables for 15 minutes, no luck. Pulled the fuse box module, cleaned all the plugs and connections with electrical cleaner.
I connected my code reader. Only code is exhaust recirculating temp, which was over a year ago.
if anyone has any information, I would greatly appreciate the help! View attachment 633080
View attachment 633081

 

[Jeepwalker]

Just curious if you went under the pickup and checked the tranny & xfer case connectors & harnesses for damage or corrosion? I guess if there was some, it would probably set a code. But I would still investigate them.

On your scanner, if it can read real-time readings, sit there & push the brake pedal a bunch of times and watch the brake switch reading on the scanner as you push, to ensure the switch is 'making' ...in the computers 'eye'. In other words, is the computer recognizing brake switch and the other relevant transmission/transfer case switches? I had a situation where a B switch was flaking out every once in a while and caused some issues and mostly dash lights.

Wiggle wires under the dash at the WIN module (behind the key) and the 4x4 switch. I'm guessing you probably already did that. WIN module's have been known to develop cracked solder joints (among other things). I haven't heard it cause what you're experiencing, but who knows.... I'm just tossing out ideas...

 

[crash68]

You can shift from gear to gear without pushing in the clutch.

If you can shift gears including reverse without pushing the clutch pedal, the problem is probably with the clutch. It's either blown out or stuck and not engaging. Time to pull the inspection access for the clutch.
Also possible the shifting linkage or forks may also have come apart.

 

[Riman001]

If you can shift gears including reverse without pushing the clutch pedal, the problem is probably with the clutch. It's either blown out or stuck and not engaging. Time to pull the inspection access for the clutch.
Also possible the shifting linkage or forks may also have come apart.

I just had a new clutch put in it last year and when you push in on the clutch, you can hear everything stop in the transmission. When it did work the other day, the clutch worked fine. Also, there’s been no indication that the clutch is slipping or going out. I’m not sure if the instrument panel and gauges are directly correlated to the neutral problem but I kind of feel like it is all connected.

 

[Riman001]

Just curious if you went under the pickup and checked the tranny & xfer case connectors & harnesses for damage or corrosion? I guess if there was some, it would probably set a code. But I would still investigate them.

On your scanner, if it can read real-time readings, sit there & push the brake pedal a bunch of times and watch the brake switch reading on the scanner as you push, to ensure the switch is 'making' ...in the computers 'eye'. In other words, is the computer recognizing brake switch and the other relevant transmission/transfer case switches? I had a situation where a B switch was flaking out every once in a while and caused some issues and mostly dash lights.

Wiggle wires under the dash at the WIN module (behind the key) and the 4x4 switch. I'm guessing you probably already did that. WIN module's have been known to develop cracked solder joints (among other things). I haven't heard it cause what you're experiencing, but who knows.... I'm just tossing out ideas...

I have wiggled a few wires, but I think I will put some more time into that today and see if something changes. It seems so strange that everything worked perfectly when I stopped the truck and the next morning nothing works. We have had a cold spell, and I wonder if that isn’t causing some problems. I’m going to check all the fluid levels to see if that has anything to do with the truck not Going into gear not sure what to do about the instrument panel at this point. I kind of thought that would be some type of relay or fuse, but I can’t seem to track anything down.

 

[crash68]

when you push in on the clutch, you can hear everything stop in the transmission.

If the clutch is working, look to the transfer case. It can disengage the power to the rear wheels. If there's electrical issues that could be associated with the transfer case if ity electrically shifted.

 

[Riman001]

If the clutch is working, look to the transfer case. It can disengage the power to the rear wheels. If there's electrical issues that could be associated with the transfer case if ity electrically shifted.

I checked everything on the transfer case cannot find any loose wires or corrosion. I think the instrument panel and gauges must also have an effect on the neutral button below the four-wheel-drive knob because the light will not come on. I wonder if it automatically shift into neutral when power is disconnected like it is.

 

[Jeepwalker]

The gauges not working sounds fishy. That usually points to a flaky battery or batt connections. But you say your truck starts ok? Sounds like you've addressed the usual battery issues.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Have you tried doiing general Google search? Or search "Forums" in google?

 

[crash68]

I wonder if it automatically shift into neutral when power is disconnected like it is.

A transfer case will stay in the last commanded position (Hi, Low, 2WD, or neutral). Only the 1500s with the BW44-44 will disengage the front axle when the truck is turned off.
The transfer case actuator is probably not moving and stuck in neutral, the connections can be tight but the pins can be loose or broken wiring.

 

[Riman001]

I figured out the problem. I removed the instrument/ gauge panel on the dash. Cleaned and blew it out including plugs etc, reinstalled it and everything works now. Apparently when the displays and gauges loose power it automatically puts the truck in neutral. Once the power was reconnected the neutral switch now works and I push and held it until the light went off. Thanks everyone for your help on this. Appreciate the responses.

 

[Riman001]

I figured out the problem. I removed the instrument/ gauge panel on the dash. Cleaned and blew it out including plugs etc, reinstalled it and everything works now. Apparently when the displays and gauges loose power it automatically puts the truck in neutral. Once the power was reconnected the neutral switch now works and I push and held it until the light went off. Thanks everyone for your help on this. Appreciate the responses.