2012 Ram 2500 6.7L No Gears..report attached

[johnnyd34]

Hello to all. I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7L. I was towing an RV from PA to Arizona. I got within an hour of arriving when the truck just lost gears. While driving it felt like it was piut in neutral. Prior to leaving I did have a weird issue for a few weeks where the Tow/Haul button, steering wheel controls and dome lights would work any longer. I left and drove as is. I drove for 18 hours before this happened. I have done the following so far. Checked ALL fuses, checked fluid levels, disconnected the battery for hours, ran Autel diagnostics, dropped the 68RFE tranny pan and everyhing seems fine and very clean in there. I checked tranny fluid before starting and after and it does get lower. I tried moving it in park and it wont move. I ordered new tranny filters, tranny fluid and gasket which arrives monday. I have no clue whats up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Ken226]

Hello to all. I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7L. I was towing an RV from PA to Arizona. I got within an hour of arriving when the truck just lost gears. While driving it felt like it was piut in neutral. Prior to leaving I did have a weird issue for a few weeks where the Tow/Haul button, steering wheel controls and dome lights would work any longer. I left and drove as is. I drove for 18 hours before this happened. I have done the following so far. Checked ALL fuses, checked fluid levels, disconnected the battery for hours, ran Autel diagnostics, dropped the 68RFE tranny pan and everyhing seems fine and very clean in there. I checked tranny fluid before starting and after and it does get lower. I tried moving it in park and it wont move. I ordered new tranny filters, tranny fluid and gasket which arrives monday. I have no clue whats up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

There are a lot of voltage below threshold codes in that report. Dual battery system?

Did you by chance disconnect one of the batteries with the key switched on to set all those low voltage codes?

A battery that has **** the bed will cause a lot of issues.

Have your batteries load tested, then either charged or replaced, or the alternators fixed.

Once the charging system is fixed, clear the codes, drive it, and re scan for codes.

 

[johnnyd34]

hello Ken. I just put 2 breand new batteries in with an upgraded alternator and the big 3 wiring upgrade. Its been using those for about 3 months prior to dying. I put 2 of these in it. It is Dualk Batteries

XS Power D4800 3000 Amp AGM Battery with M6 Terminal Hardware - 12 Volt 72Ah 950CA Deep Cycle AGM Powercell for Winch, Car Audio Systems​

 

[johnnyd34]

The XS Power D4800 is a direct-fit replacement for the current and previous Rams, and Duramax trucks since 2008

 

[GeauxinUp]

The XS Power D4800 is a direct-fit replacement for the current and previous Rams, and Duramax trucks since 2008

Just for fun, I threw your pdf into Grok and asked what it's thoughts were...


### Likely Root Causes
1. **Battery or Charging System Issue**:
- A weak battery, failing alternator, or loose battery connection could cause the low voltage codes (B2199-16, B210D, etc.), leading to communication issues (U0100, U0184, etc.) and sensor errors (B1602, B1472, etc.).
- **Evidence**: Multiple modules report low voltage, and communication issues are widespread.

2. **Grounding Issue**:
- A loose or corroded ground (e.g., battery-to-chassis, battery-to-engine, or TIPM ground) could cause voltage drops, triggering the low voltage and communication codes, as well as sensor circuit issues.
- **Evidence**: The variety of codes across unrelated systems suggests a systemic electrical issue, often tied to grounding.

3. **TIPM Failure**:
- The TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) manages power distribution and communication between modules. A failing TIPM can cause low voltage, communication losses, and sensor circuit issues, as seen in many 2010–2014 Dodge Rams (per DodgeTalk.com threads).
- **Evidence**: Codes like U0431-00 (implausible data from IPM) and widespread communication issues (U0100, U0184) point to a potential TIPM problem.

4. **Wiring or Connector Issue**:
- A damaged wiring harness or loose connector (e.g., at the ECM/PCM, TIPM, or battery) could cause the communication and sensor issues. This might have occurred during recent maintenance or due to age (the truck is a 2012 model).
- **Evidence**: The variety of sensor circuit codes (high, low, open, short) across multiple systems suggests a wiring or connector issue.

### Steps to Resolve the DTCs
#### 1. Test Battery and Charging System
- **Battery Voltage**: Use a multimeter to check battery voltage with the engine off (should be ~12.6V) and running (should be 13.8–14.4V). A weak battery or alternator issue could cause the low voltage codes.
- **Load Test**: Perform a load test on the battery to ensure it holds a charge. A failing battery can cause voltage drops, triggering these codes.
- **Alternator Output**: Ensure the alternator is charging properly. If voltage drops below 12V while running, it could be the root cause.

#### 2. Inspect Grounds and Wiring
- **Check Ground Connections**:
- Battery-to-chassis ground (typically on the frame near the battery).
- Battery-to-engine ground (on the engine block).
- TIPM ground (on the firewall or chassis).
- Look for corrosion, looseness, or damage, and clean/tighten as needed.
- **Inspect Wiring Harnesses**:
- Check the ECM/PCM connectors (C1, C2) for bent pins, corrosion, or loose connections.
- Inspect the TIPM connectors and wiring for damage.
- Look for damaged or pinched wires in the main harness, especially near the battery, ECM/PCM, and TIPM.

#### 3. Test the TIPM
- **TIPM Diagnostics**: Use a scan tool to check TIPM communication and power distribution. If the TIPM is failing, it may need replacement (a common issue in 2010–2014 Rams, often costing $500–$1,000 including labor).
- **Power and Ground at TIPM**: Use a multimeter to check voltage and ground at the TIPM. Low voltage or poor ground can cause the communication and sensor issues.

#### 4. Clear DTCs and Recheck
- **Clear Codes**: Use your scan tool (Autel MaxiIM IM508) to clear all DTCs.
- **Drive and Recheck**: Drive the truck for 10–20 miles to see if the codes return. If they don’t, the issue may have been a temporary glitch. If they return, proceed with further diagnostics.
- **Log Data**: Log battery voltage, CAN bus communication, and sensor data (e.g., wheel speed, solar sensors) to confirm they’re within spec.

#### 5. Address Specific Codes
- **C1020 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor)**: Inspect the left rear wheel speed sensor and its wiring for damage or disconnection. Test the sensor resistance (typically 1,000–2,000 ohms) and voltage (should vary with wheel rotation).
- **B1296-11 (PTS Sensor 9)**: Inspect the parktronic sensor 9 (likely a rear parking sensor) for a short to ground. Check the wiring and connector for damage.
- **AMP Codes (B1472, B1477, etc.)**: The audio speaker output circuit open codes suggest a wiring issue or disconnected speakers. Check the speaker wiring harnesses for opens or disconnections.
- **HSM Codes (B1EB3-1B, B1EB4-1B)**: The heated seat sensor codes indicate high resistance, likely due to a wiring issue or sensor failure. Inspect the rear seat heater wiring and sensors.

#### 6. Complete Drive Cycles
Once the DTCs are resolved, drive the truck through various conditions (e.g., cold start, steady speeds, stop-and-go) to complete the readiness monitors. This typically takes 50–100 miles of mixed driving.

### Recommendation for Your Friend’s Truck
The common link among these DTCs is **low battery voltage and potential grounding or TIPM issues**. Start by:
1. Testing the battery and charging system (multimeter: 12.6V off, 13.8–14.4V running).
2. Inspecting and cleaning/tightening all grounds (battery-to-chassis, battery-to-engine, TIPM).
3. Checking the ECM/PCM and TIPM connectors for damage or loose connections.
4. Clearing the DTCs and driving to see if they return, logging data to confirm voltage stability.

If the codes persist, test the TIPM for proper operation and consider replacing it if necessary. Then address specific codes like C1020 and B1296-11 by inspecting the respective sensors and wiring.

 

[Ken226]

hello Ken. I just put 2 breand new batteries in with an upgraded alternator and the big 3 wiring upgrade. Its been using those for about 3 months prior to dying. I put 2 of these in it. It is Dualk Batteries

XS Power D4800 3000 Amp AGM Battery with M6 Terminal Hardware - 12 Volt 72Ah 950CA Deep Cycle AGM Powercell for Winch, Car Audio Systems​

A coworker of mine bought 2 new batteries at Costco for his 2500.

He spent 3 months chasing "parasitic discharge" issues. I suggested he have the batteries load tested (word LOAD included on purpose) multiple times.

His evidence that the batteries weren't the problem was the fact that they were new. When I finally convinced him to load test them (harbor freight toaster style), 1 of them was bad.

The bad one was pulling down the other.


Don't assume, don't guess. Test. Factor out variables based on probability.

Once the more likely culprit tests good (load test, NOT volt test), then you can move on to less likely candidates. I'd start the testing with Battery>if good>Alternator. Because these tests are so cheap, they may as well be free.

Once these systems are TESTED and confirmed good, you can move on to the spensive ****.

Guessing, as a method of diagnosis, is the style I've had the least luck with.

 

[johnnyd34]

Just for fun, I threw your pdf into Grok and asked what it's thoughts were...


### Likely Root Causes
1. **Battery or Charging System Issue**:
- A weak battery, failing alternator, or loose battery connection could cause the low voltage codes (B2199-16, B210D, etc.), leading to communication issues (U0100, U0184, etc.) and sensor errors (B1602, B1472, etc.).
- **Evidence**: Multiple modules report low voltage, and communication issues are widespread.

2. **Grounding Issue**:
- A loose or corroded ground (e.g., battery-to-chassis, battery-to-engine, or TIPM ground) could cause voltage drops, triggering the low voltage and communication codes, as well as sensor circuit issues.
- **Evidence**: The variety of codes across unrelated systems suggests a systemic electrical issue, often tied to grounding.

3. **TIPM Failure**:
- The TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) manages power distribution and communication between modules. A failing TIPM can cause low voltage, communication losses, and sensor circuit issues, as seen in many 2010–2014 Dodge Rams (per DodgeTalk.com threads).
- **Evidence**: Codes like U0431-00 (implausible data from IPM) and widespread communication issues (U0100, U0184) point to a potential TIPM problem.

4. **Wiring or Connector Issue**:
- A damaged wiring harness or loose connector (e.g., at the ECM/PCM, TIPM, or battery) could cause the communication and sensor issues. This might have occurred during recent maintenance or due to age (the truck is a 2012 model).
- **Evidence**: The variety of sensor circuit codes (high, low, open, short) across multiple systems suggests a wiring or connector issue.

### Steps to Resolve the DTCs
#### 1. Test Battery and Charging System
- **Battery Voltage**: Use a multimeter to check battery voltage with the engine off (should be ~12.6V) and running (should be 13.8–14.4V). A weak battery or alternator issue could cause the low voltage codes.
- **Load Test**: Perform a load test on the battery to ensure it holds a charge. A failing battery can cause voltage drops, triggering these codes.
- **Alternator Output**: Ensure the alternator is charging properly. If voltage drops below 12V while running, it could be the root cause.

#### 2. Inspect Grounds and Wiring
- **Check Ground Connections**:
- Battery-to-chassis ground (typically on the frame near the battery).
- Battery-to-engine ground (on the engine block).
- TIPM ground (on the firewall or chassis).
- Look for corrosion, looseness, or damage, and clean/tighten as needed.
- **Inspect Wiring Harnesses**:
- Check the ECM/PCM connectors (C1, C2) for bent pins, corrosion, or loose connections.
- Inspect the TIPM connectors and wiring for damage.
- Look for damaged or pinched wires in the main harness, especially near the battery, ECM/PCM, and TIPM.

#### 3. Test the TIPM
- **TIPM Diagnostics**: Use a scan tool to check TIPM communication and power distribution. If the TIPM is failing, it may need replacement (a common issue in 2010–2014 Rams, often costing $500–$1,000 including labor).
- **Power and Ground at TIPM**: Use a multimeter to check voltage and ground at the TIPM. Low voltage or poor ground can cause the communication and sensor issues.

#### 4. Clear DTCs and Recheck
- **Clear Codes**: Use your scan tool (Autel MaxiIM IM508) to clear all DTCs.
- **Drive and Recheck**: Drive the truck for 10–20 miles to see if the codes return. If they don’t, the issue may have been a temporary glitch. If they return, proceed with further diagnostics.
- **Log Data**: Log battery voltage, CAN bus communication, and sensor data (e.g., wheel speed, solar sensors) to confirm they’re within spec.

#### 5. Address Specific Codes
- **C1020 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor)**: Inspect the left rear wheel speed sensor and its wiring for damage or disconnection. Test the sensor resistance (typically 1,000–2,000 ohms) and voltage (should vary with wheel rotation).
- **B1296-11 (PTS Sensor 9)**: Inspect the parktronic sensor 9 (likely a rear parking sensor) for a short to ground. Check the wiring and connector for damage.
- **AMP Codes (B1472, B1477, etc.)**: The audio speaker output circuit open codes suggest a wiring issue or disconnected speakers. Check the speaker wiring harnesses for opens or disconnections.
- **HSM Codes (B1EB3-1B, B1EB4-1B)**: The heated seat sensor codes indicate high resistance, likely due to a wiring issue or sensor failure. Inspect the rear seat heater wiring and sensors.

#### 6. Complete Drive Cycles
Once the DTCs are resolved, drive the truck through various conditions (e.g., cold start, steady speeds, stop-and-go) to complete the readiness monitors. This typically takes 50–100 miles of mixed driving.

### Recommendation for Your Friend’s Truck
The common link among these DTCs is **low battery voltage and potential grounding or TIPM issues**. Start by:
1. Testing the battery and charging system (multimeter: 12.6V off, 13.8–14.4V running).
2. Inspecting and cleaning/tightening all grounds (battery-to-chassis, battery-to-engine, TIPM).
3. Checking the ECM/PCM and TIPM connectors for damage or loose connections.
4. Clearing the DTCs and driving to see if they return, logging data to confirm voltage stability.

If the codes persist, test the TIPM for proper operation and consider replacing it if necessary. Then address specific codes like C1020 and B1296-11 by inspecting the respective sensors and wiring.

So do you think any of these would cause my truxck not to move in any gear?

 

[Ken226]

So do you think any of these would cause my truxck not to move in any gear?

I'm not very familiar with the 68RFE, assuming that's what you have. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

My 65rfe is fairly similar, and it is pretty much 100% computer controlled.

If it's anything like everything else made in the past couple decades, it is likely controlled by one of those computers that are listed offline or not communicating in your .pdf. The solenoids and clutches inside it are told when to shift, engage and disengage by either the PCM or a separate TCM.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Hello to all. I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7L. I was towing an RV from PA to Arizona. I got within an hour of arriving when the truck just lost gears. While driving it felt like it was piut in neutral. Prior to leaving I did have a weird issue for a few weeks where the Tow/Haul button, steering wheel controls and dome lights would work any longer. I left and drove as is. I drove for 18 hours before this happened. I have done the following so far. Checked ALL fuses, checked fluid levels, disconnected the battery for hours, ran Autel diagnostics, dropped the 68RFE tranny pan and everyhing seems fine and very clean in there. I checked tranny fluid before starting and after and it does get lower. I tried moving it in park and it wont move. I ordered new tranny filters, tranny fluid and gasket which arrives monday. I have no clue whats up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

There are a few simple things that can be done to determine if you are looking in the right direction.

First, I would jack up the rear wheels and release the parking brake. Then, put the transmission shift lever in the "D" position and look under the truck to see if the driveshaft is spinning. IF the driveshaft is spinning and the rear wheels are not then we need to take a look at the rear axle. This would not be the first truck I have seen or worked on that had a failed helical gear in the limited slip causing a loss of forward/backward movement.

IF this truck is 2WD and you still have access to the Autel scan tool go take a look at the transmission live data and post the CVI data. CVI stands for Clutch Volume Index and it is a direct correlation to how much fluid it takes to apply each clutch in the transmission. IF the CVI's are normal then we need to see what the TRS or Transmission Range Switch says when the shift lever is moved from the Park position all the way to the "D" position. Seeing this data for the TRS will tell you if the ECM is receiving the TRS data and sending the proper data to the solenoid pack to apply each solenoid for clutch application.

If the driveshaft is not spinning and the truck is 4WD, verify that the transfer case is not in the Neutral position on the transfer case shifter and then get under the truck and disconnect the transfer case shift linkage and verify that you can move the transfer case shift lever in to each detent to confirm that you have power being transfered through the transfer case to the rear.

 

[johnnyd34]

Ok so I charged the batteries to full. Based off research I bought a new transmission solenoid, both filters and new tabby fluid. So upon removing Tranny pan, this what I saw. I know shavings aren’t good but do I need to rebuild?

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Ok so I charged the batteries to full. Based off research I bought a new transmission solenoid, both filters and new tabby fluid. So upon removing Tranny pan, this what I saw. I know shavings aren’t good but do I need to rebuild?

I think some more investigation is necessary here. Shavings are not good in any scenario but you may be able to make it survive a little longer before you need to overhaul.

If you could get the Autel scan tool connected and tell me what the CVI's are I could probably tell you where the problem is and if you had some time left before a major failure occurs.

 

[johnnyd34]

Should I clean out the pan? Just wipe it or cleaning solution?

 

[johnnyd34]

Latest update. I replaced transmission solenoid and that did nothing. I replaced both filters and tranny fluid flush. Did nothing. Verified the drive shaft IS NOT spinning. Not sure where to go next.

 

[Grams]

I’d simply take it to a transmission shop and let them fix it.

Since you mentioned your Tow/Haul was inoperatvie before this trip…and you were towing…. I’m thinking your overdrive/final-drive clutch pack is toast.

 

[diymirage]

Does reverse work ?

 

[Burla]

Bypass Win modules just to rule it out. It is very possible, that or a short, sounds like a wire issue somewhere. Does not matter that this is a different issue, it is possible this "could" explain what happens with dead items when you turn the key.

Dodge Ram WIN module cheap fix (won’t start)

Instead of replacing WIN module just bypass the start function of it by using a push button switch wired into the start relay

youtu.be

You have like 20 - 30 red items, it has to be electric issue my two cents ignition.

,

 

[johnnyd34]

Does reverse work ?

No it does not.