2014 Ram 1500 driver's side stub shaft

[Kyle_14_Ram_1500]

Hey everyone, hope you all having a good day. I have a 2014 Ram 1500 4x4 with 90,000 miles and noticed a rattle going over bumps coming from the front drivers side. Got underneath and looked at the CV shaft and this is what I found:


Figuring its time to replace the CV shaft and stub shaft. Do you guys agree? As far as replacing the stub shaft, I have read on another thread on here that it comes right out after you pull the CV shaft, but have not seen a thread specific to the driver side only. Is this the case? Also I'm assuming that there is a seal right where the stub shaft enters the differential, which I think I found. I could not find any pics or videos on the stub shaft and how it connects to the differential. I will be purchasing a new CV shaft, new stub shaft, new shaft seal, and of course new front diff fluid that I plan on picking up from the dealer before I start. Screen shot of my cart below.



Is there anything that I am missing or thoughts on any of this? Thanks in advance.

 

[muddy12]

Driver side intermediate shaft just pulls out.
I replaced the CV shafts on my ‘12 recently, and the drivers side intermediate shaft came out with the CV.

If you develop the same issue on the passenger side, your options are limited. There is one aftermarket source for the passenger side intermediate shaft, and I believe they are made to order. Or you have to replace the entire dif assembly.

Oh, almost forgot, the stub/intermediate shaft is splined on both ends. One end goes into the side gears of the dif, and the CV slides over the other end.


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[Kyle_14_Ram_1500]

Driver side intermediate shaft just pulls out.
I replaced the CV shafts on my ‘12 recently, and the drivers side intermediate shaft came out with the CV.

If you develop the same issue on the passenger side, your options are limited. There is one aftermarket source for the passenger side intermediate shaft, and I believe they are made to order. Or you have to replace the entire dif assembly.

Oh, almost forgot, the stub/intermediate shaft is splined on both ends. One end goes into the side gears of the dif, and the CV slides over the other end.


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So am I correct to assume that pulling the intermediate shaft would also drain the differential fluid? Is there a seal there that needs replacing? Or is it isolated from the actual drive gearing in the diff? Thanks for the feed back!


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[muddy12]

if it's not currently leaking, you should be able to remove/reinstall the stub without damaging the seal.
If you jack up only the drivers side of the truck, all the fluid will shift to the passenger side of the dif, and will be below the stub shaft hole. I did mine this way, and did not loose any fluid at all when the stub came out.

Also, mine may be different due to the lift (non stock knuckles), but I had to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle, and lean the knuckle outwards in order to have enough room to remove/reinstall the CV's. If you can't separate the upper ball joint, you can accomplish the same thing by unbolting the upper control arm from the frame.

don't know if you need them or not, but here's a list of torque specs that may be helpful for this job.
Axle nut : 185 ftlbs
Upper ball joint : 70-80 ftlbs
Tie rod : 45 ftlbs
Caliper bracket (bracket to knuckle) : 130 ftlbs
Caliper bolts (caliper to caliper bracket) : 24 ftlbs
Upper control arm bolts : 130 ftlbs

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Hey everyone, hope you all having a good day. I have a 2014 Ram 1500 4x4 with 90,000 miles and noticed a rattle going over bumps coming from the front drivers side. Got underneath and looked at the CV shaft and this is what I found:


Figuring its time to replace the CV shaft and stub shaft. Do you guys agree? As far as replacing the stub shaft, I have read on another thread on here that it comes right out after you pull the CV shaft, but have not seen a thread specific to the driver side only. Is this the case? Also I'm assuming that there is a seal right where the stub shaft enters the differential, which I think I found. I could not find any pics or videos on the stub shaft and how it connects to the differential. I will be purchasing a new CV shaft, new stub shaft, new shaft seal, and of course new front diff fluid that I plan on picking up from the dealer before I start. Screen shot of my cart below.

View attachment 182707

Is there anything that I am missing or thoughts on any of this? Thanks in advance.

Is the truck on a jack or lift for this video? Some play in the CV is normal. I know if I wiggle my CVs they make the same noise as well but I don't hear anything when hitting bumps. I replaced my pass side CV with a new one only to have the same amount of play. Splines looked good to me too, no sign of stripping at all. Check if you have a clunking noise when putting the truck in D or R or accelerating quickly that is a sign of a worn inner cv. Clunking when driving in a circle is a sign of a worn outer CV. Put the truck in 4x4 on some loose road and see if you have any vibrations.

If you do decide to do the job, as it was previously mentioned, alot of times the stub comes out with the CV.

 

[Kyle_14_Ram_1500]

if it's not currently leaking, you should be able to remove/reinstall the stub without damaging the seal.
If you jack up only the drivers side of the truck, all the fluid will shift to the passenger side of the dif, and will be below the stub shaft hole. I did mine this way, and did not loose any fluid at all when the stub came out.

Also, mine may be different due to the lift (non stock knuckles), but I had to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle, and lean the knuckle outwards in order to have enough room to remove/reinstall the CV's. If you can't separate the upper ball joint, you can accomplish the same thing by unbolting the upper control arm from the frame.

don't know if you need them or not, but here's a list of torque specs that may be helpful for this job.
Axle nut : 185 ftlbs
Upper ball joint : 70-80 ftlbs
Tie rod : 45 ftlbs
Caliper bracket (bracket to knuckle) : 130 ftlbs
Caliper bolts (caliper to caliper bracket) : 24 ftlbs
Upper control arm bolts : 130 ftlbs

Awesome! Exactly what I wanted to know. Not leaking currently so sounds like the seal is still good. From what I have seen online, it’s best to disconnect the upper ball joint when replacing CV axles on these trucks. I did it that way with my S-10 when it needed CV axles. I have a ball joint separator that won’t tear up the ball joint boot, so I think I’m good there. Thanks for the torque specs and appreciate all the help!


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[Kyle_14_Ram_1500]

Is the truck on a jack or lift for this video? Some play in the CV is normal. I know if I wiggle my CVs they make the same noise as well but I don't hear anything when hitting bumps. I replaced my pass side CV with a new one only to have the same amount of play. Splines looked good to me too, no sign of stripping at all. Check if you have a clunking noise when putting the truck in D or R or accelerating quickly that is a sign of a worn inner cv. Clunking when driving in a circle is a sign of a worn outer CV. Put the truck in 4x4 on some loose road and see if you have any vibrations.

If you do decide to do the job, as it was previously mentioned, alot of times the stub comes out with the CV.

It was on a jack in this video but I am getting similar play and sound when it is on the ground as well. The passenger made some noise when jacked up but not near the movement or noise. I’ve heard some popping from that side in the last 6 months during tight turns that I feared was CV joints. I also got new tires and am now hearing a metal on metal rubbing noise. Going to take it back to the shop and have them look it over but I am wondering it the CV axle is getting worse now. Just noticed it this morning.


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[RamOutdoorsman12]

It was on a jack in this video but I am getting similar play and sound when it is on the ground as well. The passenger made some noise when jacked up but not near the movement or noise. I’ve heard some popping from that side in the last 6 months during tight turns that I feared was CV joints. I also got new tires and am now hearing a metal on metal rubbing noise. Going to take it back to the shop and have them look it over but I am wondering it the CV axle is getting worse now. Just noticed it this morning.


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With me , my pass side has more play then my drivers. So I replaced that CV and still have the same amount of play. I thought the splines may be bad as there is no play coming from inside the diff. Replacing the pass side shaft is not possible without replacing the diff or spending over $600 on the shaft from an aftermarket supplier. Maybe my play is not normal

 

[ram1500rsm]

Is there a part number for the aftermarket one that cost $600? I’ve seen similar responses before but I can’t locate the darn part number. I don’t have any noises in my cvs when driving around and I beat the crap out of the truck offroad. but there is play in them if I grab them so I’d think is normal. I want to be ready though so I like to write down part numbers for the stuff I may need later on.

 

[muddy12]

Here is the thread about it,
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2012-and-up-ram-1500-passenger-side-intermediate-shafts.129667/

At one time, I had found ordering info, but I can't seem to locate it at the moment. I'll keep digging and see if I can find it again.

 

[Kyle_14_Ram_1500]

So yesterday, after having gotten my new tires the previous day, on the way into work I heard a “light metal rubbing” noise kind of like a brake rubbing noise. Got home after work and checked my driver side out more. Turns out my driver side wheel bearing failed. So last night, I replaced the driver side wheel bearing hub assembly and the CV axle. Went fairly well. The only two issues were I couldn’t get the the old hub off by beating the snot out of it like I usually do on my previous vehicles. Went and got a large bearing puller from work and did the trick. Also, the intermediate shaft pulled out as stated with the CV axle. Was a little seized but after spraying the joint with PB blaster, putting it in my vice and beating the cv axle off of it with a dead blow hammer it came right out. Cleaned it up and put it back in. Seal looks great, no leaks and didn’t lose any fluid thanks to the tip of just jacking up the driver side. I appreciate all the help on this. Just for reference, the new CV axle still had slight play on the intermediate shaft but not near as much. Intermediate shaft seemed fine with no pitting on the outside and nice and solid in the differential.


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[VB712]

I replaced my stub shaft and cv axle due to play in it. New shaft and cv has just about the same amount of play. I didn’t replace my seal and it began leaking a few miles after replacing the parts. Took it back apart, changed seal. No more leaks. Still has play. I’ll drive it until it breaks.

 

[Kyle_14_Ram_1500]

I replaced my stub shaft and cv axle due to play in it. New shaft and cv has just about the same amount of play. I didn’t replace my seal and it began leaking a few miles after replacing the parts. Took it back apart, changed seal. No more leaks. Still has play. I’ll drive it until it breaks.

Basically what I’m thinking. I’m keeping an eye on my seal but so far so good. Looks like the auto parts I checked had them in stock so should be able to get one if needed easily.


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[VB712]

Basically what I’m thinking. I’m keeping an eye on my seal but so far so good. Looks like the auto parts I checked had them in stock so should be able to get one if needed easily.


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mine just randomly started leaking a week or so after changing the stub shaft. Local dealer had one in stock. Like $12 if I remember correctly.

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

I replaced my stub shaft and cv axle due to play in it. New shaft and cv has just about the same amount of play. I didn’t replace my seal and it began leaking a few miles after replacing the parts. Took it back apart, changed seal. No more leaks. Still has play. I’ll drive it until it breaks.

My thoughts exactly

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

So yesterday, after having gotten my new tires the previous day, on the way into work I heard a “light metal rubbing” noise kind of like a brake rubbing noise. Got home after work and checked my driver side out more. Turns out my driver side wheel bearing failed. So last night, I replaced the driver side wheel bearing hub assembly and the CV axle. Went fairly well. The only two issues were I couldn’t get the the old hub off by beating the snot out of it like I usually do on my previous vehicles. Went and got a large bearing puller from work and did the trick. Also, the intermediate shaft pulled out as stated with the CV axle. Was a little seized but after spraying the joint with PB blaster, putting it in my vice and beating the cv axle off of it with a dead blow hammer it came right out. Cleaned it up and put it back in. Seal looks great, no leaks and didn’t lose any fluid thanks to the tip of just jacking up the driver side. I appreciate all the help on this. Just for reference, the new CV axle still had slight play on the intermediate shaft but not near as much. Intermediate shaft seemed fine with no pitting on the outside and nice and solid in the differential.


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When replacing hubs I took the knuckle right off the truck, threaded the bolts in a few threads, and hit the bolt heads with a hammer till the hub pops out

 

[Sleepingbear]

What size of puller would a guy use to remove the intermediate shaft? 48 or 63?