2014 Ram 2500 cummins loose fuse issue with twist

[CStrain]

My 2014 2500 cummins had the opposite effect of seating the fuses. I had some turbo check engine light problems and while checking the recommended fuse. Noticed that most of my fuses were not seated/loose. So I seated about 10 of them in the area of fuse I was looking at. Went to drive it after seating the fuses and the truck wouldnt start. All the sudden when going to start it, the screen tells me to push in my clutch peddle to start it. My truck is an Automatic transmission so thought that odd. pressed the brake peddle like ussual and had errors for airbags, brake sytem, radio wouldnt work and a few other errors. Went back and loosen the fuses I had just touched and everything back to normal. Anyone ever see this?

 

[star_deceiver]

1) Your turbo check engine light problems are most likely a bad actuator. Been there, done that, fix it before it causes more issues. Get ready to spend $1500-$4000 and a day or so if you do the work yourself.
2) Yes, the loose fuses can be fun. I’d bet that one of fuses/relays has worn into place after 9 years of running and wasn’t happy with being moved.

 

[mtnrider]

Disconnect the batteries and let it sit for a bit then connect them back and see what you get. While it is disconnected I would also pull any fuses for the BCM, transmission, and ECM and re-seat them. You may have inadvertently caused a bad connection on one of the ones you pushed on.

Get the truck running then you can get back to the Turbo. Most likely a bad actuator, city diesel has a great replacement for ~$1k

.

 

[CStrain]

Looking into the turbo problems had the loss connection to the turbo actuator and a bad data from the nox sensor. From what Ive seen so far if you get those 2 together. It maybe a Can bus network wiring problem. That's what I'm hoping for instead of the 1000 to 4000$. Truck only has 38000 miles on it and been garaged the whole time. Going to check the voltages to the actuator to get a better idea of direction. Thanks for the feedback on the fuses. I'm thinking of getting a new fuse box for the truck at 400$. The only problems I've had with the truck is a few weird possible electrical problems that went away with the next start of the truck. Is 400$ a decent price for the fuse box new? That's the best I could find.

 

[CStrain]

I'll first check the bcm and ecm fuses like you said. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[mtnrider]

Looking into the turbo problems had the loss connection to the turbo actuator and a bad data from the nox sensor. From what Ive seen so far if you get those 2 together. It maybe a Can bus network wiring problem. That's what I'm hoping for instead of the 1000 to 4000$. Truck only has 38000 miles on it and been garaged the whole time. Going to check the voltages to the actuator to get a better idea of direction. Thanks for the feedback on the fuses. I'm thinking of getting a new fuse box for the truck at 400$. The only problems I've had with the truck is a few weird possible electrical problems that went away with the next start of the truck. Is 400$ a decent price for the fuse box new? That's the best I could find.

What were the exact codes you had? Highly unlikely it's going to be a canbus issue, you probably have a actuator issue and a Nox sensor issue (2 unrelated issues at the same time).

I see no reason to replace the fuse box unless this truck was a flood truck or something? Also sounds like the trucks sits a lot given those miles, any chance you have rodents eating wiring?

.

 

[nlambert182]

Or potentially some corrosion issues. Especially if the fuses were loose and have arc'd over time.

 

[CStrain]

What were the exact codes you had? Highly unlikely it's going to be a canbus issue, you probably have a actuator issue and a Nox sensor issue (2 unrelated issues at the same time).

I see no reason to replace the fuse box unless this truck was a flood truck or something? Also sounds like the trucks sits a lot given those miles, any chance you have rodents eating wiring?

.

P00AF - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Module Performance
U010C - Lost Communication With Turbocharger/Supercharger Control Module A
P003A - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit


Pending
-----------------------------
U059F - Invalid Data Received From NOX Sensor B

 

[mtnrider]

P00AF - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Module Performance
U010C - Lost Communication With Turbocharger/Supercharger Control Module A
P003A - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit


Pending
-----------------------------
U059F - Invalid Data Received From NOX Sensor B

You have a failing actuator... Those are Classic signs.

Also sounds like you have a failing Nox sensor but I'd reset it and monitor that one, if it continues, I'd start by replacing the sensor.

.

 

[CStrain]

I bought the truck new, have never seen a mouse or signs of a mouse.

 

[CStrain]

You have a failing actuator... Those are Classic signs.

Also sounds like you have a failing Nox sensor but I'd reset it and monitor that one, if it continues, I'd start by replacing the sensor.

.

I did the driving test monitoring the Turbo output and reached 25-28 not pulling. Also the engine brake was functioning as expected also. Is that normal if it was failing? I read that with a failing actuator the connection lost U010C comes in when the actuator gets real hot. Also read if you get U010C with the nox it has possibility of being can bus as they are on the same leg of the network. Not sure though with the other actuator errors that came in.
I'm notoriously frugal. Is there any other tests I could run, before committing to the 1000$ replacement? I'm a controls Engineer with 30 years industrial experience. just not much experience in Automotive.

 

[nlambert182]

yes. Remove the passenger wheel liner and try to actuate the arm by hand. It should have "some" resistance, but shouldn't be a struggle to manually move the actuator rod. That's the only test I am aware of.

 

[star_deceiver]

P00AF - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Module Performance
U010C - Lost Communication With Turbocharger/Supercharger Control Module A
P003A - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit

These were the codes I had.

Every time you shut off the engine, when you restart the actuator and turbo will function properly…. as time goes on you will get the DING of the check engine light sooner and sooner. When it decides to act up it will die and stay in whatever position it was in. You could have boost, you could have nothing, your exhast brake could be stuck on.

Your wallet is about to get lighter.

 

[CStrain]

Well I ordered the City Diesel actuator, I had a diesel shop attempt to install the actuator. They could not get it to work. Ended up having to get a second actuator. The diesel shop said turbo moved easily and was good. That stock actuator worked four months. Then same error codes started coming in. I returned the truck to the diesel shop and for 150$ diagnosis. They said the new actuator was destroyed and needed a new Turbo and actuator at 6000$. They didn't take anything apart to come to that diagnosis just hooked up the computer and didn't see the actuator anymore.
I didn't trust the diagnosis and had a little time to dig into it. I did the bare minimum and tested the voltage at the actuator. I'm only getting 9vdc at the actuator. I connected another battery to truck and the same thing. I checked the positive and negative from battery to actuator. The positive was always 9vdc. I'm getting 9vdc from the ECR on engine. My question for everyone is. Does the ECR have a common bus and possibly a bad connection? Or is there another possibility like a relay with bad contacts that could be feeding just my actuator through the ECR? I haven't been able to find any comprehensive info on the ECR. Or if it has a common bus for all connections through it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[CStrain]

Sorry ECM

 

[star_deceiver]

Sorry ECM

No idea.

I feel that if it was the ECM you would have other issues as well as different codes. Perhaps it’s time for a different shop?

 

[nlambert182]

I'd lean towards a new shop. Did you call City Diesel? They are awesome folks and will walk you through troubleshooting over the phone. If, in fact, the actuator is bad they will ship you a new one no questions asked.

I'd be willing to bet that City Diesel can figure out what's going on over the phone.

 

[CStrain]

I did talk to City Diesel. They sent me the wire diagram of were to test on connector and ECM. They thought it might be a bad wire from the ecm to actuator. I did all the recommended tests and wire looks good. Tested right at ecm and only have 9vdc. That's where City Diesel had no suggestions. I have kind of hit a brick wall trying to find more information on ECM. I have some basic electrical drawings for the truck. But doesn't cover anything in the ECM. IF I drive the truck for an hour or so I do get other alarms coming in. That are related to the ECM. Was hoping to find more electronics detail on the ECM before I buy one. Not sure if a shop will br able to diagnose or just best guess this problem.

 

[CStrain]

Well 13000$ later the turbo actuator missing problem is fixed. I went to best Diesel shop in the state. They immediately said it was the turbo. After replacing turbo 2x and replacing ecm and having truck for 3 months. They gave up and refunded all labor cost. I then went to dealer where the ECM was purchased for them to warranty it. They then replaced the 120 wire connector into the ECM that talks to turbo actuator. Which the wires were checked with a light up continuity checker and passed. The female receptor for ecm pins were loose not making good contact. Something I had never read about in a forum before. So thought I would post resolution.