2018 lemon, HELP!!? Literally everything has gone wrong on this thing.

[tacotalker]

Got this truck in February. Had 68K miles. EVERYTHING has gone wrong with it.
Obstructed / deformed gas tank - new tank & pump ( It would take over 10 minutes to fill)
passenger hub bearing - new ( it was wobbly and pulled right worse and worse after the test drive)
passenger manifold gasket - new (it was leaking to the point of smelling, again worse and worse after the test drive)
screen delaminating - replaced (sporadic, but I finally acquiesced because it was dialing 911 / SOS on me multiple times a day)

This all in the first 6 months / 20K miles.

NOW I sprung an exterior coolant leak in the passenger side head. I obviously need a new head & gasket etc.. Question is;
Do I do only the one side, or do I do both to keep things "balanced" or just get a new engine? It would dump an entire radiator in about 15 minutes, so I stopped driving it once I noticed and made it home.

NO warranty, dealer has given me the finger, considering a lawyer but I am wondering whether to do repairs first then pursue that avenue, or set the thing on fire for the insurance payment (not really, but I'm exasperated) or what say you?

 

[nlambert182]

You bought a used vehicle. Did the dealer advertise it with a warranty or as-is? What did the buyer's guide sticker say on the window? If no warranty was advertised or offered, you are probably on your own unfortunately.

The gas tank is a fairly common issue. Exhaust manifold bolts are common, and the screen delam is really common on 2018s.

 

[tacotalker]

I know all that. It was as-is, however CT has a few laws like lemon laws... In this case, for example, they paid for the bearing hub because it could be deemed as "unsafe" and regardless of warranty status, no dealers (at any level) may sell something "unsafe" to drive. I got them to admit that they never inspected the truck afterwards - they got it in as a trade, and just cleaned it up and let it sit... Waiting for auction.

Anyways, I am hoping to get some advice on whether to do just the one side head or replace the engine... As I need a truck and am obviously all-in on this one...

 

[nlambert182]

Did it overheat or just lose coolant? If it just lost coolant, I'd do head gaskets (have the shop check the heads for warpage) and while you're in there fix the exhaust manifold bolts. If it overheated I'd have a shop check the heads and determine if head gaskets are ok or if it needs anything more.

At least when you get all that done you'll know what you have.

Sorry about your luck on this one. A lot of used dealers don't really do inspections. They fix anything obvious and some things they strategically ignore.

 

[tacotalker]

I already did the manifold a few months ago, along w/ the tank and the hub bearing.

As for the head - it overheated once (which is what alerted me to the issue) but the gauge didn't max out. I filled it a couple times to make it home (i just happened to have water on me, and then made it to an autozone for proper coolant) then I saw the profuse leak just dump everywhere...

So they've recommended the entire head - not just the gaskets - lifters etc...
Then they reccommended both sides, at twice the price of course.
Which leads me to the question, do I do only one side or just go for the entire engine replacement?

 

[Daw14]

When you pull the bad head ,you will be able to inspect your cam and lifters for wear.
Depending how things look may give you more direction to follow .
I would suggest both head gaskets as you are almost there , why would the other not be near death also ?

Lemons are new vehicles that are not good , what you have is a used truck with no warranty. You bought it , test drove it , but maybe should have had a mechanic inspect it before buying.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

If I was that far in, I'd do both heads, after I determined what caused the leak.
If you just did an exhaust manifold did the removal of the bolt cause the leak. If someone drilled out the exhaust bolt and went too far, the water jacket which is behind the exhaust bolts, could have been breeched, causing your problem.

This could not be a manufacturer problem but a by product of your previous repair.

Not saying I'm right, I'm saying look at the issue closer

 

[zrock]

If you had a head gasket leak of that size your engine would have locked up with all that coolant going into the engine. Are you sure a frost plug has not rotted out and its leaking from their. Other thing that is coming to mind is when they replaced the exhaust manifold they had to drill out a stud and they drilled to far and went into the water jacket and whatever they used to fix that issue finally let go. Personally i would find another shop to diagnose the coolant leak.

I ran into similar issues when i purchased mine from the dealer used All the brakes were shot and teh front end was shot they had to replace everything.. I have had to do the manifold 2x now and have to do it again..

 

[rzr6-4]

So they've recommended the entire head - not just the gaskets - lifters etc...
Then they reccommended both sides, at twice the price of course.
Which leads me to the question, do I do only one side or just go for the entire engine replacement?

Agree with the others, I'd probly do both head gaskets.

Beings as you got hot but didn't actually peg out the gauge, I'm not so sure that you actually need new heads though. I don't suppose they have the tools at the shop the check for flatness.

 

[Bmags]

I would check car-part and look for a used engine. They are relatively cheap and you can replace it yourself in a weekend.

If it was me I'd actually opt for the 6.4 at that point and swap it in. It's a tough call. In for a penny in for a pound... but at some point you need to know what your max spend is and decide from there.

If you wanted to repair the engine, then I'd say go for the MDS delete while you're in there and a nice choppy cam... but again that's just me. And it's easy to spend someone else's money

 

[tacotalker]

If you had a head gasket leak of that size your engine would have locked up with all that coolant going into the engine. Are you sure a frost plug has not rotted out and its leaking from their. Other thing that is coming to mind is when they replaced the exhaust manifold they had to drill out a stud and they drilled to far and went into the water jacket and whatever they used to fix that issue finally let go. Personally i would find another shop to diagnose the coolant leak.

I ran into similar issues when i purchased mine from the dealer used All the brakes were shot and teh front end was shot they had to replace everything.. I have had to do the manifold 2x now and have to do it again..

I am pretty committed at this shop - it is my local DODGE dealer (not where I bought the thing from) and I do trust them.. Although I will bring up the stud thing - as it was the same side and I remember they did tell me that was a fix... Maybe that's it!!

 

[tacotalker]

Agree with the others, I'd probly do both head gaskets.

Beings as you got hot but didn't actually peg out the gauge, I'm not so sure that you actually need new heads though. I don't suppose they have the tools at the shop the check for flatness.

They want to do both heads complete w/ lifters etc etc... I am not cheap - per se - but I am getting fatigued at the constant issues. So I want this to be over with. That said, I'm not sold that both sides would need doing, but if I did then it is almost the same $$ as a new engine. I know they want to sell, and I do trust the shop (its a dodge dealer and I built his uncle's house) but I don't like playing that "do me a favor" card. plus he is in Europe through August and I can't wait.

 

[tacotalker]

I would check car-part and look for a used engine. They are relatively cheap and you can replace it yourself in a weekend.

If it was me I'd actually opt for the 6.4 at that point and swap it in. It's a tough call. In for a penny in for a pound... but at some point you need to know what your max spend is and decide from there.

If you wanted to repair the engine, then I'd say go for the MDS delete while you're in there and a nice choppy cam... but again that's just me. And it's easy to spend someone else's money

I get what you're saying, but I am not that technical. I don't have a weekend to give it.
I am interested in knowing how I could get an MDS delete and keep the computer... in other words, how do I avoid that becoming a perpetual electrical gremlin??

 

[mdc1990zr1]

They want to do both heads complete w/ lifters etc etc... I am not cheap - per se - but I am getting fatigued at the constant issues. So I want this to be over with. That said, I'm not sold that both sides would need doing, but if I did then it is almost the same $$ as a new engine. I know they want to sell, and I do trust the shop (its a dodge dealer and I built his uncle's house) but I don't like playing that "do me a favor" card. plus he is in Europe through August and I can't wait.

I would do the heads and exhaust manifolds like the shop recommended. I would replace the lifters with stock MDS and inspect the cam at that point. You seem to like the truck except for the repairs, but you did buy used and sometimes the bear gets you. My $ 0.02. Good luck

 

[EdGs]

If you used autozone coolant, it might not be compatible. I'm not trying to scare you, but while you're replacing the head gaskets or heads, make sure you get all the old coolant out, and fill it with the proper OAT coolant.

There are aftermarket ones that are compatible for the Ram, but I'm not sure which ones. Others here are more well-versed on that.

I do know that mixing the wrong stuff can gel up and really block up the works.

GL on your repairs, may they go smoothly.

 

[White six four]

Since money sounds a little tight, for future reference since it's already at a dealership, find a good local shop that is not a dealership to work on your rig. Especially if they did drill out the broken exhaust stud and hit the water jacket. You could be paying now for their mistake. Even if they didn't a dealership is one of the last places I'd bring a vehicle once the vehicle is out of warranty if money is an issue.

 

[Wild one]

Check your local Market Place,i know on my local Market Place i can find take out engines with less then a 100km's/65miles on them for about what it'd cost to replace a head,and do cam/lifters while it's apart

 

[Bmags]

I get what you're saying, but I am not that technical. I don't have a weekend to give it.
I am interested in knowing how I could get an MDS delete and keep the computer... in other words, how do I avoid that becoming a perpetual electrical gremlin??

For me, I just turned them off with a tune (I used HP Tuners, there are others as well)... and left all the "stock" hardware in the engine (lifters, cam, etc). At this point about 70,000 miles since I've turned MDS off and no issues. I don't expect I'd see any.

Some folks will say the proper way to delete is to swap the hardware, but I wouldn't recommend that unless there is a reason to tear into the engine. Since there is a reason for you at this point, I'd replace with non MDS parts and get a tune to turn it off... and you'd never have to worry about it again.

 

[tacotalker]

 

[CamperMike]

My 2018 also blew the passenger head gasket with an external leak although it was not as extreme as yours. It was still under warranty and the dealer installed a new head and gasket on that side only. I've put on nearly 40k miles since then with no issue. If it were my truck I'd probably just replace the side that is leaking.