24 valve cummins

[zeustheram]

how do yall feel about the 24 valves and the 12 valve cummins?

 

[MagSport]

Love them both. I love the manual injector pumps used with the 12 valve as well as the proven reliability. The 12 valves are easier to pull power out of by adjusting the mechanical aspect of the pump, not to mention you don't have to spend money on a tuner. The 24v had a few issues regarding their new pump designs (bosch vp44) and the casting of certain "53" blocks but other than that, they're much more powerful than the stock 12v and much more tuner friendly. The ideal engine, imo, would be the 24v with the 12v injector pump (bosch p7100).


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[dapepper9]

Love them both. I love the manual injector pumps used with the 12 valve as well as the proven reliability. The 12 valves are easier to pull power out of by adjusting the mechanical aspect of the pump, not to mention you don't have to spend money on a tuner. The 24v had a few issues regarding their new pump designs (bosch vp44) and the casting of certain "53" blocks but other than that, they're much more powerful than the stock 12v and much more tuner friendly. The ideal engine, imo, would be the 24v with the 12v injector pump (bosch p7100).


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I couldn't agree more. Got a buddy with a 97 12v and tho I like it, it seems dated even consulted top my 01 v8. 12v is reliable and can out down some power but its just as easy to make that power with a 24v and you just gotta buy a tuner. Ya pump swap is a good idea but then on a stock truck it's not a big deal. 24v is more friendly for a regular driver and was available later Ion with the H.O. and 6spd manual combo Trouble shooting problems is easier in 24v due to being able to get codes more easily and accurately and they're not much more complicated.

Edit: I'd rather own a 24v. Plus with exhaust work done they don't sound quite like a semi like the 12v do. Damn near everybody does 4"straight pipe on 12v whether it's through a stack or out the back but it just sounds like a semi. 24v sounds better IMO especially when not straight piped

 

[zeustheram]

im just trying to find the pros and cons of them because i may be buying one of them in the next month or two. i found a 01 24v automatic transmission, chipped, comes with a programmer, beadlock rims, 35 inch tires. for 10000 cause the guy is leaving for the military said he couldnt take it with him.

 

[BlackMagnum2000]

12v (6bt) can get more fuel normally due to the p pump. All mechanical. Simple.

24v (ISB) you can put a tuner on. Generally more efficient. You can in the end get about the same power out of them.

As for the mention of the pumps a VP44 is a good pump too. And it is possible to put a p pump on an ISB. But it's much easier to just put a tuner on the ISB and get essentially the same power with more efficiency. My dad is general manager of a diesel machine shop. Been there probably 15 years. Even worked for Cummins at one point. He's never even heard of these problems with the block casting. So take it or leave it, both are good engines. But for what its worth, I prefer the ISB. That's what my next truck will have.

 

[dapepper9]

"53" blocks are engines made in Brazil iirc and they have the number "53"stamped on the side down by the starter. The problem with these is that the cylinder walls are thinner on these blocks to save money on material and due to this they have a nasty tendency to crack there once power has begun being added. Sick they'll run just as long as any other but you add power and you'll probably be paying for a new block before long.

The 12v also have a problem with blowing up due to what's known as the "killer dowel pin." I'm not as familiar with this but I think it's a pin inside the timing cover that can fall out and dork up your timing chain and cause all sorts of problems. Eau fix and if you Google it you'll get more info than what I can provide

 

[zeustheram]

ive heard of the "killer dowel pin" completely destroying the blocks. and the 24valve that im looking at has a tuner already hooked up and what not. he said 10000obo truck doesnt have high miles for a diesel. only 210,000. says it runs and shifts great but i guess ill see when i test drive and everything.

 

[MagSport]

My uncle bought his cummins brand new in 01 and still owns it, but the original motor was a 53 block and it cracked without any performance upgrades. However, he uses to haul very heavy loads, any where between 20 and 50,000 pound loads. So in summary stay away from frequent heavy hauling and heavy performance mods and the 53 block should be ok.


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[Merc225hp]

I have limited Dsl experience but I do know this the 53 blocks are junk, split and crack just looking at them. KDP is an easy fix and cheap to do as well.

V8 baby V8 gas that is.................

 

[dapepper9]

im just trying to find the pros and cons of them because i may be buying one of them in the next month or two. i found a 01 24v automatic transmission, chipped, comes with a programmer, beadlock rims, 35 inch tires. for 10000 cause the guy is leaving for the military said he couldnt take it with him.

I just did a quick search and supposedly the 53 blocks were only on 98-00 trucks. Since you are looking at an 01 it shouldn't be a problem HOWEVER I would still check because I'm not 100% sure on that info.

And I was wrong the casting will be just below the injection pump on the passenger side right above where the oil pan bolts to the block. Supposedly some had it on the drivers side so if check both sides right above the oil pan line. If nothing then hell of a score man!

 

[Arlucian]

Pros: reliability, easy to make power, depending how much you drive a cummins can get you through a lot of your life without needing rebuilt, pair that with a manual tranny and you in my oppinion have the most reliable truck on planet earth

Cons: Diesels are expensive, not only does diesel cost more but the parts will also run you a lot more and if there is work you cant do your self you end up having to find a diesel shop (usually cummins specific) and forking over A LOT of money.

 

[BlackMagnum2000]

I disagree about it usually needing to be a Cummins specific shop. B series Cummins went into so much stuff, most shops are well trained with them.
Also as for it being more expensive, keep in mind there is also no ignition parts and 2 less cylinders, so you win some and lose some with a Cummins as for expense. Though I agree overall it will probably be more expensive if you need to maintenance.

 

[Arlucian]

I disagree about it usually needing to be a Cummins specific shop. B series Cummins went into so much stuff, most shops are well trained with them.
Also as for it being more expensive, keep in mind there is also no ignition parts and 2 less cylinders, so you win some and lose some with a Cummins as for expense. Though I agree overall it will probably be more expensive if you need to maintenance.

Thats just my experience mainly from working on big rigs to be honest most general shops just send the truck off to a cat or cummins shop when major engine work is needed. Brought a truck with a cummins to a cat shop for jake brake diagnosis and fixing a brake can and they told us they could do the brakes but not the jake brakes and that we were better off taking it to a cummins shop. Strangely enough i saw a detroit in the same shop with the valve covers off. Then again detroits arent all that popular compared to cummins and cat.

 

[rowdyram]

Just a little info on the 53 blocks for you guys. They do crack, because they're thinner and most people daily there diesel's cause they think it "cool to own one" and they never warm up. They develop hot spots because the t-stat never opens and then they get shut off and cool around these spots first. There is a reflash for the engine controller that reduces power until its at operating temp so it warms more evenly. I have had luck welding these cracks as well so a crack doesn't mean it needs a block.

On the kdp this is the fix I do to all that I work on. Grind a fender washer down cost $0.28

 

[Cummins Powered]

The P7100 are great trucks. There very reliable, great miles per gallon, easy to work on, and cheap to modify these trucks. With just over 3,000 you have a 12 mid second truck, with 4,000 you have an 11 second truck. I have a 94 that is modified with Industrial Injection Super PhatShaft 66 turbo, Industrial Injection #5 fuel/cam plate, Industrial Injection 230 HP Big End injectors, Industrial Injection T-4 3 piece exhaust manifold, BD Diesel Performance trans kit rebuild, BD Diesel Performance Killer Dowel Pin, BD Diesel Performance P7100 injection pump, BD Diesel Performance Mechanical Governor spring kit, BD Diesel Performance elbow orifice, BD Diesel Performance deep trans pan, BD Diesel Performance intercooler, Banks Billet torque converter with Race-Lock, Banks Twin-Ram intake manifold, Banks Ram Air CAI, Fass 220 GPH system, A-1 H-11 Technologies head studs with Mahle Clevite head gaskets, Auto Meter triple guages, 4 inch HX40 down-pipe to a 5 inch Grand Rock system to a 7 inch stack with Aeroturbine diesel muffler, and custom traction bars. Rather you modify or as a daily driver, you can't go wrong with these trucks. If your heart is set on the VP44 truck go with the 98.5 model.

 

[BlackMagnum2000]

Or a 01.5-02 with rear disc brakes.

 

[ADudeOnSkis]

Both are great engines, definitely enough info and opinions in this thread already, it really comes down to what you want out of it. You will likely find yourself wanting to invest some money into building up your front end, depending on what kind of driving you do. The 98 12v that I grew up driving ate front ends like a fat kid in a candy shop.