Ignition Switched Power Location Under Hood - For Relay

[EViS]

I require a switched ignition hot wire for a number of accessories (via a relay signal) on a 2015 RAM 1500. It seems that most people use the centre console power outlet as their switched ignition source. However, I need a switched wire under the hood in the engine bay.

Could I have some recommendations for where you guys get an ignition signal wire under the hood?

 

[BossHogg]

Check your owner's manual, in the fuse section, for the fuse number that controls the interior power plug. The fuse has two positions: always hot and ignition-switched. Use a fuse tap to get your relay control signal.

 

[EViS]

Check your owner's manual, in the fuse section, for the fuse number that controls the interior power plug. The fuse has two positions: always hot and ignition-switched. Use a fuse tap to get your relay control signal.

I did consider this. However, I have already moved the interior power outlet fuse to always hot as this is more useful for me. Hence, I cannot now use it with an ignition-switched fuse tap (or can I?).

 

[04fxdwgi]

Choose your selection and test with a test light. Then use a "fuse tap" on the one that works for you. Too easy

 

[crash68]

Fuse F66 should be switched with ignition

 

[Grams]

I require a switched ignition hot wire for a number of accessories (via a relay signal) on a 2015 RAM 1500. It seems that most people use the centre console power outlet as their switched ignition source. However, I need a switched wire under the hood in the engine bay.

Could I have some recommendations for where you guys get an ignition signal wire under the hood?

Fuel pump fuse is only “hot” when the switch is “on”. A piggy-back fuse splice there should do the trick.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Fuel pump fuse is only “hot” when the switch is “on”. A piggy-back fuse splice there should do the trick.

Never been a fan of piggy backing off some fuse that feeds a critical component. Seems that doing that to something, say like the under hood light or some other thing of low priority, would be a more logical choice.

 

[Grams]

Never been a fan of piggy backing off some fuse that feeds a critical component. Seems that doing that to something, say like the under hood light or some other thing of low priority, would be a more logical choice.

A true “piggy-back” splice….does not hazard the original circuit… as it merely parallels it…. similar to every other circuit that comes off the battery-buss.

(but I understand the reluctance if you have another dedicated source)

 

[04fxdwgi]

A true “piggy-back” splice….does not hazard the original circuit… as it merely parallels it…. similar to every other circuit that comes off the battery-buss.

(but I understand the reluctance if you have another dedicated source)

Perhaps you should read what I said again. Said nothing about piggy backing being no good. I suggested piggy backing off a non critical circuit.
I would consider the fuse for powering the fuel pump a critical circuit.

But hey, you do you.

 

[Grams]

Perhaps you should read what I said again. Said nothing about piggy backing being no good. I suggested piggy backing off a non critical circuit.
I would consider the fuse for powering the fuel pump a critical circuit.

But hey, you do you.

I prefer not to read blather more than once.

 

[BossHogg]

Never been a fan of piggy backing off some fuse that feeds a critical component. Seems that doing that to something, say like the under hood light or some other thing of low priority, would be a more logical choice.

You fuse tap off the battery feed side of the fuse, not the load side.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Correct, but sometimes the fuse holder that you piggy back can become stressed by the adapter. I prefer to do that to a less critical fuse.

Been an industrical / automotive / marine electrical guy for over 55 years and and seen these kinds of failures all too often.