3.21 vs 3.92 Gear Ratio...will not be towing much.

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

Exactly. I’ve stated before that the only trailer that I tow is a little bitty single axle 10 foot utility trailer that really only has my riding lawnmower on it as I use that to take my mower over to my moms house to cut her grass but, there was a time when a buddy of mine needed his Mustang hauled to the transmission shop so, I’m really glad that my truck had the 392s because pulling the heavy duty flatbed trailer that my boss has with his car on it, sure made it nice having the properly geared truck, just for that one time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes ! ... I saw where you mentioned your UT for the riding lawnmower ... and with me having the 4.88s now I feel that if I need to tow I am good to go ...

 

[corneileous]

No, no, no. 1000 times no. Lets go back to my previous example and walk through this point by point.

Statement #1: Two identical 3.92 trucks are driving down the road at same time with the same load. The one truck is in 7th gear. Is the second truck also in 7th gear?

Depending on your answer, we can go from there.

No.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ramffml]

Are ya really gonna make me say it again?

Yes, the OP started a thread about gear ratios, not weight distribution hitches and payload capacity but it was YOU who said that even us with the higher trailer tow ratings can’t even do that and yes, if you load the **** out of your truck and don’t use a WDH, you probably can’t.


So you take what manufacturer ratings are for gospel?

I brought it up because it's proof that the 3.92 is not helpful in most situations. Both trucks require a WDH at 5000 pounds. It's not about loading the **** out of your truck. Even with a properly setup WDH, you in your 3.92, cannot tow a RV > 8000 pounds when you hop in with your family.

So using a WDH is a must. It's a given, you absolutely need it. But it doesn't change the fact that you can't tow more than 8000 pounds before running out of payload.

 

[ramffml]

No.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why is the second truck not in the same gear?

 

[ramffml]

Dude seriously.... the difference between 3.21s and 3.92s MPGs is not that much to not choose a 3.92 ... Forget the towing he specifically said he is not going to be doing a lot of towing but to have the piece of mind in case you do have to at some point and not regret it go with the 3.92s .... again I was getting up to 15 MPGs with the 3.21s with 37" tires but I don't tow and I wasn't driving my truck like I am doing now lol ... now that I have the 4.88s I am getting 11 MPG and only because I am having fun driving my truck around town ... I was still at 13-15 MPG when I first regeared to 4.88s and on the highway I would get up to 17 MPG with both setups .....

I am willing to bet that if the OP goes with the 3.21s at some point he will come back and say "damn you guys, I should of gotten the 3.92s like some of you guys suggested I do" .... you can just do so much more with the 3.92s than the 3.21s and save even more money in the long run ....

No. The OP originally prioritized MPG, as do I. Never in the 2 years of owning my 3.21 have I felt a lack of power, or at any point thought I should have gotten the 3.92. I have always really loved my gas mileage though, getting as much as 25 mpg on the freeway when I try for it.

Not everybody wants to run around in a lifted bro truck with stupidly large tires getting 10 mpg. You don't have a clue what most people want.

 

[corneileous]

Oh dude that is something I forgot to mention myself lol ... people do want trucks just to have a truck because of the look but I don't see a problem with that though lol ... I have my truck and it's a 2wd with 37"s and 4.88s and I don't go offroading with it, but I do use it as a truck because I own a home which needs a truck to go to home depot or other places where I buy tons of stuff needed for the yard, house and other things .... not all people who buy a truck buy it to just go offroading which is what I am assuming you are talking about when you say "no intentions of using it like a truck" ....

No, that’s not what I meant. I’m talking about people who would be better off with a Durango, or even a Tahoe or Suburban.

Even I myself would probably be better off in something like that because I don’t even hardly use my truck bed. My truck bed has carpet in it and it has a really nice solid tonneau cover on top of it that really limits it’s use so really all my truck bed is, is just a really large trunk. I mean, I have hauled a tiny amount of lumber in there, a couple of bricks to make the fire pit that I built and a couple of bags of mulch but if I really needed to load my truck down, that’s what my trailer is for.

And I don’t even off-road, either. I have no intentions of lifting my truck, or even putting large tires on it that would make use of the gears my truck has. But, and I’ve stated this before, I like how my trucks get up and go is what it is because of the gears that came in my truck. I probably would not like my truck if it had those higher gears in the differentials and that’s probably primarily due to the fact that my old truck had the 392s so that’s what I’m used to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TomB 1269]

3.21 will be fine and the transmission compensates for tall rear gears. I have 2019 classic Hemi with 3.21 rear gears. With me and my gear in the truck she pulls 93 mph in 15.063 seconds on the track at nearly 6000lbs. I have pulled UHaul car trailer with 1997 GMC Sonoma extended cab from Buffalo NY to Albany NY and it did fine. Actually better than my old Ford 150 FX4 with 5.4L and 3.73 rear. Again the HP8 transmission gear and the Hemi together makes even 6000lbs of truck with a 3.21 launch out of the hole like a cat with its tail on fire.

FYI, the electronics in it make it even better. 4hi, aka 4 lock, (on trucks without 4auto) make it act as though the axles have lockers in them, i.e. all 4 spin together in the snow not 1 on each axle as you would expect from an open differential. These trucks are a beast in snow. Once the truck realizes you are stuck it will not let you red line the motor, instead just hold pedal to floor and it will automatically rock the truck by varying engine RPM from 3500 to 3000 and back. It will walk itself out of knee plus deep snowblow snow (i.e. snow blower piled it up) with out issue.

My '05 F150 FX4 had better tires, bigger tires (stock size on it is bigger then stock on my Ram), limited rear and sat higher than my Ram. I had always said I be comfortable going out in 2ft of snow. My RAM..... I be fine with 3 feel. My only concern is plowed snow banks as I have the sport front end and am concerned with damaging it going thru deep plowed snow banks.......

 

[corneileous]

I brought it up because it's proof that the 3.92 is not helpful in most situations.

I’ll probably regret this but, why?

Both trucks require a WDH at 5000 pounds.

Yes, this is true because what determines whether you need a WDH or not all boils down to the fact that of your trailer’s final weight is more than 50-55% of your truck’s weight then yes, a WDH is required.

It's not about loading the **** out of your truck. Even with a properly setup WDH, you in your 3.92, cannot tow a RV > 8000 pounds when you hop in with your family.

It’s not?? It seems to me that it is because whether you use a WDH or not, the more **** you pack in your truck reduces how much weight you can have pushing down on the back of your truck so if you load it accordingly, that’s more of a heavier trailer you can pull.

So using a WDH is a must. It's a given, you absolutely need it. But it doesn't change the fact that you can't tow more than 8000 pounds before running out of payload.

Again, loading your truck accordingly DOES change that fact.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[boblonben]

I have a 2020 with e-torque and 3.92 gears. I often get better mpg in town than on the highway. Best it will do is 17 if you baby it, draft a truck and stay way under the prevailing speed. My typical highway mpg is around 14.

sounds way low mileage to me. Have a 2017 4X4 with 3.92 and on highway in 4auto average between 20.6 and 21.2. Never see under 20. Hummmm????????

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

No. The OP originally prioritized MPG, as do I. Never in the 2 years of owning my 3.21 have I felt a lack of power, or at any point thought I should have gotten the 3.92. I have always really loved my gas mileage though, getting as much as 25 mpg on the freeway when I try for it.

Not everybody wants to run around in a lifted bro truck with stupidly large tires getting 10 mpg. You don't have a clue what most people want.

Ok my boy pump your damn breaks with the "you don't have a clue what most people want" .... If you don't like lifted trucks because they look stupid with large tires getting 10 mpg" that is your opinion which is fine ... but don't try to take shots at me trying to sound like you know better or have a clue what most people want either ... I have seen you act like an immature punk back and forth with @corneileous ....

Again there is not much difference is MPGs from a 3.21 and 3.92 ... the OPs question was "What do I lose by not going with the 3.92 ? ARE there any other options I should consider?"

My answer is nothing much with MPGs maybe 1-2 if that! what he will lose by not going with the 3.92s is being able to tow if the need arises and just the pep I personally like out of the 3.92s ....

Even if the truck is not lifted going with the 3.92s gives anyone more options with the truck ... you can feel better about towing, you can go up in tire size if the itch hits you ...

Relax there my Son ... I too can get over 20 MPG on a road trip which I did with the 37s and 4.88s when I drove to Arizona when I first regeared .... hell I can definitely hit 17-18 now if I drive like a normal human being which I did before I regeared but driving my truck is fun ...

 

[ramffml]

I’ll probably regret this but, why?

Because there are 2 limits to your truck. What you can tow, and what you can carry. Changing the rear end only changes how much you can tow. But that's not the normal limit in our trucks. The vast majority of the time, we are limited by payload. You can change your rear end to a 5.90 for all I care, you can't still can't tow more than me because your available payload hasn't changed.

When you hop in with your wife and a properly setup WDH, and attach a trailer at 8000 pounds, you probably hit max payload. End of story. You can't tow a heavier trailer because that will put more weight on your truck, going past your available payload.

Now if you drive a stripped down single cab work truck with no features, no 4x4, nothing that adds weight; and you travel all by yourself, yes you have a greater chance of reaching 9000 or 10000 pounds of towing before hitting your payload. But that's not most scenarios. Most people have a family and a decently optioned truck.

 

[ramffml]

Ok my boy pump your damn breaks with the "you don't have a clue what most people want" .... If you don't like lifted trucks because they look stupid with large tires getting 10 mpg" that is your opinion which is fine ... but don't try to take shots at me trying to sound like you know better or have a clue what most people want either ... I have seen you act like an immature punk back and forth with @corneileous ....

Again there is not much difference is MPGs from a 3.21 and 3.92 ... the OPs question was "What do I lose by not going with the 3.92 ? ARE there any other options I should consider?"

My answer is nothing much with MPGs maybe 1-2 if that! what he will lose by not going with the 3.92s is being able to tow if the need arises and just the pep I personally like out of the 3.92s ....

Even if the truck is not lifted going with the 3.92s gives anyone more options with the truck ... you can feel better about towing, you can go up in tire size if the itch hits you ...

Relax there my Son ... I too can get over 20 MPG on a road trip which I did with the 37s and 4.88s when I drove to Arizona when I first regeared .... hell I can definitely hit 17-18 now if I drive like a normal human being which I did before I regeared but driving my truck is fun ...

Please point out where I have acted immaturely with Corneilous. I have been nothing but respectful. Sorry I triggered you with the large tire comment.

As for "losing out by going 3.21". He's losing nothing, because he will hit max payload before max towing.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

No. The OP originally prioritized MPG, as do I. Never in the 2 years of owning my 3.21 have I felt a lack of power, or at any point thought I should have gotten the 3.92. I have always really loved my gas mileage though, getting as much as 25 mpg on the freeway when I try for it.

Not everybody wants to run around in a lifted bro truck with stupidly large tires getting 10 mpg. You don't have a clue what most people want.

And I never said a 3.21 lacks power ... if you go back to my posts about me on 37s with the 3.21s you will see that I said and still say 3.21s have plenty of power ... but the added power and ability to tow without concerns with the 3.92s is worth losing 1-2 MPGs IMO ...

I too can try to get 25 MPG and chances are I "will" get it ... that is anyone with any truck really lol ...

With any truck if you get close to 15 MPG overall with highway and in town combined you should feel good about it ... that is what I generally average with mine ....

 

[Tracy in IL]

with your intended use, the V6 will be the best option motor By far the V6 is the most reliable engine too. If you have ever driven a modern V6 it drives like the V8's from 20-30 years ago (almost 300hp). I second the 3.21 choice if your going to get the V8.

 

[ramffml]

And I never said a 3.21 lacks power ... if you go back to my posts about me on 37s with the 3.21s you will see that I said and still say 3.21s have plenty of power ... but the added power and ability to tow without concerns with the 3.92s is worth losing 1-2 MPGs IMO ...

I too can try to get 25 MPG and chances are I "will" get it ... that is anyone with any truck really lol ...

With any truck if you get close to 15 MPG overall with highway and in town combined you should feel good about it ... that is what I generally average with mine ....

It's more like 2 to 3 mpg. It's very easy for me to say that, because I can drop my truck into 7th or 8th on the freeway and look at the difference in "instant consumption". When you're talking 20 mpg, losing 3 puts you at 17. 3/20 = 15 percent decrease in MPG. That is very significant. Given that he prioritizes MPG, tows a light trailer, why would you suggest he purchase a truck that gets 15 percent worse fuel "just in case" he decides to tow more than 8000 pounds, which he probably can't do anyways because he can't carry that much weight in the truck?

And by the way, there is no way you are ever hitting 25 MPG on the highway in your current rig.

 

[ramffml]

with your intended use, the V6 will be the best option motor By far the V6 is the most reliable engine too. If you have ever driven a modern V6 it drives like the V8's from 20-30 years ago (almost 300hp). I second the 3.21 choice if your going to get the V8.

That's a good point, he would do well in the v6 too.

 

[sone]

I guess one "rough" way to look at is.. just an example only... 3.92 with 60 fuel-ups a year, which is 5 a month, paying an extra 3 more gallons than 3.21 at roughly $3.00 per gallon makes it that you're paying $540 a year for more for tow and pep to petal.

 

[corneileous]

Because there are 2 limits to your truck. What you can tow, and what you can carry. Changing the rear end only changes how much you can tow. But that's not the normal limit in our trucks. The vast majority of the time, we are limited by payload. You can change your rear end to a 5.90 for all I care, you can't still can't tow more than me because your available payload hasn't changed.

When you hop in with your wife and a properly setup WDH, and attach a trailer at 8000 pounds, you probably hit max payload. End of story. You can't tow a heavier trailer because that will put more weight on your truck, going past your available payload.

Now if you drive a stripped down single cab work truck with no features, no 4x4, nothing that adds weight; and you travel all by yourself, yes you have a greater chance of reaching 9000 or 10000 pounds of towing before hitting your payload. But that's not most scenarios. Most people have a family and a decently optioned truck.

Well, I guess I was right, I’m regretting asking that but whatever, I’m not gonna repeat myself again but, the one thing I will say is why does it even matter because how many people actually take the time to take their truck and trailer to a scale to actually see that they’re not exceeding the payload? How many people even buy the type of hitch that will actually tell you, even without going to a cat scale, about how much weight your trailer tongue is putting on your hitch?

There’s even people who insist on running eight ply and 10 ply tires on their halftons just because they think their truck will do better with the heavier tires, and even though I’m not taking a shot at people who do that but all I’m saying, is what does that tell you, that if people feel the need to put 10 ply tires on a halfton truck, I bet you anything they’re pulling a lot heavier than what their payload allows them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Farmer Fran]

This is getting funny. People get so defensive. It it is like over at the Camaro forum with the SS vs. LT1.

Constatly having to justify the item.

 

[ramffml]

Well, I guess I was right, I’m regretting asking that but whatever, I’m not gonna repeat myself again but, the one thing I will say is why does it even matter because how many people actually take the time to take their truck and trailer to a scale to actually see that they’re not exceeding the payload? How many people even buy the type of hitch that will actually tell you, even without going to a cat scale, about how much weight your trailer tongue is putting on your hitch?

There’s even people who insist on running eight ply and 10 ply tires on their halftons just because they think their truck will do better with the heavier tires, and even though I’m not taking a shot at people who do that but all I’m saying, is what does that tell you, that if people feel the need to put 10 ply tires on a halfton truck, I bet you anything they’re pulling a lot heavier than what their payload allows them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the premise of your argument is: "just ignore the payload because nobody really checks anyway"? That's not responsible.

Most travel trailers are on average 13% tongue weight. Some are more or less, depending on floor layout. They all have stickers telling you some combination of dry and loaded weight, so multiply your wet weight by 0.13 to get tongue weight; but yes, best to run over a CAT scale.

To answer your question: "what does that tell you, that if people feel the need to put 10 ply tires on a halfton truck", stock tires are chosen to be soft and cushy and get highest MPG. I also purchased new tires because towing my trailer felt squishy. That was only at 5000 pounds, well before my 8000 pound limit so I'm not surprised by people putting on beefier tires. My new tires are Michelin and have a firmer sidewall, though they are not 10 ply, I look forward to trying them out.