Spent a large part of my life in and around the trucking industry. I am more than well versed in how it works. I simply answered the questions as you presented them. If you didn't comprehend what I and others have said, that isn't on us. The question was answered in post #2 above.
You said:
You ended that sentence with "That's the reasoning behind it", which could only lead to the conclusion that it was on your mind.
I said:
You said:
I said:
You said:
I said:
If you want to know the WHY.... a quick google search provides the answer.
"Manual transmission Cummins trucks often lack a high idle feature because of the clutch safety switch mechanism, which prevents the engine from going into high idle unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed, making it impractical for manual transmissions where the driver needs to operate the clutch frequently; essentially, the system is designed to avoid unintended acceleration when the truck is in gear while idling high"
Does this help clear up any confusion?
It’s funny how you say if I didn’t comprehend what you or others have said. You clearly don’t have or ever owned a G56 in your trucks and also haven’t researched it beyond a 2 minute google search. So why are you even commenting then? Does it make you feel like your contributing or something?There are ways to get it done and I will attach the file so maybe you can learn something new, I’m just trying to find the correct ECM pin out sheet to ground what terminal to get it done in a factory way and not an aftermarket way.
And to answer or clear your confusion to me saying “that’s the reasoning behind it” you clearly left out a huge part in that…was when you asked me why I wanted it done and what I was referring to was I want to idle the truck up to increase cylinder temps to prevent fuel wash and get a cleaner burn. As stated above. If you’re going to quote stuff do it correctly please instead of trying to make yourself look better because you can obviously tell the reason I wanted it was to increase cylinder temps so you don’t get cylinder wash…hence the “that’s the reasoning behind it” not to idle the truck all night long common man use some common sense.
No point in going in circles with you for no dang reason at all when you clearly don’t know what you’re talking about. This is posted from another forum I found, but my ECM has a different pin out so it don’t match and I’m just trying to find the correct wire on mine.
So now your statement of:
You can't on a manual trans, without a tuner.
So here is the complete full write up on how to do it…WITHOUT a tuner Enjoy!
Manual is a 2 step process. I saved this from another forum. AlfaOBD is the dealer step in the ECU.
this is how to do it on a 6 speed.... thank DTR member "wagonfixin" he is the one who wrote the instructions below:thumbsup
So not to confuse the Dealer when he tries to enable the High Idle in the ECM, it's best if you've electro-mechanically "enabled" it first with either Step-1 or Steps-2 thru 3;
1) Buy the $200 clutch-switch kit from the dealer (
currently discontinued) and install as instructed. - Pass Go - straight to Step 4…
2) Install a "dummy" clutch-switch by shorting the ECM connector-B Pin #22 to ground as follows: (Note this probably circumvents someone’s concept of safe power-train operation as depressing the clutch with this method will not disengage the high-idle "cruise" setting)
2a) Buy a new ECM connector pin (I bought the Cummins Pigtail part number #3164263 for ~$10.00+tax at a local Kenworth dealer) or use an old junk yard harness to salvage a single pin with a ~6"-7" lead.
2b) If you bought the pigtail #3164263, thelead will be too short, so pick up some 18AWG to extend the lead length. Thepigtail already comes with a crimp connector and a heat shrink insulator ready for the extension-lead.
- Crimp the ~5" 18AWG extension-lead into the pigtail and hit the heat-shrink sleeve with a heat-gun (or a lighter!!) Please check your own extension-lead lengths beforecrimping - this ~5" is from my lousy memory !!
- Add a 1/4" ring terminal to the end of the extension lead (this'll connect to a groundpost) - I bought the ones with a semi-clear blue "plastic" sleeve, the sleeve is actually a weather-proof heat shrink. Hit the heat-shrink sleeve with some heat.
3) Remove plug B on the ECM (the 50 pinconnector on the drivers side of the engine closest to the rear of engine with a 4mmAllen screw in the center). Note: this isprobably best done with the both batteriesdisconnected first (I did mine with thebatteries connected - sloppy).
3a) Push (use a paper clip) the sealing plug out of position #22 (starting at to left, count across, there are 50 pins total, #22 is second in from left, third row down) Note:#22 is the PTO/Clutch switch sense terminal (page 8W 80-98 in the shop manual).
3b) Insert the pigtail-lead into the back of the #22 until you feel a positive detent (click), lightly tug the wire to ensure that it's been properly inserted and cannot beremoved. Note: Make sure that you've properly identified #22 - if you've put it into the wrong position, you'll probably need to head over to the dealer to use a special pin removal tool...
3c) Reconnect the ECM connector, don't bother trying to push it on, just seat itsquare on the ECM connector, and carefully thread the 4mm Allen screw until it bottoms out.
3d) Slide the ring-terminal over the lower-left post of the ECM retaining stud (mine stud had an extra ~1" of available thread)
3e) Add a 1/4-28 fine-grade nut to secure the ring-terminal to the ECM retaining stud, torque to... - oh hell - just tighten it !!!
3f) Reconnect the batteries if disconnected.
4) Take the truck to the dealer to enablethe High Idle option. On older models, I think it's an actual TSB (18-004-04) to flash/load the ECM - my '06 just needed it to be enabled.
- If your tech can't figure out what/where a high-idle is (mine didn't know) tell him tofollow these menu options (I think these are from the DRBIII and not the Star tool which they used on my '06)
- With the ignition in the “RUN” position, using the DRBIIIT select:
-> DRBIII Standalone
-> xxxx - xxxx Diagnostics
-> All (Except Below)
-> Engine
-> Misc. Function
-> Idle Up Feature Enable (the option is in the same place as the daylight running lights)
- Ensure that the after the flash option has been loaded to the ECM (TSB 18-004-04) that it also activated - this is a additional step !! Again - note that on my newer '06 they just had to enable it - not flash it as a TSB !!
5) If your tech knows his ABC's - he will know how to verify if the high-idle has been properly loaded/enabled - if not, here's how the high idle on my 6spd worked:
- Start truck.
- Stay off the clutch (if clutch switch was installed) and service brake pedals(recommend setting the parking brake on your 6 speed !!).
- Turn on "cruise".
- Hit "set".
- The engine should come up to 1,100 rpm.
- Then hit or hold accel;
- Each time you hit accel momentarily itshould go up 100 rpm (Max is 1,500 rpm).
- Each time you hit decel momentarily it should go down 100 rpm (Min is 1,100 rpm).
- Hit the service brake pedal, the RPM's should drop back down to the normal ~750.
- Hit the "set" button, it should run back up to 1100 rpm.
- Hit "cruise" to turn off cruise and the RPM's should drop back down to the normal ~750.
6) If you have any follow on TSB's that flash the ECM, remind the service manager (or better yet the tech) to ensure that high-idle is to be re-enabled following the TSBflash. Mine was disabled after applying the 18-003-06 hard-start TSB last week.
7) Smugly recall the fella who posted hisstout-lumber stick "High Idle Management Interface" picture next time you're at a longlight out in the flatlands and hit your"Cruise, Set" buttons... Don't roll into theintersection !!
