5.7 Transmission fluid change

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Wild one

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So this is the proper steps to proceed with?
Post any better links please, the more knowledge the better.
Also, I am the type that likes to do everything I can while things are apart. What are all the parts needed (part #'s if you want too) for a change? Pan/filter, fluid... are there any sensors or hardward that should be replaced while you have things open or easy to get at?
I already changed front/rear axles to Redline fluid a ways back from recommendations here, the trans have a go to as well, or Mopar the choice?

A question about the coolant mod, is it still good for folks in cold climates - looking at dudes like you Wildone - like the trans needs an optimum operating temp range, will the mod drop it out on cold winter stretches?
Use Caulks bypass and keep the thermal unit on the side of the transmission.
Pan and filter + fluid are all you need to change fluid on the 8 speed,use either the OEM 8/9 speed fluid or Valvolene Maxlife. Canadian Diesal in Loydminster AB is the cheapest place to buy the PPE pans,if you're leaning towards one of them.
@Hemi395 found a steel replacement pan that doesn't look bad either though.It's in this video



 
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RamDiver

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This is a link to Jesse Caulk's thermal bypass.


He also has an aluminum replacement cap allowing you to ditch the OE plastic POS.
I plan to get both soon to be prepared for my first ZF fluid change.

See the related products at the bottom of the following page.


The following link is for a bundle price that includes both the thermal bypass valve and the aluminum cap for $75.



Jesse used to handle the Canadastan customers himself, I don't know if that has changed.

@caulk04

The yourautohuckleberry site shows an option to use USPS/Canada Post for $17.50 US.
That's less than my cost (gas+bridge fee+$7 pu fee) to drive to myusaddresss in Ogdensburg and pickup, I'm only 45 minutes away.

.
 
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Buddy

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I also have a '15 Chrysler 200, 9 speed trans. Bought a quart of trans fluid, for 8 & 9 speeds. They certainly like their fluid alot, I was looking for the gold in it when I cracked the top off.

I always head to Ogdensburg for parts myself, UPS Store or Roethels. I make sure I order a few things I need from places to make it worth it. I may look at the site above if I can't think of any other parts...
 

RamDiver

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I also have a '15 Chrysler 200, 9 speed trans. Bought a quart of trans fluid, for 8 & 9 speeds. They certainly like their fluid alot, I was looking for the gold in it when I cracked the top off.

I always head to Ogdensburg for parts myself, UPS Store or Roethels. I make sure I order a few things I need from places to make it worth it. I may look at the site above if I can't think of any other parts...

Yes, I use myusaddress in Ogdensburg for a post box.

I too try to compile a shopping list of parts from AutoZone, HarbourFreight, Walmart, Lowes etc to spread the cost of travel, bridge fees, and post box fees and make the trip more cost-effective.

I may hitch a ride with a buddy who goes regularly, then have the thermal unit sent to Ogdensburg. As soon as we add Canada Post to the plan, things get more complicated resulting in delays and/or CRA/HST charges.

With all the Tariff BS happening these days, I would expect our US shopping trips to start getting gouged again by the CRA.

Like the old days when anything over about $30 would incur an HST charge at the border.

.
 

QwikKota

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Has anyone tried to pump out the fluid to avoid replacing the pan? I know the new pan comes with a filter but I am asking mainly to see if a tube will go in the fill hole and be able to reach the fluid in a deep enough spot to suck out 5 or 6 quarts, etc?
 

caulk04

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Has anyone tried to pump out the fluid to avoid replacing the pan? I know the new pan comes with a filter but I am asking mainly to see if a tube will go in the fill hole and be able to reach the fluid in a deep enough spot to suck out 5 or 6 quarts, etc?
There's a drain plug on the stock pan, no need for any trickery in that respect.
 

QwikKota

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There's a drain plug on the stock pan, no need for any trickery in that respect.
Yeah but the last time I looked at it, it seemed to be molded in and would show broken free when removed. Maybe I am wrong. Why would this part not be solid plastic?

2cf0a6212f7c936%2Fa16363c0aca73ef94d00474ed6e171c9.jpg
 

CanuckRam1313

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Has anyone tried to pump out the fluid to avoid replacing the pan? I know the new pan comes with a filter but I am asking mainly to see if a tube will go in the fill hole and be able to reach the fluid in a deep enough spot to suck out 5 or 6 quarts, etc?
I hear you on the logical ideology of just pumping out old fluid and keeping the filter (not removing the pan itself for replacement). You're not obtuse with this line of thinking whatsoever.

However, the filter, if it has some good usage (mileage) on it... it won't be able to continually filter out "garbage" as it were, whilst dirty... so while new fluid could be present, you filter very little to absolutely nothing (mileage and condition depending), and the overall benefits are diminished exponentially IMPO. Especially if one has a good amount towing/hauling/heat soak on ones present fluid & filter.

However, IMPO, where this thought process could have some initial merit is if one was doing just a fluid drain and refill from the very beginning of ones new vehicle ownership on a very regular basis.

One could then potentially extend the need to replace the filter. But, it wouldn't negate the need for a filter replacement overall though.

But ultimately, the efficacy of the desired result lies in ensuring that fresh fluid and clean filtration are maintained on a regular basis for the longevity of ones transmission.

Just my $0.02 ;)
 
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QwikKota

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I hear you on the logical ideology of just pumping out old fluid and keeping the filter (not removing the pan itself for replacement). You're not obtuse with this line of thinking whatsoever.

However, the filter, if it has some good usage (mileage) on it... it won't be able to continually filter out "garbage" as it were, whilst dirty... so while new fluid could be present, you filter very little to absolutely nothing (mileage and condition depending), and the overall benefits are diminished exponentially IMPO. Especially if one has a good amount towing/hauling/heat soak on ones present fluid & filter.

However, IMPO, where this thought process could have some initial merit is if one was doing just a fluid drain and refill from the very beginning of ones new vehicle ownership on a very regular basis, one could greatly extend the need to replace the filter. But, it wouldn't negate the need for a filter replacement though.

But ultimately, the efficacy of the desired result lies in ensuring that fresh fluid and clean filtration are maintained on a regular basis for the longevity of ones transmission.

Just my $0.02 ;)
Thank you very much. I agree it should all be replaced. I only have 6 quarts of fluid on hand that I bought a while back as it is expensive. I only have 70k miles on my truck so I don't think it 100% needs all new fluid and a filter yet. I will try to drain 5 quarts or so and put that much back in to extend the life to 100k miles. I rarely tow and don't race this truck. I have the lifetime warranty otherwise I would definitely go with the PPE pan and replaceable filter.
 

CanuckRam1313

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Thank you very much. I agree it should all be replaced. I only have 6 quarts of fluid on hand that I bought a while back as it is expensive. I only have 70k miles on my truck so I don't think it 100% needs all new fluid and a filter yet. I will try to drain 5 quarts or so and put that much back in to extend the life to 100k miles. I rarely tow and don't race this truck. I have the lifetime warranty otherwise I would definitely go with the PPE pan and replaceable filter.
I hear you, Brother!

Do remember though, that the OEM of our ZF transmissions specifically outlines that "fluid & filter" should be changed out at 60,000 miles ;)

You're beyond that... so, if you plan on keeping your truck long term... do it all now, and properly.

I would also consider installing the @caulk04 transmission cooler bypass valve at the same time!!

You'll drop your trans temps by up to 30 deg/c and your engine temps by 3 to 5 deg/c as well.

My $0.02!
 

QwikKota

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I hear you, Brother!

Do remember though, that the OEM of our ZF transmissions specifically outlines that "fluid & filter" should be changed out at 60,000 miles ;)

You're beyond that... so, if you plan on keeping your truck long term... do it all now, and properly.

I would also consider installing the @caulk04 transmission cooler bypass valve at the same time!!

You'll drop your trans temps by up to 30 deg/c and your engine temps by 3 to 5 deg/c as well.

My $0.02!
I see a few ZF branded 8HP70 pans on eBay that have ZF molded in and say made in Germany for $90. $300 is nuts for a plastic pan.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/135226396736

I wonder if an AL PPE pan would cause the dealer to deny a warranty claim?

I will keep the bypass valve in mind. What is the AL cap for that is mentioned on the website?
 

RamDiver

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I see a few ZF branded 8HP70 pans on eBay that have ZF molded in and say made in Germany for $90. $300 is nuts for a plastic pan.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/135226396736

I wonder if an AL PPE pan would cause the dealer to deny a warranty claim?

I will keep the bypass valve in mind. What is the AL cap for that is mentioned on the website?

I suspect they would have to prove a non-OEM pan caused the specific failure although, they might try to deny coverage.

The aluminum cap replaces a plastic POS that some people damage during R&R.
I plan to get both, but for the package price, it's a bit silly to spend much time thinking about it. :cool:

.
 

EdGs

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Yeah but the last time I looked at it, it seemed to be molded in and would show broken free when removed. Maybe I am wrong. Why would this part not be solid plastic?

View attachment 563186
Because some bean counter figued out that they save a couple pennies per drain plug.....lol.

Since the OE pan is $306 on RockAuto Im gonna spring for a PPE pan. I would like the shallower one, too. I need to get a bypass from Jesse, too.

Money has been super tight, which screws up the mix.

Leaning towards just doing a drain and fill on my OE setup, and then another with a pan change a little down the road.
 

QwikKota

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Because some bean counter figued out that they save a couple pennies per drain plug.....lol.

Since the OE pan is $306 on RockAuto Im gonna spring for a PPE pan. I would like the shallower one, too. I need to get a bypass from Jesse, too.

Money has been super tight, which screws up the mix.

Leaning towards just doing a drain and fill on my OE setup, and then another with a pan change a little down the road.
I figured. I worked for a South African guy who switched us from a quality USA made Banjo ball valve to some Ningbo China valve to save $2 per tank (IBC). The new valves leaked all the time and caused tons of insurance claims.

I may call a dealer and see what they think about the PPE pan voiding warranty but that may hold as much water as a colander.

I have 6 quarts on hand I bought a few years back, no doubt it's gone up in price too. Curious to see how dark my 72k mile fluid is.
 

EdGs

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I figured. I worked for a South African guy who switched us from a quality USA made Banjo ball valve to some Ningbo China valve to save $2 per tank (IBC). The new valves leaked all the time and caused tons of insurance claims.

I may call a dealer and see what they think about the PPE pan voiding warranty but that may hold as much water as a colander.

I have 6 quarts on hand I bought a few years back, no doubt it's gone up in price too. Curious to see how dark my 72k mile fluid is.
At 108k, my fluid was dark:
20210101_173936 (2).jpg

But when I broke it out, the filter media did not look too bad to me.

Top (Trans) side:
20210102_095153 (1).jpg

Bottom (Fluid) side:
20210102_095432 (1).jpg

Some specks of aluminum and a small sliver of bronze.

This intake side is a little darker from the dark fluid, but I am hoping that just a drain and fill will be sufficient for the immediate short-term, and then a PPE pan with new fluid hopefully in the not-too-distant future.
 
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QwikKota

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That's not too bad. At least the filter is not just a metal screen like on some vehicles.

From a warranty standpoint, at some age and mileage the vehicle will be worth more than a new transmission and labor. For the MaxCare warranty, if the value of the truck is less than the repairs, they pay you the market value and walk away. I may roll the dice on the PPE pan at 100k as maintenance is important to keep the truck going.

If anyone is curious, the OEM pan P/N molded in is 0501220214. I don't see many hits doing a search for this number compared to the BMW version, for example.
 

Buddy

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At 108k, my fluid was dark:
View attachment 563250

But when I broke it out, the filter media did not look too bad to me.

Top (Trans) side:
View attachment 563247

Bottom (Fluid) side:
View attachment 563248

Some specks of aluminum and a small sliver of bronze.

This intake side is a little darker from the dark fluid, but I am hoping that just a drain and fill will be sufficient for the immediate short-term, and then a PPE pan with new fluid hopefully in the not-too-distant future.
So I don't wanna sound spaced out, but I have a quart of that same trans fluid, same part #, same packaging. Bought new from dealer. It isn't greenish like that, it's darker like a traditional oil. Are there differnet colors of the same fluid?
 
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