$50 REWARD for solution - 97 Laramie 5.9 - DYING

[ViolentMouse]

On a 97 5.9 the truck will run even with the oxygen sensors cut and the wires twisted together, it will default to open loop mode and provide a simulated voltage.

We need to find out what you are losing when it dies. I will check the codes you provided tomorrow when I am at the shop.

If you are losing spark when it dies... crank sensor
If you are losing fuel injectors when it dies... cam sensor

Does it only die when driving or will it just shut off if left idling? If only when driving and when letting off the gas pedal You could have a clogged throttle body or a bad Idle Air Control Valve.

Even if you replace the IACV, if the air passages for the IACV are clogged, it will still die when you let off the gas. (too rich, no idle air.)

If your throttle body is loose, it can die when you let off the gas. (too lean, not enough idle fuel.)

You really need a scanner that can show you live data so that you can look at your long term and short term fuel trims. That data is really crucial in determining if you have some kind of too rich or too lean issue.

If you still need help dialing this issue down feel free to hit me up I can walk you through every step and provide data for every wire to test.

 

[ViolentMouse]

P0132 and P0138 is both bank 1 o2 sensors show a short to voltage. Are you using direct fit o2 sensors? or universal sensors that need to be wired?
Also you need to be very certain of which sensor goes where. as the wires do move around.

I suggest buying all new o2 sensors at a stealership and having the stealership mark the boxes for the exact position so you cannot mix them up.

p0135 is a o2 sensor heater code, likely caused by the incorrect wiring at the sensors.


while all of these make sense they should not cause the vehicle to stall.

The p0351 is your coil primary circuit. Here is where things get interesting. if your ASD relay is failing... you will NOT get peak voltage on the primary circuit causing stalls and backfires.

If your terminals for your ASD relay are loose, or corroded, it can cause the same thing.

that DTC sets with: Powertrain Control Module does not see peak current reached.

Possible Causes:
Ignition coil primary circuit open, or shorted driver circuit, Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay output circuit, orbad PCM

You have done the PCM a couple times, lets stop chasing that ghost. With key on engine off measure voltage at the +terminal of the coil, you should have battery voltage there.
wiggle the harness from the PCM to the coil and see if voltage changes. if not, then start chasing down the ASD relay as it would be the likely culprit.

 

[yogibear18]

What brand O2 sensors you using?

 

[Skatulaki]

Agree on using OEM Crank position sensor.

"6/21/21 - 170811 - REPLACED PICK-UP COIL YET AGAIN. Found P0441 problem. Vapor canister barrier disolved and filled all evap lines with charcoal all the way up to the purge valve. REPLACED VAPOR CANISTER AND PURGE VALVE, CLEARED LINES. Still won't run for even a minute."

I had an 83 one time that acted a lot like that, the charcoal filter or "coffee can" as we called it did the same thing and the charcoal beads got in the carb. It would quit, come to find out they would float out and after a min or two it would start back up, after a while they would plug the carb up again and it would quit again, repeat. Maybe you didn't get everything clear.

I also had a 97 Jeep that would quit a lot. I'd be going 70mph down the highway and it would just die. Couple minutes later start back up and go again. Problem ended up being the battery connectors of all things. As I recall I replaced both cables and had no more problems.

Hope this helps

 

[fulltimerart]

Make sure that the battery is grounded to the engine, to the frame and to the body. I fixed an older Bronco years ago by installing a ground strap between the engine and body-----the original had rusted and lost contact. With todays electronics a good ground is real important, Good luck, Art

 

[Skatulaki]

yes most electronics use ground switching these days, so yes very important, but the man says he checked all the grounds.

 

[Skatulaki]

Ok everybody racking their brains out on this one. Lets step back and rethink this !

1. The only reasons for it to stop running is A. Loss of fuel, B. Loss of fire, or C. Loss of Air.

2. Lets think about this logically. If it quits and takes a while to start up. If he pours some gas into the throttle body, not too much, because you dont want a backfire fire, and it fires for even a few seconds, then we can probably narrow this down to a fuel issue. If it doesn't fire, then its probably an ignition issue. Running with open intake should rule out any loss of air issue.

3. So lets first try to help isolate which part of the system is actually failing !

4. He previously stated that it seemed to happen more on hot days, so what about this scenario?

The computer is suppossed to shut down the engine if it exceeds a certain temp, in order to
not damage the engine. What if the engine is overheating, or intermittanly overheating for
whatever reason, or the temperature sensor is falsely telling the computer to shut down, OR
maybe the dash gauge is faulty, and not revealing high temp issue? Leaving the operator
unaware that the engine is overheating? Is this possible?

 

[Cadiram]

Based on your latest o2 and cat codes It looks your scan tool is capable of live data. Go back a check what the o2 sensors are doing from a little Google research the plenum gasket is a common issue creating vacuum in crank case thus pulling oil into engine contaminating your new o2s, /catalytic. and depending on if engine is in open or closed loop or limp mod default there's no telling how it's going to be running. Isolate pvc system check for no vacuum in crank case and or look down throttle body for signs of oil. And keep your $50 for more parts if this helps,

 

[fuxorsion]

I believe it's your fuse box. Moisture and corrosion end up infiltrating it (and/or the connectors) over the years and can wreak all kinds of havoc with the electrical system. This is why you are getting such sporadic and confusing diagnostic codes. The OBD system is highly ineffective in this case and causes more confusion than anything.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Wow! It seems as though this is one of those thousand dollar problems with the one dollar solution which my mentor warned me about when I was a young grasshopper! The one thread of consistency is the dying regularly after very short run times coupled with nearly immediate restarts every time. It's high time the vehicle have an 8 channel oscilloscope hooked up and the entire system be evaluated. I suspect an ASD relay type failure. It's likely to be one of those "OMG, is THAT what was wrong!?... How was THAT missed?" problems!

 

[MikeysCars]

My son had a S-10 one time that did this. He spent gobs of money trying to fix it by changing parts. He had a new pcm put in it under the dash and that helped stop it for a while. Then the heater core went bad and while the guy was fixing it he found a secondary ground off the pcm that was corroded and loose. He fixed it and the truck ran perfect the next 2 years my son had it. So I tend to agree that your problem is most likely a bad grounding trigger to the pcm. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[seanclark1503]

I’m with Hero6 on this one. Believe you me I don’t want to go to the dealership for anything… HOWEVER , I just had a throttle position sensor go out on my ‘08 and both O’reillys and Napa gave me not the wrong part per say , it was the only one that their inventory systems were ever going to tell either of them was for my truck. That being said , after a week of bs I finally went to the dealer and only had to paid an extra $47 for the right part. Part was obtainable nowhere else mind you , part was right the first time AND I found out Mopar had changed the ‘ AB ‘ in Mopart # to ‘AE’ and when I went back to both other places and they looked up the new # it came up with the same part. Simply put , had I never went to the dealer for that part, I wouldn’t have ever got my truck running again. I know I can get the crank sensor for $20 online (and I do) instead of $250 at the dealership but I don’t have any other problems with it after installing the cheaper part. Sorry this is so long, I don’t post much so don’t worry. I saw that you’ve replaced the PCM x 2 but if codes aren’t making sense nor showing at all then the ECM is suspect. Anyway, thank you for your service to this country and nobody here want your money, you’ve already spent too much. Next time let’s start this convo sooner. Good luck !
Sorry I forgot to check if the ‘97 has what’s considered an ECM or if that’s with the PCM .

 

[teddybeartruck]

Hi Prideless, I posted a reply but being new I misunderstood how to post. Check it out under teddybeartruck (it think). By the way, I agree with MiKeyCars with the S10.

 

[MAC830203]

Did this get fixed? Love to hear how or what was the issue. Same issue with both the up and downstream sensor ground wires. Had to do a full review of all ground sensor connectors. Drove me nuts finding it.

 

[ramtruckdriver]

Broken primary wire(s) to ignition coil, the fan causes varied air movement, vibrating the wires which in turn breaks the copper in wire

 

[ramtruckdriver]

The connector you have look as this one?

 

[Dean2]

I don't get it, OP started this thread back in early July,begged and pleaded for help, got lots. Now end of Dec and haven't heard squat in many months, last time he posted was August. Why are you guys still trying to help, doesn't seem like he is even reading this stuff.

 

[ramtruckdriver]

Dean, he is in contact, as recently as 40 minutes ago, through IM. Keeps the thread from filling with quotes, I couldn't post a picture in IM, so I went through the thread instead

 

[Dean2]

Fair enough. Always hope a guy finally gets it figured out after so much time and expense. Be interested to hear updates and final outcome.

 

[Rado]

Prideless​

Any UPDATES ? Was this ever figured out ?