6.4 Hemi Ticking/Rough Idle/Misfire

[amurp15]

I know @diymirage just posted an almost identical issue, but it seems like he's going the upgrade route, and I would like the 'fix this as cheaply as possible route'.

I have a 2016 2500 6.4 with 205k miles. Engine light came on one day, cylinder 4 misfire, rougher than usual idle (nothing crazy), a couple of instances right after startup of a nasty ticking, but otherwise normal operation. I took it upon myself to swap spark plugs, coil, and fuel injector with cylinder 2, same issues, same codes. Took it to the shop to have them pull the valve cover, and they tell me the pushrod in cylinder 4 is bent and sent me some pictures. I used to be a dealership mechanic, but I've never done any internal engine work, so maybe this is my untrained eye, but I can't see what they're talking about. I'll throw the pictures down at the bottom to see if you guys can spot it.

Anyway, they said an engine replacement would be cheaper than replacing just the valve, because the engine has to come out of the truck to replace the pushrods. Do you seriously have to pull the whole engine out to pull off the cylinder head? The passenger side head, which is the one with the misfire, seems pretty spacious around that side of the engine bay, like you could remove the head while its still in the truck, but again, I don't know anything about this kind of stuff. So for now, I'm just driving around with the bent valve, hoping it doesn't blow out the side of the engine. Kind of lost on what to do next, $15k seems a little steep for one busted valve.

Any past experience, tips, and tricks are always welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

[Burla]

Just take it to a different shop. But did they at least tell you cost of new engine?

 

[amurp15]

Sorry, pictures from the shop attached. Second picture is supposed to show one that isn't bent.

 

[amurp15]

Just take it to a different shop. But did they at least tell you cost of new engine?

cost of the new engine + labor was roughly $15k. parts and labor were not quoted separately

 

[diymirage]

cost of the new engine + labor was roughly $15k. parts and labor were not quoted separately

Depending on how deep into Indiana you are you may want to give my shop a call
They can do a remanded engine with 3 years, unlimited miles warranty for under 7K installed (that was on a 5.7, but I can't imagine a 6.4 is much more expensive)

I just looked at the bill, and labor was $2400

I paid a little more to get the hotter cam and valve train, plus the required tuning to make it all play nice

 

[amurp15]

Definitely need the name of that shop! That sounds way better than my quote, and definitely worth the drive to Michigan.

 

[diymirage]

Here ya go

Google Search

(I hope)

Ask for Moe, he's the guy who builds the engines and should be able to tell you where a 6.4 would land

 

[Burla]

Depending on how deep into Indiana you are you may want to give my shop a call
They can do a remanded engine with 3 years, unlimited miles warranty for under 7K installed (that was on a 5.7, but I can't imagine a 6.4 is much more expensive)

I just looked at the bill, and labor was $2400

I paid a little more to get the hotter cam and valve train, plus the required tuning to make it all play nice

What parts did this include? Heads and stuff like alt included in that? Or just the bottom and top stuff came from yours? Very reasonable for sure.

 

[dieselscout80]

View attachment 573410View attachment 573411
Sorry, pictures from the shop attached. Second picture is supposed to show one that isn't bent.

Your pictures are of the valves not the push rods. So which are they saying is bent on #4 the push rods or the valve stems?

 

[nlambert182]

It does look like something is out of whack... this spring retainer looks like it isn't sitting parallel. That definitely *might* indicate a bent rod or something amiss. I would think that there should be equal distance from the retainer to the top of the rod.



That looks to be true on the others you posted a pic of.

 

[amurp15]

Your pictures are of the valves not the push rods. So which are they saying is bent on #4 the push rods or the valve stems?

My mistake, meant to say valve, not pushrod.

 

[amurp15]

It does look like something is out of whack... this spring retainer looks like it isn't sitting parallel. That definitely *might* indicate a bent rod or something amiss. I would think that there should be equal distance from the retainer to the top of the rod.

View attachment 573422

That looks to be true on the others you posted a pic of.

View attachment 573423

I see what you mean....that could be what they're talking about

 

[diymirage]

What parts did this include? Heads and stuff like alt included in that? Or just the bottom and top stuff came from yours? Very reasonable for sure.

Pretty sureit was a remanunfactured long block including the heads, but then they added in the cam stuff

This is what it showed on the receipt, the first page is their breakdown, the second is the order from Texas Speed

 

[amurp15]

Pretty sureit was a remanunfactured long block including the heads, but then they added in the cam stuff

This is what it showed on the receipt, the first page is their breakdown, the second is the order from Texas Speed

what made you replace your 6.4 with the 5.7?

 

[diymirage]

what made you replace your 6.4 with the 5.7?

No, mine never was a 6.4, i actually asked em about swapping in a 6.4 but the 6 speed wouldnt play well with it

The o.p. has a 6.4 though

 

[amurp15]

Ah, my mistake. Got confused, too many red trucks

 

[diymirage]

Ah, my mistake. Got confused, too many red trucks

No problem
The only paint requirements I had when buying one is that it couldn't be white (I already got a work truck)

 

[HEMIMANN]

Make sure you don't have metal throughout the engine 1st. If you do, you need a new or remanufactured engine.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Did they tell you what caused the problem?

I'd like to know so I could avoid it.

Thanks

 

[amurp15]

They did not...in hindsight, they were very friendly but not very helpful. I don't have any oil leaks and I change oil every 5k (0W-40 Mobil1), however, I do usually have to add a quart between oil changes. My assumption is that my piston rings aren't sealing as well as they should and its burning some oil. Maybe I let it get too low last time, but that just a stab in the dark. Its also got 205k miles on an original engine, which from what I've heard is right around average or slightly above in terms of life span.