97 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 5.9L Keeps dying, NO CODES, No Warnings

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
5/28/20 - I put this on dodgetalk.com, been reviewed 29 times in 48 hours, with zero (0) replies. Any help HERE? Thanks.


This is about the 10th time this has happened. I am sick of this. I've gone through this forum and replaced everything suggested except the truck itself. I have replaced all the following in the order listed.
1 - Gas Cap
2 - Ignition Coil
3 - Ignition Switch
4 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
5 - Have a distributor ignition pick-up coil on order.

Here's what happened first. Drove about 20 miles, went in store for about 10 minutes. drove back home. It momentarily sputtered and cut off in my driveway right as I was getting ready to cut it off myself. Would not start back up until waiting about 5 minutes. There was a strong smell of gas near the tank but not under the hood. I just dismissed this as a fluke.

Next time. Drove about 40 miles with few stops, but when slowed down into slower traffic it died again. Same gas smell, restarted in about 5 minutes.

Next time. Drove 13 miles, stopped at stoplight for about a minute, then it just cut off without any warning. In the middle of the worst, busiest part of town at the busiest time of day. I called 911 on this one. In about 5 minutes, before help arrived, got it restarted and moved off the road. Died 3 more times on the way back home.

After replacing all 4 of the items above, one by one, test driving, it continues to die. Today, drove it 12 miles, stopped at a stop sign, and it died. Five minutes later, it started.

What has become clear and repeatable after 10 or 12 times is that something is heating up, then malfunctioning. A brief cooling and it is ready to repeat itself. As long as the truck is going down the road constantly at 50 to 70 mph it seems to be fine. Once the vehicle stops and there is no air circulation, it heats up and dies.

The engine runs perfect. Is has yet to throw any codes, and except for the sputter the very first time, it never give any warning. I just grit my teeth when I come to a stop, because I know the chances are that it will die right there.

It is easy to see how the coil or crankshaft position sensor could malfunction and open up when heated, then work again when cooled, but these weren't the problem. The pick-up coil was replaced only about 15,000 miles back when troubleshooting a problem that ended up being the fuel pump, but I am willing to replace it again as this forum suggests. It will be here next week.

I cannot bring myself to suspect the fuel pump, simply because I can smell excess fuel. I am 90% certain there is an ignition problem. If the fuel was getting burned, then I probably wouldn't smell it, but I will keep an open mind at this point. As stated, the engine runs great, but it does seem to be getting much poorer gas mileage since this started.

I am an ex jet engine mechanic, disabled veteran, on a fixed income, so I cannot afford to take it to a dealer, as I have seen some do on this forum, and pay to not get it resolved (as I have also seen on this forum).

This truck has never failed to throw any codes for all kinds of issues, but it is being really stubborn here.

!!!ANY AND ALL HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
 

JohnnyMac

There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.
Military
Joined
Mar 31, 2018
Posts
2,558
Reaction score
2,920
Location
SouthWest Washington
Ram Year
2018 1500 Laramie
Engine
3.0 EcoBurner
Have you checked the plenum gasket. If you google it, there are a few ways to check it without too much difficulty. Just a thought as these are high failure items on the 5.9's and cause rough running, terrible mpgs.
 

pacofortacos

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2017
Posts
3,564
Reaction score
4,341
Ram Year
2016
Engine
5.7
Spitballing over a keyboard is tough.

Try this though for a couple of trips and see what changes.
Unplug ALL O2 sensors and leave unplugged, then disconnect the battery and turn the key to start while the battery is disconnected. Leave O2 sensors unplugged, reconnect the battery and drive it with the O2 sensors unplugged (make sure the plugs can't hit a hot exhaust and melt).

Pay attention also to your first startup after reconnecting the battery, it should start and idle but if it starts but won't idle unless you give it some gas then chances are your throttle body is dirty and needs cleaned and/or PCV is bad.
ENGINE OFF for the following -Throttle body just look down into it with the motor off - if it is black around the throttle plates just clean it with carb cleaner on a rag using your finger (manually open the throttle to get all of it)

Try this and let us know what happens. At least it is easy and cheap to do.
 
OP
OP
P

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
Have you checked the plenum gasket. If you google it, there are a few ways to check it without too much difficulty. Just a thought as these are high failure items on the 5.9's and cause rough running, terrible mpgs.
It runs great, never any warning that it's going to cut off. Thanks.
 

crazykid1994

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Posts
5,040
Reaction score
4,963
Location
Florida
Ram Year
2017
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Iac? If it only shuts off during decel or idle it may be the idle air control valve attatchec to the throttle body. Pull it and clean the port it goes in to make sure it’s cleaned out and no gunk to get hung up on. Do not force clean the iac or you will damage it. I’m not sure if you can test the iac for proper operation.
 
OP
OP
P

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
Thank you for this suggestion. This was the first on this forum to make any sense based on the symptoms. I drive the truck very little so it took a while to get around to it. I replaced the idle air control solenoid, and cleaned the port it came out of with carb cleaner. So far so good but only time will tell. For the first time in the last few trips, it NEVER cut off. I only drove it a total of 38 miles, and it was a rather cool day, 73° was the high. Had it been 90°, I would be more confident. I will try to give an update when I have more information. Thanks again.
 
OP
OP
P

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
FAILURE! Still chasing a gremlin. Drove today in 96º weather. In 13 miles it died. The longest I ever had to wait before was 20 minutes. I nearly called a tow at the 55 minute point, then it started. Went about my business making 3 shopping stops, no more than 8 more miles total, then it died. I waited..... and waited.... after 2 hours I had to have it towed home. It still didn't start when I got it home. I'll try it during the coolest part of the evening. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
 

crazykid1994

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Posts
5,040
Reaction score
4,963
Location
Florida
Ram Year
2017
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Sounds like possible computer failure at that point. If possible see if you can find another ecm to swap in. 55minutes doesn’t sound like engine cooling down. Not 100% though.
 

vdemarco

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Posts
70
Reaction score
56
Location
San Jose
Ram Year
2020
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Fuel pump or relay, or possibly a wiring harness connection. Time to drop the tank and look at the connections. A vehicle that age the rubber in the vacuum and vapor recovery systems is brittle. That could be why you’re smelling fuel.
My 97 had similar issues, the fuel pump died. Check the fuel pressure.

My truck would restart after sitting for awhile.

but eventually the pump just died.

I would get a pressure gauge and stick it on, and check that.
 

thestuntboy

Senior Member
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Posts
159
Reaction score
314
Location
CT
Ram Year
1999 2500/2001 2500/2018 3500
Engine
8.0/5.9 gas/6.4
Just for fun ,next time it dies ,swap the fuel pump relay with another relay in the engine bay. If it starts up you have a starting point. My 2001 5.9 would die inexplicably as well when on a whim I swapped relays and it fired up. Kept doing it though but always refired when I traded relays. I finally got tired of it and not finding the problem (pump swap etc.) I ran a separate wiring harness to the fuel pump using the ignition hot of the relay terminal and a fuel pump pigtail I scavenged. That was several years ago and haven't had a problem since. The harness was from summit racing and had a breaker in case of overload. Swapping relays wont cost you a dime and takes a few minuets.
 
OP
OP
P

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
It didn't crank at all. Completely dead this time. At least now I can find the corpse.


IT IS FIXED! (I think). I decided to start all over again, before reading the above post. I have been chasing a ghost. I have been convinced the entire time I had no ignition. Just to complete this post for anyone else chasing a similar ghost, I will fill you in. In checking for spark on both # 1 and # 2 cyls, I was shocked (not electrically) to find that I am getting ignition. OMG... Time to start over. The '97 5.9L TBI has no pressure port on the fuel rail, but it is easy to pull one clip and take the pressure directly off the supply line to the fuel rail. NO PRESSURE. The fuel pump is not running.

Pulled tank. Pulled pump, disassembled, expecting to find a dead motor. Tested and found motor to be just fine. Did find where the fuel leak was coming from. There is a cap on top of the fuel pump module assembly over a 5/16 port. I was cracked nearly all the way around the top... one bump and it fell apart.

The culprit was indeed the wiring harness connection. The connector not only had the connector lock missing (the little red clip), but the connector won't mechanically click into place. Cleaned the terminals and assembled with a locking clip. Though the connector doesn't lock as designed, without the clip it slid apart easily with vibration.

Unless this was just another gremlin in the line of ghosts I have been chasing, I am pretty confident it is now fixed. I will update with any new pertinent info.

Thank you to all that followed this with me. FIX: ANOTHER SIMPLE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
 

Bill Blackmon

Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2020
Posts
41
Reaction score
32
Location
Brentwood, TN
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9
Clean you throttle body. I had the same problem with my 97. Cleaned throttle body with throttle body spray cleaner and problem went away. I now clean my throttle bodies every three months or so. This may help your problem.
 
OP
OP
P

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
PLEASE CLOSE THIS THREAD

I have given up on THIS thread. Restarted this conversation in a new thread entitled "

$50 REWARD for solution - 97 Laramie 5.9 - DYING"​


Thank you for all attempts to resolve my issue.
 

rule18

Admin
Staff member
Administrator
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2013
Posts
7,130
Reaction score
8,053
Location
NY
Ram Year
2017 Rebel
A few posts ago you indicated that your issue is fixed, is it not? I'll gladly close the thread, but have your gremlins returned?
 

ramtruckdriver

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Posts
18
Reaction score
2
Location
Sudbury Ontario
Ram Year
2019
Engine
5.7
Air from fan vibrating primary wiring to coil, thus breaking copper internally, while idling tap harness, or tug test each wire, usually breaks near connector
 
OP
OP
P

Prideless

Junior Member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Posts
28
Reaction score
19
Location
NC
Ram Year
1997
Engine
5.9L-360 Narutally Aspirated
Air from fan vibrating primary wiring to coil, thus breaking copper internally, while idling tap harness, or tug test each wire, usually breaks near connector
Anecdotal evidence suggests we may have a BINGO! here. But It may take some time to check the card. Replaced coil primary pigtail all the way into the spiral sheathing. Drove 2 quick trips today, the first time it did not cut off on a trip in 2 years, but I still have issues (clearly ones I created along the way). The first trip, 6 miles, left me with PO132, PO138, and PO121. These have existed since I replaced the Throttle position sensor and the oxygen sensors. When I got back for the first trip I put the old TPS back on, reset, and drove it another 10 miles. The light came on about the same place into the trip, about 2 miles.

When I got back the TPS code was not there, only the oxy sensor codes. I replaced the oxygen sensors once ONLY because I replaced the CAT, but it threw these codes right away. I sent the sensors back complaining they were defective, got a different, more expensive brand to be safe... same thing.

I am considering putting back on the OLD oxy sensors to see what happens, because it was not throwing these codes with the old sensors. BUT I know for a fact one of them is defective. It had two wires clearly broken on it, one so close to the housing that it cannot be repaired, but it wasn't throwing any codes.

I will update when I can. I just had a little time to mess with it today. Lets figure out how to get you that reward too. Thanks!
 

tr121336

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2017
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Sumerduck, Virginia
Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.9L - 360 cid
I had same problem on my truck. Ended up being a fuel pump. Twice ran great, then it would shut off had it towed both times.
 

MAC830203

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2021
Posts
77
Reaction score
27
Location
Beaufort, SC
Ram Year
1996
Engine
Magnum 408
First, sounds like another chase. Sometimes and you’ll know it’s pretty simple when you find it. Check every single ground wire and connection. No codes might be a fuel pump. Pretty easy to check. Another no code is that little Map sensor rubber elbow. I use a snap on tool to read and check all the voltage etc. another weird one is plug wires shorting out. Or bad dist cap. Sometimes it won’t give a code but scanner notes high volts in coil prime circuit. That was a Dstream o2. Second time was a TPS. My truck was a headache until I replaced all the sensor ground signal wires. A group connection had corroded. Lots of fun. EFI loves good ground wires and I doubled up. O2 sensor issues don’t show up til in a closed loop. About 10 min. Sorry can’t tell you more. But when you solve it, c’mon back so dummies like me will know.
 
Top