AC not charging

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marininn

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1998
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5.9 24v
Issues with 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 AC

I had a hole get rubbed in aluminum lower pressure line. I tried to run AC for weeks (probably compressor never came on) until I tried putting in coolant and could hear it blowing out the hole.

I replaced the line, used off ebay, so not sure about it. New accumulator. Added oil to the high pressure line and some in the condenser (at the radiator/front). System holds the vacuum for days.

Was not able to add coolant. Did the vacuum for an hour, then with manifold tried coolant, but compressor never came on. 12 volts at low switch and none at compressor clutch.
I jumped the relay to make clutch engage but still nothing happens - clutch spins but no coolant is sucked in and the psi stays exactly the same. The gauges say about 80 psi on both high and low (I think the 80 is what the can pressurized the lines up to, since it was a vacuum before, is only way I can think it got pressurized). There was coolant in the window, but on second attempt after unhooking and rehooking with differnt manifold it all there was no coolant in window). While it is possible that the rental tools are bad, I doubt it as I was able to pull a vacuum on the system (noticed different pressure initially with valve closed then open), but who knows… Not a lot of moving parts on the manifold. Also, fuse is good.

Compressor should come on if system is at 80psi, but unless the pressure did not make it back to the valve/switch somehow. Everything worked before the hole, so I have to assume something electrical did not go bad just coincidentally in the few weeks. But seems like something electrical since I know the wiring between relay and clutch is working, would have to be the panel switch, or is there CPU involvement?

or
I suspect a 100% clog somewhere. Should I assume that? Means I need to do a flush.
flush questions:
Is the new dryer fine? no circulation seems to have happened so should not be any debris moved around. I ran the compressor for less than 5 mins with it jumped.
I have read that some vehicles, newer than mine maybe, if a clog happens the condenser (or is it the evaporator?) cannot be un-clogged and needs to be replaced. These are $80-100. The evap, in the dash, is way too hard to replace so is very last on the list of things I want to do. Do I need to replace the condenser on a 1998 Dodge ram?
Compressor seems fine. If debris, can it be cleaned?
The H-valve seems to be behind the firewall, so that would also be hard to take out.
 

crash68

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If the compressor clutch is engaging and the high and low pressures don't change, chances are the compressor is no good. We're both the valves on the gauge manifold closed?
If there was a restriction, the high side would go really high and the low would drop to the low pressure control cut out or into a vacuum if your jumping the relay out.
 
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marininn

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Thanks.
I was hoping compressor was fine. It worked up until the hole developed, and I can't figure how a hole would kill compressor since it would not run after pressure is gone due to the cut-off switch. I am hesitant to go that route.
It is a rental tool but is it possible for the tool to be bad? If a tool can go bad then these people will be the ones to damage it, every tool I have rented has had issues.

Also, best I can tell there is no H-valve, just an orifice, and I think on the 1998.5 it is right at the condenser? I want to check it for debris. Later models were in the tube behind battery #2.

I will do a flush, so waiting to open it up at the last minute so I can keep the dryer out as little as possible, (still have the plastic caps).
 

Moparfanatic21

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Thanks.
I was hoping compressor was fine. It worked up until the hole developed, and I can't figure how a hole would kill compressor since it would not run after pressure is gone due to the cut-off switch. I am hesitant to go that route.
It is a rental tool but is it possible for the tool to be bad? If a tool can go bad then these people will be the ones to damage it, every tool I have rented has had issues.

Also, best I can tell there is no H-valve, just an orifice, and I think on the 1998.5 it is right at the condenser? I want to check it for debris. Later models were in the tube behind battery #2.

I will do a flush, so waiting to open it up at the last minute so I can keep the dryer out as little as possible, (still have the plastic caps).
No oil getting back to the compressor
 
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