AlfaOBD

[WTM75]

I'm lucky on that one, if I understand correctly, 2017 and 2018 don't need to have the RF hub replaced.
I should be good to go because I have my wonderful M2Mods Deereguy bypass harness, OBDMX and AlfaODB.

The forum and this thread ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I believe you still need the 4 digit code and you have to do a RF hub reboot to get the remote start to work.

 

[kad]

I believe you still need the 4 digit code and you have to do a RF hub reboot to get the remote start to work.

I believe WTM is correct. It's during the reboot/reset process that the RF hub picks up the changed settings from the BCM.

-K

 

[kad]

Just getting my feet wet here in preparation for my seat install this weekend. In looking around at the settings I need to enable, there is mention of some settings in the ECU #5 section. Looking at my BCM export I don't show that section. I see ECU #3 & #4 sections, but no #5. What could I be overlooking?

I don't have an ECU 5 section in mine either. I would do a search in your BCM dump for the specific items and see if they are in another section.

-K

 

[likes2build]

Thank you both very much, I'll be doing this soon as the pins arrive, they are scheduled to arrive today or Monday. I do have my 4 digit pin so I'm ok there.

I'm not sure what an RF hub reboot is or how to do it. I went into the RF hub with Alfa and clicked on the remote start antenna test and it showed "FAILED" . Can I please get an education here of what I have to enable to have a working remote start besides grounding #11, enabling the hood lock switch setting, VTA just for an extra plus?
My log shows,
Remote Start Present: Yes
CBC I/O Hood Ajar Switch Input Present: Set
VTA Warning LED Output Present: Set
VTA Ajar Monitoring: Set

If I need to pull the upholstery that overs the RF hub to see the pn# and if it has an antenna, I will.

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[mjf6175]

Thank you both very much, I'll be doing this soon as the pins arrive, they are scheduled to arrive today or Monday. I do have my 4 digit pin so I'm ok there.

I'm not sure what an RF hub reboot is or how to do it. I went into the RF hub with Alfa and clicked on the remote start antenna test and it showed "FAILED" . Can I please get an education here of what I have to enable to have a working remote start besides grounding #11, enabling the hood lock switch setting, VTA just for an extra plus?
My log shows,
Remote Start Present: Yes
CBC I/O Hood Ajar Switch Input Present: Set
VTA Warning LED Output Present: Set
VTA Ajar Monitoring: Set

If I need to pull the upholstery that overs the RF hub to see the pn# and if it has an antenna, I will.

Any help is greatly appreciated

L2B......when you reset the RFH hub you are making the RFH hub re-read your BCM. When it does this the RFH hub looks for changes made in the BCM and then makes changes to the hub so that the sittings mirror each other. Right now your RFH hub does not mirror your BCM settings for the remote start. So you need to do that "reset" procedure.

To reset the RFH hub, after you open the Alpha program instead of going to BCM Module that is on the second line under the line in the program where you will have "1500 Ram":
-use the drop down to go to "RADIO FREQUENCY HUB (RFH)" (instead of the "BCM" setting you usually go to)
-then for SELECT CONTROL UNIT you pick" RADIO FREQUENCY HUB"
-connect to the HUB
-you will see a warning screen and at the top you will also see SELECT PROCEDURE TO START
-select" RF-HUB RESET/REPLACE"
-next screen you will be asked to enter your 4 digit PIN, enter it
-press start
-when its finished you will get a PROCEDURE COMPLETE
-back out of the program

 

[likes2build]

Well that reset to the RF hub was easy with those excellent directions, it took the first time.
It seems like I'm one of the lucky ones that got the correct RF pin when I bought my truck.

Now what else do I need to do beside ground #11 for a functioning remote start?

 

[Rickey Small]

So is the four digit pin that’s needed to reset the RF hub the same pin for the key fobs? What do I ask for from the dealer?

 

[likes2build]

Ask for a Key Code inquiry result print out. It has the vin, the 4 digit pin for the RF hub and the ignition key code.

 

[Rickey Small]

Thank you!

 

[WTM75]

Well that reset to the RF hub was easy with those excellent directions, it took the first time.
It seems like I'm one of the lucky ones that got the correct RF pin when I bought my truck.

Now what else do I need to do beside ground #11 for a functioning remote start?

I don’t think pin 11 goes to ground. I believe pin 11 from the BCM goes to the hood latch, the second wire from the hood latch goes to ground.

This thread has a lot of good info on the install for 2017:
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-add-remote-start-to-2017-ram.99849/

 

[kad]

I don’t think pin 11 goes to ground. I believe pin 11 from the BCM goes to the hood latch, the second wire from the hood latch goes to ground.

This thread has a lot of good info on the install for 2017:
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-add-remote-start-to-2017-ram.99849/

Running pin 11 to ground is supposed to bypasses the need for the hood latch, or so several members have reported. I havn't tried it myself.

-K

 

[Gibbs]

It makes sense to me that when the hood latch is closed, it completes the circuit to ground, as long as it's a normally open switch.

 

[fraleywp]

I did not have to deal with the hood latch wiring because it was already there and working. I simply had to replace the latch and attach the existing harness to it. You can verify the sensor in alfaodb under the diagnostic area where you can view the current status.

I had to enable the hood ajar in two places. One under VTA hood ajar monitoring and on under another hood ajar monitoring (forget the exact name). I also enabled remote start present to yes, and set the correct sensor ohms.

After programming the new key fob(push to start key fobs do not have all the buttons like the regular key fobs) it still didn't work. I then tried to run the "remote start temporary disable" procedure as noted in the installation instructions found in the Mopar kit(found the pdf online). It didn't seem to do anything at all. It still didn't work.

I took a break and went back to work. A few hours later I tried from the remote again and it has been working ever since. So, not sure what actually made it work.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk

 

[Big Terry]

I took a break and went back to work. A few hours later I tried from the remote again and it has been working ever since. So, not sure what actually made it work.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk

Its been said by several people that it takes several hours for all of the settings to populate properly between bcm and rf hub. This just adds more validation to that fact.

 

[likes2build]

I did not have to deal with the hood latch wiring because it was already there and working. I simply had to replace the latch and attach the existing harness to it. You can verify the sensor in alfaodb under the diagnostic area where you can view the current status.

I had to enable the hood ajar in two places. One under VTA hood ajar monitoring and on under another hood ajar monitoring (forget the exact name). I also enabled remote start present to yes, and set the correct sensor ohms.

After programming the new key fob(push to start key fobs do not have all the buttons like the regular key fobs) it still didn't work. I then tried to run the "remote start temporary disable" procedure as noted in the installation instructions found in the Mopar kit(found the pdf online). It didn't seem to do anything at all. It still didn't work.

I took a break and went back to work. A few hours later I tried from the remote again and it has been working ever since. So, not sure what actually made it work.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk

I don't have the hood latch yet but did find the the existing harness in place in the latch area. I enabled everything listed with Alfa and rebooted the RF hub and left it over night. The next day I jumped the 2 pins on the hood latch connector to simulate a closed circuit and the only thing that happened was that the horn beeped. The Mopar instructions say that even if the factory harness is present, not to use it(I guess it really might not be fully connected).
I'm just going to order the correct latch and a pigtail kit and run a harness (1 wire to ground, 1 wire to #11 in the BCM connector) which will be way easier that chasing the factory harness to see if and where it's not fully connected.
I'm not in a hurry so I'll just do it when the Holidays are over. I'm more excited about a project Mpgrimm2 is working on for me and don't want to disable to much wiring at once just in case I goof something up. (Yup, I do that sometimes, lol)

 

[fearroyo]

I don't have an ECU 5 section in mine either. I would do a search in your BCM dump for the specific items and see if they are in another section.

-K

I don't have an ECU 5 section in mine either. I would do a search in your BCM dump for the specific items and see if they are in another section.

-K

Thx. Doesn't look like I needed it. I used the items I found here and within the seat thread, everything is working. Heated and Vented seats as well as the heated steering wheel option is there. Just need to install the clock spring and that project is done!

 

[Mpgrimm2]

Running pin 11 to ground is supposed to bypasses the need for the hood latch, or so several members have reported. I havn't tried it myself.

-K

It makes sense to me that when the hood latch is closed, it completes the circuit to ground, as long as it's a normally open switch.

FYI, I'm under the impression from the remote start thread and settings in the BCM that have been posted that the hood latch has actual internal resistance when it closes to ground.
So if grounding pin 11, you will need to use the appropriate sized 'load' resistor in line to ground to avoid a direct short and possibly damaging the BCM input. (I'm not sure the exact size, but I believe it's been mentioned in the remote start thread)

M² Mods.

 

[likes2build]

I like the good sense Mpgrimm2 makes. I like my RAM more and more with every mod I make. I'm not going to take a chance and fry anything when it's just $65 for a latch and a wiring repair kit to make sure there will be no mistakes by trying to take the cheap/easy way out. The #11 was populated with the same color purple wire that was at the OEM latch connector but I removed it and taped it back and will just run my own direct dedicated harness like in the remote kit and then I'll know exactly what's what.
I read something about an unfortunate owner here on the Forum ended with over $11k in electronic / wiring repair ($8k for wiring) and some upgrades after doing some kind of mod and then the dealer dropped a nut or something in the motor damaging that.

I don't know the end of that nightmare :-(

 

[fraleywp]

I like the good sense Mpgrimm2 makes. I like my RAM more and more with every mod I make. I'm not going to take a chance and fry anything when it's just $65 for a latch and a wiring repair kit to make sure there will be no mistakes by trying to take the cheap/easy way out. The #11 was populated with the same color purple wire that was at the OEM latch connector but I removed it and taped it back and will just run my own direct dedicated harness like in the remote kit and then I'll know exactly what's what.
I read something about an unfortunate owner here on the Forum ended with over $11k in electronic / wiring repair and some upgrades after doing some kind of mod and then the dealer dropped a nut or something in the motor damaging that.

I don't know the end of that nightmare :-(

I agree with you. But, if you have the OEM harness, why not test it? It worked perfectly in my case and I only had the cost of the latch at 30 something bucks. I also found an OEM Key-N-Go 4 button remote that was reset to use for $35. It was very simple to program it all using alfaodb.

As I mentioned before, you can run a test in alfaodb that provides a status check of all the systems in the truck. I ran it with the hood closed and with the hood popped from the release and it showed correctly when it was ajar. Running another harness just creates another point of failure in my eyes. It seems logical that if you have a Laramie with Key-N-Go, the wiring is already there. It also seems logical that the reason the Mopar kit shows incompatible for my truck is due to the remotes included in the kit being incorrect and the wiring being unnecessary. Who knows for sure.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk

 

[fraleywp]

I don't have the hood latch yet but did find the the existing harness in place in the latch area. I enabled everything listed with Alfa and rebooted the RF hub and left it over night. The next day I jumped the 2 pins on the hood latch connector to simulate a closed circuit and the only thing that happened was that the horn beeped. The Mopar instructions say that even if the factory harness is present, not to use it(I guess it really might not be fully connected).
I'm just going to order the correct latch and a pigtail kit and run a harness (1 wire to ground, 1 wire to #11 in the BCM connector) which will be way easier that chasing the factory harness to see if and where it's not fully connected.
I'm not in a hurry so I'll just do it when the Holidays are over. I'm more excited about a project Mpgrimm2 is working on for me and don't want to disable to much wiring at once just in case I goof something up. (Yup, I do that sometimes, lol)

My guess as to why the instructions say not to use it is because they do not want to try and accommodate every possible configuration in their instructions. If they force you to use a new cable it will be a known configuration for them. As someone who has to write customer advisories for a software company, I can promise you this happens a lot with documentation. It doesn't mean it will not work. They just don't want to field the support calls if it doesn't. It is easy enough to verify the wiring as is IMO.