Alpine system upgraded with JBL and pioneer

[blackbetty14]

How about some packing foam (not sure of the actual name)... but I may try that in the narrowing part of the OE enclosure, once I get this amp/low sub power issue resolved. Atleast with that you can remove it if needed. I may also try some polyfill as others on here (and other forums) have done.

Anything to take up the space would work, you just want it removable incase it hass negative affects you dont want. polyfill works well... if your talking about the expanding foam in the grey plastic used in shipping that would work well also I would just be worried about the plastic "flapping" or how much it expands as you can't control how big those pouches are. I doubt you would hear the plastic as its in an enclosed structure.

 

[GSchwizzy]

Anything to take up the space would work, you just want it removable incase it hass negative affects you dont want. polyfill works well... if your talking about the expanding foam in the grey plastic used in shipping that would work well also I would just be worried about the plastic "flapping" or how much it expands as you can't control how big those pouches are. I doubt you would hear the plastic as its in an enclosed structure.

Yes, that would work too. I was thinking the rigid foam that comes in blocks, but I also work at a company that uses Insta-pak foam, so I could ask them to make me a 'bag' or two and run out and stick it inside the enclosure before it fully expands and hardens to take up the space.

Side note, thanks to TX (I believe) I successfully updated my software to 17.43.01 last night and while it didn't do too much for the bass issue I am having... the system is WAY faster in terms of response time when pushing buttons on the screen. Holy cow! I was un-impressed by the lag the thing had, but the SW update dramatically improved it. Thanks for the tip. It was pretty easy to do... not sure if other folks have tried it or not.

P.S. I disconnected the parallel configuration, as it didn't seem to do too much anymore. Very strange, I noticed a rather significant difference immediately, then when I started the truck later that day (2 days ago), it was like the system went back to the way it was... without any decent bass. Something's up... I'll leave it to the dealer to figure out next week. More to come on this issue.

 

[JinxCanada]

has anyone bothered to upgrade the front door speakers? I know they are only mid bass...but if I go through all the trouble of upgrading the rest of the speakers I feel it would b eworth doing these too...so suggestions?

 

[blackbetty14]

I didn’t. Reason the others are worth upgrading is that the they are all single cone speakers with no separation of lows/miss/highs so the front and rear benefit from the separation. The front doors only do mid/lows and the alpine are propolyene cones so they aren’t cheap paper, plus u need to worry about depth to the window track up front so depth of Speaker becomes and issue. I personally don’t see it as being a huge upgrade to warrant the cost, spacers etc for that location. I would say do it if you were going to run an external amp and push full range through it.

 

[TomT]

has anyone bothered to upgrade the front door speakers? I know they are only mid bass...but if I go through all the trouble of upgrading the rest of the speakers I feel it would b eworth doing these too...so suggestions?

Do you feel the midbass is lacking? If not then I don’t see a reason to if you’re still running the factory amp. If you feel that you want more midbass, I don’t think changing only the speaker without changing the amp will gain you that much.

 

[JinxCanada]

ok so just the back doors swap out to 3 ways such as the JBL Club 6x9 and the JBL Club 3.5" x 3 in the dash should yield a much better sound....leave the front doors alone.

You're saying the back doors don't have tweeters? mid drivers? Does anyone have a picture of the stock 6x9 that's in the back doors? I've never seen a single driver (missing mid/tweet) in a car that was getting full range. That seems very odd to me.

I'd love to see a stock Alpine speaker before I pull off the doors. I'm hesitant to tear into my new truck...but it's looking like I'm going to have to as it's driving me nutz.

 

[TomT]

As of 2015 the stock Alpine speakers were nothing much to look at.

 

[blackbetty14]

My 2018 are the same. Single propolyene cone. No tweeters, same blue cone, and a cloth surround. Still they are a step up from the paper cone OE base systems and they also run at a lower 2ohm impedance. You can’t see the cone part of the speaker as the glue a cloth cover around the top, cut the cloth and you will singe it’s just a large single cone aka 2 way style speaker.

 

[FXCLM5]

The stock alpines in the front work better then the aftermarket pioneer shallow mount 6x9 i put in. For me and my setup that is (stock alpine 10 speaker), lotsa other people stated the opposite - and that was why i purchased the pioneers TS-A6966R

 

[blackbetty14]

The stock alpines in the front work better then the aftermarket pioneer shallow mount 6x9 i put in. For me and my setup that is (stock alpine 10 speaker), lotsa other people stated the opposite - and that was why i purchased the pioneers TS-A6966R

That’s because they are 4 ohm, uve basicallt cut the power to them by 1/2. Stock alpine are 2ohm, any of the JBL or infinity replacements are in the 2/2.3/3 ohm range. The stock speaker will sound louder and hit harder due to less resistance.

 

[Dodge This]

has anyone bothered to upgrade the front door speakers? I know they are only mid bass...but if I go through all the trouble of upgrading the rest of the speakers I feel it would b eworth doing these too...so suggestions?

Since they're tuned for mostly midbass, I left mine stock and they sound just fine. I've got the 3 dash and the 2 rear speakers replaced with Infinity and the system sounds great. I am actually looking for a bit more bottom end, so I've been trying to find a small amp that will push the 8" Pioneer that I put in place of the stock sub.

 

[GSchwizzy]

Well, I 'should have' pre-cursored that update with saying that we measured 4 ohms at each one of the harnesses (not sure why or how that could be)... which lead to wiring it the way I did, to get a 2 ohm load. I understood the risk I was taking doing what I did, but with what we measured first off... it didn't seem like an issue.

Unfortunately, there's something else going on... because the overall 'sound' of the system went back to 'normal' (i.e. basically no bass) on the way home yesterday.

I'm going to set everything back to stock configuration and let the dealer figure it out, as my truck is still under factory warranty. Plus, I noticed I have outdated system software... comparing it to a friends 2015, so they can start by updating that. Speaking of which, anyone know what the latest SW version is currently? I have 17.11.07. I'm going to have them investigate the P/N of the amp, and see if there are any known issues with that specific P/N.

More to come.

Well, I pick up the truck today... and unfortunately, everything will likely sound the same. They didn't change anything.

The only thing they discovered by comparing the VIN numbers between my 2016 and a friends 2015, was the part number of the HU. He has one made by Harmon, and the Chrysler notes on their system say mine is made by Uconnect. Great. Sounds like I have the Walmart version of the HU...

The only other thing we'll try is swapping our amps, as his amp P/N is different than mine is. Perhaps those were/are made by different manufacturers, and have different circuity (i.e. higher quality components) and/or different specs in terms of the sub channel power. Again, his is significantly louder than mine is... and it seems like the same exact system. We'll also throw my Pioneer 8" sub in his enclosure to see if his system drives it harder, if his amp in my truck doesn't make a difference. If that's the case, then it IS the head unit... and it looks like I'm screwed, as they are quite pricey.

Gregg

 

[blackbetty14]

Well, I pick up the truck today... and unfortunately, everything will likely sound the same. They didn't change anything.

The only thing they discovered by comparing the VIN numbers between my 2016 and a friends 2015, was the part number of the HU. He has one made by Harmon, and the Chrysler notes on their system say mine is made by Uconnect. Great. Sounds like I have the Walmart version of the HU...

The only other thing we'll try is swapping our amps, as his amp P/N is different than mine is. Perhaps those were/are made by different manufacturers, and have different circuity (i.e. higher quality components) and/or different specs in terms of the sub channel power. Again, his is significantly louder than mine is... and it seems like the same exact system. We'll also throw my Pioneer 8" sub in his enclosure to see if his system drives it harder, if his amp in my truck doesn't make a difference. If that's the case, then it IS the head unit... and it looks like I'm screwed, as they are quite pricey.

Gregg

Doubt its the headunit... the apline systems use the headunit as just a tuner, all the power comes from the amp, so the headunit just provides the signal.

 

[GSchwizzy]

Doubt its the headunit... the apline systems use the headunit as just a tuner, all the power comes from the amp, so the headunit just provides the signal.

It's gotta be the amp then. Hoping to meet up with him again soon... the curiosity is killing me. He lives about an hour away, so not the easiest to get together anymore... unfortunately. I wish I could find out more in terms of specs before I buy one. Found one that he has on Ebay for $125.00... not terribly pricey. Would be worth it for the added bass, if it was indeed my amp. Dealer found 'nothing wrong' with the amp. Of course.

 

[blackbetty14]

It's gotta be the amp then. Hoping to meet up with him again soon... the curiosity is killing me. He lives about an hour away, so not the easiest to get together anymore... unfortunately. I wish I could find out more in terms of specs before I buy one. Found one that he has on Ebay for $125.00... not terribly pricey. Would be worth it for the added bass, if it was indeed my amp. Dealer found 'nothing wrong' with the amp. Of course.

I'm not saying it couldnt be the head unit... it would provide signal... if theres "no" or a "weak" signal then the amp won't push the power ya know? It would be hard to test the amp (you might be able to with a meter) but you should be able to "see" or "feel" the sub moving with it cranked up. I would google how to test the power going to the sub after visually verifying the sub isn't moving. Crank the power to 20ish and increaset the SUB/low end on the equalizer and go look at the sub move, it not easily seen put your hand on it and verify the vibration. If not then test the leads going to the Sub. Check for continuity of the sub wires back to the amp plug, verify the amp has 12v batt and switched 12v and a good ground. Not sure if you can test the power going to the sub tho.

 

[SyN]

Question: Revive this thread a little!

I have the Imitation Alpine System: As of right now both corner dash speakers have been replaced with JBL Club 3020s.
Next is replacing the rear doors with the JBL Club 9630 (6x9).

As of right now I don't have any future plans of replacing the front doors or the roof speakers.

My Question is with the Dash PIA center speaker.

1. Would it be better just to remove it from the total sound stage?
2. Would it help with the total sound stage to replace it with another JBL Club 3020?

I will deal with replacing the horrible muddy sub another day.
I will keep the stock enclosure, I will just replace with the Rockford Fosgate or Pioneer.

Any constructive input would be appreciated.

 

[autokraftgt]

I'm not a huge fan of a center speaker when it comes to music & sound quality. Now, for media, talk radio, movies, hands-free, it can help but it's not vital.
With a basic system generally speaking, I feel that the center speaker becomes very localized, and the left and right speakers kinda get drowned out which makes for a very centered and narrow sound stage. When the center speaker is eliminated, the right and left speakers carry the load and make the stage width much wider & deeper (which should be the goal).
This is my subjective opinion.
Now once you start incorporating digital sound processing, time alignment, different crossover points, slopes, level adjustments, eq work etc...a center speaker can HELP create a very strong center image while maintaining great width/depth...but a powerful processor will be needed, and you'll need total control over the center speaker so it does not narrow the sound stage. Most competitors/enthusiasts do not run a center speaker because a strong center image can be created without a center speaker/channel.
I'd do a listening comparison using music you're very familiar with and see for yourself which way sounds better. I have a feeling disconnecting the center speaker will be more pleasing to your ears than with it connected...I could be wrong, but I'm confident you'll prefer no center speaker. Good luck and enjoy!

 

[SyN]

Thank you for your thoughts/opinion/advice.

Edit: After pondering this notion to just remove the center speaker from the total sound stage-->I think this is what I am going to do! This just leaves the 2 JBL Club 3020s to handle the dash. Which I honestly feel is plenty.

I will order the JBL Club 9630s (6x9) on Monday: Just a note Amazon Prime is SO much cheaper then Crutchfield. I already have the Metra 72-6514 harness ordered.

These will be installed on Thursday and I will report back.
Mind You-->I am only looking to remove as much of the Dull/Muddy sound as I can without spending a A$$ load of $$.

Like I posted before the (Alpine)? paper sub will be replaced in the near future maybe in the spring with either the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 or the popular Pioneer replacement.

Just so those who are curious: I only really listen to Sirius/XM radio mainly--->Sports Talk / Hair Nation / Classic Rewind - During the holidays I love me some XM/Christmas Music (Love the Holidays)!

Now: If someone who has a good replacement speaker idea for the front door 6x9 speaker? I will listen!
I would replace it with another 6x9.
Yes I know I would probably have to use a 1/4 adapter (which is not an issue).

 

[blackbetty14]

Don't remove the speaker, just turn off the surround sound, it disables the center speaker and the roof speakers I believe. You can see it in the audio settings when you turn it on and off it shows what speakers are active.

Stock front door speakers are adequate for the low/mid range they provide, since they don't get the highs etc anything other than a single cone is not being utilized. Save your money and the shallow depth doesn't make it any easier, spacers fix the depth issue but push the speaker out farther and make the door panel/speaker cover area possibly vibrate more.

I ordered the 6x9s from amazon as well and got the metra adapters, the issue is your stuck with the front JBLs from crutch field bc no one sells the metro adapters for the alpine system... I asked crutch field and they said its specifically made for them and I tried looking.

 

[Spindrifter]

I did my Alpine system upgrade on my 2018 this weekend. I replaced the stock sub with a JL Audio 8W1v3 ($139 on Amazon) in the stock enclosure and it just fits. I powered it with a Kicker 43CXA3001 600 Watt MONO Class D Power ($97.68 on Amazon). Super tight bass and a huge improvement over stock for not much money. Mounted the amp under the rear seat behind the sub enclosure. The amp auto turns on when it reads signal from the head unit. You just can't beat JL Audio subs in my opinion.

I replaced the 3 dash speakers with Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" 75W ($48.86 on Amazon). Way cleaner, crisper highs and clean install with the right knuckle socket adapter.

I left the front and rear door speakers for now as I'm really happy how the system is sounding now! It really thumps and everything is very clean and tight. Plenty of mids and upper lows, crisp high end, and the is sub tight and can really hit if you want it to.