Aluminum Transmission bolts

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BlownGP

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Those bolts are supposed to be one-and-done, meaning not to be re-used. New bolts on each install. Just passing that along. Do what you want with the info.

FWIW - RockAuto sells a pack of replacement bolts that are not the junky Chinesium, for around $15. I've used 3 sets of them without any issues, utilizing proper torque spec. I've read that some of the aftermarket bolts snap off really easy. Again, just info.

REIN - HWK0068 $13.40 @ RockAuto

Yup, I bought some Reins off ebay.

I'll when I swapped pans a few years I don't remember if I used my stock ones or new ones. So I bought some new ones to make sure.

Thanks guys for all the help.
 
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BlownGP

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When you're torquing a bolt that calls for 10ft-lbs or less,toss the torque wrench away,and do them by hand.Very few torque wrenches are accurate, even the 1/4" versions when torquing low torque bolts

So you are just thinking snug and huga. lol
No need for a tq wrench?
 
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So, I'm at a loss here.

Installed the new aluminum pan and now its leaking. Pretty much in the same spot as the plastic pan, except the plastic pan was leaking at the drain plug.
New bolts, new gasket. I snuged the bolts pretty good. I'm really afraid to go any tighter and break them.

Almost looks like it leaking around the bolts, but I think it's just entire back side. Not sure what else to do.
It's not a lot coming out, more of a seepage.
If we had a proper dipstick, wouldn't bother me too much but this is annoying.


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Wild one

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So, I'm at a loss here.

Installed the new aluminum pan and now its leaking. Pretty much in the same spot as the plastic pan, except the plastic pan was leaking at the drain plug.
New bolts, new gasket. I snuged the bolts pretty good. I'm really afraid to go any tighter and break them.

Almost looks like it leaking around the bolts, but I think it's just entire back side. Not sure what else to do.
It's not a lot coming out, more of a seepage.
If we had a proper dipstick, wouldn't bother me too much but this is annoying.


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Pull it back off and see how proud of the flange the O-ring protrudes, up till you posted a link to that pan,i'd never heard of them.But i'd be checking to make sure the reciever groove isn't cut to deep for the O-ring
 

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I had a little bit of seepage when I replaced with PPE pan. I went back and backed the bolts off a bit from where there was leaking and retightened with a lighter touch in those areas. I'm convinced they were slightly over torqued and that caused the leakage. No problem since then.
 
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Pull it back off and see how proud of the flange the O-ring protrudes, up till you posted a link to that pan,i'd never heard of them.But i'd be checking to make sure the reciever groove isn't cut to deep for the O-ring

I hate to have to pull of again.... You talking about the O-ring tube part that goes up into the valve body?

The flashshark pan looks like a legit copy off the PPE, even the direction they give you. lol.. Damn China.
 
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I had a little bit of seepage when I replaced with PPE pan. I went back and backed the bolts off a bit from where there was leaking and retightened with a lighter touch in those areas. I'm convinced they were slightly over torqued and that caused the leakage. No problem since then.

Umm, interesting... You think backing off all 4 of those back bolts won't mess with the TQ sequence you have to when you first install it?

I might try that tommorow..

Thanks for the help guys
 

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Umm, interesting... You think backing off all 4 of those back bolts won't mess with the TQ sequence you have to when you first install it?

I might try that tommorow..

Thanks for the help guys

It might. It did in my case. I hung out underneath once the transmission was hot and running for a while. Can of brake cleaner spraying and adjusting till the seeping stopped.
 

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I hate to have to pull of again.... You talking about the O-ring tube part that goes up into the valve body?

The flashshark pan looks like a legit copy off the PPE, even the direction they give you. lol.. Damn China.
No the actual O-ring gasket that's on the pan. You could try Stenerson's tip,about slacking the bolts off slightly then re-tightening them closest to the leak first. It's worth a try before you pull the pan again.
If you do end up pulling the pan,along with checking the gasket,use a straight edge to check and make sure the pan isn't warped/twisted
 
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So, just a update in case anyone cares.

Had a friend come over a few weeks ago to tackle dropping the pan again and fixing the leak. Just helps to have an extra set of hands.
I show him the wetness of the pan I've told him about. Well he wipes it clean to see if we can see where the leak is coming from.
Looks at the towel and everything he wiped off is black. He asked um the new fluid was red right? Ofcourse.
But there was no red on the towel.

So we think the black paint is sweating from the heat since the exhaust is running underneath that section
The pan looks dry now after several weeks now. Guess it's just cheap Chinese paint. lol
 

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I had this problem but towards the back. I ended up ordering a new gasket by felpro. Problem solved. Just remember, these stupid things require very little torque. My bolts and 10yr old and they look fantastic! I didnt **** around with those little O filler inserts.
 
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I had this problem but towards the back. I ended up ordering a new gasket by felpro. Problem solved. Just remember, these stupid things require very little torque. My bolts and 10yr old and they look fantastic! I didnt **** around with those little O filler inserts.

Funny you mention the metal rings that are in the plastic pan.

I didn't even notice you have to swap those until I watched a install video after I installed the Aluminum pan.
So mine doesn't have them either. Come to find out some swap them over and some don't.
 
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