Am I crazy for considering this?

[nlambert182]

NO WAY I would trade my 5.7 for a diesel. PLUS you have upgraded it to what you wanted. If you need a little more hauling capacity get air bags to help out. If you need more power supercharge it. I only boosted it 7 psi so it will NOT hurt the engine. But I did gain 125hp. (dynoed to the rear wheels) I have done this to both of my two trucks and there is NO WAY I would ever consider just trading them off. Because I would be trading down instead of up and I would then have to spend more money making said RAM my own as well as to my liking. Hope this helps you.

Airbags don't add anything for towing capacity. Not a single pound. The weight still rides on the same axle so the tow capacity does not increase. It only gives the appearance of an increase because it will level the bed. While supercharging and maintaining low boost may not immediately kill the engine I guarantee it reduces the life expectancy unless it was built for boost. Not to mention, you'll get considerably worse fuel economy going that route since the engine will need to live in boost.

If I planned to tow a lot, I'd choose my diesel over any supercharged gasser you put in front of me. As far as towing goes, it is superior in every way. If I didn't NEED a diesel, I'd pick a bigger gas truck that has the tow capacity I wanted and move on.

 

[nlambert182]

As long as it was well taken care of...

Get it checked out and make sure. I got an F150 a few years ago with 60K miles, engine needed replacement at 65K. I'm a bit sour towards used. If I get a used vehicle again, I will have it checked out by an independent shop. Would've saved me about $7500 (new engine price).



I was thinking of getting diesel when I got mine. Diesel is better for people that are going to put a lot of miles on. I have a short commute, so not a good idea for me. Also have to look at where you're going to get fuel. For me, any place with decent prices would be out of my way. Though if there is a good place on your commute, you can get a gas card and might be able to save some money.

Fair enough... It's a gamble, but buying new doesn't get you out of harm's way and even though they come with a warranty it doesn't mean that warranty will always save you. Learn the vehicle you're looking for, learn all the quirks, and either inspect it or have a shop inspect it prior to purchase. Choose one owner vehicles with all service records. That's a good way to hedge your bets.

I bought a new Toyota Venza in 2014. By 10k miles it had over $13k worth of failures and repairs at the dealer. By 33k miles, Toyota threw their hands up and said they couldn't fix it. We ended up having to trade it off and take the hit. We had a 2019 Expedition that had one of the 1st 10 speed trans failures. Cost me over $19k to walk away from it. By the time the shop finished the test drives, it was 2k miles out of warranty. Despite the service ticket being opened while it was in warranty, Ford told us to kick rocks.

On the flip side... I bought a used Ford Ranger with 100k miles and put almost 300k miles on it before I sold it. Put a clutch in it once. I bought my 2016 3500 with 100k towing miles on it. I put another 100k on it and the only wrench I turned was to delete the DPF. I regret the day I sold it. Same with the 2012 2500 I bought with 53k on it. I put over 100k on that truck with not the first hiccup. Only wrench turned was to get rid of the DPF. My current 2018... Bought it with just under 120k. Aside from a heater core issue, it's been a great truck.

 

[runamuck]

look it over real good. 60-65,000 is usually when I trade because by then so many things like tires, batteries, seats, fanbelts are showing their wear and gonna cost money. I usually never buy used but I bought the '22 I have now with 20,000 but it literally seemed new in every way and I got a rate near the same as new car rates.

 

[tron67j]

Buying used isn't a bad thing, but it must be done correctly. With miles under the belt some of the gremlins might have already appeared and been resolved. It is critical to really test drive it well with multiple starts and stops, highway driving for a number of miles, keep stopping places and turn it off and back on a few times. Turn all the knobs, push all the buttons, put it in 4wd and test it out extensively. Move the seats a lot, plug into all the charging ports and do all the entertainment stuff. Then get a mechanic to do a thorough check. Check everything like drop some oil and look for metal. Check compression on cylinders. Run hot and cold and make sure pressure in system is correct. Yes, this costs money but it can make you more sure about it. And if really worried, buy an aftermarket warranty.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Just to throw this in the mix: Depreciation only matters if you sell or the vehicle is totaled out. You're not paying depreciation out of pocket as an expense. If you plan to keep the truck 10-15 years, the depreciation of a new truck vs a 3 year old truck over that time period is negligible in the total cost of ownership.

Stop flipping every 2-5 years and it suddenly no longer matters

 

[nlambert182]

Just to throw this in the mix: Depreciation only matters if you sell or the vehicle is totaled out. You're not paying depreciation out of pocket as an expense. If you plan to keep the truck 10-15 years, the depreciation of a new truck vs a 3 year old truck over that time period is negligible in the total cost of ownership.

Stop flipping every 2-5 years and it suddenly no longer matters

That's a true statement, but the majority of people don't keep a vehicle from cradle to grave. Whether their needs change that justifies getting a different truck or they just want to, it happens a lot.

Most can't pay cash either, so even if you buy new and finance you'll end up paying back a lot more in finance charges simply because the new truck costs more vs buying a 2-3 year old low mileage used truck where the depreciation hit was taken elsewhere.

It does make sense for some folks to buy new, but always good to look at all the options.

 

[Docwagon1776]

That's a true statement, but the majority of people don't keep a vehicle from cradle to grave. ..

Most can't pay cash either...

These two things are related.

 

[nlambert182]

To a degree, but considering the cost of most things nowadays even if they intend to keep a vehicle, a person in their 20s-30s is likely not going to be able to afford basic monthly expenses, likely a student loan, raise/pay for kids, on top of stashing enough money away to pay $40k+ cash for any vehicle. So they'll finance and either buy used or eat the depreciation on the vehicle. Being able to pay cash really doesn't happen in a lot of cases until people have passed that stage of their life.

A lot of folks will have a larger SUV or truck while their kids are in the house. Then, once out, they want something smaller. There may be nothing wrong with what they currently own. Or... maybe they take up a family hobby like camping and then decide once the kids are out to travel as a couple instead of go camping. No longer need the truck. ETC.....

For us, our youngest graduates high school in 4 years and that's about the time our house is paid off. Once he's out of college (we're paying for the eldest's college as we speak) and that's paid for, we will free up even more cash. We'll be in our early 50's by then. I think that's fairly normal for the average family.

 

[TorqueWagon]

Hi All.
Reaching out to the forum for a sanity check.
I own a 2018 1500 Express with bunch of upgrades over the years with 62k miles and love my truck. We have recently bought a 28ft camper that weighs in at 6800 pounds loaded. The truck can handle the rig and I am within limits of my 1500, but I started looking at the 2500 market because I like to be way above limits. The new car market is way out of my league right now so I have been looking for used.
I found this 2016 2500 Laramie longhorn diesel with 125k miles one owner clean title. The dealership wants 37k for the truck. I know I can negotiate close to 20k in trade for my truck.

Am I crazy to consider this deal since I am trading a 2018 for a 2016 and walking out with a payment on it?

2500 Cummins owners and anyone else, your input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

Short ? answer - only you can decide based on your values. Vehicle ownership is a negative depreciating asset and paying interest on a loan it's obviously disposing of your income. You're also theoretically giving up 63,000 miles of life before you have to replace the vehicle next time. You have to balance all that off with the safety and security about having a heavier diesel tow rig that can provide more performance in a critical emergency. I have a trailer just about the same as you describe and I love having the weight and power of my 2500 being above and beyond as you mentioned. There's definite tangible value plus an intangible feeling of security in that. Lastly, look at it from a pure financial standpoint- if your debt to income ratio is relatively low then it might be justifiable. I like to see people keep their death income ratio below 40% and your cash flow/budget comfortable not maxed out. Then your financially healthy and you don't create a lot of worry in your life. Also do you have a 6-month emergency fund of cash available?

 

[suicideking]

Fair enough... It's a gamble, but buying new doesn't get you out of harm's way and even though they come with a warranty it doesn't mean that warranty will always save you. Learn the vehicle you're looking for, learn all the quirks, and either inspect it or have a shop inspect it prior to purchase. Choose one owner vehicles with all service records. That's a good way to hedge your bets.

I bought a new Toyota Venza in 2014. By 10k miles it had over $13k worth of failures and repairs at the dealer. By 33k miles, Toyota threw their hands up and said they couldn't fix it. We ended up having to trade it off and take the hit. We had a 2019 Expedition that had one of the 1st 10 speed trans failures. Cost me over $19k to walk away from it. By the time the shop finished the test drives, it was 2k miles out of warranty. Despite the service ticket being opened while it was in warranty, Ford told us to kick rocks.

On the flip side... I bought a used Ford Ranger with 100k miles and put almost 300k miles on it before I sold it. Put a clutch in it once. I bought my 2016 3500 with 100k towing miles on it. I put another 100k on it and the only wrench I turned was to delete the DPF. I regret the day I sold it. Same with the 2012 2500 I bought with 53k on it. I put over 100k on that truck with not the first hiccup. Only wrench turned was to get rid of the DPF. My current 2018... Bought it with just under 120k. Aside from a heater core issue, it's been a great truck.

My wife's auto is a 2019 Expedition. So far, it needed the cam phasers replaced. Luckily that was at around 55K miles, so was still under warranty. She's getting close to 60K now, so hopefully nothing major.

My 2011 F150 that needed a new engine: Tech said the PO probably just didn't change the oil enough. I've done research after the fact, and that seems to be a common engine killer. Another is people that buy trucks and tow a load that's too heavy and damage the engine.

Sad part is when I bought the F150, I wanted to take it for an oil change the first week. Wife talked me out of it because they changed the oil before I bought it. Dealer gave me a 30 day warranty. That period had passed by the time the oil pressure light went on 5K miles later. Live and learn.

 

[Docwagon1776]

To a degree, but considering the cost of most things nowadays even if they intend to keep a vehicle, a person in their 20s-30s is likely not going to be able to afford basic monthly expenses, likely a student loan, raise/pay for kids, on top of stashing enough money away to pay $40k+ cash for any vehicle. So they'll finance and either buy used or eat the depreciation on the vehicle. Being able to pay cash really doesn't happen in a lot of cases until people have passed that stage of their life.

In a thread about considering buying a diesel 2500 for their travel trailer, hopefully the "just starting out finances" aren't in play.

Similarly, someone who can't pay $40k cash for a vehicle who keeps financing vehicles, new or used, at today's rates is sticking themselves. I didn't buy a brand new vehicle until I was 34, and I certainly dug a hole for myself before I got off the treadmill of flipping used cars every 2-3 years. 19 years old with a Corvette. I was ******** as hell, but I had fun digging the hole until I started realizing daylight was having trouble peaking in. Lesson learned and all that. One of the smartest things I ever did was sell my (paid for) F-250 and (paid for) motorcycles, buy an old beater for a few years while I socked money away, and then did the buy once/cry once. I did finance for 24-ish months, but interest rates were nothing at that point in time. No way I'm financing at today's rates.

 

[Jas34]

Been trying to find where I can ask this question. I am brand new to this platform, just found it yesterday when I was researching what a 3.21 rear axle ratio is. I have been looking at used Ram Trucks online for about a year to see what inventory is turning over and reading hundreds of reviews about the 1500. I want to be able to pull about a 25'ft. travel trailer or less, dry weight is about 4000lbs. First question is, do I have to buy a V8 5.7L in order to do so or can I get by with a V6 even 4X4? Second question, are all 2018 thru 2023 V8 5.7L Hemi's? Seeing a lot of dealer ads about the V8 5.7L engine but no mention of a Hemi and many of those that do mention the Hemi...I am not seeing the HEMI emblem on the hoods. Yeah, I'm a female so much of it is greek to me. Would greatly appreciate any insight. Many thanks..

You'll get a lot more answers if you start a new thread of your own with your questions. Try putting it in the towing subforum.

To get you started, either the 3.6 or the 5.7 engine would tow your trailer, but the 5.7 would be a way better choice in my opinion. You can pretty much assume that if the ad doesn't state it has a 5.7, then it's probably a 3.6. Another thing to look for is a towing package with a class IV hitch and an integrated brake controller. You'll either find that info in the build sheet or window sticker, or from the pics online, if you know what you're looking for (look for the trailer brake controller on the dash near the 4wd controls). Don't get hung up on the axle ratio. A 3.21 will work fine for that.

 

[RemyDog2014]

Thank you Jas34...will save this info.

 

[Hudson]

Sorry all, i have been busy with work. Caught up on all the posts since last and again, thanks to all of you for your opinions. i think it deserves to be posted here, that we are going to seriously look at this truck below
https://www.palmerdodgegeorgia.com/used/Ram/2018-Ram-2500-cf9635a1ac180a1e219dc369bc42771c.htm
I am going to really take my time and make sure i look this truck over real good.

 

[diymirage]

Sorry all, i have been busy with work. Caught up on all the posts since last and again, thanks to all of you for your opinions. i think it deserves to be posted here, that we are going to seriously look at this truck below
https://www.palmerdodgegeorgia.com/used/Ram/2018-Ram-2500-cf9635a1ac180a1e219dc369bc42771c.htm
I am going to really take my time and make sure i look this truck over real good.

Are you sure thats an SLT ?

127K miles ?

I

 

[Hudson]

Bighorn harvester edition. Yup 127k. Two owners, the truck never left the same town in GA and was sold and religiously serviced at one dealership. From what I have learned that mileage is a nicely broken in diesel. My concern is the DPF system and its condition

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Are you sure thats an SLT ?

Thats a Bighorn, allot of mile on a 7yr truck drivers seal tells the tale!!!

 

[diymirage]

Bighorn harvester edition. Yup 127k. Two owners, the truck never left the same town in GA and was sold and religiously serviced at one dealership. From what I have learned that mileage is a nicely broken in diesel. My concern is the DPF system and its condition

127K miles in 7 years...how big is that town ?

 

[Hudson]

That’s 18k a year. In my mind this means that it wasn’t a grocery getter or a church truck. Maybe they were pulling a travel trailer.

 

[Hudson]

So to throw a monkey wrench into the diesel decision i found this
https://www.robertloehrchryslerdodg...ville-ga-b73ca8bbac181252502f828eb48205a9.htm

54K 6.4L really clean from the looks of it. Is 54K on a 6.4L safe to buy to own long term?