I am $12000 into this and my wife is gonna lost it.

[Annoyedramowner]

I have a 2013 1500 5.7 hemi. I just replaced its bad engine at 180,000 miles. It has received a new TIPM, BCM, and RF module. This is the 4th time the truck has decided to die and not start up again. The RF module came with new keys. The dealership is my last resort at $200+ an hour. The key turns the backlight of the dash on. But the door doesn’t ding while key is in and open. It doesn’t click to start. Nothing on the dash comes on.

 

[Ken226]

I have a 2013 1500 5.7 hemi. I just replaced its bad engine at 180,000 miles. It has received a new TIPM, BCM, and RF module. This is the 4th time the truck has decided to die and not start up again. The RF module came with new keys. The dealership is my last resort at $200+ an hour. The key turns the backlight of the dash on. But the door doesn’t ding while key is in and open. It doesn’t click to start. Nothing on the dash comes on.

How many miles are on it now?

Did you scan it for codes?

Having had that much work done, especially on the RF hub and BCM leaves alot of possibilities for damaged connectors and wiring problems. When I start looking around in a really high mileage truck that's had major work done by folks of unknown skill level, I commonly see spliced in wires, broken connectors, connector cam levers that have been replaced with zip ties, amongst many other concerns.

Is your scan tool able to communicate with the BCM and/or RF Hub? If so, what codes or communication errors are present?

 

[Annoyedramowner]

It is not able to it only reads the engine light codes the dealer replaced the TIPM also. It has 188,643 miles. It’s been having issues for at least 45,000 miles. I’d tow it to the dealership and it would start. So they wouldn’t be able to diagnose it.

 

[Ken226]

It is not able to it only reads the engine light codes the dealer replaced the TIPM also.

All due respect, but I have no idea what this means. A scan tool can, or cannot read the codes?

It has 188,643 miles. It’s been having issues for at least 45,000 miles. I’d tow it to the dealership and it would start. So they wouldn’t be able to diagnose it.

As you can see by the CAN topology map here:


The ALDL (obd2) that I circled in black, is connected to the CAN-C star connector, where everything else is connected as well.

So, if you can't scan at all, and there is no communication between the scan tool and the CANbus network, it sounds like the CANbus network is down. It could be down due to a wiring problem, or a module bringing down the network.





Or, if everything I just said sounds like a Japanese love story, then you should probably start looking for a shop with a good rep for fixing electronics issues.

 

[Annoyedramowner]

Thank you. I apologize for not being clearer. For some reason an electrical shop is hard to come by. I will look more into and hope to find one.

I only have a scan tool that reads engine light codes. When the truck worked a week ago it had nothing on it.

Basically I must take it to a shop to find the issue. My only concern is finding one that can actually diagnose it. The dealership definitely can’t. You’d think with the $2400 in diagnosis and TIPM replaced they’d have figured it out. The BCM was rebuilt by a reputable company January 2025. The TIPM was replaced right before that December 2024. The RF module was today.

 

[RamDiver]

How about providing a historical account with approximate dates and mileage from the time the engine was replaced?

Did the truck ever run successfully after the engine replacement?

What happened or did not that prompted the TIPM and BCM replacements?

.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Since the truck has had major surgery with the engine R&R and all this started after it, I think I would be looking at all the Ground connections under the hood for cleanliness and tightness. Possibly someone missed something during re-assy.

Check the canbus connections under the dash, too. I think they call it the star connector (kinda like an ethernet hub up over the brake pedal area).

I would also invest in a decent OBD2 dongle to read and reset codes. Many options out there from cheapo ones to an actual scan tool. I use an OBDLink MX+. Not a cheapo, but not super expensive either. Match it with AlfaOBD software and now you have powerful tool the is best on / for Mopar vehicles without a big price tag..

 

[Annoyedramowner]

Here is my list to the best of my knowledge.
Summer of 2024 the A/C started acting off as well as the headlights and windshield wipers would periodically not work. (later in winter also found out the heat doesn’t work) approx 152,000 miles

Late summer of 2024 the truck died and wouldn’t come back on. Did the basic checks of battery, fuses, and gas. Nothing wrong with it supposedly. Waited a while it started up. Approx 157,000 miles

September 2024 the headlights go completely out. At the time we thought it was moisture in them. So we replaced them and it didn’t fix it. (We had replaced light bulbs in between obviously didn’t fix it) by the end of September the truck dies again can’t find the cause so we have it towed to dealership. Dealership calls to let us know that it started right up come get it. Approx miles 161,000

October/November 2024 dealership spent 3 hours looking for reason why headlights and windshield wipers officially didn’t work. ($900 later) they said it’s probably the TIPM. We didn’t have money then so it waited until December.
Approx 167,000 miles

December 2024
We paid the dealership to replace the TIPM. the head lights worked for maybe 2 days then died. However the windshield wipers have worked since then. They then pointed us in the direction of a new BCM. Approx. 170,000 miles

January 2025
We had our BCM shipped to a shop up north to repair and reprogram. We received it and it didn’t do much of anything. We took the truck to a local shop where they decided to hardwire the headlights which has fixed them so far. Approx 174,000 miles

February 2025
Transmission goes out gets it rebuilt
Approx 176,000 miles

October 2025
Started it up one morning and heard the ticking in the top. Kept fluids at proper levels and drove it a couple days. Realized with the ticking and exhaust leak (it always has one we have fixed it at least 3 times it’s a hemi what do you expect) we missed the knocking on the bottom. The truck had completely lost power in the space of a week. It was parked from that point. Approx 186,000 miles

March 2026
Bought a Powertrain product remanned engine to replace the engine ( this isn’t my first time replacing an engine) made sure to replace most of the basic pulleys and all spark plugs. The coils were recently replaced in the last couple years. Replaced it started the truck at least 20 times. Had an exhaust leak. My wife didn’t tighten her side well enough when putting it back together. We fixed it and couldn’t make it start after that. After speaking with my local shop they said to try multiple keys. I only had one. It was then said to replace RF module. We did today. It still doesn’t start. The dash back light turns on but nothing else. No clicking when you turn the key. Tried starting it at the starter with a screw driver. It didn’t try to turn over but you could hear the starter engage to try. I don’t hear the fuel pump engage when you turn the key either. The fan doesn’t blow. We have checked all connections to make sure they are tight and together as well as all relays, fuses, and battery terminals.

 

[Burla]

Bypass win module also diagnoses if it is win module, super easy.

Dodge Ram WIN module cheap fix (won’t start)

Instead of replacing WIN module just bypass the start function of it by using a push button switch wired into the start relay

youtu.be

 

[Burla]

When win gets gummed up and truck wont start, it rarely if ever throws a code. The truck "thinks" you turned it off as that is what happens inside the win as whether you turn it off or gummed up ends connection, there wont be a code.

Use the correct relay cig lighter, make sure it doesn't stay hot with key off and fuel pump stays on.

 

[EdGs]

With so many weird things happening, it definately sounds like bad ground(s) or connector issues.

I don't like the fact that your headlights had to be hardwired, leads me to lean even more toward connector/wire/ground issues.

 

[TJP440]

Ran across this thought it might be of some help. No experience with them. Some tips though, Win TS tips ?
Good luck and keep us posted

 

[RamDiver]

Thanks for the details.

Your descriptions add a myriad of potential possibilities, but a much more defined direction than previously stated.

The first thing that stands out is that an intermittent starting problem appears to have begun in the summer of 2024.

With the age of the truck, faulty grounds, chaffed wiring and corroded connectors should be considered, especially after an engine replacement.
Add to that, displaced connector pins during reassembly.

I'm trusting that before the summer of 2024, there was no starting issue, and therefore, this may have been the beginning of the same problem that you're now experiencing.
Just a possibility, because intermittent faults can be very confusing and difficult to isolate.

As Burla suggested, the WIN module could potentially cause these problems, and it is worth the time to verify proper functionality. WIN faults are notorious for creating intermittent grief.
You will find many threads discussing troubleshooting WIN module faults.

Also, search YouTube for troubleshooting, repair, and replacement of WIN modules.

March 2026
Replaced it started the truck at least 20 times. Had an exhaust leak. My wife didn’t tighten her side well enough when putting it back together. We fixed it and couldn’t make it start after that.

From the information above, I would start my search here. Review anything and everything within reach of this work area, and any other activities performed during this rework session.
It sounds like something changed from the start to the finish of this rework.

Also, were all the common grounds completely refurbished and cleaned to bare metal during the engine replacement activity?

Our rolling microcomputers are extremely sensitive to anything but near-perfect B+ and ground connections.

.

 

[TJP440]

From the information above, I would start my search here. Review anything and everything within reach of this work area, and any other activities performed during this rework session.
It sounds like something changed from the start to the finish of this rework.

Also, were all the common grounds completely refurbished and cleaned to bare metal during the engine replacement activity?

Our rolling microcomputers are extremely sensitive to anything but near-perfect B+ and ground connections.

.

in my experience over the years what Ram Driver suggested has been true 90% of time. A bit of humor to help with your grief

 

[aszumilo]

I saw something similar to this. Turns out it was the star connector in the passenger side kick panel. A lot of the canbus connections run thru it. On one of the components (don't remember if it was a resistor or capacitor) the resistance kept increasing as they kept the ohmmeter connected to it. Once it cooled down to its normal reading everything worked. They replaced the star connector and all was well. Just something else to check.

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[jws123]

I would put money on the WIN module they fail often people tend to use keys that are to heavy so they wear out.

 

[Ken226]

I would put money on the WIN module they fail often people tend to use keys that are to heavy so they wear out.

Yea, the key fob is pretty long. Add in a bunch of keys on a ring attached to the very end of that lever + a few hundred potholes per year, and its alot to ask of that cheap plastic socket.

Back in 2019 I cut the blades of an Amazon prox key and programmed it to my truck. It's the only key I used in the win module ever since. It's about half as long.

I posted about it back then:

Normal key

Does anyone know if it is possible to get a "normal" key for the ignition in lieu of this stubby plastic one. I had a 2013 1500 which had normal keys but my 2018 2500 has the stubby one. Just hate the thing.

www.ramforum.com

One of these, but I cut off the metal blade and sanded the end smooth:

Amazon.com: KeylessOption Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Blade Blank Insert for Smart Prox Key (Pack of 2) : Automotive

Buy KeylessOption Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Blade Blank Insert for Smart Prox Key (Pack of 2): Keyless Entry Systems - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Gary Fields]

You don't need a dealer or a mechanic, you need an exorcist.

 

[jws123]

You don't need a dealer or a mechanic, you need an exorcist.

Im thinking the parts cannon was fired to many times and now the trucks all kinds of fked up lol whoever is working on this vehicle has no idea what they are doing.

 

[BigTerry66]

I have a 2013 1500 5.7 hemi. I just replaced its bad engine at 180,000 miles. It has received a new TIPM, BCM, and RF module. This is the 4th time the truck has decided to die and not start up again. The RF module came with new keys. The dealership is my last resort at $200+ an hour. The key turns the backlight of the dash on. But the door doesn’t ding while key is in and open. It doesn’t click to start. Nothing on the dash comes on.

Rf and key may not been program to the truck correctly.. just a guess...