Are dealer oil changes required for warranty?

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Sherman Bird

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I had it out with Ford over a 2011 F150 Ecoboost. That truck was plagued with problems. They rebuilt the transmission 3 times in under a year, had the dreaded intercooler condensation issue, electrical gremlins. Eventually Ford sent me a letter stating that the issues I was having were due to the way I was driving it. I demanded a buy back or a lemon replacement. They refused. We went to mediation. Ford's smug attorneys stated there was nothing wrong with the truck, I was making it up. Until we went for a test drive. Just leaving the parking lot I barely got in to the throttle when the truck started shaking violently, dash lit up like a christmas tree and went in to limp mode. Mediator had enough of that. I got a new truck the following week, which I promptly traded for a Ram. :)

They will let you take them to court. Because they already are paying for the lawyers to deal with it. It's no money out of their pocket since it was money already spent and accounted for. And 99.9% of people are not going to lawyer up against them.

So, yeah, they'll legally bully you until you either go away or take them to court. Either way, it costs them nothing additional, unless they lose.
Perhaps the insider who told me that left out details. I'll never know. From a pragmatist standpoint, Ford lost a customer in you forever, I'd assume. So, regardless of "Staff Attorneys" or otherwise, the ill will cost them a damned fortune, wouldn't you agree?

Maybe the General was smarter than those hubristic Ford shave-tails. I was, at the time, asking why GM gave away so many questionable repairs, or, in that particular instance, why they did the repair when it was painfully obvious that the vehicle was abused mercilessly.

I do find it rather enigmatic that people will spend a fortune on a good or service and encounter stark indifference from whomever they have to deal with looking for satisfactory resolve.... then when the company balks and makes things difficult, said people will throw their hands up and give up.
 

Jim113

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Called the mechanic we've been using for decades, service guy said for full synthetic they use something sounded like "dexos"(?) from Mobil 1, he said pretty sure it had the API cert but would have to check when I came in. Was kind of noisy in the background couldn't hear him well, it's a little confusing when I google dexos it seems like some kind of GM standard or is it an additive?
I'm familiar with DEXOS ... It is a blend that General Motors recommends in their 2011 and up vehicles ... This article can explain it ...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-...ils,specifics for a 2011 and later gas engine.
 
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randyl

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OP here. Here's what I ended up doing for the first 5K mi change:

Reminder this is a 2023 5.7 hemi, manual (and oil cap) says 0-W20 full synthetic, AGI certified and meets MS-6395, nothing more (though recommends Mopar).

1. Went with Penzoil Ultra. The jugs clearly state they're AGI certified, and meet MS-6395. Other than being full synthetic 0-W20, that's all the manual says is required, though it does "recommend" Mopar, though explicitly states others meeting MS-6395 are required.

2. Took a picture of my receipt for the oil, and the mechanic receipt who changed it (they also keep electronic records).

3. To answer some of the other posts, I got the vehicle out of state so going back to that dealer not an option for oil changes. Dealerships around here don't have good reputations, the mechanic shop we use are good people. I agree with comments about Magnusson, I think I'm in good shape but a battle would still be annoying.

4. As I was shopping around for oil, there were Mobil options that meet the manual requirements per the jug. I just felt warm and fuzzy paying a little more for Penzoil Ultra. Mechanic was fine using my oil, so I didn't want to take up their time making them hunt down a spec sheet on the Mobil 1 they use in bulk.

I don't disagree with anyone who says path of least resistance is dealership oil changes to avoid any future engine warranty disputes, but this is the path I chose.
 
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randyl

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OP again. Here's a little twist, just looked at Penzoil Ultra site, apparently they offer a 15 Year warranty:
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prod...VkYXBwLnN0YXRpYy9pbmRleC5odG1sP2xhbmc9ZW4tVVM

"click on warranty tab"

the warranty is free, and here are the 15 parts it covers:

1. Pistons & Piston Rings2. Oil Pump & Timing Chains3. Crankshaft and Bearings4. Rocker Arms and Pivots5. Rods6. Rod Bearings7. Push Rods8. Cam Shaft and Bearings9. Valve Stems and Guides10. Wrist Pins and Bushings11. Turbo Bearings12. Valve Lifter13. Cylinder Lining or Bore14. Distributor Drive Gear15. Timing Gears or Sprockets

I defer to those more knowledgeable, but is not #12 valve lifter the culprit of the hemi tick?

So it would seem that if one goes this route, then in the end Penzoil and Mopar can fight over whether it was a lubrication or manufacturing defect, but it would seem one of them would have to cover the tick caused by lifter failure?

Well in any case it's free, so I'm gonna sign up...
 

Units

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I save receipts and document the maintenance on the Ram Owners site.
What is the “RAM Owners” site you’re referring to?
 
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randyl

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I'm familiar with DEXOS ... It is a blend that General Motors recommends in their 2011 and up vehicles ... This article can explain it ...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/dexos-1-vs-dexos-2-what-is-gm-dexos-oil/120130#:~:text=While GM recommends only using dexos rated oils,specifics for a 2011 and later gas engine.
Interesting.

But just stating for the record, was not intending to discuss what is "best" oil, interval etc. I'm sure there are thousands of posts duke-ing that out. My focus is just what to use to avoid a warranty rejection "you didn't use the *approved* oil". I change religiously at 5K/6mos and don't plan to tow much, so with that schedule I doubt the oil choice will make much wear/performance difference because I won't be subjecting it to heavy duty cycle or longer change intervals.

I do think it's interesting that 2023 requires 0-W20 and sounds like prior manuals specified different weights/viscosities for the same engine. Curious what that's all about.
 

Sherman Bird

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OldRider

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My dealer charges $62 for an oil change on my 22 model V6 and they always have a $15 off coupon online, so it ends up costing me $47. That’s as cheap as I can get it done anywhere else and if I have a problem down the road, they can’t give me any grief over oil changes. Also sets up a good relationship with the service manager which can be very valuable down the road if a problem arises.
 

Marshall

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Interesting.

But just stating for the record, was not intending to discuss what is "best" oil, interval etc. I'm sure there are thousands of posts duke-ing that out. My focus is just what to use to avoid a warranty rejection "you didn't use the *approved* oil". I change religiously at 5K/6mos and don't plan to tow much, so with that schedule I doubt the oil choice will make much wear/performance difference because I won't be subjecting it to heavy duty cycle or longer change intervals.

I do think it's interesting that 2023 requires 0-W20 and sounds like prior manuals specified different weights/viscosities for the same engine. Curious what that's all about.
I am a 4th gen fellow, 2010, 2014, 5.7 and both of them said 5/20, I have run full syth on most of mine, and find it strange they would now say 0/20. To me that is what I would call a cold winter oil.
 

bobby a

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Great topic and right on time for my question. Not trying to hijack this thread but my question quite close.
My 07.5 6.7 CTD Mega Cab 4/4. I have been running Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-40 for Turbo Diesel Truck for at least 12 years or more. My truck runs better with it. I was talking to a transport driver the other day and he has a newer Dodge Ram with the same engine. He told me to never you anything other than Rotala, he was quite adamant about it. He claims that the seals are not designed for synthetic oil. My mechanic says the guy is nuts !! putting it lightly. I would like your opinion. My truck has 162K and just started a slight oil leak in the pan. Opinions please.
I thank you in advance.
 
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