Are these the front/back speaker wires???

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JinxCanada

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i pried up the kick plate beside the driver on the floor. is this bundle of wires the speaker wires? or something else? and if they are which colour is the front speaker wires to tie into for my amplifier for my sub?

any help would be great!20180201_142236_resized.jpg 20180201_142242_resized.jpg
 
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JinxCanada

JinxCanada

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and...are the front left door speaker wires Grey/Yellow & Grey/Violet? I have the wiring diagram but not 100% sure I've got this correct.

lastly, is there any difference tapping into the front speaker wires vs the back door speaker wires?
 

adrianp89

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Your going to fry your BCM or shoot out an air bag if your not careful. Just go directly to behind the radio.
 
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JinxCanada

JinxCanada

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Your going to fry your BCM or shoot out an air bag if your not careful. Just go directly to behind the radio.

oh. well I was told that was the best place to tap into the speaker wires...and if I didn't have to take out the head unit which is a pain in the ass id' rather not. just looking for help/options.
 

stimpy433

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Pretty sure you should tap into the rear speakers... I don't think you will get a full range input tapping into the fronts. At least that's what I've read in other threads.
 
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JinxCanada

JinxCanada

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Pretty sure you should tap into the rear speakers... I don't think you will get a full range input tapping into the fronts. At least that's what I've read in other threads.

oh ok. I thought the opposite was true. this is why I'm here asking before I start cutting into stuff. I wanna make this as easy as humanly possible ya know?
 

adurm

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Why not just take the speaker out and tap there?
 

DavidN

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Actually removing the HU is really not that complicated.
Google for YouTube videos or how-to’s and see for yourself.
 
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JinxCanada

JinxCanada

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Actually removing the HU is really not that complicated.
Google for YouTube videos or how-to’s and see for yourself.

oh I know how...I've done it before and yes it's a bit of a pain but I can do it. I was just trying to tap into the speaker high levels closer to the amp so I'd have less of a run to the connections
 

djarrett

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oh I know how...I've done it before and yes it's a bit of a pain but I can do it. I was just trying to tap into the speaker high levels closer to the amp so I'd have less of a run to the connections
6 speaker 8.4 non alpine here,. I pulled the b panels and tapped there for line input on my sub addition. It seemed a lot easier to run the wires a shorter distance, and there was plenty of working room to do a nice neat tie in.

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adrianp89

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The rears in Chrsylers are known to be attenuated at higher volumes, that is why it is not suggested to go there. It literally takes 5 minutes to get the radio out, it is more difficult to find the speaker wires in the main harness then to run it to the radio. You know exactly what your getting and have no concerns. Plus stripping twisted pair wires in a main harness can be a PITA for pros, doing it with no experience is going to be worse.
 

djarrett

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I have never heard that about rears in these trucks with the non alpine unit, learn something everyday.

When I was researching for my install I was told it didn't matter because all door speakers received the full signal.

My sub sounds great, it's an alpine 10 4 ohm dvc in a sealed box, 500 watts from an alpine m500 amp at 2 ohms. What really woke my system up was unhooking the dash 3.5, a zapco st4b to ID 65 cs components in the front doors, tweeters in the sail panels. I lowered the gain on the rear speakers because they seemed to be brighter than the comp set.

After what you just said makes sense, I thought maybe the alpine 6x9 I installed in the rear doors was a little lower ohm load than the components causing them to draw a little more power from the amp, making them a touch louder.

Before I amped the doors it did sound fine with the head unit driving the doors, but you could really drowned out the doors with the sub. Now the sub is turned up louder and really blends in and disappears in the mix. I also deadened the rear wall and doors, brings up the midbass nicely.

If I had known the rears were actually attenuated louder I wouldn't have tapped them, I guess I got lucky because it's sounds really good now.

Thanks

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JinxCanada

JinxCanada

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6 speaker 8.4 non alpine here,. I pulled the b panels and tapped there for line input on my sub addition. It seemed a lot easier to run the wires a shorter distance, and there was plenty of working room to do a nice neat tie in.

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b panels? not sure which those are? are you referring to the panel beside the drivers seat just before the rear doors?
 
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JinxCanada

JinxCanada

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Yes

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are the speaker wires in the "B" panels the same colour coding as from the harness? I have a schematic and it shows the front left speakers to be Grey/yellow & Grey/Violet. Just wanna make sure I tap into the correct wires. TIA
 

djarrett

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are the speaker wires in the "B" panels the same colour coding as from the harness? I have a schematic and it shows the front left speakers to be Grey/yellow & Grey/Violet. Just wanna make sure I tap into the correct wires. TIA
The speaker wires in the b panel are for the rear doors. Based on what Adrian said you wouldn't want to tap there. The front speaker wiring is NOT in the b panel at all, only the rear door speaker wire is in there.

With that said the speaker wires were twisted together. I snipped them and untwisted about 4-6 inches for slack. I soldered back together with my line input wires in the solder joint and then heat shrink over it all. It has been about 7 months since I installed, but the rear speaker colors were grey/green stripe on the right side and dark green/grey stripe on the left side. I turned up my radio and used a voltmeter to determine + and - correctly. I cannot remember which was which at this point.

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