Battery-drain problem

[Macadoo]

Hi folks,
I've had my 2014 1500 for about a year and have had no problems. This is my 3rd Ram, the first was a '92, the 2nd a 98, and now my 2014. I love these trucks!

However, last week it wouldn't start and had to jump it. The battery would take a 100%charge, no problem (and tested fine at Advance Auto), but it would discharge to 30% overnight. I replaced the battery (it was time) but yesterday, when I ran into a store, truck off, key out of the ignition, my wife could here a motor running inside the dash. A friend said that it might be the air blend door so I did some internet research and found a lot of broken air door problems but not this specific problem.

Yesterday, while driving around, I turned the knob back and forth from cold to hot with the fan on high and this morning the truck started quickly and strong.

I know I can't count on this fixing the problem, or know for sure that it wasn't just coincidence, so I'm looking for input from the group.

Many thanks

 

[Macadoo]

Ideas anyone? Dealer wants $500 just to get inside the dash.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Have you had any more problems with battery? That motor running in the dash is normal, mine does it all the time, I don't know if it's returning to a set position or what but when I shut mine off and sit there for awhile mine does it too, my wife's grand caravan also does it. If you're old battery was corroded or wet on top that could have been you're issue.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[Macadoo]

I saw a youtube vid showing broken plastic gears on the blend door actuator behind the glove box. It looked easy enough to check out but mine was fine. Interesting though, after I pulled the glove box and was taking the screws out for the actuator, it cycled. Again, no key in ignition, hadn't run since this morning.
I'm wondering if my old battery just wasn't up to running the electronics that cycle when the ignition is off.
Weird though. Why would these actuators need to cycle with the ignition off?

 

[Ramnewbie]

I know they have had different recalls for those blend doors on the grand caravan but I don't think it was causing a battery drain issue, they'd just get stuck and you couldn't adjust temperature. As far as what happens with all this electronic stuff when you'd think everything is shut down I aint gotta clue. Once my battery is 3 or 4 years old and I get the slightest hint that it's not 100% anymore I replace it, they do some strange **** when they start to go. I don't know if it's the battery itself or all the electronics on the vehicle that have a minimal draw when shut down.

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[Macadoo]

Thanks man. I just talked with a friend that builds race cars and he said actuators should never run with the ignition off. But honestly, he may not know. He and I are restoring 70s Olds. They still have glass fuses! Lol.
I'm tempted to just drive it and see what happens. I'm going to cancel the appointment since it's starting strong now, with the new battery.
BTW, I couldn't find a date on the battery but it had Chrysler on the label so I assumed it was the original. But it wasn't corroded at all. Cables and connectors look brand new, in fact.

 

[averageguy]

The actuator cycles with the ignition off a few minutes after you shut it off in my truck also. If everything is working right and the battery issue is resolved I would forget about it.

 

[S0CAL]

Do you have any mods? Remote start comes to mind. Sounds like you might have a parasitic power draw against the battery. There are a few vid's out there on this, and if you have a multimeter, you can isolate it. It might save you a trip to the dealer. Essentially, you are checking fuses at the TIPM.

 

[huntergreen]

Sounds to me like putting in a new battery will solve the issue. May have had a bad cell. If not, you will need to use a meter on the battery and when off and see if there is something still drawing power. I would pull one fuse at at time and see if the meter reacts till I found it.

 

[Macadoo]

The actuator does run sometimes soon after turning off the ignition but today it had been something like seven hours since the engine ran but the actuator still cycled.

It does have an aftermarket remote start on it. That was my first thought, until I heard the actuator running.

 

[S0CAL]

Yeah, those vids will show you how to baseline the parasitic draw, helping you isolate the culprit. You said you had your battery tested? How many CCAs left?

 

[Macadoo]

Yeah, those vids will show you how to baseline the parasitic draw, helping you isolate the culprit. You said you had your battery tested? How many CCAs left?

I just built a 455 for my Olds but I have no idea what a CCA is, lol. Just so I'm not chasing geese, what would a good search phrase be for youtube? I mean, how specific?

 

[Macadoo]

I found a couple. Eric the Car Guy. He usually steers me right.

 

[S0CAL]

I just built a 455 for my Olds but I have no idea what a CCA is, lol. Just so I'm not chasing geese, what would a good search phrase be for youtube? I mean, how specific?

cold crank amps, sorry sir.

 

[88ROOK]

Thanks man. I just talked with a friend that builds race cars and he said actuators should never run with the ignition off. But honestly, he may not know. He and I are restoring 70s Olds. They still have glass fuses! Lol.
I'm tempted to just drive it and see what happens. I'm going to cancel the appointment since it's starting strong now, with the new battery.
BTW, I couldn't find a date on the battery but it had Chrysler on the label so I assumed it was the original. But it wasn't corroded at all. Cables and connectors look brand new, in fact.

if it had the chrysler label on it its still the OG battery, you cant buy those. they come from a vendor then get put in at the factory

 

[Macadoo]

Problem solved. Thanks all.
I did a draw-down test. Immediately after hooking the multimeter between the negative cable and the negative post, the amperage jumps up to 2.5 amps. 30 seconds later, it's down to 1.6 amps, another 30 seconds, it's down to 0.34 amps and holds steady. I kept it there for about 5 minutes.
Looks like it was just an old battery. Sorry for the false alarm, I'm just not used to this new of a vehicle. I upgraded from my '98 Ram to this 2014. A lot changed in 16 years! Lol.

But since I have your folks ears; is there anything I should watch out for? Anything I can head off before it happens?

 

[S0CAL]

Good deal. You already purchase a battery?

 

[FXCLM5]

4 years is good, it may have been installed in 2013 so its possible 5 years - about normal, ive seen oem batteries go as far as 7 years and as short as 3 years, very dependent on how the alternator charges the battery

 

[Macadoo]

I bought the new battery from Advance; mostly out of convenience. Pricey sucker.
Since I purchased the truck from a Dodge dealer, I guess i thought it possible it was a new battery but honestly, I didn't ask.

 

[Rebelrouser]

I'm having the same issues with my '17 Sport. If I leave it parked for two days in the driveway it won't start on the third day. If I change the battery are there any codes that are going to pop up? I have a good battery here that I've been putting off swapping 'till now.