Brake Calipers

[426power]

OK guys need some help here. I was driving my 2018 Ram 2500 on Thursday and noticed I had to steer left to keep the truck tracking straight. I also felt a drag. So I stop get out and check and yep the passenger rear caliper is stuck on. By the time I limped her home it smoked my Power Stop brake pad and Rotor. I am just checking to see if the calipers are an issue on these trucks, as this is my first Ram, Oh ya and last. I already ordered a new Power Stop kit to replace the rear ones and I also ordered all new calipers, as I don't want to destroy another rotor so I figured I will replace them all. The truck just turned 80,000 miles. Thanks in advance.

 

[2003F350]

Generally speaking if you have a caliper lock up it's because the slide pins don't have enough lube on them. I have almost 90k on my truck with no issues with the calipers. Since it sounds like you at some point redid the brakes yourself you likely didn't add enough lube.

What I've found with lubing the sliders on brake calipers is this: Put what you THINK is enough caliper lube on there, then double it. Then add some more. Now you're probably close to what they actually need, so add just a bit more. Now put everything back together.

I've never had one freeze up since I've been doing that.

 

[crash68]

While your replacing the calipers, replace the hoses also. Brake hoses can look fine on the outside but the collapse internally that can cause the brake pads to stay pushed against the rotor.

 

[426power]

Generally speaking if you have a caliper lock up it's because the slide pins don't have enough lube on them. I have almost 90k on my truck with no issues with the calipers. Since it sounds like you at some point redid the brakes yourself you likely didn't add enough lube.

What I've found with lubing the sliders on brake calipers is this: Put what you THINK is enough caliper lube on there, then double it. Then add some more. Now you're probably close to what they actually need, so add just a bit more. Now put everything back together.

I've never had one freeze up since I've been doing that.

I just did these brakes last year. I cleaned and lubed all the slide pins when I did the job.

 

[2003F350]

I just did these brakes last year. I cleaned and lubed all the slide pins when I did the job.

Did you put a light layer of lube on the pins, or did you coat them heavily? As I said, I've found that a light layer of lube isn't even CLOSE to enough, you have to REALLY coat them if you don't want things freezing up.

It is possible that the piston isn't backing off, which as Crash notes could be indicative of a bad hose to the caliper or a problem inside the caliper itself.

 

[426power]

Did you put a light layer of lube on the pins, or did you coat them heavily? As I said, I've found that a light layer of lube isn't even CLOSE to enough, you have to REALLY coat them if you don't want things freezing up.

It is possible that the piston isn't backing off, which as Crash notes could be indicative of a bad hose to the caliper or a problem inside the caliper itself.

Thanks for the info. I will make sure I coat them heavily when I repair them tonight.

 

[Scottly]

I just did these brakes last year. I cleaned and lubed all the slide pins when I did the job.

The slide pins are not the issue. Slide pins will cause uneven wear on the pads...They don't cause brake lock-up. Lock-up is caused by one of two things...Brake fluid pressure isn't coming out of the caliper when the pedal is released (hose, proportioning valve, etc) or the piston square cut seal will not retract the piston(the most likely culprit here). Nothing personal, but I have said it a million times on this forum and the industry preaches it but no one seems to listen...You can't slap pads on at 50K(or whatever) mileage and think you have new brakes, when those pads are being actuated by worn-out calipers. When you push those caliper pistons back in, behind them sits a crud/dirt ring that you push the piston/seal over top of...damaging both and usually starting them down the path to where you are at now.

 

[426power]

The slide pins are not the issue. Slide pins will cause uneven wear on the pads...They don't cause brake lock-up. Lock-up is caused by one of two things...Brake fluid pressure isn't coming out of the caliper when the pedal is released (hose, proportioning valve, etc) or the piston square cut seal will not retract the piston(the most likely culprit here). Nothing personal, but I have said it a million times on this forum and the industry preaches it but no one seems to listen...You can't slap pads on at 50K(or whatever) mileage and think you have new brakes, when those pads are being actuated by worn-out calipers. When you push those caliper pistons back in, behind them sits a crud/dirt ring that you push the piston/seal over top of...damaging both and usually starting them down the path to where you are at now.

NO worries my truck now has four new calipers, new rotors and new pads. Problem solved. Thanks for the help

 

[2003F350]

The slide pins are not the issue. Slide pins will cause uneven wear on the pads...They don't cause brake lock-up. Lock-up is caused by one of two things...Brake fluid pressure isn't coming out of the caliper when the pedal is released (hose, proportioning valve, etc) or the piston square cut seal will not retract the piston(the most likely culprit here). Nothing personal, but I have said it a million times on this forum and the industry preaches it but no one seems to listen...You can't slap pads on at 50K(or whatever) mileage and think you have new brakes, when those pads are being actuated by worn-out calipers. When you push those caliper pistons back in, behind them sits a crud/dirt ring that you push the piston/seal over top of...damaging both and usually starting them down the path to where you are at now.

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree that slide pins won't cause this issue. We also have to agree on what we call 'caliper lock-up.'

Because you're right, if the piston isn't retracting then yes, the caliper is 'locked up.'

However...I find that this RARELY happens. Usually the pins haven't been lubed properly, and they either 'partially freeze' or 'fully-freeze' in position. The piston retracts, so the pad against the piston doesn't wear, but the outer pad remains jammed against the rotor and wears. OR if the pins the outer pad never wears and the inner pad is the only one applying force to the rotor, giving bad wear.

All of these scenarios fall under what the average person (who I always presume I'm dealing with on an internet forum) would call 'frozen' or 'locked up' brakes. Generally the problem is with the pins, NOT the caliper.

 

[Scottly]

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree

You have restored my hope in humanity...Just not this forum

 

[Burla]

Could have been contamination in the piston as well, brake fluid is likely the number one maintenance item that is missed. If the brakes were never bled at 80k, could have easily caused this. I had a caliper lock up on our other vehicle for seemingly no reason at 40k miles.

 

[Ron Boggio]

The slide pins are not the issue. Slide pins will cause uneven wear on the pads...They don't cause brake lock-up. Lock-up is caused by one of two things...Brake fluid pressure isn't coming out of the caliper when the pedal is released (hose, proportioning valve, etc) or the piston square cut seal will not retract the piston(the most likely culprit here). Nothing personal, but I have said it a million times on this forum and the industry preaches it but no one seems to listen...You can't slap pads on at 50K(or whatever) mileage and think you have new brakes, when those pads are being actuated by worn-out calipers. When you push those caliper pistons back in, behind them sits a crud/dirt ring that you push the piston/seal over top of...damaging both and usually starting them down the path to where you are at now.

Your not alone...... When doing brakes the hardware is just as if not more important. What is interesting, in the past you could buy a caliper rebuild kit i.e. the square cut seal and the piston seal aka dust boot and the pin bushing and seals. The cost of a rebuilt caliper is now so economical most part houses wont even offer the rebuild kits. Further pushing the knowledge/understanding of brake system operation out of the general customers view. Now adays you basically have the "bolt on brake job". This makes it even easier for the DIY person to do a quality brake job. However the advertising/marketing continues to shoot good information in the foot by advertising a "brake job" as the pad and or shoes. Attempting to explain hose collapse or internal caliper crud or even brake fluid deprecation is hard because its marketed as "pads". There is an earlier post talking about lubrication of the pins. While the lube is important it not for the reason most people think, its about limiting water intrusion, that's why you use more then you would think internal to the pin bushing and why the outer pin seal is so important. Ok I am ranting....... I will stop now.