Brake controller - OEM vs. Aftermarket (82215040AC)

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Intense-Dakota

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I currently have a Tekonsha P3 that I am replacing with the built-in brake controller. I am 6'7" and the Tekonsha just gets in the way of my leg and I prefer the clean look of the built in one. I am wondering if there is any functional difference between the OEM (Continental) module and the aftermarket modules such as those found on Amazon or eBay? I am mainly concerned with the Evic/Radio integration. I know I will need to get it activated, and will likely use AlfaOBD to do that. I typically go for OEM most of the time, but the OEM one is $2-300 versus the $60-100 for the aftermarket and since I only use it a few times a year to tow a 1500 lb popup camper, I can't justify the 2-4x price increase.
 

chopperman1

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Intense-Dakota

Intense-Dakota

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FYI, Steve White Motors on eBay sells OEM for a very reasonable price...
I have purchased a few things from them in the past and they were always great, but $180 is still a far way from $70 if there is no functional difference.
 

crash68

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The biggest question is how well an aftermarket integrates with the truck electronics. The OEM one use information from the ABS and vehicle stability modules along with braking force and vehicle speed to determine trailer braking force.
I want to say some people have had issues with aftermarket OEM style brake controllers integrating with the truck. Although there is three different modules used in the +13 trucks
The Mopar part numbers for the ITBM kit by model years:
2013/14 = 82213474AB
2015 = 82214492AB
2016/17/18 = 82215040AC
 
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Intense-Dakota

Intense-Dakota

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Exactly. That is the big question. Will the aftermarket integrate the same way as the OEM?
 

chri5k

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I had a P3 that I loved in my 2003 F-250. I unplugged the OEM one in my 2016 2500 to use the P3.

Never could get it to work smoothly on the 2500. Either too much or too little braking and not well coordinated with the truck brakes. Most stops had some sort of banging with the trailer brakes applied too early or too late.

Went back to the OEM and have very coordinated progressive braking. No noise or trailer wheel lock ups.
 

Gordo2212

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I personally like using OEM when possible, just think it looks cleaner and is built into the dash/bezel without having to install brackets or run other wires. There probably isn't too much difference between third party and OEM, but as others have said I guess there may be more integration with the truck but I can't speak to that. I had the OEM controller installed when I first got my 2018 3500 so I can pull my camper. I don't have any complaints at all with the OEM system.
 

sandawilliams

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I currently have a Tekonsha P3 that I am replacing with the built-in brake controller. I am 6'7" and the Tekonsha just gets in the way of my leg and I prefer the clean look of the built in one. I am wondering if there is any functional difference between the OEM (Continental) module and the aftermarket modules such as those found on Amazon or eBay? I am mainly concerned with the Evic/Radio integration. I know I will need to get it activated, and will likely use AlfaOBD to do that. I typically go for OEM most of the time, but the OEM one is $2-300 versus the $60-100 for the aftermarket and since I only use it a few times a year to tow a 1500 lb popup camper, I can't justify the 2-4x price increase.
I am surprised that a 1500 lb. trailer has brakes. Most states require trailer brakes if the weight over 3000 lbs gross. If it were me I wouldn't worry about trailer brakes.
 
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Intense-Dakota

Intense-Dakota

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The trailer is a camper and is 1500 lbs empty. That is not the only trailer I tow, but it is what I tow 90% of the time. I am going to be upgrading to a larger camper in the near future also.
 

Heatheroo

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I had a Tekonsha Primus IQ in my 2010 Colorado and moved it to my 2019 RAM when I got rid of the Colorado. It works fine stopping a 3100lb (dry weight) travel trailer. I mounted it low, to the right of the steering wheel using an existing screw hole, thus avoiding having to drill. For my size/weight, it hasn't been a knee knocker, which it occasionally was in the Colorado. I have no experience with the OEM controller to compare it against.
 
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Intense-Dakota

Intense-Dakota

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I purchased a OEM style (after market) controller along with alfaobd and $13 Bluetooth adapter from Amazon. It installed and tested no problem. I am still waiting to take the trailer on the first trip though to see how well the new controller works.
 
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Intense-Dakota

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WEILEITE Integrated Trailer Brake... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096VK119W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So far so good. No issues activating it in the evic or the radio. It recognized the trailer is connected, but haven't towed it anywhere yet. The finish is just barely different for the buttons but most will likely never notice it. The buttons are responsive and feel solid.
 

Rambolt

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Hi guys so I got a question I have a Curt aftermarket trailer brake installed in my 2014 ram 1500 sport when I bought it and I hate the placement my knee keeps hitting it. Would like to go with the OEM but seems the 2014 trailer controller is discontinued would a 2016+ trailer brake controller work or should I source used 2014 on ebay or salvage yard? I got the plugs for the controller and I'll use AlfaOBD to setup just not sure which controller to get.
 

JustDrifting

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I just joined up and need some help with the same type of issue. I purchased a OEM style brake controller and module from Amazon and took it in to the dealer to have the code added to the vehicle. Both the radio and cluster display the tow mode and trailer select but on the cluster it says the following,

Trailer Brake not connected and then shows a dist: 182871.5

when i try to select a trailer on the radio it never saves when I have the module and controller plugged into the harness.

Here is the kicker I cant seem to figure out, why does the distance show that many miles when my truck has only 48K on it and I displays that message up top even when there is no module connected to the harness.

Maybe someone can add some light to this before I take back to the dealer and get bent over for diag fees.

Thanks
 
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Intense-Dakota

Intense-Dakota

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I'm not sure, but the distance may be stored in the module for each trailer. There may be a way to reset that but you would have to research that a bit. My guess though is the controller is a used/refurbished unit. The big question is what happens when a trailer is connected? Does it recognize the trailer? If not does the trailer have a electric or electric over hydraulic brakes?
 

JustDrifting

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I'm not sure, but the distance may be stored in the module for each trailer. There may be a way to reset that but you would have to research that a bit. My guess though is the controller is a used/refurbished unit. The big question is what happens when a trailer is connected? Does it recognize the trailer? If not does the trailer have a electric or electric over hydraulic brakes?

I have used this trailer connected to my work truck (2021 F-150) and bought it this year, I have not pulled more than 10K miles on it. The trailer is a enclosed 14ft dual axle with electric brakes.

my Ram does not recognize the trailer at all, I have lights but not brakes of course. I ended up ordering 2 others from amazon and still have the same distance counter no matter what module I have plugged in. I may consider getting that alfaobd that everyone is talking about on the forum.

Thank you for your help so far, I may have to return where i had the code installed and have them remove and add back in with no module hooked up or get the alfa program and a cable for my laptop.
 

Chrispatey

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How did this work out for you. I am having exactly the same issue
 
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