Brake fluid flush cost

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jws123

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I work at a dealer we charge 160 for brake flushes. Personally I have Never willingly flushed brake fluid unless a line blew lol I have had vehciles go well over 200k never been done.
 

04fxdwgi

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I use the vacuum oil changer tank for changing my boat engine oil to pull the fluid from each caliper position (the one I have is run off compressed air), while the replenished fluid is supplied by the refill bottle.

These make it a 30 minute 1 man job for the truck or the tandem axle boat trailer.

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Jeepwalker

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$160 for a dealer to exchange the fluid is money well spent IMO ...if the fluid is getting dark & the OP isn't mechanically experienced, pressed for time, etc.
 

gnyland

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Simple job by yourself if you change your own oil, brake pads, etc... even simpler if you have a set of extra feet around... though if you're getting older and don't want the hassle most oil change shops (Jiffy Lube, etc...) do it reasonably priced usually under or around 100 depending on the vehicle. i.e. Ram 2500 only 100 for full flush. I haven't used them for this on my ram but did on my old Silverado years ago, never a problem. Also did it myself as well... in under an hour, including dismounting/remounting all 4 wheels...
 

DodgeDude99

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You can buy a Motive pressure bleeder off Amazon for about $75.

Suck out the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster, refill with fluid and then pressure bleed.

I swapped to Hellcat brakes on my ‘06 Charger and had the brakes bleed done in 20 minutes.
 
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ramtruckrob

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Thank you guys for the advice. I'm thinking I'll have the fluid replaced (either by me or a shop) next time I put new brakes on the truck. I am not having any issues but I'm willing to be the brake pedal has slowly gotten worse over the years and I just haven't noticed.
 

roadrnnr

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Brake flush is a loaded term used by repair shops or dealerships to charge the vehicle owner for topping off their brake fluid reservoir $200 to $400 and they’ll tell you they flush the lines clean with solvent and in only extreme cases is this necessary and you can do that your self with isopropyl alcohol but just bleeding the system a few times is all it takes.
(Not in all cases)
When you have your brakes replaced or serviced the service requires the brake fluid to be bleed and depending on the extent of the components removed and replaced that are attached to your vehicle brake lines ; air inevitably finds its way to replace escaping brake fluid , and more fluid needs to be fed into the reservoir to bleed the air out through the brake bleeder lines

This can be accomplished most of the time by repeatedly pumping and pressing the brake pedal to the floor by you or an assistant.
A pump or vacuum device helps to assist in this process but because of anti-lock brake technologies there are a couple extra steps to activate an electronic brake pump inside the anti- lock brake guild manifold and an advanced OBD2 connected controller can command the actuator to engage when certain conditions a met

Because you want to replace the fluid without a component replacement all you really need to do is bleed each individual wheel starting with the furthest from the reservoir and progressively moving to the wheel closest to it.
Only remove fluid out of the bleeder valve and not pushing fluid into it by some pump or device because you risk contaminating the system with sediments .
To replace all the fluid in the lines except for the anti-lock system you’ll want on hand about one and a half to two quarts you might not go through exactly that much but it’s better than running short in the middle of bleeding.

Don't let the reservoir run dry as not to let air into the master cylinder or you’ll need to bleed that separately and it can be messy.View attachment 540742
Make sure the bleeder hose is submerged in liquid to prevent air from being drawn back into to system before you can close the bleeder valve
Yep this is the system I use. Works great and you don't need a helper. Cost is 2 quarts of fluid and your done
 

Jeepwalker

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Worst case ....if a guy did introduce air (just be uber-careful and you won't)...is if get some "pedal" and others have indicated to take in a big gravel parking lot, or dirt/gravel area, (somewhere safe), lock the brakes up a couple times to activate the ABS. Then re-bleed.

Legal disclaimer: That's not advice on a course of action from me ...just something others have proclaimed on the interwebs...
 

Jeepwalker

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Note, IDK if this was mentioned yet ...but there are brake fluid strips which test for fluid moisture levels. And also a device like THIS. A repair shop should have them to test your tk. But given it's age. I'd do it anyway.

If another forum member already pointed it out...my apologies.
 

js12278

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Worst case ....if a guy did introduce air (just be uber-careful and you won't)...is if get some "pedal" and others have indicated to take in a big gravel parking lot, or dirt/gravel area, (somewhere safe), lock the brakes up a couple times to activate the ABS. Then re-bleed.

Legal disclaimer: That's not advice on a course of action from me ...just something others have proclaimed on the interwebs...
If you’ve got AlfaObd, you can activate the brake bleed process as well. I used to do the gravel road plan though.
 

goatmann

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i paid $60 to have the brake fluid flushed last weekend at a local tire store with mechanic on duty.

65000 miles on the clock, the old fluid looked like the diet coke that fella drank before using the bottle to catch the old fluid. i can feel a bit better brake pedal.

a few months back i did the brakes on my '05 FJR and the braking difference is much more noticeable than what i feel in the truck.
 

mikeru

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Just my .02, my 1996 1500 I bought new has over 200k, and I've never flushed the brake fluid. Stops on a 50 cent piece.
The point of flushing the brake fluid isn't to fix something. It's preventative. Just like when you change your oil, if done regularly you won't notice any difference after flushing. Brake fluid attracts moisture and can pull it directly from the surrounding air. The more moisture in the brake fluid the higher the chance of corrosion inside the system. And if your brakes get a workout by towing or hauling regularly, or if you regularly drive it like you stole it, the higher moisture content lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid, affecting brake performance. Which is a safety issue.
 

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