Cab lights intermittent

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JcsMI

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I ha e a 2010 2500. The can roof lights sometimes lght up only there. Most of the time. But sometimes its all fove that light up. They appear to be led but I have not opened them. Any tips? They also flicker a little at different times.
 
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tron67j

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Sockets that weren't designed for LED bulbs don't work so well when those type are used. Try checking to see if they are led and replace all if so. Kind of interesting done work, maybe the sockets are rusty(?).
 
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04fxdwgi

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Sockets that weren't designed for LED bulbs don't work so well when those type are used. Try checking to see if they are led and replace all if so. I am trying to remember my cab lights when I had headliner out, I think they are in a series which would make just three lighting up kind of interesting, maybe the sockets are rusty(?).
In series? 12 volt lighting is normally in parallel.
 

04fxdwgi

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I ha e a 2010 2500. The can roof lights sometimes lght up only there. Most of the time. But sometimes its all fove that light up. They appear to be led but I have not opened them. Any tips? They also flicker a little at different times.
When electrical items have intermittent problems, the 1st thing I go straight to is to see if it has a constant 12V and check for a sketchy ground.
 

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In 2010 they did not put LED's in from the factory. It is possible someone changed out the originals. Sockets could be corroded, or poor ground could also cause that problem. Pull the lens cover off the lights to look at them to see the socket bases to start with. If they look fine, pull the headliner down and check wires and grounds.
 
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JcsMI

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Any chance its a poor battery? My battery is from 2017. I got it to stay up but it is not latched and will likely fall open. I had tried using the lock previously. But I was scared it was gonna get stuck locked. And I have a tonneau. So I unlocked it. But its not locked now. So I'll have to wait to try more. I live in an apartment. Its not easy to work on cars here. But it won't pull out and off from the drivers side. I have liquid wrench on it. We'll see if that helps.
 

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Any chance its a poor battery? My battery is from 2017. I got it to stay up but it is not latched and will likely fall open. I had tried using the lock previously. But I was scared it was gonna get stuck locked. And I have a tonneau. So I unlocked it. But its not locked now. So I'll have to wait to try more. I live in an apartment. Its not easy to work on cars here. But it won't pull out and off from the drivers side. I have liquid wrench on it. We'll see if that helps.

Have you replied to the wrong thread?

I thought this was about cab lights failing to illuminate. What does this have to do with latching, locks, and tonneau covers?

A poorly performing battery on our trucks is rather apparent and often causes multiple DTCs with irregular behaviours from different components.

Your cab light sounds like typical wiring, connectors, or bad grounds. Nothing too crazy. :cool:

Or, have you not disclosed other failures on your truck?

If you have concerns about your battery's condition, connect a charger for a period of time and then load test it with a toaster-style battery load tester like this $18 device from Harbour Freight.


.
 
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04fxdwgi

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Any chance its a poor battery? My battery is from 2017. I got it to stay up but it is not latched and will likely fall open. I had tried using the lock previously. But I was scared it was gonna get stuck locked. And I have a tonneau. So I unlocked it. But its not locked now. So I'll have to wait to try more. I live in an apartment. Its not easy to work on cars here. But it won't pull out and off from the drivers side. I have liquid wrench on it. We'll see if that helps.
8 year old battery? Lemme see........ Test it and sure you will find it junk, if you test it the correct way.

Did you unbolt the retainer from the battery tray?
 
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JcsMI

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I have not tested it. I just got the truck a few weeks ago. I can take it to Autozone but the age alone says it needs to be replaced
 

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I have not tested it. I just got the truck a few weeks ago. I can take it to Autozone but the age alone says it needs to be replaced

Digital-type battery load testers, like those used at parts stores, are prone to false positives because they don't actually apply any significant load to the battery. I wouldn't make the effort for that test because the results are not accurate, one way or another.

See post #8.

I have had batteries survive for 8 years, but that was ages ago, in another forgotten universe. :cool:

.
 
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JcsMI

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Well I replaced the battery. Lights still flicker. The one on the end drivers side you can see half lit but it flickers to full lit. Second one is out. Sometimes third one is out. Once in awhile they are lit. IMG_3862.jpeg
 
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JcsMI

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Looks like these trucks do not loke LeDs is the problem.
 
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JcsMI

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I'd like to switch back to ones with bulbs but not sure how difficult it is.
 

Badger 13

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These almost look to be "aftermarket" ? By the looks of them you just can't change out the bulb. If that is the case you have to change out the entire light to get back to an incandescent bulb. There are complete OEM cab light kits that are pretty reasonable, or you can check out places like Geno's garage.

 

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I'd like to switch back to ones with bulbs but not sure how difficult it is.

Parts swapping without diagnostic testing is seldom productive unless you like spending money for nothing.

Have you disassembled one of the problem lights, inspected the contacts for misalignment, corrosion or damage?

Measured the 12VDC on the socket wrt ground and the potential across the positive and negative wires in the housing?

Measured the DC resistance of the ground wire in a failing light and compared that resistance to that of a working light?


Troubleshooting starts at the PC, but it must be backed by practical testing, or it is just theoretical potential. You have received the same advice from day one, but I see no feedback on any testing performed following that advice.

If we're to work together to solve your dilemma, we need your input and cooperation.

.
 
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JcsMI

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The parts on there are not OEM. OEM was incandescent. I read the with a speacialiEd OBD2 you can access the the compter and change it in there to led
 

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FYI LED lights should be CANBUS rated so it prevent Hyper Flash !
I have LASFIT inside my 2015 with no issue !
The blinking LEDs usually are starting to go !
 
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JcsMI

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Parts swapping without diagnostic testing is seldom productive unless you like spending money for nothing.

Have you disassembled one of the problem lights, inspected the contacts for misalignment, corrosion or damage?

Measured the 12VDC on the socket wrt ground and the potential across the positive and negative wires in the housing?

Measured the DC resistance of the ground wire in a failing light and compared that resistance to that of a working light?


Troubleshooting starts at the PC, but it must be backed by practical testing, or it is just theoretical potential. You have received the same advice from day one, but I see no feedback on any testing performed following that advice.

If we're to work together to solve your dilemma, we need your input and cooperation.

.
Hey. So I am not sure all of what you said. I have a voltmeter. But I do not know all of the terminology you have used and I am limited with my experience using a voltmeter. The sentence that begins "Measured the 12vdc." is not 100% clear to me. Sorry I am just not sure about all of what you have said.
 
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04fxdwgi

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If you have absolutely minimum to no knowledge on using a voltmeter, I suggest you should either do some studying about electrical theory of have a buddy do it and watch / learn from him. ""Measured the 12vdc." is not 100% clear to me" is a red flag.

Putzing around the electrical systems on these rolling computers without knowing what you are doing can have bad results. Rams are especially sensitive to this phenomenon for some reason.
 
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