Change your rear diff oil if you haven't yet and clean those lockers!

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Dan Topp

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I did everything front rear trans and transfer at 10 k as its break in as I did with the engine the day I picked it up 8875BD1B-E1DA-4CF1-8D3D-243710558762.jpeg13939E0F-B5F5-40E8-ABB8-F745B9DF5C2F.jpeg71B2417C-7B60-4702-895E-EF1C69B209F4.jpegimage.jpg
 
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Scybron

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I am a bit confused so is this the first time you changed it or actually the second time? If the second time and only 800 miles I am surprised there is anything on the magnet. good luck finding just the rubber gasket. My dealership said it was not available so you had to buy the entire plug...Seems they get chewed up everytime you pull the plug for some reason. When I changed mine early on I had nothing really on the plug at all.
I changed it at 800, and pulled the fill plug at 1700 because it was seeping a bit
 

Dan Topp

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My vette guy helped me dial in the trans temp so I didn’t have to depend on the vehicle info for the trans fill temperature otherwise I do have a lift designed for the truck,A32E1566-4C01-4DDC-8AE9-A042263B737C.jpegimage.jpgwhich makes it fun for me.
 

crazy jerry

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new plug with gasket is about $10 at any dealer. just get a new one. grey paste is normal and accumulates over time. couple flakes at 800mi i wouldnt even sweat it. mine probly had couple flakes im sure
 

HEMIMANN

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Looks like limited slip clutch mulch to me.
 

Grand Mesa

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In late June I changed the coolant, transmission fluid and filters, front and rear locking differentials, transfer case, and spark plugs for routine maintenance at 95,525 miles. Except for a recall of the transmission solenoid at 10,000 miles no other fluid was changed. First change of spark plugs. Everything looked good with a very low concentration of filings on magnets. Cleaning off of the rear locking magnet filings was a futile effort.20220612_104529.jpg
 
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skydyver83

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My truck just broke 20k and I was considering getting it done by the dealer until he quoted me about$400 on top of the $2000+ they want to replace my ABS module and controller (another thread). It will have to wait now or at least until I can find a reputable shop other than the dealer.
 

HEMIMANN

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Rear Diff isn't difficult to change oil - the front is (if you have 4WD that is - they steering link is parked right in front of it...getting at a couple of the cover screws is a bear).

Unless you're disabled, get a creeper and head under. If you want it easier the next time, get a Banks Ram Air cover. Then tow away, happy.
 

crazy jerry

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Rear Diff isn't difficult to change oil - the front is (if you have 4WD that is - they steering link is parked right in front of it...getting at a couple of the cover screws is a bear).

Unless you're disabled, get a creeper and head under. If you want it easier the next time, get a Banks Ram Air cover. Then tow away, happy.

huh you must be using vice grips. there wasnt nothing hard about the front when i did it
 

HEMIMANN

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huh you must be using vice grips. there wasnt nothing hard about the front when i did it

Dude, all 3 of us had difficulty accessing several bolts. We're all 3 mechanics.
 

wobly

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Dude, all 3 of us had difficulty accessing several bolts. We're all 3 mechanics.
For the Power Wagon, the only accommodation I had to make to get the two bolts under the steering linkage was to remove my 3/8" extension. Plenty of room on the PW. I can't say anything about the non-PW models.

I decided at 25K miles, I needed to do the differentials. The oil in the front and rear diffs was black and had a bit of a sheen to it. I called a local place that carries Amsoil and she said the only 75W-90 Easy-Packs they had were held for other people, but she had the regular 1qt bottles at a lower price. I snapped them up and went home. Removing the rear was pretty easy. Moving the brake line bracket out of the way was the most challenging part. The reusable gasket was nice. Then, I had to figure out how to get the oil from the bottle into the diff. My cheap little transfer pump didn't work. The funnels that I had were the wrong angle. I was about to find a manila folder and make a funnel when I saw an old bottle of gear oil with the "nozzle top". I emptied it out and used that by pouring the oil from the new bottle to the nozzle bottle and then squirting it in the diff. It took me longer to come up with the solution to get the oil in the diffs than it did for the job itself. A 13mm deepwell for the rear and an electric ratchet made the job pretty painless. 10mm for the front.
 

Overlander

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How many qts of transfer case fluid were required for this job?
 

HEMIMANN

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I changed the diff cover to Banks Cool Cover. Comes with a machined groove and o-ring. No more paper scraper deteriorating gaskets!
 

buckeyexx

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I changed the diff cover to Banks Cool Cover. Comes with a machined groove and o-ring. No more paper scraper deteriorating gaskets!
The differentials on these trucks do not have paper gaskets. They are reusable rubber gaskets. Just want to clarify this in case some one gets confused or reads this like they have paper gaskets. But they do not have the groove for an o-ring like the banks cover which is a great upgrade.
 

HEMIMANN

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Huh. I recall a thick cardboard gasket.

Well, that was 300 years ago, so I'm allowed to forget.
 
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